Comments:
Montlblanc is an universe I discovered not a long time ago... Horologically speaking.
It all started with the Monopushers I had the pleasure to see it in the flesh during the IGOTT II in Las Vegas... It was 3 years ago.
PuristS P10 LE:
My vision of Montblanc immediately changed, and it started to speak very loud to my heart.
The case, the dial ( enamel ! ) the coaxial pusher, integrated to the crown, and... the movement, superbly finished, all these important details contribute to make a very serious alternative to the Kings of the category, which are the JLC Duometre à Chronographe, the Lange Datograph, and below, the Patek 5170, or the Vacheron Patrimony.
Yes, I dare say it, Montblanc Villeret Chronographs are among the most somptuous the modern production can offer. A look at the movement will convince you, definitely.
And I am pretty sure that if there was not some snobism to pay attention to- or to neglect- a Watch because of the name on the dial, these remarkable chronographs from Montblanc would already be at the pinacle of Chronographs.
Still, I don't get the necessity to say that it belongs to the Meisterstück Heritage Collection, while Heritage collection would be enough, from my point of view.
I well understood that this appellation was given in honor of the legendary foutain pen from the brand, but a Watch is a Watch, and a pen is a pen. If you want to reach a legitimity with watches, which is really deserved when you make such fine watches, you don't need to associate it to pens. But this is just my point of view.
That being said, let's see this Watch in the details, now.
1/ The case.
Less sophisticated than the Villeret, it has its own appeal and character, made of class and elegance, in a more sober way.
It makes me think to a Lange or JLC ( Duometre ) case, which is a compliment.
The proportions are another good point. Not too big, with a diameter of 41 mm and a height of 11, 8 mm.
The thin bezel is another nice detail, perfectly integrated to the case.
Maybe thinner lugs would have been nicer, if we want to be picky?
As there are two kind of monopushers chronographs, at Montblanc, I would also have preferred the version with the pusher located in the crown, rather than the rectangular one at 2 o'clock, but both are historically correct, and it is just a personal preference.
The see through case back allows us to admire the Cal 13.21. It would be a pity to hide it, don't you think?
To be complete, the case is water resistant to 30 meters. And the Pulsograph is only available in rose gold, in a limited edition of 90 pièces, only.
2/ The dial.
Once again, a very elegant part of the watch, a bit formal, dressy, serious.
The roman hour markers ( XII and VI ) enhance this formal look, as well as the slim and long applied indexes. I would have preferred leaf shaped hands, rather than the Dauphine hands, but that is not bad.
The applied indexes, hour markers and hands are all rose gold plated.
The dial is silver, with a sunray finish.
The pulsometric scale fills the dial, above the second scale which is divided into fifths of seconds to correspond with the balance frequency of 2, 5 Hertz, according to the press release ( which I didn't notice when seeing the watch. )
The two subdials ( seconds at 9 o' clock, Minute Chronograph at 3 o' clock ) are perfectly aligned, a tad centered.
The overall impression is a very nicely balanced dial, I must say.
3/ The movement.
The most interesting part of the watch, a feast for the eyes.
Cal 13.21:
This is a 29, 50 mm large movement, 6, 40 mm high, made of 239 parts, 22 jewels, a large balance Wheel ( 11, 40 mm ) with Philips Curve, beating at 18000 alternances per hour.
The plates and bridges are made of German Silver ( maillechort ) finely decorated with Cotes de Genève, anglages and perlages.
A sculptural beauty.
Let's remind that it is a monopusher chronograph, which means that when you first press the pusher, the chronograph starts, then a second pression will stop it, and a last pression will reset it to zero.
Conclusion and general thoughts.
At 27 000 Euros, this Chronograph is a very serious offer from Montblanc, in my opinion.
The price / quality ratio is excellent, compared to the competitors of the category.
There are some details which are perfectible, such as the typography of Montblanc, maybe in a more retro style, for example,or the arabic applied hour markers, but all in all, I can only applaud Montblanc and the whole team involved in such a project and realisation.
If only it was available in white metal, and with a black dial, it would be interesting.
