ZENITH El Primero collection - Chronomaster 1969 & Chronomaster Open Grande Date Moon & Sunphase
Zenith - El Primero CHRONOMASTER 1969 & Chronomaster Open Grande Date Moon & Sunphase, Two Iconic Signatures For A Legendary Watch
EL PRIMERO CHRONOMASTER 1969
The new El Primero Chronomaster 1969 chronograph is a concentrated blend of Zenith's genetic heritage: the historical colours of the first El Primero chronograph are associated for the first time with the emblematic dial opening revealing the beating heart of the movement – the signature of the Manufacture Zenith. An authentic summary of the brand DNA.
Zenith made its mark on watchmaking history by presenting the first integrated automatic chronograph movement in 1969. The world's most accurate mechanical series-made caliber - beating at a frequency of 10 vibrations per second and thus capable of measuring 1/10ths of a second – gave rise to the legendary El Primero chronograph. The unprecedented mechanical accomplishment was not the only distinguishing element of the chronograph presented over 40 years ago by the Manufacture Zenith. In 1969, when the trend strongly favoured monochrome dials, the El Primero model also stood out by its multi-hued dial featuring three counters in different colours and a red sweep seconds chronograph hand for enhanced readability. Having lost nothing of their effectiveness, these same colour codes are highlighted on the new El Primero Chronomaster 1969 chronograph: the two 30-minute and 12-hour counters at 3 and 6 o'clock respectively feature the same colours as the original 1969 El Primero model: midnight blue for the former and anthracite for the latter.
The dial opening revealing the beating heart of an exceptional movement is another characteristic Zenith innovation. This signature which has become inseparable from the brand with the star logo is now associated for the first time with the colour codes of the original 1969 chronograph. Above and beyond the aesthetic effect, further reinforced by the silver-toned inner bezel ring secured by three blued screws, this opening provides fascinating glimpses of the perfectly synchronised beating and the magic of the gear trains of what is now unanimously regarded as "the world's best series-produced movement". To achieve optimal visibility of this heart in motion, the Zenith movement design engineers and watchmakers have entirely rethought the construction of the calibre and shifted the regulating organ – and its 10 vibrations per second – to 10 o'clock, on the periphery of the movement.
NEW El PrimEro moVEmENT
This Chronomaster 1969 model houses a new automatic chronograph movement entirely developed, fine-tuned and produced in-house, El Primero Calibre 4061. Like all El Primero movements, it beats at the exceptional frequency of 10 vibrations per second (or 36,000 vibrations per hour) and can thereby measure 1/10ths of a second. This new chronograph movement with an approximately 50-hour power reserve comprises 282 parts and features meticulous finishes, visible in particular through the famous dial opening. The new El Primero Chornomaster 1969 displays the hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o'clock, as well as the chronograph function with a central sweep seconds hand along with 30-minute and 12-hour counters at 3 and 6 o'clock respectively.
The new El Primero Chronomaster 1969 chronograph comes with a 42 mm-diameter steel case that is water-resistant to 100 metres and equipped with vintage-style round pushbuttons. It is available on a black alligator leather strap complete with steel buckle.
· OPENING REVEALING THE LEGENDARY BEATING HEART OF THE El PrimEro moVEmENT
· AUTOMATIC COLUMN- WHEEL EL PRIMERO CHRONOGRAPH
· 42 MM CASE DIAMETER
TECHNICAL DATA
MOveMent
El Primero 4061, automatic
Calibre : 13¼ ``` (Diameter: 30 mm)
Thickness : 6.60 mm
Components : 282
Jewels : 31
Frequency : 36,000 VpH – (5 Hz)
Power reserve : min. 50 hours
Finishings: Oscillating weight with "Côtes de Genève" pattern.
