Bulgari

1. Can you describe your role at Bulgari?   

I’m the Managing Director of the Watch Business Unit of the Group. I manage the functions that allow us to conceive, design, develop and manufacture our timepieces.  

 
2. How important was it for Bulgari to create an in-house movement in terms of remaining competitive in the market?   

The creation of an in-house mechanical movement is for Bulgari the logical achievement of the verticalisation process which started 10 years ago. We initiated by integrating the expertise of the external watch components (high end bracelets, dials and cases). Once achieved, we launched in 2007 our base movement project – the Caliber 168, that we presented at Basel this year. This launch is a genuine milestone for us and is in line with our will to master internally all the production skills and know-how related to watch manufacturing. This is a steep road with no shortcuts. A passionate journey clearly pursued because of our strong integrity towards our clients that love our brand and our products. In fact, they expect from us not only the creativity and the unmistakably Bulgari design, but also the credibility in mastering the manufacturing aspects of all the components. A choice with no compromises, going all the way to the heart of the watch, to the base movement.  

 
3. What was your involvement with the new Bulgari Caliber 168?  What were the most technologically challenging aspects of creating this movement?    

I have been, of course, fully involved in the Caliber 168 project and followed it from the first discussions in 2007. The challenging aspects were many and exciting as they are in such an operation: to create a base mechanical movement, to define its technical constraints, to follow the set up of the production line and to meet the deadline of Baselworld 2010. This was crucial as the Caliber 168 is and was meant to be one of the three important statements that constitute an historical momentum for the Bulgari Watch division this year: the launch of the Serpenti line for our female clientele, the presentation of our first base caliber and the integration under the Bulgari assortment of the Daniel Roth and Gérald Genta collections. 

 
4. Can you tell us the design inspiration/decision of the Caliber 168 for the large balance, balance bridge (as opposed to a balance cock) and unique rotor design?  What are the benefits of these parts?         

Since the beginning in 2007, the project was intended to be simple, pragmatic and progressive, in harmony with the brand's desire to move forward in carefully controlled steps rather than re-inventing the wheel and trying to impress the industry with the latest eventual innovation. The technical specifications providing the framework for this development were relatively straightforward: the movement was to be the brand's first self-winding base calibre, its design and the architecture of its construction were to ensure optimal timing performance (to be able to meet the COSC requirements) and at the same time to be strongly reliable. The choices of the alloy, the maillechort instead of the simple brass, and the balance bridge opposed to the balance cock, were aiming at providing more sturdiness to the movement and to the regulating organ. We wanted to obtain a strong torque and sturdiness in order to exploit future development opportunities and evolutions.

Regarding the rotor, its design meets both an aesthetical and a functional objective: the bi-directional winding function and the design coherence to the Sotirio Bulgari line launched in 2009 for the celebration of the 125^th anniversary of the company. 

Sotirio Bulgari - 125th Anniversary Edition in pink gold

5. How large is your staff of watchmakers and how many are dedicated to the Sotirio line and other Bulgari lines?    

There are around 300 passionate people working in the Watch Business Unit. Obviously the majority are in the production areas, across the manufacturing sites of Le Sentier, where the Haute Horlogerie collections see the light, La Chaux-de-Fonds for the manufacturing of the base caliber and the high-end dials, Saignelégier for cases and metal bracelets. Neuchatel is dedicated to the head quarters of the Watch Business Unit and the product development, quality assurance, watch assembly and after sales service departments.  

 
6. What are the ex workshops standards for rate stability?    

I can say that quality is an obsession that goes along the entire development and production phases. The Quality department assures that the industrialization of our components is correctly conceived. Rigorous control procedures are put in place. For the launch of a completely new watch, we have reached the top test number of 701 homologation tests in single components and the entire watch. These are functional and aesthetic and simulate the aging of the watch on the wrist of its owner.

