Officine Panerai

ImranLondon
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SIHH...reflections ........a vintage year or game show?

Now that the dust has settled, it’s perhaps a good time to reassess the Panerai version of it’s a knock out, or as our European brethren know it as, Jeux Sans Frontieres.

What was intriguing for me was the pre SIHH releases, which makes me wonder how much authority the Geneva and Basel shows still command. In a way you can see that the steady trickle of new pieces throughout the year is actually a better model, both for the manufacture and the client. What was clear was that the euphoria from 2011 with the 382,372 and stillborn 375/386 still casts its shadow over Panerai. Last year’s decision to make the 448/449 and 399 boutiques only, had clients waiting anxiously to see if this would be repeated, with many ready to ditch the Italian lady.

Some of the gloss from 2013 releases was no doubt taken off by the leaks of an impending ceramic sub another bronzo and rumours of an 8 day movement. We all also expected a 47mm rendition of a base version of the 399 with a 3000 mvt.

If we start with the pre-releases, we had a rebirth of composite with the 504/505. I actuality they were appeasers for all those who ordered the 275/386. The problem of course is that they are not able to fill the void as you cannot put a square peg in a round hole. Luminor 1950 into Radiomir just does not fit, not that there will not be plenty of takers for the new composite boys. Then there was the amagnetic sub, with a ceramic bezel. A good looking piece and already a loyal following it were along with the 47mm rattrapante 530, a vision of what was coming at SIHH. We should have guessed a host of 47mm confectioneries for Geneva.

So the most controversial watch of 2013, not the bronzo, but indeed the Radiomir 1940 47mm with date! The 514 is a watch of twists a supreme example of contradiction. Historic, yet so far from the original its DNA is based from. Far from the base we were expecting. But I wonder if we are the consumer for this piece? Maybe it is perfect for sports star? They would appreciate the date perhaps, but then surely they don’t want a wind up watch? I don’t know, it a watch which messes with the mind. Maybe last year’s California was enough of a success to just this radical piece. For me I predict a short shelf life, watch this space I guess.

Then the big story, the biggest piece of 2013 maybe....no, not the bronzo, the 512. Is this the perfect Panerai? DNA terrorists will be gunning for me with this statement...I can already see Nico, sparking up a cigarette and pouring a large glass of wine in disbelief J Truth is in the real world, a 47mm is more often than not a complete pain in the sleeve. I find whilst aesthetically the love has never been stronger for the 372, wrist time is getting shorter, much shorter. The 512 from the live pics wears larger than its 42mm,( I have it on good authority it wears like a 44mm),is thin enough, and will be a genuine practical proposition for everyday wear. The potential clientele for this piece is huge as those who have wrists of a more normal dimension, can finally join the party that so evaded them for too long. Rejoice you skinny wristed ............!!!!!

Then the watch that most will desire will undoubtedly command a premium and a huge waiting oversubscribed waiting (or in Panerai speak “wish”) list...no, not the bronzo, the ceramic submersible. It was everything we expected and most probably more..much more. For once faux patina never looked so good on a contemporary model. It hit the spot, and I hate to say it but it’s a home run. It is a quintessential display of a modern Panerai, traditional virtues melded with new technology.

Then THE  most important piece of the show (or rather not the show but for a later launch???), no...no...not the bronzo, but the 510, the 8 day Luminor Marina. A very keenly priced (I believe 10% premium over the 111), version of the classic. I already hear Nico screaming Pre V or pre A, but lets be realistic, they are now excess of 20k euro, the boast has long gone, and I for one will not pay that any more for those pieces. I had my my brief but hot and intense affair with the 203 pre V.  But when I saw it parked next to my Patek 5726, I knew that for similar money , this was not logical...to me any way. So back to the 510, an 8 days..perfect. well almost, take the 8 days off the dial please! Or if you have too...8 giorni ( i think that is right?), is sooo much more sexy (4 door v quattroporte, you get my drift). Personall, I now do harbour hopes of a modern, 8 giorni Luminor with a  pencil grey PVD, a modern Pam 4...yes I am drooling, at that prospect.

Oh, then  there was the.....no not bronze, the Radiomir  with prototype bezel...apparently not for SIHH, but for release later this year. Surprising, just like the price is surprising, because it was potentially THE biggest new for SIHH?

Thats about it , apart from the PRonzo! Well, we knew it was coming.....as for the PR, I actually don’t mind it...in fact I would say it adds a bi of character. The irony of this piece though, is that it evoked major reaction...mostly from us that own a 382. In reality, values of the 382 I don’t think will be affected, why? Well....those that already own a 382 are most likely the ones to get a 507. Just as the 449 did nothing to the 249, the 382 will still be a rock solid desirable piece, if anything I think the 507 has contributed. I really hope though, we see a bronzo 243, with the green dial (I know many don’t like it, but for me is an integral part of the allure), this will be more of universally desirable piece.

Best

Imran