Patek Philippe

The new 2014 collection, the new Patek Philippe booth and the coming 175^th Anniversary – lots of news, impressions and pictures to share.

Patek Philippe presented nothing less than 23 new models in Basel, but not all of those are “real” novelties. Some watches are new variants of known references and some watches have been introduced before, even when it happened in a quiet way like with the new dials of Ref. 5270G. The latter have been already available since autumn 2013. The Aquanaut collection is the only one without a new model. Whenever we look at the current Patek Philippe collection we should keep in mind there are already more than 180 references available and quite a lot of them are so called classics.

 

Before we look at the watches in detail I would like to share something about Patek Philippe´ s new booth for Baselworld. For more than ten years they had used the same booth.

(old)

(new)

The all-new Patek Philippe exhibition stand, a steel and glass structure that literally radiates the values of the manufacture. The light-flooded pavilion with 1500 m2 on three floors offers 50% more space than the previous stand. The 600 m2 glass façade and 16 external showcases that present the collection stand for the transparency and openness that also characterizes the company's communication philosophy: Welcome to Baselworld 2014!

Especially for visitors of the Baselworld who paid sfr. 60,- (day-ticket) and didn´t have an appointment with Patek Philippe (or others) it is nice to have at least an exhaustive view on the collection and especially the novelties. Bravo to all brands who took care of this!

The 175th Anniversary is coming closer – 1st of May 2014. Even when there will be some activities and communication before autumn, we all will have to wait until October 2014 to see the "celebration” pieces. Good or bad, but for sure it will help to get more attention than during such a big show as Baselworld. Also, who is celebrating his birthday in advance? It´s just not common and the decision were taken like this, anyway. That´s it, for today!

When looking at the novelties at a first view you could get the impression there is lots of “steel” which is quite uncommon for Patek Philippe as they have less than 20% of steel watches in their collections – if we don´t talk about the twenty~4.

So let´s finally have a look to each collection. I will show you all new references (I am aware) and will go more in detail when I spent some hands-on time with the novelty. The latter was only possible for a small selection, because of several (good) reasons and the most challenging one was a 30 minutes (only) appointment to take my own pictures for you.

 

I will present them by collection and will post them below, step-by-step.

This message has been edited by small-luxury-world on 2014-04-13 08:58:49 This message has been edited by small-luxury-world on 2014-05-01 01:35:59

In the CALATRAVA collection we have two new pieces – one for men and one for ladies.

 

Ref. 5153 G

There have been two versions before, one in YG and one in WG (black dial). The new one Ref. 5153G-010 comes in WG and with a silvery opaline dial.

Case diameter:   38mm

 

Movement:         Caliber 324 S C

 

 

Ref. 4895R

“The Ref. 4895R is an 18K rose gold case modeled after the classic round Calatrava style that dates back to 1932 when Patek Philippe first introduced this graceful design. The 162 baguette diamonds (~5.62 ct.) are draped around the dial in up to five rows and have flared ends over the strap. All the stones in the baguette rows are closed-set, creating a lovely contrast between the warm rose gold hue of the bezels and the white gleam of the diamonds.” (Press Release)

 

Case diameter:   34mm

 

Movement:         Caliber 215

It is a nice watch but I much prefer the black dial version.

Fx

... quite a few people blame them, if we talk about classical/elegant watches.

Still it is nice to have options, isn´t it?

Thanks, FX!

Oliver

The new Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph Ref. 5990/1A combines two highly popular complications and features additional functions for enhanced everyday convenience.

What looks like a simple addition of a new “smaller” complication, was in fact quite challenging and not only for the watchmakers.

The right side accommodates the chronograph pushers and protection of the crown while the left side features the two time zone correctors with which the local time hour hand is bidirectional increment able in one-hour steps. Thus, the full luminescent hour hand indicates local time at the owner's present location, and the skeletonized hour hand keeps track of the time at home. Both time zones have separate day/night indicators. The redesigned black dial with the typical horizontal embossed Nautilus pattern and a bright-dark gradation from the center to the periphery features an analog date (coupled with local time) at 12 o'clock as well as the chronograph's 60-minute counter at 6 o'clock. Beneath it is a movement that makes the connoisseur's heart beat faster:

The self-winding mechanical manufacture caliber CH 28-520 C FUS with a heavy 21K gold rotor, column-wheel chronograph control, a vertical disk clutch, and a Gyromax® balance with a patented Spiromax® balance spring. All these assets are safely packaged for water resistance to 120m in a casually elegant stainless steel Nautilus case with a sapphire-crystal case back.