 
7. Do Bulgari or DR/GG movements use free-sprung balances?  Why or why not?    

It depends on the movement’s typology. Some use the free-sprung balance, some others not such as the Tourbillon. For this last example, the reason is obvious due to the functioning of the regulator system. For the others and depending on the mechanism and complications, the free-sprung balance allows to obtain an increased precision.

 
8. What sorts of challenges present themselves with retrograde movements? What safeguards are built in to address this?   

Retrograde function is a philosophy of displaying time that distinguishes an important number of petites and grandes complications of the group. The mastering of the technical aspects is complete due to the extraordinary development skills present in our Manufacture in Le Sentier and a long experience built in years. The safeguards are linked to the strength of the spring that has to be constant and precise. But the most interesting challenges are in combination with the jumping hour function. In fact, the time setting can be done only forward, but as the user could accidentally go backwards, we secured this eventuality with a disengaging system that avoids technical issue on the movement.  

 


BVLGARI Gerald Genta Collection Octo Bi-Retro Steel Ceramic

9. With brands placing increased emphasis on SAS (Sales After Service), in general what is the average turnaround time for a watch being sent in for repair/service?  2, 3 or 4 months?  Have you made efforts or progress in decreasing the turnaround time within the past couple of years?  What is the most common reason for a watch being returned for repair?   

After Sales has a growing importance in the relationship with the clients. It is a loyalty builder that can generate a positive word of mouth among the watch community, but also a strong disaffection in case of a bad experience.

Bulgari is structured with an After Sales Service network that is local and central. Some repairs are performed quickly locally, such as a basic maintenance, some more important can need to be sent back to Switzerland in the Central Service center. The lead-time depends on the complexity of the maintenance, its repair location, the aging of the watch to be serviced (vintage or current production) and the speed of the final client in approving the estimate done by the watchmakers. On an average basis, we are under 2 months from the estimate approval and this is an improvement of around 30% vs. two years ago.

For the sake of the statistics, 95% of the repairs done centrally are delivered within the announced date and the service is under warranty for one year. The returns on this activity are under 3%.   
 

10. How has your business unit adapted recently to the integration of GG/DR?    

The integration of the Manufacture of Le Sentier has a very positive effect on all the Watch Business Unit. It is a fantastic added value that complements the strong skills already present and on the other hand benefits from a more structured organization that will help develop further the high-end male business.  

 
11. What are the considerations that led to the decision to put Bulgari’s name on the new Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta dials?     

As already mentioned by Mr. Francesco Trapani, CEO of the Bulgari Group, the acquisition of Gérald Genta and Daniel Roth in the year 2000 was done to acquire the skills in manufacturing Haute Horlogerie time pieces. The Group has strongly invested in the know-how and in the manufacturing facilities. The R&G brands, on the other hand, have always been competing at a niche level. In the meantime, Bulgari has developed the male business increasing the technical content of the watches and by consequence its price point, reaching continuity with the Daniel Roth and Gérald Genta assortments. It was now the time to put all the means that the Group has carefully built in years to one only objective: serve and please the most demanding male clients with timepieces of undisputable quality, prestige and appeal. This could only be done by combining the extremely talented skills present in Le Sentier with the awareness and the power of the entire Bulgari organization, distribution network and communication support. This will finally provide the savoir-faire present in the manufacture with the worldwide exposure it deserves.   

 
12. If a collector who purchased an original DR/GG watch requests to have the dial changed to a Bulgari DR/GG dial, would you allow this dial swap?  And would you allow this for an authorized dealer who has pre-Bulgari DR/GG stock?   

If a Final Client wishes to change the dial with the new one, he is more than welcome in our stores to service the watch. Clearly I’m referring to those timepieces that continue in the Bulgari collection.  
 

13. Since the announcement of the new partnership back in January of this year, have there been any surprises or unforeseen challenges?   

Well, I must say that we put a lot of effort in keeping the confidentiality of the project to allow Mr. Trapani to announce and explain to the watch community this strategic move. This is also the reason that brought me to use only our dial manufacturer, Cadrans Design, for the development and the production of all the collection. Allow me to say that they are doing a fantastic job.

