TAG Heuer Monaco, 40 Years (Chapter 1)
TAG Heuer Monaco, 40 Years
of Legend
After its scene-stealing debut on Steve McQueen’s wrist in Le Mans, the TAG Heuer Monaco, the square-cased icon of sporting glamour that captured the spirit of an era and changed forever the face of luxury Swiss watchmaking, remains as cool and cutting-edge as ever.
Launched simultaneously in Geneva and New York on March 3rd, 1969, the Monaco caught the watchmaking world by storm. The provocative look of the timepiece, with its fire-red chronograph hand, metallic blue dial, domed crystal, and big, squared-off case represented a complete break with the conventional codes of watch design aesthetics. Equally radical was the engineering required to ensure the chronograph’s perfect water-resistance — a world first for a square-shaped timepiece. But what was ticking inside was even more revolutionary: the famous self-winding Chronomatic “Calibre 11”, the first self-winding automatic chronograph movement with microrotor, so precise it rivals to this day the exacting standards of professional chronometer instruments.
For Le Mans, Steve McQueen’s source of inspiration was his friend, Jo Siffert, the Swiss racecar legend who in 1969 became the first-ever driver sponsored by a watch brand, Heuer. The Heuer Monaco had just been launched and so impressed McQueen that he insisted on wearing it in the film. The Monaco became the preferred chronograph of the racing and fashion world — another world first. Its unique, uncompromising geometry started a trend toward “shaped” watches. Instantly recognizable, often copied, never equaled, the “McQueen Monaco” (Model 1133B) is one of the most highly prized pieces in the international vintage markets. Demand far exceeds supply — only a handful is known to still exist, all in the hands of well-informed collectors.
Ever since, the Monaco's emblematic square-shaped dial has been synonymous with TAG Heuer's innovative aesthetic. Reissued in 1998 in a limited edition of 5,000, it was entirely redesigned in 2003, refitted with a 7-row steel bracelet of square links echoing the daring aesthetics of the case. The watch became a must-have among racing purists and collectors, but it also surprised the industry by becoming the huge breakout fashion hit of the year, adored by haute couture and Hollywood.
The
re-interpretations that followed were even more revolutionary.
The star of Baselworld 2003, the TAG Heuer Monaco Sixty Nine Concept Watch, was presented as the first Swiss wrist-worn mechanical watch combined with a 1/1000th of a second chronograph. The brand's first reversible, mechanical/digital watch is a daring timepiece that brings together traditional and cutting-edge in a way never seen before. On one side, the iconic, uncompromising face of Steve McQueen's favourite watch; on the other, the distinctive, high-tech digital face of the Microtimer, the first prestigious Swiss wrist -worn chronograph accurate to 1/1000th of a second. Two TAG Heuer watches-one for ultimate precision, the other for unmatchable Steve McQueen-vintage flair -in one extraordinary wristwatch.
Presented during Baselworld 2004, the Monaco V4 represents a stunning technological breakthrough. At its heart is an advanced integrated mechanical movement, encased upside down in a high-design evolution of the classic square-faced Monaco. The name V4 derives from the movement's four barrels, which are mounted in a V shape, like cylinders in a supercharged motor-racing engine. The name also pays tribute to the movement's inspiration: while the V4 draws from the newest concepts in industrial technology, its true muse, like the original Monaco's, is the world of high-tech, high-performance racecar engines.
THE MONACO WATCH GRANDE DATE
The next addition to the must-have line, with a 37mm polished stainless steel case, TAG Heuer Grande Date movement, two dials in black and blue/silver, with a small second counter at 6 o’clock and diamond-shaped hands tipped in superluminova, all under curved sapphire crystal. Compellingly designed and crafted, with its elegant alligator strap and clean, architectural lines inspired by the Monaco V4 case, this watch is resolutely modern.