When talking to Philip Barat (Head of Patek Philippe Development), he mentioned that the most difficult part of the new added complication was the isolator …- for convenience “only”.

The new caliber CH 28-520 C FUS movement is (as mentioned above) a chronograph with a traditional column wheel design, an innovative disk clutch and is supplemented with the Travel Time mechanism. This ingenious device dates back to a patent granted to Patek Philippe in 1959. It not only facilitates the bidirectional adjustment of local time in one-hour increments, but is also totally isolated from the going train when time-zone settings are changed. This prevents adverse effects on the amplitude of the balance and the rate accuracy of the watch.

 

I won´t go more in technical detail, but I can assure you the solution found is absolutely convenient for the owner of the watch. Even when trying to push very fast, back and forward, nothing failed and it felt (relatively) smooth. No matter when and where (beside under water, I guess) you change it; it is safe and works very well. I tried it myself, but of course not without permission

 

The date display coupled with local time (originally an aperture date at 3 o'clock in the Ref. 5980 Nautilus chronograph model) has been repositioned to 12 o'clock as an analog date, and the monocounter at 6 o'clock was converted into a 60-minute counter. This metamorphosis was implemented with 47 additional parts. Nonetheless, the movement is merely 0.3 mm higher than its predecessor.

 

The case may look familiar but needed a lot of work, because there haven´t been pushers on the left side. In fact they had to redesign the case. Thanks to its characteristic porthole contour with two lateral hinges, the Nautilus case was ideal for this venture. While the right-hand hinge protects the crown, the one on the opposite side was replaced with the plus and minus correctors. Because they precisely follow the original outline of the case, the unmistakable Nautilus design is preserved. What seems so self-evident as regards the silhouette proved to be a formidable challenge for the case makers: each additional pusher requires a separate bore in the case, yet it still has to be water-resistant.

 

The new time zone function also has an impact on the dial, which presents the typical Nautilus style in a new arrangement. The dial is black with a slight bright-dark gradation from the middle to the periphery and features the familiar horizontally embossed Nautilus pattern accentuated with ten applied luminous hour markers in 18K white gold.

Positioned slightly below the center axis, the day/night indicators are new elements: one at 9 o'clock for local time as indicated by the luminous hour hand, and the other at 3 o'clock for home time represented by the skeletonized hour hand. The new analog date at 12 o'clock and the new 60-minute chronograph counter at 6 o'clock round off the dial.

This symmetrically organized layout sets the stage for the baton-style hour hand with a luminous coating for local time, the skeletonized home-time hour hand of the same size, and the longer baton minute hand, also with a Superluminova coating, for both time zones. The slender chronograph hand is made of rhodiumed steel and with its wide counterweight exhibits the same lancet shape as the small white lacquered hand of the 60-minute chronograph counter at 6 o'clock. It stands in visual equilibrium with the delicate baton-style date hand in white lacquered white gold at 12 o'clock.

 

Some live close-ups:

On the wrist :

… especially on mine ( ) it felt immediately at home and very comfy.

Even the size of Philip Barat´s (prototype) bracelet was just perfect for me and it was quite hard to give it back …

The new Patek Philippe Travel Time Chronograph Ref. 5990/1A replaces (only!) the Nautilus chronograph Ref. 5980/1A with a steel bracelet, which was first presented in 2006 on the occasion of the 30th anniversary of the Nautilus collection.

 

Conclusion :

 

To make it short: I like it a lot - as not to say I desire it.

I really have to see it in the metal. Your shots clearly display the complexity of the case. I'm less convinced by the dial but maybe I will change my mind when I will see it.

Fx

FX, can you elaborate what disturbs you?

