Comments:
Breguet 5377 Ultra Thin Tourbillon
A few weeks ago Ovi posed a question here on
the PuristSPro Breguet forum about the Breguet 5377 Ultra Thin
Tourbillon and the Breguet 7047 Fusee Chain Tourbillon. I think it's a very interesting question and it
reminded me of a visit I had at the Breguet Beverly Hills Boutique where
I spent some time with several of their complications and
tourbillons. So I'd like to share a few pics and thoughts of the Ultra Thin
Tourbillon.
The Breguet Ultra Thin Tourbillon is available in platinum and rose gold. It's the world's thinnest self-winding tourbillon with a case thickness of only 7mm. The Breguet calibre 581 DR is an impressive 3mm thin.
The overall diameter is fairly large at 42mm but is quite comfortable on the wrist. The dimensions seemed strange to me at first because of the ratio between large diameter and thin case. The bezel is very thin and the sapphire crystal goes out to the edges making the watch appear larger than it really is (similar to how I feel about the original Breguet La Tradition 7027), but looked fine when I wore it for a few minutes.
Another detail I saw was that the Breguet secret signature (which is used to protect against forgery) seems to be deeper engraved and more noticeable.
Like most Breguets, the 18 carat gold dial is silvered and engine turned with different patterns. Near the 8 o'clock position is a power reserve indicator and displays up to the maximum 80 hours of the movement. Between 4 and 6 o'clock is the tourbillon with a brushed silver ring indicating the seconds. The hour and minutes are the signature Breguet heat blued open tipped hands. The tourbillon looks great, but personally I don't like the asymmetrical layout of the dial. The power reserve is a great function to have, but I think they could have made it smaller or placed it on the back so that it doesn't distract the views of the tourbillon.
The coolest part of the 5377 is the movement. The 581 DR is not only ultra thin but it also uses a peripheral rotor system. A very thin rotor rotates along the outer edge of the movement and from some of the pictures here you can see the small gear teeth that engages with the wheels of the movement winding train. The last time I played with a watch that had a peripheral winding system was the Carl Bucherer CFB A1000. From the transparent caseback you can see the winding rotor, tourbillon, and movement. Finishing is nice, but I wished that the plates were decorated more complicated engraving. I think it would also look nicer with heat blued screws to give the movement more visual contrast.
The 5377 is paired with a leather strap and a triple blade folding clasp in 18 carat rose gold. It has a circular "B" Breguet inside an asymmetric circle. I think Breguet did this on purpose to match the asymmetric dial layout. I prefer deployant buckles and this one was very comfortable and the push buttons on the side were easy to use and held solidly.
Overall I think that the Breguet 5377 Ultra Thin Tourbillon is the opposite of the 7047 Fusee, because it has a more classic look and feel. It's closer to one of my favorite new Breguet's (and my next grail watch) the 3797. The coolest part of the 5377 Ultra Thin Tourbillon is the thinness and the peripheral winding rotor system. I'll post pics soon of the 7047 fusee and chain with it's more substantial 15.95mm case.
Regards,
ED-209
This message has been edited by ED209 on 2015-01-12 21:38:43
The Breguet Ultra Thin Tourbillon is available in platinum and rose gold. It's the world's thinnest self-winding tourbillon with a case thickness of only 7mm. The Breguet calibre 581 DR is an impressive 3mm thin.
The overall diameter is fairly large at 42mm but is quite comfortable on the wrist. The dimensions seemed strange to me at first because of the ratio between large diameter and thin case. The bezel is very thin and the sapphire crystal goes out to the edges making the watch appear larger than it really is (similar to how I feel about the original Breguet La Tradition 7027), but looked fine when I wore it for a few minutes.
Another detail I saw was that the Breguet secret signature (which is used to protect against forgery) seems to be deeper engraved and more noticeable.
Like most Breguets, the 18 carat gold dial is silvered and engine turned with different patterns. Near the 8 o'clock position is a power reserve indicator and displays up to the maximum 80 hours of the movement. Between 4 and 6 o'clock is the tourbillon with a brushed silver ring indicating the seconds. The hour and minutes are the signature Breguet heat blued open tipped hands. The tourbillon looks great, but personally I don't like the asymmetrical layout of the dial. The power reserve is a great function to have, but I think they could have made it smaller or placed it on the back so that it doesn't distract the views of the tourbillon.