FunctiOns
Hours and minutes in the centre
Small seconds at 9 o'clock
2-counter chronograph :
– Central chronograph hand
– 30-minute counter at 3 o'clock
– 12-hour counter at 6 o'clock
case, DiaL & hanDs
Material: Stainless steel
Diameter: 42 mm
Diameter opening: 37.10 mm
Crystal : Box-shaped sapphire crystal with anti-reflection treatment on both sides
Case-back: Transparent sapphire crystal
Water-resistance: 10 ATM
Dial: Silver sunray with 2 coloured counters
Hour-markers: Rhodium with SuperLuminova SLN C1, faceted
Hands: Rhodium with SuperLuminova SLN C1, faceted
stRaP & BuckLes
Alligator leather strap with protective rubber lining
black alligator leather
Ref. : 27.00.2118.496
Stainless steel buckles
Stainless steel pin buckle
Ref. : 27.01.0018.008
Stainless steel triple folding clasp (optional)
Ref. : 27.03.0138.940
eL PRiMeRO CHroNomASTEr oPEN GRANDE DATE MOON & SUNPHASE
The name El Primero alone is enough to evoke its exceptional chronographic performances, yet this model goes well beyond this capability by offering various useful complications, including a poetic and exclusive display of the moon and sun phases. The new El Primero Chronomaster Open Grande Date Moon & Sunphase is available in two versions with a case in rose gold or steel.
AN ALLIANCE OF USEFUL COMPLICATIONS
Since the advent of the first automatic integrated chronograph launched by Zenith in 1969, the famous collection of El Primero calibres has constantly evolved, while jealously safeguarding its distinctive frequency of 10 vibrations per second (36,000 vibrations per hour), which makes this the only movement capable of measuring and displaying 1/10ths of a second. Over the more than 40 years since their introduction, the precision and reliability of the El Primero chronographs have earned them truly legendary status.
In 2012, the Manufacture Zenith is further enriching this major collection by unveiling the El Primero Chronomaster Open Grande Date Moon & Sunphase model in two new rose gold and steel versions. In addition to the chronograph which, like all El Primero movements, measures 1/10ths of a second, Calibre 4047 also indicates the hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o'clock, large date at 2 o'clock – by means of two concentric discs – as well as displaying the moon and sunphases at 6 o'clock. The latter is a useful and poetic complication specific to Zenith, portrayed by an indication reflecting the double path of the sun and moon by means of two superimposed discs. The transparent upper disc with two polished metallic moons performs one rotation every 59 days, while the lower day/night disc makes one full turn every 24 hours. The El Primero Calibre 4047 comprises 332 parts serving to display this range of useful complications.
THE OPEN DIAL, A ZENITH SIGNATURE
To display these celestial movements at 6 o'clock and the days passing through the large date aperture at 2 o'clock, Zenith has created a dial with a sunburst motif radiating from the centre (silver-toned or black according to the versions), along with circular satin-brushed chapter-ring zone and counter zone at 3 o'clock, while the sun and moon aperture at 6 o'clock is sunburst guilloché-worked on its lower section. Representing the emblematic signature of the Manufacture Zenith, the dial opening onto the beating heart of the movement reveals the regulating organ and its high-frequency vibrations, as well as the meticulous finishing adorning the entirety of this exceptional movement. Available in rose gold or steel versions with a silver-toned or black dial, the El Primero Chronomaster Open Grande Date Moon & Sunphase features a generous 45 mm-diameter case equipped with round vintage-style pushbuttons and water-resistant to 50 metres. It is fitted with a brown (for the rose gold version) or black (steel version) alligator leather strap with matching metal buckle.
· OPENING REVEALING THE LEGENDARY BEATING HEART OF THE El PrimEro moVEmENT
· AUTOMATIC COLUMN-WHEEL EL PRIMERO CHRONOGRAPH WITH MOON & SUNPHASE INDICATOR
· 45 MM CASE DIAMETER
TECHNICAL DATA
MOveMent
El Primero 4047, automatic
Calibre : 13½ ``` (Diameter: 30.50 mm)
Thickness : 9.05 mm
Components : 332
Jewels : 41
Frequency : 36,000 VpH – (5 Hz)
Power reserve : min. 50 hours
Finishings : Oscillating weight with "Côtes de Genève" pattern.