A last point, the limited edition of 90 pièces... Linked to a fountain pen, by the name. That should be avoided.
Montblanc wants to show that they are very capable to do other things than leather products and pens, and they are. So, when it comes to watches, they should " cut ", radically " cut " this reference.
Looking forward to reading your comments and thoughts,
Best.
Nicolas
This message has been edited by MTF on 2014-01-27 12:55:51 This message has been edited by amanico on 2014-01-29 09:16:46
I really don't like the way the 2 subdials are located on the Patek, Under the 3 / 9 line.
Therefore, the subdials on the Patek eat the pulosmetric scale, which is an aberration for a " doctor's Watch "...
To end, are you sure Patek didn't find the " inspiration " of the 5170 dial on other vintage watches, and not only Pateks?
I am sure that if we dig a bit, we could find some aesthically close dials on some VC, UN and other vintages...
The diamond between the lugs at 6 o clock? That was not mandatory, I agree.
The case is clearly inspired from brands Jérôme Lambert well knows...
Would I complain for that? No.
An excellent surprise, I agree. Now, Jérôme Lambert's challenge will be to work on Montblanc watches identity, on that, I completely agree with you.
Best, my friend.
Nicolas
They have two ways to take. The roots of an horological brand such as Minerva, with some very interesting things, and the mad way...
They have to work on, but I am pretty confident Jérôme Lambert and the whole Montblanc Team will reach the identity point in a strong way.
Best,
Nicolas
Was it all good during the last 13 years at JLC? Certainly not.
Was it good to see diversity back to JLC? Without doubt, yes.
Do brands have to stick with their past? I don't think so.
First because most of the brands have to do some " commercial " watches to fund the research and development on watches which make us happy.
Then because they have to adapt themselves, and to feed some ( necessary ) creaitivity.
Back to Montblanc, now, and especially, the Chrono 100... Is it ridiculous to see a Villeret movement in such a modern Watch?
I am not sure. It is a strong Watch, and necessarily, you will have haters and lovers, but this is not a Watch which let people indifferent.
Why not using the Villeret ressources for some mad watches?
I do agree with you that when I saw this one in Geneva, the first thing which came to my mind was the Extrem Lab ( one and two )....
But on the " 2 " there was no oïl free movement....
Though, Montblanc will have to face an " identity " issue, I agree.
A superb challenge for Jérôme Lambert!
Best,
Nicolas
PS: As you can see, there is at least an interest to see such watches... We have some superb discussions!
Montblanc SIHH 2014: A quick view on Meisterstück Heritage Pulsograph.
Montlblanc is an universe I discovered not a long time ago... Horologically speaking.
It all started with the Monopushers I had the pleasure to see it in the flesh during the IGOTT II in Las Vegas... It was 3 years ago.
PuristS P10 LE:
My vision of Montblanc immediately changed, and it started to speak very loud to my heart.
The case, the dial ( enamel ! ) the coaxial pusher, integrated to the crown, and... the movement, superbly finished, all these important details contribute to make a very serious alternative to the Kings of the category, which are the JLC Duometre à Chronographe, the Lange Datograph, and below, the Patek 5170, or the Vacheron Patrimony.
Yes, I dare say it, Montblanc Villeret Chronographs are among the most somptuous the modern production can offer. A look at the movement will convince you, definitely.
And I am pretty sure that if there was not some snobism to pay attention to- or to neglect- a Watch because of the name on the dial, these remarkable chronographs from Montblanc would already be at the pinacle of Chronographs.
Still, I don't get the necessity to say that it belongs to the Meisterstück Heritage Collection, while Heritage collection would be enough, from my point of view.
I well understood that this appellation was given in honor of the legendary foutain pen from the brand, but a Watch is a Watch, and a pen is a pen. If you want to reach a legitimity with watches, which is really deserved when you make such fine watches, you don't need to associate it to pens. But this is just my point of view.
That being said, let's see this Watch in the details, now.
1/ The case.
Less sophisticated than the Villeret, it has its own appeal and character, made of class and elegance, in a more sober way.
