reintitan
2622
The Error Proof or "California" dial was a Rolex design and they even patented it
Stern just made it for them to their specs. At this time, most brands used other companies to make their dials (and many other parts as well). Stern was one of the major dial makers.
And unlike today's trend toward every brand having "in-house" movements, ebauche movements were the norm for Swiss watches back then.
Rolex Geneva it could be argued did not make their own movements until 2005. Prior to that Rolex Geneva (Wilsdorf Trust) and Rolex Bienne (Aegler-Borer Trust) were separate companies with the latter supplying Rolex movements exclusively to the former until the former formally bought the latter in 2005.
Rolex USA was owned by Rolex Bienne and they controlled the Rolex trademark in the USA while the Rolex trademark was owned by Rolex Geneva in the rest of the world. That's why Rolex USA could prevent individuals from importing Rolex watches into the USA since the watches coming from outside the USA were technically violating their trademark if they were not imported by Rolex USA themselves. But once Rolex Geneva and Rolex Bienne became one company which included Rolex USA, they could no longer use that clause in the customs law to prevent individuals from shipping Rolex watches into and out of the country.
Rolex with "California" dial
Rolex Ref. 3646 with Error Proof radium dial. Case - Rolex Movement - Cortebert cal. 618 for Rolex Dial - Stern Fréres for Rolex Panerai did not manufacture any part of these Cali-dialed ref. 3646 (not even the dials) so it can be argued that they are Rol...
The lugs were welded by Rolex as this is an integral part of their wirelug cushion case watches going way back even before the ref.2533
The original strap and buckle are probably lost in time like most of them are. Since then they've been fitted with straps from multiple sources and even to this day many use modern replacements.
Interesting.
I was always under the assumption that Panerai welded the lugs, and with provided the Radium dials (maybe with exception to the Cali dials).
It's a beautiful watch with such sexy lines. Looks great with a business suit and with anything really
I'm thinking of selling most of my collection to get a historical 3646. Either Kampfschwimmer or California dial...we'll see...
You could buy a known watch from a known owner
or one vetted through a legit auction. The 6154 is a true grail, but for me it's too hot (radioactivity) to keep long term.
I wish you well if you go this route. Lots and lots of diligence required but a great prize at the end of it all!
I haven't really followed the vintage pieces in the last 5-8 years but I assume pricing is generally soft (versus the peak of 10-12 years ago). If so, perhaps good timing.
Thanks Jay. The prices have come down a little but still command a premium
for the most sought after pieces. The ones that have come down the most are the so-called brass painted dials whose manufacture many have attributed to Arturo Junghans during the waning days of WW2.
The watch is indeed a Rolex one...
the Rolex reference 3646, though, was exclusively produced (by Rolex) for Panerai. The "only" Panerai features were the Radium indices and the waterproofing process.
I'm not disagreeing with you...
But it's a little funny how Rolex gets all the credit for this watch. They didn't make the dial, nor the movement. Of course without a water tight case you don't have a dive watch, but still... it's almost equal parts Rolex, Cortebert Stern Freres and the...
The Error Proof or "California" dial was a Rolex design and they even patented it
Stern just made it for them to their specs. At this time, most brands used other companies to make their dials (and many other parts as well). Stern was one of the major dial makers. And unlike today's trend toward every brand having "in-house" movements,...
Developing in-house movements is not a trend....
but a necessity. After the Swatch Group, owner of the major Swiss movements making brands, applied to the Swiss government for..suspension of supply..to competitors, there's been a mad-scramble on the part of watchmakers to develop their own. The Swiss go...