Thanks!

Oliver

Ref. 5960/1A

When the Ref. 5960 was launched in 2006, the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Chronograph in platinum was the manufacture's first self-winding chronograph. It manifested a new and unique style with its prominent monocounter and three large calendar apertures, and quickly established itself as one of the most coveted timepieces of the Patek Philippe portfolio. Later it was introduced with different dials and in different precious metals. This time it was introduced in steel and with a bracelet. All other versions are discontinued, now.

 

Patek Philippe's stainless steel watches have always ranked among the most desirable timepieces because they were crafted only in small numbers. They were not regularly produced until 1976, when the manufacture introduced the casually elegant Nautilus line. Its memorable slogan: "One of the world's most expensive watches is made of steel." Twenty years later, the attractively stylish Aquanaut was also endowed with a stainless steel case. With very few exceptions – such as the ultra-thin Ref. 5950A split-seconds chronograph which has been in the collection since 2010 – all other Patek Philippe men's wristwatches were systematically cased in gold or platinum. As regards this strict distinction between casual and classic watches, the new Ref. 5960/1A is another one of these seductive exceptions.

When I saw the first official pictures I was surprised to see it in steel and with such a sporty style. Was it love at the first view? No.

 

But when it comes to Patek Philippe I tend to have at least a second look, because quite often it’s worth to look closer. To create icons is a tough job which they managed quite often so far and to change iconic watches is probably even more difficult. Not all icons of today have been loved from the beginning …

 

Let´s have a look in detail, now. Was it only a change to steel, plus a bracelet?

No, not at all!

 

For better readability they redesigned the co-axial monocounter – as you can see in the picture above.

 

Now all the date windows have frames. The new silvery-gray dial (note: even when it looks almost white in pictures, it isn´t) with its striking red accents, interesting bright-dark contrasts, and the dynamic, performance-oriented looks of its explicitly three-dimensional architecture. The latter gets much more obvious if you see it in the metal, but I will try to show it later with some pictures. An uncommon feature in a Patek Philippe watch: the red "1" in the date aperture, which kicks off each month with a colorful stimulus while the dates from the 2nd to the 31st days are, displayed black on white. Thierry Stern had the idea and he thought it could be a nice detail to mark something special. It is a genuine premiere for Patek Philippe, as is the combination of an Annual Calendar chronograph with a steel case and the stainless steel "drop" links bracelet.

 

Hands-on pictures :

The watch in hand feels solid, without being too heavy. Everything is smooth, no sharp edges or something like this. The polishing is executed with scientific precision.

The artisans are required to accrue several years of experience before being entrusted with the finissage of the manufacture's cases. Because of its hardness, stainless steel challenges the skills of the case specialists and imposes special requirements on their tools. It takes much longer than a gold case would to polish a steel case with consecutively finer abrasives until it reflects light with an immaculate sheen.

Maybe for some the bracelet looks familiar, because it was first introduced in 1997 for the Ref. 5036/1 Annual Calendar and now celebrates its debut in stainless steel.

 

Close-ups :

Even when the style is quite new for Patek Philippe, the attention to details is not new at all and proofs their skills once more.

 

The movement is well-known, but I would like to add some pictures just for completion.

The Patek Philippe CH 28-520 IRM QA 24H caliber beats with a frequency of 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 hertz), which assures a constant balance amplitude and thus high rate accuracy. The movement is a prime example of tradition paired with innovation. It combines the classic columnwheel control concept with a modern vertical disk clutch that eliminates the risk of hand jump or recoil when the stopwatch function is activated. The clutch is practically friction-free, so that the chronograph hand can be used as a permanently running seconds hand if desired.

 

The patented Spiromax® balance spring made of Silinvar® is another innovative feature. Its isochronous oscillation, low mass, antimagnetic properties, and unique geometry assure high rate stability and uniformity.

On the wrist :

Conclusion :

 

It is “only” water-resistant to 30 meters, but that is fine if you don´t expect it to be a sports watch. I really like it for what it is, a modern and sporty interpretation of a classical watch. The case is 40.50mm/13.55mm and that means it should be fine on a lot of different wrists, casual with T-Shirt and under the sleeve of a business shirt. Especially for markets with high humidity it should be a great addition to the collection, because if you like it in general I can imagine the watch 24h/7d on the wrist. So for some it may be collectible and for some it may be just convenient, but I guess all of them will be happy at the end.