It makes me think to a Lange or JLC ( Duometre ) case, which is a compliment.
The proportions are another good point. Not too big, with a diameter of 41 mm and a height of 11, 8 mm.
The thin bezel is another nice detail, perfectly integrated to the case.
Maybe thinner lugs would have been nicer, if we want to be picky?
As there are two kind of monopushers chronographs, at Montblanc, I would also have preferred the version with the pusher located in the crown, rather than the rectangular one at 2 o'clock, but both are historically correct, and it is just a personal preference.
The see through case back allows us to admire the Cal 13.21. It would be a pity to hide it, don't you think?
To be complete, the case is water resistant to 30 meters. And the Pulsograph is only available in rose gold, in a limited edition of 90 pièces, only.
2/ The dial.
Once again, a very elegant part of the watch, a bit formal, dressy, serious.
The roman hour markers ( XII and VI ) enhance this formal look, as well as the slim and long applied indexes. I would have preferred leaf shaped hands, rather than the Dauphine hands, but that is not bad.
The applied indexes, hour markers and hands are all rose gold plated.
The dial is silver, with a sunray finish.
The pulsometric scale fills the dial, above the second scale which is divided into fifths of seconds to correspond with the balance frequency of 2, 5 Hertz, according to the press release ( which I didn't notice when seeing the watch. )
The two subdials ( seconds at 9 o' clock, Minute Chronograph at 3 o' clock ) are perfectly aligned, a tad centered.
The overall impression is a very nicely balanced dial, I must say.
3/ The movement.
The most interesting part of the watch, a feast for the eyes.
Cal 13.21:
This is a 29, 50 mm large movement, 6, 40 mm high, made of 239 parts, 22 jewels, a large balance Wheel ( 11, 40 mm ) with Philips Curve, beating at 18000 alternances per hour.
The plates and bridges are made of German Silver ( maillechort ) finely decorated with Cotes de Genève, anglages and perlages.
A sculptural beauty.
Let's remind that it is a monopusher chronograph, which means that when you first press the pusher, the chronograph starts, then a second pression will stop it, and a last pression will reset it to zero.
Conclusion and general thoughts.
At 27 000 Euros, this Chronograph is a very serious offer from Montblanc, in my opinion.
The price / quality ratio is excellent, compared to the competitors of the category.
There are some details which are perfectible, such as the typography of Montblanc, maybe in a more retro style, for example,or the arabic applied hour markers, but all in all, I can only applaud Montblanc and the whole team involved in such a project and realisation.
If only it was available in white metal, and with a black dial, it would be interesting.
A last point, the limited edition of 90 pièces... Linked to a fountain pen, by the name. That should be avoided.
Montblanc wants to show that they are very capable to do other things than leather products and pens, and they are. So, when it comes to watches, they should " cut ", radically " cut " this reference.
Looking forward to reading your comments and thoughts,
Best.
Nicolas
Looks good! But that's a little bastard if you ask me...
.... for many reasons. 1st because it feels like a 5170J had sex with a 5170G, a duometre ( for the case ), a 5205 (for the hands) and the diamond on the side is like a 3rd eye on the front of that alien.
The dial is clearly inspired by the 5170J, pulsometer of the 5170G, the sunburst dial of the texture is a way of correcting that cold plaster feel of the patek. The duometre inspired case, is a very smart move, as its the nicest JLC case IMO, and slimmer here, which is one of the weak points of the JLC that had a too thick movement.
Monopusher, again, JLC inspired. Well the new CEO of montblanc clearly had fun creating this one. Taking a little from here and there, correcting, fine tuning when possible.
The lack of history and the fact that Montblanc is such a strong name in the pen world, are the main drawback if you ask me.
As you well said, a pen is a pen and a watch is a watch. Instead of doing everything possible to separate both worlds, they are trying to bring them together. Everything about that watch feels like a "marriage contre-nature".
Still, i got to admit something. Its a good looking watch! I hate the writing on the dial, whether its "montblanc" or the movement ref. below. But overall its a very nice watch! Maybe the best surprise of SIHH. I know... comparing to the rest we've seen, its not that hard.