All the classic Monaco attributes are there but softened by the charm of white leather, or brown or black python. The case is set off by 26 diamonds accentuating the bezel’s right angles, and the dial with a further 13 diamonds. As energetic as the original but with exquisite harmonies of tone, material, and texture for further heighten the emotive force.
To celebrate the MONACO’s 40th anniversary, TAG Heuer is proud to present a new collection of Classic Chronograph fitted with a TAG Heuer “Calibre 12” automatic movement, heritage of the original “Calibre 11”.
Directly inspired by the original design, these chronographs adorn a sapphire crystal glass and a case back allowed to see the beat of the “Caliber 12”.
Standout features include a dark blue alligator strap and stylish silver and blue dial with red hands. The new, fashion-forward animation on the chronograph dial is completely in line with the line’s iconic heritage.
1969-2009: To
commemorate this historic anniversary, TAG Heuer has proudly republished this
iconic blue-dial timepiece in a limited series of 1,000 pieces with an exclusive
case back signed by Jack Heuer and engraved in honour of its mythical ambassador
Steve McQueen. Outfitted with the Calibre 11 movement, its other classic
features include pushbuttons at 2 and 4 o’clock, crown at 9, counters at 9 and
3, hand-applied date window at 6 o’clock, and diamond-tipped horizontal hours
indexes.
This message has been edited by Kong on 2009-02-19 20:00:02
New MONACO Calibre 11 Chronograph - 40th Anniversary Limited Edition
New MONACO 40th Anniversary Re-Edition
Automatic Calibre 11 Chronograph
Limited Edition 1000 piece
A stunning tribute to the “McQueen Monaco” as seen in the film classic Le Mans: left-side crown, vintage blue dial, red hands and indexes, silver sub-dials at 3 and 9, vintage “HEUER” logo at 12. The 38 mm case in 316L stainless steel is engraved on the back with “Steve McQueen” and signed “ Jack Heuer.” The sapphire crystal is water-resistant to 50 meters. Two straps options: the original in black perforated leather or a new offer in elegant blue alligator. Limited edition of 1,000, each delivered with a special commemorative case in the series’ distinctive colors.
Movement
TAG Heuer Calibre 11 Automatic Chronograph
- Indicating the small second at 3 o’clock and chronograph minute at 9 o’clock – date at 6 o’clock
Original Blue dial
- 2 silver counters at 3 and 9 o’clock
- Diamonded red lines minute and hour hands, with luminescent markers and red second hand
- Horizontal and hand-applied indexes
- “MONACO” + “AUTOMATIC CHRONOGRAPH” + “SWISS MADE” lettering
- Monochrome HEUER logo
- Date window at 6 o’clock, enhanced by a sticker
Case
Case diameter:38 mm
- Fine brushed stainless steel
- Anti-reflective double-sided treatment on the curved sapphire crystal glass to ensure the best readability
- Crown at 9 o’clock
- Polished stainless steel push buttons·
- Case back signed by Jack Heuer·
- Case back engraved “in tribute to Steve McQueen”
- Water resistance: 50 meters
Strap
Provided with two straps:
- a punched calfskin
- a blue alligator one
* Special box with 2 straps
* Limited Edition Steve McQueen Book offered with the watch
This message has been edited by Kong on 2009-02-19 06:34:37
New MONACO Calibre 12 Chronograph
The 40th Anniversary edition of the revolutionary Monaco Chronograph: blue or black dial with sub-dials at 3 and 9, 39mm square case in 316L stainless steel, and a stylish alligator strap. Steve McQueen’s Le Mans watch completely re-engineered — with the beating heart of the all-new, high-performance Calibre 12 movement visible through the sapphire crystal caseback — yet faithful to the groundbreaking aesthetics of the original. A celebratory icon of Swiss watchmaking tradition at its most avant-garde.