14. At this year’s Baselworld, the public saw the release of a number of Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta watches by Bulgari.  How did you decide to focus on the specific models that were presented and not others?   

The choice has been driven by two main criteria: the first, to maintain the best timepieces with the strongest identity and personality, the second, to concentrate on the fewest number of references that cover the wide price range of the two assortments in the high-end. This is very important for the understanding of the final clients and also for the trade. In fact, our business partners are keen on maintaining efficient the stock value necessary to generate their business.  

 


BVLGARI Caliber 168, mechanical self-winding in-house movement

15. What were the design goals during the redesign process of these watches and what were the biggest challenges?   

The creative challenge was fascinating and very motivating for the designers. We gave only one constraint: to keep the DNA of Roth & Genta’s extraordinary watchmaking level. Nobody can say that in the new versions, there is a will of “democratization”  of these high-end timepieces. On the creative side, we worked on two axes: for the Bulgari Genta collection, we leveraged on the cloisonné  technique. For the Bulgari Roth, we played with the combination of white lacquer and black gold treatment, adding applied indexes with the 12 and 6 numerals, a Bulgari stilème since the beginning.

In terms of style, you might share with me the sentiment that on the Bulgari Genta timepieces we have extended the lifecycle of the watches. Slightly more sober in the mood, still being very striking models. On Bulgari Roth, the exercise brought towards an improved contemporary of the aesthetic.

In both cases, they clearly benefit of an increased refinement.

In fact, I was very touched by the reaction of our watchmakers in Le Sentier when they first were exposed to the collection just before Baselworld. They were impressed and shared the feeling of having extended the beauty of these exceptional timepieces.   

16. What do you think is Bulgari’s greatest strength in terms of exterior watch design?  What is it that makes your client base come back again and make repeat purchases?  What is your “secret sauce”?   

Bulgari’s greatest strength is its unique and unmistakable design, combined with an extraordinary quality, both for jewellery and watches. If we focus on our timepieces, our watches are always and without exception instantly recognizable, out of any personal and subjective taste. Bulgari brings to watch design a strong shape and identity. That is what our clients want: a signature on their wrists, through a stylish shape, and the double branded watches such as Bulgari Bulgari or Diagono for instance. You may translate the words “secret sauce” with the “perfect complicity” between our Italian style and the Swiss finest watch expertise.  

Sotirio Bulgari, Caliber 168, 43mm 18ct pink gold case, aligator strap

17. What do you think about online watch forums such as PuristSPro?   

A forum such as PuristSPro gives us the valuable opportunity to read comments on our watches by the most exigent, competent and passionate watch aficionados. For instance, I have followed with attention the discussions on the 2010 projects we have presented. I must say that in the good and the bad, the posters always bring up very strong points of view that are emotional and at the same time balanced. Clearly I enjoy the numerous appreciations we receive, but I also admire those that express their doubts. I respect a different opinion and I consider it as a constructive stimulus when it’s in line with the values of the brand. I enjoy very much having my laptop with me on my sofa after dinner and surfing across emotions.   

 
18. Which part of the watch business do you enjoy more – the watchmaking side or the business side?  Would you rather be the Master Watchmaker or the CEO of a watch brand?   

I consider the business side and outcome. You can’t, in my opinion, make good business if your goal is making good business. I love the idea generation. When we see a new drawing, or a new idea in displaying a function I like discussing it with my team, our watchmakers and constructors and see it growing, adding creativity. It is wonderful to see what a simple idea generates in terms of excitement, exchange among team-mates, or how the same idea can be differently perceived. It’s our culture. Not a one man show, but a contribution of different valuable competencies.

19. What interests or hobbies do you take part in outside of work?   

Personal and professional balance is a value that I try to protect. My family is my strongest value. Hobbies…Being in Switzerland since 10 years, I enjoy very much the mountains... Skiing in the winter and enjoying few private moments for me, motor-biking in the summer.

20. Which Bulgari watch is your favorite and why?   

The next one, obviously!