And The movement is gorgeous! Feels that a lot of attention and hand finishing has been done here.
Now the 27k question : Would you buy it?
Personally, my wish list has too many pieces that comes before that one. But i would recommend it, its a great watch for what you are paying.
Honestly, I much prefer this dial to the 5170.
I really don't like the way the 2 subdials are located on the Patek, Under the 3 / 9 line.
Therefore, the subdials on the Patek eat the pulosmetric scale, which is an aberration for a " doctor's Watch "...
To end, are you sure Patek didn't find the " inspiration " of the 5170 dial on other vintage watches, and not only Pateks?
I am sure that if we dig a bit, we could find some aesthically close dials on some VC, UN and other vintages...
The diamond between the lugs at 6 o clock? That was not mandatory, I agree.
The case is clearly inspired from brands Jérôme Lambert well knows...
Would I complain for that? No.
An excellent surprise, I agree. Now, Jérôme Lambert's challenge will be to work on Montblanc watches identity, on that, I completely agree with you.
Best, my friend.
Nicolas
Agree Nicolas, especially in those hard times...
... we need a dial that cheers up, not sad lower sub-dials
Now on the other hand, Patek is clearly inspired by her own vintage models, 130, 530, 1436.... Which is the logical when we have a long heritage. Its all legit here, its in every new Patek, always have roots in the past, and innovating, etc... you know the drill
Now as you know, the fine line between being inspired by a model and copying it is always thin and debatable.
Problem here, is that there is absolutely no reference in their past, other than pens.
As you well said, it will be a big challenge for the new CEO build an identity. If you ask me, its a lost fight because identity is always linked to the roots. And in this case, its to deeply rooted in the pen world.
Then again, they can always try to make nice watches, actually, now that i think about it, JLC is originally movement maker, and the duometre model is not rooted in any historical JLC model. It has been thought and created from scratch.
We can have a nice match between that Montblanc chrono and the duometre chrono :P
The Montblanc roots, now that they bought Minerva, is not necessarily linked to pens.
They have two ways to take. The roots of an horological brand such as Minerva, with some very interesting things, and the mad way...
They have to work on, but I am pretty confident Jérôme Lambert and the whole Montblanc Team will reach the identity point in a strong way.
Best,
Nicolas
I hope you will be right but I doubt..
Dear Nicolas,
I wish you were (or will be) right but when you see that Mr Lambert already introduced an "Extreme Lab" design at Montblanc and even uses Villeret movements for it, I am not sure we can be so confident... Come on, how can you make a so-called conceptual carbon watch with this kind of old school Villeret movements, it is ridiculous. At least at JLC they made kind of "titanium/carbon/oil free" movements for the Extreme Lab.
Mr Lambert already made all kind of unrelated watches at JLC but the brand was kind of strong enough to support /survive it (even if it certainly diluted the brand equity). It is even impossible for me to tell you how many collections JLC now has. When Mr Blümlein was in charge, JLC had only 3 collections....Montblanc is different as it has not strong historical models (i.e. identity) and this multi-style strategy might confuse the consumers even more.
Just my two cents and I am lucky not to be in charge of Montblanc
Best,
Goldenlutin
It is a long, passionate and interesting debate, Goldenlutin.
Was it all good during the last 13 years at JLC? Certainly not.
Was it good to see diversity back to JLC? Without doubt, yes.
Do brands have to stick with their past? I don't think so.
First because most of the brands have to do some " commercial " watches to fund the research and development on watches which make us happy.
Then because they have to adapt themselves, and to feed some ( necessary ) creaitivity.
Back to Montblanc, now, and especially, the Chrono 100... Is it ridiculous to see a Villeret movement in such a modern Watch?
I am not sure. It is a strong Watch, and necessarily, you will have haters and lovers, but this is not a Watch which let people indifferent.
Why not using the Villeret ressources for some mad watches?
I do agree with you that when I saw this one in Geneva, the first thing which came to my mind was the Extrem Lab ( one and two )....