Movement
TAG Heuer Calibre 12 Automatic Chronograph
- Indicating the small second at 3 o’clock and chronograph minute at 9 o’clock – date at 6 o’clock
Dial
All design inspired by Steve McQueen’s & his Porsche 917K in “Le Mans” in 1970
- 2 sub-counters at 3 and 9 o’clock- small second at 3 o’clock - minute at 9 o’clock
- Faceted polished rhodium plated minute and hour hands, with luminescent markers
- Horizontal and hand-applied indexes
- “MONACO” + “AUTOMATIC CHRONOGRAPH” + “Calibre 12” “SWISS MADE” lettering
- Monochrome TAG Heuer logo
- Date window at 6 o’clock
Case
Case Size 39 mm (versus 38 mm for previous references)
- Anti-reflective double-sided treatment on the curved sapphire crystal glass to ensure the best readability
- Sapphire case back
- Crown at 9 o’clock
- Polished stainless steel push buttons
- Water resistance: 100 meters
Strap
Black alligator or Blue alligator
- Folding buckle with safety pushbuttons
Something about Monaco
Questions & Answers to Jack HEUER, Honorary Chairman of TAG Heuer
1. What was the inspiration for the Monaco?
It was closely related to the most important product launch in my life — the first automatic chronograph, which was unveiled on March 3rd, 1969.
In preparation for this major announcement, we decided to not only bring out one single model but a full range to satisfy all of our client segments. We knew we needed a Carrera model and decided also on the Autavia, a bit heavier with a turning bezel, for our automotive and aviation public. But then we also saw a need for a completely new design in chronographs.
All our chronographs in the 60s were water-resistant. Up until then all our watches had been round, due to the lack of water-resistance in square or barrel-type cases. Then a case maker, Piquerez, showed us his new waterproofing system for square cases, the one with the four notches that clip into the back of the case and, through tension, creates water resistance. This was an entirely new, patented and innovative technique, and so we negotiated with Piquerez for exclusivity on all chronograph applications. We knew it would be an avant-garde design, but it was not only the first square automatic chronograph, it’s also one of the first water-resistant square watches.
2. How did Steve McQueen come to wear a Monaco?
Heuer watches were worn by Jo Siffert, a Swiss Le Mans and Formula 1 driver who became our first official ambassador. For the Porsche 917 driving scenes, McQueen wanted to remain as faithful as possible to the race driver’s universe, so he insisted that the film’s accessories department procure him Jo Siffert’s complete driving suit, which, of course, had to include a Heuer chronograph. The Monaco’s starring role on the actor’s wrist helped create its legend, but it was the chronograph’s radical look and its complete break with tradition both inside and outside the case that made it stand out from the pack.
3. Why is it called Monaco?
This new model was really quite avant-garde and we needed a name that would appeal to a chic, high-end target public, the kind of public who frequents places like Monte Carlo, which, in those Grace Kelly years, was extremely fashionable. However, we had already developed the Monte Carlo watch (the famous dashboard stopwatch) with the jumping 12-hour disc, so we decided to create the Monaco, which would attract an elite public.
4. What do you
personally like about the Monaco?
When we
launched the Monaco, we were quite anxious because
it was such a daring new look! However, since it was part of a trio, most of our
retail clients bought all three models, which gave it good exposure immediately.
It was bought by architects and actors, and of course the fact that Steve
McQueen was very clearly shown wearing it in the film Le Mans, gave it a glamorous as well as
a rebellious image. In other words, we reached the public we had hoped for!
Personally, I like its strong, unusual look — it sort of fits our corporate
philosophy of following a different path from our
peers.
5. You created the Monaco close to 40 years ago and later revived it in the TAG Heuer collection. Now it is one of the most popular series. What do you think and feel about it?
Traditionally, chronograph designs have always been and still are round designs. So, using a totally new shape that still allows full use of chronograph features is very much in line with the “TAG Heuer Swiss Avant-Garde since 1860” motto. I am rather proud that we had the courage so many years ago to launch such a revolutionary piece. It has caught on in such an amazing way with today’s public and its shape and design are still fully up to date with our clientele’s taste. The Monaco’s resolutely geometrical model helped usher in the big comeback of special-shape watches.