The coolest part of the 5377 is the movement. The 581 DR is not only ultra thin but it also uses a peripheral rotor system. A very thin rotor rotates along the outer edge of the movement and from some of the pictures here you can see the small gear teeth that engages with the wheels of the movement winding train. The last time I played with a watch that had a peripheral winding system was the Carl Bucherer CFB A1000. From the transparent caseback you can see the winding rotor, tourbillon, and movement. Finishing is nice, but I wished that the plates were decorated more complicated engraving. I think it would also look nicer with heat blued screws to give the movement more visual contrast.
The 5377 is paired with a leather strap and a triple blade folding clasp in 18 carat rose gold. It has a circular "B" Breguet inside an asymmetric circle. I think Breguet did this on purpose to match the asymmetric dial layout. I prefer deployant buckles and this one was very comfortable and the push buttons on the side were easy to use and held solidly.
Overall I think that the Breguet 5377 Ultra Thin Tourbillon is the opposite of the 7047 Fusee, because it has a more classic look and feel. It's closer to one of my favorite new Breguet's (and my next grail watch) the 3797. The coolest part of the 5377 Ultra Thin Tourbillon is the thinness and the peripheral winding rotor system. I'll post pics soon of the 7047 fusee and chain with it's more substantial 15.95mm case.
Regards,
ED-209
This message has been edited by ED209 on 2015-01-12 21:38:43
re: 5377
It's pretty amazing to see! I recall being in NY when they officially debuted the Carl Bucherer with the peripheral rotor. Thanks for the pics!
-MW
The 5377 peripheral rotor
I remember your post on the CFB movement peripheral rotor and it was the first thing I thought about when I saw the Breguet movement.
Regards,
ED-209
Regards,
ED-209
At 7 mm high, this is thin, not ultra thin, but thin.
And your pics do justice to the Watch, which is very Breguetesque. 
For those who like Tourbillons, this is an interesting offer. The only thing which disturbs me on this one is the size... 42 mm on such an elegant Watch is a bit too much, and even more when it is thin like this!
Best, Ed, and thanks for the good write up.
Nicolas
Extra-flat vs. Ultra flat
Hi Nico
Well time for two watchmaking definitions. First "ultra-flat". These are watches where the case is used as a functional part of the movement. Of course, this makes the watches with this construction thinner. However, ultra-flat movements have not enjoyed a reputation for reliability. There simply is too much of a chance that there will be enough flex in the caseback to affect the running of the movement (think of it: when the movement is separate from the case, it is protected from flexing forces, which is not true of the case itself).
Extra-flat has a circular definition in the Berner watchmaking dictionary. Extra-flat means "a movement that is extra-flat". How about that for an elightening definition!
By all standards of flat construction the Breguet tourbillon is extraordinary. The movement is 3 mm thick. Remember it is an automatic movement with a tourbillon and power reserve. Compare this to other extra flat automatic movements: The thinnest automatic movement was a Breguet movement (no longer in production which was 2.10 mm; then there was the trio of the caliber 71, 1120 and 240 all of which were 2.4 mm thick (respectively Breguet; AP/JLC/VC; and PP). Then there was Piaget at 2.35 mm. But all these are comparisons with time only automatic movements with short power reserves and low frequency. At just .6 mm greater thickness the Breguet movement offers automatic winding, a tourbillon, a power reserve indication, a high frequency and a long power reserve!!! Seen in perspective this is a completely ground breaking movement.
The total watch is 7 mm thick. That really is very very thin. Breguet could have made it thinner if it had been willing to sacrifice aesthetics. But that was out of the question. So the watch has a solid gold dial, classic coin edge case, etc.
Jeff
Thanks for your interesting feedback, Jeff. You know, I have the same problem with...
