Patek Philippe

Following the thread I posted regarding the 10 years of the first Advanced Research related watch, the 5250P (patek.watchprosite.com) I thought I could sum-up the overall chronology of these very special watches.

The principle is that for each new Silinvar® part developed (Silicon-based material), a new Patek Advanced Research timepiece is released, housing the new part and all the ones previously unveiled (in different calibers to keep it simple...).

As you know, the main advantages of Silicon-based material are the lightness, the fact they are less subject to wear, there is no need of lubrication, they are amagnetic and they are not influenced by normal temperature variations.

The problem with elements made from Silicon only is that they may brake more easily than steel for instance. Furthermore, as we can't correct their physical state after they are made (can't be folded up), the difficult task for the research teams is to find clever ways (coatings, alloys, industrial crafting techniques) to balance these side effects.

 

First step: 2005

They started with the escape wheel in the Patek 5250's 315 caliber (100 pieces).

Advantages:

- No lubrication

- Less wear (maybe more yet on the anchor's side...)

- Lighter (less inertia=less impact on accuracy because of shocks, less energy needed)

 

 

Second step: 2006

They added to the previous escape wheel the Spiromax which is the flat hairspring element of the program, in the Patek 5350's 324 caliber (300 pieces).

The difficulty is not only to craft this part with an ultimate precision (as it cannot be set afterwards) but they also have to integrate the ending elements which are usually fixed after a standard spiral is set.

Advantages:

- Better isochronism

- Amagnetic

- Temperature compensated

- Lighter=less damage issues

The technique used for crafting these hairsprings makes them all the same, needing no individual setting and adjustment. In the other hand it needs very high graded industrial techniques to get them perfect without needing any correction.

Credit: Vpregulator on PuristSPro

 

 

Third step: 2008

Finally, two years after the previous elements, three parts added together:

To the two previous elements, the searching team added the anchor hence giving birth to the Pulsomax (name of the 3 parts all together), housed into the Patek 5450R's 324 caliber (300 pieces).

 

New anchor-escape wheel contact design

The beautiful 5450P which served to house the new movement:

And its 324 based caliber:

 

It was also included in the Grand Complication 5208. The innovation is not only used in experimental watches but was also first added in this very complicated timepiece:

 

And later on to the 5235 too (thanks Julian for the reminder):

 

Final step (to date): 2011

And finally, the high-tech balance wheel:

To the Pulsomax launched in 2008, Patek has implemented the forth part, the balance wheel, to give birth to the Oscillomax display. It was integrated in the Patek 5550P's 240 caliber (300 pieces).

The goal of the new balance wheel is to keep the element as light as possible where not needed (in the center), in order to be less influenced by external movements like shocks, together with keeping a heavier external charge (by the mean of a gold alloy incorporation) to maintain regularity.

The caliber's construction allows to have a quite mesmerizing view on the new escapement feature:

The result in accuracy is significant when combining the four elements (more about this matter in Dje's post linked at the end of this post).

 

And as CH9698 underlined lately the three first watches were Annual Calendars as the last 5550P was a Perpetual Calendar.

You'll find here a very interesting post that Dje wrote in 2011 when the last version was unveiled, the 5550P: patek.watchprosite.com 

 

And the final result:

I think we don't underline enough the investment and experience needed to come to that end with a usable product, hence something a brand can sell without being afraid it could break after several months. Finding the way to do is something, finding a way to make it reliable is yet another.

We don't often see those important pieces so if you have pictures to share, please go ahead

 

Cheers, Mark

This message has been edited by Mark in Paris on 2015-09-19 13:13:05

I'm in love with my 5550P.

Because, this is also what their watches are made for!

They are indeed companion of every time of the day, when bored, being in a traffic jam, waiting for you train/plane/girlfriend etc...

I imagine your pleasure, thank you for your warm comments and thanks for sharing so we can have a bit of that pelasure of yours.

Cheers, Mark



This message has been edited by Mark in Paris on 2015-04-21 08:57:08

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as I needed a clearer view on what happened concerning that program.

Thanks a lot CH', hope to see you soon.

Cheers, Mark

This message has been edited by jimjenkins on 2015-04-21 10:25:02

It was useful for me too...

Your wrist shot is very nice, you're a happy owner Jim: after the booklet, the watch!

Wear it well  please share more from time to time

Cheers, Mark

... is so important to really appreciate those pieces.

... it is so much part of the pleasure.

I often heard about the Advanced Research program before and saw watches from time to time on forums but was quite lost.