But on the " 2 " there was no oïl free movement....
Though, Montblanc will have to face an " identity " issue, I agree.
A superb challenge for Jérôme Lambert!
Best,
Nicolas
PS: As you can see, there is at least an interest to see such watches... We have some superb discussions!
It verges on Trollism...
for people to post on the Montblanc watch forum a challenge to their very existence :-( Besides, its also getting tedious...
Thanks for bringing your point of view, tick talk.
You are more than right to support the brand. After all, the most interesting pages aren't those which are to be written?
Best,
Nicolas
So true Nicholas
Everything begins somewhere. Those WIS friends of MB have the opportunity to shape that future through thoughtful discussions and constructive criticisms.
The critics will always be around
I'd much prefer the comments out in the open than in the dark.
You have to admit, like it or not, that similar opinions are rampant.
However, the fact that they feel comfortable about sharing their thoughts on the forum is actually good imho.
Good for MB because they will get more input on their transformation
Good for critics because hopefully they will change their opinions after a few more seasons
Good for MB enthusiasts because a "converted critic" is always a more passionate supporter than a "fair weather fan"
Best, Mike
Agreed! I am a converted critic!
Totally agree with Mike.
I still remember debating with Mike here on MB Villerets and whether I should take the plunge... I got a VC, PP, Lange, Breguet and I still dream of the MB Villeret!! Meanwhile, I was a strong critic in many sense.
And now, after "conversion", I definitely feel MB's passion to share fine watchmaking. And I myself am passionate for their passion.
Cheers
Robin
I still remember debating with Mike here on MB Villerets and whether I should take the plunge... I got a VC, PP, Lange, Breguet and I still dream of the MB Villeret!! Meanwhile, I was a strong critic in many sense.
And now, after "conversion", I definitely feel MB's passion to share fine watchmaking. And I myself am passionate for their passion.
Cheers
Robin
The soup was too hot, now it's too cold
When Montblanc began producing the Villeret line, it was commonly criticized for having too big a gap in its pricing. Now they are trying to find a way to bridge that gap, and people are moaning about identity. Folks, I'm really sorry that they are known as a pen company. I don't even like their pens. But credit them for what they have done by bringing a quality movement down to a significantly more affordable price point in a watch that doesn't look like the new kid on the block but which remains plenty handsome. That is an achievement in and of itself, whether the watch screams Montblanc DNA or not from across a crowded room I am unlikely to buy it for myself, because of other things that I already own, but I would be enthusiastic about recommending it to a friend interested in a chrono at the relevant price.
and pretty soon it will be just right?
Just teasing... You just cannot satisfy everyone.
MB will always have detractors.
Let's see what they have in store for SIHH 2015. I'm sure it will be interesting.
As long as they keep some things exclusive to the Villeret range, they will continue to attract at the high end.
Hope all is well and happy 2015,
Mike
You are right the Duometre refers to so called captain watches which where produced..
and were in fashion long before JLC was even founded (see the pics below).
I think you are totally right about the fact that Montblanc has no roots to build on. But I think they do make things even more complicated by offering watches in at least 3 different segments. The "cheap" ETA/Sellita based ones, the Valfleurier ones (industrial "manufacture") and finally the Minerva/Villeret (super exclusive) ones. This makes things even more complicated for the consumer. For which kind of watches do they stand for? Accessible luxury? High-end handmade Villeret watches or something in the middle. It is seven getting worse since they now use different qualities (cheap, medium and exclusive) of movement in the same Meisterstück line with basically the same design codes. Before there was at least a clear cut with the Villeret collection. 
Or to this one, in 1881.
Cal 1920 RMSMI...
Most all of the brands have different segments, even the most prestigious. Nothing wrong with that.
The main goal is to get a status, an identity. Not easy to do, and to keep!
Best,
Nicolas
I got answers for you...
It was a few years ago, at a lunch with Jerome Lambert, i made some critics about the dial of the duometre Chrono. Mainly, that nothing pops out of that dial, no "waow effect", not even a difference of texture between the dial and the 2 sub-dials… Jst that plain "grainy paper" texture.