Questions & Answers to Jean-Christophe BABIN, President and CEO of TAG Heuer
1. What is the most unique feature of the Monaco?
There are many features in the Monaco series. Invented in 1969, the Monaco is an historical TAG Heuer icon: the first chronograph with a water-resistant square case equipped with a Chronomatic Calibre 11, the world’s first automatic chronograph movement with a microrotor. This is no longer a novel feature but at that time the rather unusual solution of putting an automatic chronograph movement into a square case was totally avant-garde.
2. What kind of people do you target with this watch?
Initially, watch collectors and connoisseurs as well as high-profile celebrities. This watch is for purists and lovers of strong, disruptive design. The Monaco is a contemporary square watch that has become a fashion icon and Hollywood favorite. It looks as cool today on the wrist of TAG Heuer Brand Ambassadors as it did on Steve McQueen’s in 1969.
3. Why, in your opinion, is the Monaco still so trendsetting and attractive ?
First, the
Monaco’s unique shape is a departure
from watchmaking design tradition. Secondly, I think the Monaco series
works very well because people are conscious of where we come from — motor
racing and sports timing. They understand that our DNA is unique; and this makes
the Monaco stronger. It epitomizes TAG Heuer’s innovative DNA and forces us to
reach new creative heights. Alone in its field, the Monaco remains
the one and only true square-faced icon of sports and glamour. Today, it has
lost none of its originality and still embodies the avant-garde spirit that
inspires TAG Heuer. The Monaco has been imitated and,
frankly, copied, but never matched!
4. What do you personally like about the Monaco?
The Monaco is classical and contemporary, sporty and chic. It truly exemplifies TAG Heuer’s DNA and values. It has become, in my view, one of the most stunningly beautiful and functional chronographs ever designed. This is THE classic of all TAG Heuer watches.
5. Could you talk about the evolution of the Monaco?
The Monaco’s emblematic square-shaped case has been synonymous with TAG Heuer’s innovative aesthetic from the moment it was introduced. The design of the first classic relaunch in 1998 used the exact replica of the original case. Since then, the case design has been incrementally improved; for instance, it is now fitted with a sapphire crystal and some of the sharp edges have been slightly softened. In fine-tuning the case we’ve been able to make substantial improvements to the original: the case shape is now considerably reduced in size and volume, making the case even handsomer. In 2003, the chronograph was re-engineered again; this time, refitted with a steel bracelet made up of seven rows of square, beveled links echoing the daring aesthetics of the case. In 2005, the Monaco Vintage Limited Edition was introduced to commemorate Steve McQueen’s 75th birthday. With its blue and black dials it was a trendsetting favorite. The re-interpretations that followed — the Monaco V4, for example — were even more revolutionary.
And we have some nice surprises coming up with regards to the Monaco. Wait till you see what we have in store for you at Baselworld 2009 in April!
6. Can you explain why you chose the Monaco series for the V4? How will the Monaco V4 influence TAG Heuer as a brand in the future?
It made perfect sense to build on the Monaco’s groundbreaking heritage as a way to encapsulate TAG Heuer’s continuing quest to push outside the dotted lines of conventional watchmaking. I love the Monaco V4 and the fact that it was an icon we were working on. The Monaco is legendary, a watch we didn’t dare make any changes to for years. It is testament to our brand’s pioneering instincts and aesthetics that we continue to produce revolutionary new ideas and build them into products we love. With the Monaco V4 watch, TAG Heuer is attempting to rethink, re-engineer and re-invent the mechanical watch movement. It is the perfect example of TAG Heuer’s commitment to innovation. As for TAG Heuer’s future, my motto is: Let’s take the best from the past and add the best from today and see where it takes us!
This message has been edited by Kong on 2009-02-19 10:17:09