Breguet

I'm torn between the clean look of a L&S 1 and the ornate look of the Brequet 5327 perpetual in yellow gold. I am not looking for a guaranteed investment, I want a watch I can get really emotional about. However spending this amount of money is a very significant step up from my most recent watch, a Chopard Mille Miglia limited edition split second. Therefore I am trying to learn more about Breguet and their production capability/philosophy as I do want the watch to be exclusive and rare at this price. Since it isn't officially a "limited" edition, I am wondering whether Breguet even operate with such a notion for their ? Does anyone know how many watches Breguet produce in a year or perhaps more specifically estimate they will produce in 2007 or would you even know how many of the perpetual they are producing? I understand the total allocation for Singapore year to date is merely 3 units but that could perhaps reflect the market demographics more than the production?

 

I find that particularly Breguet perpetual too cluttered. I prefer the ref. 7707 linear perpetual calendar, which is more sleek and elegant IMHO.

As far as I know Breguet does not reveal annual production, but my guess would be in the vicinity of 30,000-50,000 units, with the bulk being made up by Type XX Aeronavale, Marine and Reine de Naples. The grandes complications like the perpetuals and tourbillons probably make up 10-20% of production, which is similar across the industry.

- SJX

I agree the Lange 1 base model is almost unparalleled clean looking yet sophisticated enough to warrant comparison with Breguet and not as whitepaper simple as the classic PP Calatrava. I remain undecided exactly where to go so if we stay on target and discuss Breguet in this forum, then I have the following update.

I just read an article dated June 2007 (Watchtime) where Mr. Hayek reveals that 2006 production was 23,000 units and he forecasts 30,000 units in 2007.

He further, somewhat alarmingly mentioned that the production cap of 35,000 announced in 2004 no longer holds; now it is 50,000 and he thinks he might take it to 100,000 as the demand is growing much faster than he expected.

I appreciate your comments on percentage of the grandes complications. If we assume the midpoint, 15% of 30,000 units that makes it just 4,500 exclusive watches. That is then spread over 18 wristwatch models (I'm excluding the pocket watch) in the grandes complications series, or an average annualized production of 250 units. It's probably not evenly distributed with the upper end tourbillons and minute repeaters probably being in the teens but I'd expect the chronograph to be the volume model. In your estimation of 10-20% do you also count the 20 "Classique" models, the 3 "Tradition" and the 1 "special creation" wrist watches?

In light of the above and the Singapore allocation of 4 per annum, I'm assuming that "limited production" of max and most likely less than 250 units for the perpetual is realistic.

I own a Lange 1 and I am very fond of it. I think that it has great, clean design that deserves the place in the pantheon it enjoys, I think that it reflects an enviable level of crafstmanship. I think that its symbolic value to the German watch industry would be hard to exaggerate. All of that said, I would jump at the Breguet perpetual had I the means and the opportunity (I surely have the motive). The whole point of this Breguet seems to me to be emotion. The complete rejection of contemporary design values does leave the dial looking busy, but that is an intentional preservation of the past, not because someone at Breguet forgot to call the design team in for an update. The complexity of any perpetual calendar isn't there because it's a material hassle to advance the thing a day every now and then; it's there because a House has been able to design one and some people still respect that more than sticking a hearing aid battery in the back of a plastic case. It is "over the top" in all the right ways and for all the right reasons. IMHO, the Lange 1 is great; the Breguet is greatness.

I didn't mean to sound like I knew the origin of the perpetual's design; I surely don't. What I did mean to say is that it does not reflect a contemporary view of design, whenever it was first introduced. As to whether the cleaner designs you refer to are preferable, my own view is that it is important to distinguish between pieces that one wears with  relatively high frquency, where legibility is paramount and my preference is the same as yours, and pieces that one wears/owns/dreams of because of what they say about the limits of what can be done and the ways in which those limits have been/can be tested. The Breguet perpetual under discussion falls into the latter class for me.

I have owned Breguet Marine, Jaeger Reverso, Patek 5035, Lange 1, and others and nothing thus far has held my attention like the F.P. Journe Octa Reserve de Marche (Platinum). Journe is actually doing some of the work on Patek complications and each piece is truly built by hand. I have been wearing mine and get far more compliments than any of the other pieces I have owned. Good luck.... Q

I like FP Journe; to some extent I think he may be a modern reincarnation of AL Breguet, meaning that he may just be the most brilliant and original watch maker today. That said, I picked up my Breguet 5327 Perpetual this weekend and I'm overjoyed. I checked out a Lange 1 just one more time before I acquired the Breguet. The manual Lange 1 is stunning indeed - but when I realized I had no reservations wearing it to work whereas I'm concerned about wearing the Breguet as perhaps just a tad too opulent and perfect, it dawned on me just how much higher I rate the Breguet compared to the L&S so in the end it was no contest. The perpetual is STUNNING.

I chanced on this string in a global search and thought I'd update you all. I havent acquired any watches since the perpetual; I remain satiated to this point. The watch is still a stranger, like a romance you cannot quite comprehend. This is a love relationship that will last a lifetime. It is so complex and intriguing that I never quite can comprehend it all at one time and that keeps the mystery lingering. This watch is pure emotion and like a smitten lover, I remain its humble servant, ever presently aware that I am not quite worthy of this beauty and I am humbled that it sits on my wrist yet I am not its master. Oh wretched beloved, thy torment is such sweet sorrow..