His answer was that the design was inspired from a pocket watch, that was the idea. As for the grainy paper texture, he didn't comment, but you must have noticed that they modified it later the road, adding some shine and bright to it.
As for the complexity of the Montblanc line of watches, we are new to the brand, and they are trying to build a catalogue. So expect more sub categories in the future.
Another example which shows that Patek didn't invent nothing, here;
U.G Medico Compax:
Much better looking than the Patek 5170, and much more coherent, don't you think?
Best,
Nicolas
Add that Universal to the orgy ;)
... its a huge party!
But still, i feel that the 5170 is the main inspiration of the MB chrono
A pen is a pen? ...
... and a plane is a plane and a pepper mill is a pepper mill and a car is a car? So glad that BMW, Mitsubishi, Peugeot and others never decided to build cars and sticked to what they did from the beginning ...
Marcus
Marcus
i agree with you...
… reminds me that porsche did something really exceptional with Porsche Design. Fantastic products from such a wide variety of functions, without focusing a precis domain…. And it works!
Perfect example of expanding your products line making a smart use of the strong image of your core business to develop new products. If you notice, how porsche design feels separated from Porsche and linked to it at the same time
Vuitton for example, trying to expand its catalogue of product, added watches just because the watch market has a potential. Thats an example of failure in expanding strategy if you ask me.
Its not going to be a walk in the park for Montblanc In sigh 2014, we got the proof of it. That chrono got a unanimous positive welcome. But again, main drawback is the name, while others do horrible plastic doubtful and sometimes horrible things,… and they manage to sell because of their brand Food for thoughts
In sigh 2014, we got the proof of it. That chrono got a unanimous positive welcome. But again, main drawback is the name, while others do horrible plastic doubtful and sometimes horrible things,… and they manage to sell because of their brand Food for thoughts
Counterpoint - I see the new Heritage Collection as an emancipatory statement...
which in my view drives a much welcome wedge between the Meisterstück pen collections and the watches.
If you compare the older MB watches with this new collection I think one can sense the desire of the brand to take away from the watches this - somehow obnoxious - Meisterstück thingy, this bold, round design, the importunate MB logo in the crown and everywhere else, etc.
The new concept tries to sell the watches sui generis, without relying on the fame in the pen business. In other words, trying to sell watches to those customers who already collect their writing instruments.
Thus, the Meisterstück designation changes from a brand name to a designation for a level of excellence.
This is where I think that MB tries to achieve an emancipation of the watches from their namesake pen siblings.
I guess - and I only can guess - that for us watchlovers this is really good news.
MB made a visible statement with the new Heritage. They are not there yet, but I heard they had only less than 5 months to work on this collection.
Given this they managed to present us well-rounded and reasonably mature watches I can be all but impressed.
Cheers,
Magnus
That's a good point, a big effort has been made...
... and that forces respect. We are criticizing strategies, branding and marketing, weird naming, etc... but in the end, a team has done a big effort to come up with this collect.
As always, its much easier to be on the other side and make critics.
When you say : "The new concept tries to sell the watches sui generis, without relying on the fame in the pen business. In other words, trying to sell watches to those customers who already collect their writing instruments."...
I really hope and i think its not what they were trying, that would be a bad approach to enter the watch world. IMO its just a way of accepting their heritage, showing they are proud of it, and not detaching completely from it.
Now all that being said, i start to really want to see that chrono in the metal
A very good move from MB.
Funny as I also thought the case looks like the Duometre. Which is of course, here, a compliment.
As you did, I could also handle a Villeret not long ago and could then really understand what these timepieces represent and where they stand in the Chronographs' hall of fame.
This is a very elegant oufit, inside a 50's styling package. I love it.
The little doubt I have is about the look of the metalic dial. Only the real experience will tell more about that matter.
There is still a little element I would like to see them changing: the "MB M13.21" on the dial.
However, a very nice newcomer to the market.
Thanks for sharing Nicolas.
Mark
A very interesting newcomer, indeed. You have to see it in the real.
Thanks for your input, Mark.
Nicolas