Marcus Hanke[PuristSPro Moderator]
11296
Everyday Beauty - Marine Annual Chronograph experience review, pt. 3
Everyday Beauty:
Ulysse Nardin’s Marine Annual Chronograph
An experience
review
by Marcus Hanke
Part III
Movement:
Compared
with the rest of Ulysse Nardin’s production line, one has to state the
Marine Annual Chronograph to be one of the least original Ulysse
Nardins - technically at least. While most other UN watches make use of
own mechanical developments, at least in the shape of indigenous
modules, the Marine Annual uses a Dubois-Dépraz 4900 movement.
Dubois-Dépraz is a company renown for modifications of standard (ETA)
movements, and especially for modular complications. Its cal. 4900 is
in fact an ETA 2894 chronograph movement, with an annual calendar/big
date module developed by DD. An annual calendar is programmed to “know”
the sequence of months with 30 and 31 days. The only need to manually
adjust the mechanism is during the transition from February to March,
when it is necessary to set the date display from 28 (or 29) to 01.
Originally,
DD had also offered a four years-calendar, and even a perpetual
calendar version. Apparently, these never made it into a series
production. Already the annual calendar is a rarity, and despite its
practical aspects, is barely offered by watch manufacturers. Of these,
the Dubois-Dépraz is the most popular, which however means that since
its presentation some ten years ago, only a handful of watch
manufacturers used it. The first ones were Nivrel and Maurice Lacroix,
followed by the Marine Annual of Ulysse Nardin. Since the modular
concept permits to adapt the calendar mechanism to various base
movements, a few unique variants have been presented only very
recently: Aside Carl F. Bucherer, the most exclusive version is
integrated into a new watch by Richard Mille.
The
big advantage of the DD annual calendar module is its versatility. It
does not need additional adjustment pushers, which would reduce the
case’s water tightness. Instead, the adjustment works quickly by using
the standard date quick setting by means of the crown. Even if it is
necessary to turn forward a whole year, this does not need longer than
a few minutes. Another very convenient feature is the central big date
window at 12. Despite its separating bar, hiding the gap between the
two wheels, it is very attractive, due to the fact that both calendar
discs are on the same layer.
There
are a few drawbacks as well: The calendar does not show the day of the
week, and the month indication is so small and hidden between the 4 and
5, that it is mostly used only as a guide when adjusting the calendar
manually. And, a disadvantage in theory at least, the “pancake stack”
of modules (base movement, chronograph module, calendar module)
accumulates the parts count, and thus the potential sources of trouble.
However,
during my already long experience using the watch, I did not encounter
any problems that could be credited to a lack of mechanical robustness
of the stacked modules. In the contrary, I was surprised by the
smoothness of the chronograph operation shown by the movement. Other
2894s I had tried shared a very rough feeling when operating the
pushers. They need considerable force to make them switching the
chronograph mode, and the chronograph hands would start with a large
leap, covering several second markers. This bad behaviour is certainly
the result of ETA’s policy to sell the chronograph module not as parts
kits, but only fully assembled. Apparently, the finish of the module’s
components is rough, causing energy losses in the path from the pusher
to the chronograph’s coupling. Yet the technical design of the module
would support a much smoother operation: it has a - rather primitive -
column wheel and a vertical clutch, both features are regularly quoted
as indicators for “really fine” chronograph movements.
Ulysse
Nardin proves that it is possible to teach the module some really good
manners. I have barely encountered a similarly smooth chronograph
operation, be it in modular or in integrated designs. Even when
concentrating on the feel and sounds, it is impossible to differ
between the start and the stop (the apparent difference is typical for
lever-operated chronographs, but even column wheel chronographs often
show differences, be it only in sound), and the chronograph hand does
not jump when being started, nor does it show any irregular move or
stutter when running. I encountered a similar smoothness only once, in
a 2894 used by Chopard.
Checking
the accuracy is difficult in a watch that has no permanent second hand.
Using the chronograph hand as a replacement would not be the same,
since it would not disclose how far the additional components of the
chronograph influence the base movement’s performance. Anyway, my
personal rule of thumbs established over many years states that a watch
is running good, when its deviation stays under a minute per week. On
the wrist, the Marine Annual easily keeps under this value. Generally,
it needs about three weeks to be off by a minute, which is within the
chronometer limits.
Strap/Bracelet and Clasp:
Originally,
I acquired the Marine Annual chronograph with both, the unique
rubber/titanium strap and the stainless steel bracelet. The latter was
ordered with partially satined links. The standard is an all-polished
finish, but the satined outer links are available on special request,
without surcharge. I considered the sportive black dial to be a good
match with these two bracelets, and I was not wrong.
It
is not necessary to lose words about the marvellous rubber/titanium
strap; I sang its praise for numerous times. Five years after I got my
Marine Diver with this strap, I still consider it one of the best and
most convenient ways to attach a watch to the wrist.
The
steel bracelet is very well made. Unlike the bracelet for the 42 mm
Maxi Diver, which has a single folding clasp with integrated extension,
this bracelet has an extension-less double folding clasp. Design-wise,
I prefer the latter, since it hides its presence more effectively.
After
the chronograph was changed to the white face, however, I found the
rubber and steel bracelets to be a bit too sportive for the rather
classic appearance. Consequently, I am mostly using leather straps with
the chronograph, while the steel bracelet is often attached to the
Marine Diver.
Conclusion:
From
a technical point of view, the Marine Annual Chronograph might be one
of the least original Ulysse Nardin watches, since it does not use any
of the self-developed mechanisms. However, its unique design, and, most
of all, convincingly high level of quality does not leave any doubt
about its heritage. It is a wonderful everyday watch, with the ability
to appear both casual, and very elegant; typical Ulysse Nardin, I would
say.
This message has been edited by Marcus Hanke on 2007-07-19 10:30:14 This message has been edited by Marcus Hanke on 2007-07-24 11:17:59
Questions Questions
By: MTF : July 25th, 2007-23:06
Marcus, First, some thanks for a comprehensive review from a user's perspective. Common watch magazines only give a re-hash of the PR handouts and photos You PuristS however, actually use these watch thingies! About setting dates: if one travelled backwar...