Some of the so called Utlra Thin JLC watches. Not that they are not very nice nor uninteresting, I just consider that since a certain thickness, we cannot use this appelation " UT " other than for some marketing purposes.
That doesn't remove the beauty of this Watch, though.
Best,
Nicolas
ultra and extra flat
Thanks Jeff for your comments on the extra and ultra flat definitions.
Regards,
ED-209
Regards,
ED-209
I handle the watch in Breguet Boutique in London.
First of all, I would thank the staff of Breguet Boutique in New Bond Street. The level of service was exceeding all other brand boutiques on the same street. We got friendliness, professionalism and the so typical arrogance was totally missing. Great visit!
I must agree with Nico; the watch is too larger. At 38 - 39 mm it would be much nicer. I am not a great fan of tourbillon but the watch is really nicely made and the way the oscillating weight is designed, is really clever. This 5377 is an automatic watch which looks from the back like a manual winding one.
Another watch we were looking at was Classique Chronomertie 7722BB. That is another really fantastic watch. There are only two things bothering me: the watch is 41 mm, again a bit big for my 8 inches wrist. Additionally, I do not like the 10Hz marking on the dial. It's like buying a car marked: 3.0 litres, bi-turbo, GT, Superdeluxe, Automatic, AWD, luxury-Line Sportback... All marked to the back of the car.
I feel that Breguet is somehow an ignored and under-valued brand here in Watchprosite. Anyhow, I have a lot of respect towards Breguet and my next one arrived the dealer last week. Sometimes in February I will pick it up...
Best, Kari
The size of the watch
I agree with you and Nicholas, I would prefer something more like 39mm.
Very cool that you'll be picking up a new Breguet soon. Which model or are you going to surprise us?
Regards,
ED-209
Very cool that you'll be picking up a new Breguet soon. Which model or are you going to surprise us?
Regards,
ED-209
Something with
enamel dial. I do not remember the reference but will send a couple of pictures later.
I will first pick up my AP 15202 this week and when I'm back in Europe, I'll go for the Breguet.
Best, Kari
The Chronometrie dial
A couple of people have commented on the 10HZ marking on the Chronometrie dial. I own the watch in wg and it has never bothered me, even for a second. It is very understated....barely there. Moreover, I think of all the watches with stuff written all over the dial. "Dopplefederhaus" "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" "Jours et Nuit". Basically every manufacture does it. One thing for sure, the marking does not diminish in the slightest the appreciation for all of the innovation poured into that watch.
I agree, It's hardly visible.
However, it is there.
True, i.e. "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" represent stupidity. I very much dislike all these texts.
I am having on my wrist at the moment Patek 3712 and just checked the texts on the dial: "Patek Philippe Geneva" at two o'clock. I could not see if without a loupe is there is "Swiss Made" at six o'clock and picked up from upstairs a loupe with 9 times magnification: there is under 6 o'clock index "Swiss" with very small print. I think this kind of information is enough.
I will pick up my AP 15202 on Friday. I simply love the layout of the dial but I have always wondered why there is text "Automatic" on the dial. I understand that there are some historical reasons for that "information" but still I dislike it a lot.
For me one of the main reasons to buy Breguet is the dial. I will not buy their now Chronometer as long as they keep the "10Hz" marking on the dial. It's just my very personal opinion but knowing that it is there, is in my opinion spoiling the dial.
Best, Kari
Thanks ED209 you are making my decision simpler!
Looking forward to the report on the fusee chain...
Ovi
Decision on the Breguet's
So which one are leaning more towards, the 5377 or 7047?
Regards,
ED-209
Regards,
ED-209
Thanks Stefan
We saw some amazing watches during our visit. Will post more on that fusee tourbillon.
Regards,
ED-209
The movement...
Is stunning! Something that if were made by other celebrated brands will make a lot of people to hail as a miracle of high end horology
The watch itself is pretty controversial as about the aestethic of the dial as the general proportions of the case which i really don't appreciate.
I don't like ultra thin watches wich appear like a mini-disc on the wrist, and i neither would be able to wear it with the proper dress.
But i guess it's what's dictated by the fashionable trends so much appreciated by the most part of people.
Regards