 

Me would be happy to wear it, but it doesn´t make me smile – at least not yet.

 

 

Ref. 4968G

Case diameter:   33.3 mm

 

Movement:         Caliber 215 PS LU

 

 

Ref. 7121/1J

Case diameter:   33 mm

 

Movement:         Caliber 215 PS LU

The photos are wonderful !!

Cheers,

Gordon

will be GRAND COMPLICATIONS ... but needs some more time.

Cordially,
Oliver

Honestly, I don't understand the watch. Let me explain: it is obviously a nice watch and I appreciate its dial. But Patek presents its as a kind of "more casual" version of the 5960 explaining to some customers that it could be an all-around watch. But with a waterproofness of 30m ? So at the end, I'm lost. What is the real purpose of this watch?

Anyway, thanks a lot for the comprehensive report... and now let's wait for the second half of the year for the main course.

Fx

watches and especially those we like and discuss here: "What is the real purpose of this watch?" Does it really matter? Just a thought?!

Anyway, for me casual and sporty is or at least can be quite different - product specifications can be quite different as well. As I already wrote, it is not meant to be a sports watch

Thanks!

Oliver

For a fantastic report and stunning photos. There are some nice new pieces, but I am quite sad to see the 5960P out of production. I understand this is the natural evolution with Patek, but still disappointed. Kind regards,

there will/could be something new some time soon?! Me looking forward to it, because I am always curious

Thanks for your kind reply!

Oliver

I like this Oliver you have given me hope . Kind regards,

The way you describe how difficult it is to polish ss bracelets (and cases too), one realy wonders about the use of white gold. 

"the use of white gold ... win-win-win .." it is interesting to get your point of view.

No matter what the brands are thinking or want at the end it needs customers to put money on it. Some ask for gold (or any other precious metals) because it makes the product more valuable for them. Or they just want to be/feel different - not to say superior. Some like the different weight or the different shades from cold to warm. ...

For me (personally) I prefer non precious metals/materials for sports and tool watches, I can imagine each kind of appropriate material on casual watches and prefer precious metals for classical watches - at least most of the time

Oliver

I have very mixed feelings with the new 5960...

First I hope that the bracelet doesn't allow Patek to sell it at the price of the Pt.

Then, I really hope you can buy it without this bracelet, which doesn't match with the spirit of the Watch. I would rather see this version with a perforated black leather strap, a Rally strap, or an old calf, black...

But with this bracelet, even my grandfather looks younger.

So, if without this bracelet, and with an appropriate strap, if the water resistance is at least the double of what it is, and if the price is good, well, why not?

I would have loved to see Patek daring a version without annual calendar...

Well...

Best,

Nicolas.

This message has been edited by amanico on 2014-04-13 21:59:07

Yes, it is. No, it is not possible.

And (at least to me) it is sure that you are not the target group of this specific watch

Thanks my friend!

Oliver

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It came out.  But your photos confirm my first initial thoughts, I don't like it.  The dial just doesn't work for me, with the different colours and the bracelet makes it look worse.  Having read Nicholas comments I could be swayed.  I think he is right, a leather perforated strap would change the whole look.  If anyone gets a chance, I'd love to see it this way.  

Regarding the strap, it is not possible - steel bracelelt only.

Cheers,
Oliver

No message body

Let's wait for the celebration pieces  

before the "main course" - the Grand Complications? I am surprised

Cheers,
Oliver

I find the new versions of the 5950 very nice, the 5940G appealing and the 5204P stunning.

But as said previously, there are some novelties that I do not see as appealing and looking like mistakes to me. As usual with Patek time will tell

with you on the new noveltys

any clue on price for that marvel? i mean new Nautilus?

 

.

write a report on enamel dials, dome clocks, and other artisan pieces ??

If yes, I will be eagerly awaiting for this report.

Thanks,

Gordon