I realize I was missing something

Thanks for the comments Fricks!

Cheers, Mark

This clarifies a lot of the info out there

I needed to put this on paper to have a clearer view on these unique watches.

And you're right, thanks for mentionning: the 5235 is indeed equipped with the Pulsomax (hence, the 3 first elements).

I'll add this to my review

Thank you for your words julian.

Cheers, Mark


This message has been edited by Mark in Paris on 2015-04-21 14:23:33

Thanks for such an informative post on the last 10 years of Patek's Advanced Research.
Regards,
ED-209

No message body This message has been edited by Mark in Paris on 2015-04-22 01:56:32

Hi Mark,

many, many thanks for the summary and for a very enjoyable post about Patek's silicone endeavours.

As you are mentioning it yourself in your section about the hair spring: these parts come out perfectly fitting, always.

That means that these parts do not need any further treatment, adjustment and labour that is coming from man.

I do not think that these parts are justifiable under the traditional way of making watches as they come out perfectly fitting.

However difficult it might be for them to come out in such condition it should still count for the manufacture to put all the effort into it and get a (mass) product that fits ad hoc.

The often mentioned fragility of silicone parts is very relative if you think of the anniversary WT moon phase and its two sapphire glass discs.

Let such a watch drop and the discs turn into star dust (pun intended).

I hope that this technology is only an addition to watchmaking and not the future way to manufacture watches as it would mean the death of traditional watchmaking.

Best

Moritz

Interesting thoughts to read Moritz.

First, thanks a lot for your nice comments, I appreciate them


Concerning your reflection, I've been also asking myself what will be the place of such innovations in the future.

I guess it will remain housed in a very few watches.

It is, for now, quite expensive to craft (raw material is not as available as steel, needing specific tools and know-how etc...).

As you said, I think the brands will keep on being attached to more traditional materials.

They can keep these innovations for the more expensives pieces, showing their mastery in new technologies, the fact they remain a modern brand but they will still insist on saving their traditional DNA which is the vehicule of their legacy (history, collections, historical pieces, metiers d'art...) and hence their real asset.

It is nice to show that "we can" but they will remain, imho, keeping it an exception.

So, my feeling is that traditional materials have a long life expectency in front of them, hence, the movements as we know them today!

Cheers Moritz,

Mark



This message has been edited by Mark in Paris on 2015-04-22 08:08:33

Your summary is showing that it has began at the end of a clockwork and not at the start.

60% of the energy of the main barrel spring is absorbed when it reaches the escapement and my feeling is that this material is not capable to cope with 100%.

Maybe some alternative materials need to be developed that have the same characteristics as silicon.

Cordially

Moritz

And there is no little bit of envy if I am saying it, just admiration.

Hope you want to, I must say and not can, realize your next über-Patek(s).

Regarding the issue of advanced research: let it be the mainstream one day if traditional watchmaking is still a niche for geeks and enthusiasts like all us PuristS. 

Best

Moritz

Hi Kari, I hope I don't disturb you while in the swimming pool.

I have been recognizing myself in how you see your travel through Patek's collection.

I also try to think about what I might "love" (and not only "like") today, and what might the future novelties be like.

This is how I take time to appreciate what I have and what I'm looking for, while staying aside of speculations.

I thought about how nice would be the future 5170P and the Nautilus' 40th anniversary. And even the next version after the 5170...

I feel I'm sure that way to appreciate what I have and what I will purchase in the future.

Cheers, Mark

I am definitly a Patek man too 

and it is very nice reading.

There are so many aspects of Patek watches that talk to watch collectors and that make them be worth making the trip.

In the mean time, I completly understand your thoughts about the "perfect" feeling: I also "like" some watches which are great hit but not necessarly "love" them personally, because of a details here and there which are not 100% to my taste.

Hence, it is even more enjoyable when you can find and focus the one watch that really appeals to you completly.

You are building a very tasteful collection Kari and I'm glad you like to share it here

Cheers, Mark

and that may create another time of turbulence in horology as all the parts can be made to look perfectly hand finished. Thus the brands must innovate even harder to distinguish themselves.  

..."man will always choose the man made product over the machine made" Karl Marx is saying quite correctly (and I am not tired to mention this here).

I have no doubt that it will always be wanted by watch connoisseurs.

You can see it in the pre CNC and CAD produced vintage Pateks that fetch huge, huge sums at auctions.

If I would have the means I would also try to go as far back in time and be as complicated instead buying the modern top tier Pateks.

Best

Moritz

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