FunctiOns
Hours and minutes in the centre
Small seconds hand at 9 o'clock
Chronograph :
– Central seconds hand
– 30-minute counter at 3 o'clock
Grande Date at 2 o'clock
Moon & Sunphase indicator at 6 o'clock
BOîtieR, caDRan et aiguiLLes
Material : 18-carat rose gold or stainless steel
Diameter: 45 mm
Diameter opening: 38.5 mm
Crystal : Box-shaped sapphire crystal with anti-reflection treatment on both sides
Case-back: Transparent sapphire crystal
Water-resistance: 5 ATM
Dial: Silver or black sunray
Hour-markers: Rhodium with SuperLuminova SLN C1 faceted (with or without gold plating)
Hands: Rhodium with SuperLuminova SLN C1 faceted (with or without gold plating)
stRaP & BuckLes
Alligator leather strap with protective rubber lining
brown alligator leather
Ref. : 27.00.2218.713
black alligator leather
Ref. : 27.00.2218.714
Buckles
Ref. : 27.17.0018.008
18-carat rose gold pin buckle
Ref. : 27.03.0138.940
Stainless steel
Ref. : 27.17.003.940
18-carat rose gold triple folding clasp (optional)
A BROADER COLLECTION ENCOMPASSING HIGH PRECISION AND PRECIOUS ELEGANCE
At the heart of the Zenith collections, the El Primero Chronomaster Open line offers a vast palette of models, all identifiable by their dial revealing the beating heart of the legendary chronograph movement. A broad range of complications is available in 42 or 45 mm-diameter cases made of platinum, rose gold or steel, with grey, silver-toned or black dials, and fitted with alligator leather straps or steel bracelets. The latest El Primero Chronomaster Open model by Zenith eloquently demonstrates that the most accomplished technical feats can be matched by the most graceful elegance. El Primero, the legendary chronograph movement launched by Zenith in 1969, is housed in a rose gold or steel case framing a dial in shimmering white mother-of-pearl enhanced by 21 diamonds. In keeping with the identity codes of the El Primero Chronomaster collection, this new model features a 42 mm-diameter case with round vintagestyle pushbuttons and water-resistant to 100 metres.
Press Release
uhhhm
Are these models that were left over from a few years ago and Z thought it could unload some inventory now that it built up some good will? A harsh thought, but actually what sprung to my mind.
I prefer that the brand keep returning to its roots and innovate in less superficial ways (literally, I mean open dials are lame or not new or not exciting or all of the above).
Last year was great and I hope to see more built on that momentum. Positive thoughts, but honest feedback. My first watch was a zenith 12 years ago. I have a lot of love, but am hoping for more.
Wow, what a mess....
According to the past year's collection I didnt see this coming...
Overlapping Subdials...
I feel the overlapping subdials are a must given the large dial & small movement
If Zenith designed the dial to not have overlapping dials, the subdials would be extremely small in diameter. As a result, the subdials would make the symmetry of the dial very atrocious IMO.
There's no way to avoid the overlapping dials on these Zenith watches unless Zenith uses a much larger size movement.
Cheers,
Anthony
Perhaps
Design over function
I love the historical colours and dial architecture and the combined moon and sun phase is a nice and unusual complication, but Zenith persists in partially obscuring the chronograph minutes register. They emphasise the ability to accurately measure and display elapsed time to one tenth of a second with their classic El Primero escapement, but they can’t accurately show elapsed minutes! This occurs for a total of 5 minutes, between 17 and 21 minutes on the 30 minute chronograph minutes register at 3 o’clock. Doesn’t anyone at Zenith use their chronographs or read the feedback? And they could get around the issue by overlapping the hour counter rather than the minutes as this would still be readable. For one model it was a mistake, but to repeat it is a disappointment.
Andrew
My slightly frustrated thoughts
I would imagine that these aren't the only 2012 releases. More should be on the way for Baselworld. The ChronoMaster 1969 is nice, except of course for their weird overlap. It looks like, not sure though it could be perspective, the seconds ring overlaps the hour subdial a bit which in turn overlaps the minute subdial. Strange. While overlaps are part of Zeniths history, they used to be handled more intelligently: the hours subdial, the less significant one, was the overlapped one. Nataf managed to design his models without overlap. It is doable. Dufour is being awfully stubborn here. He has to know that his overlap is nonsensical.
The Sun & Moonphase I expected at some point. They are putting all their movements in the 36kvph design line, which I personally don't find all that compelling to begin with. It doesn't look all that bad for a Dufour design. I don't know if anyone had the same reaction but it looks strange to me not to see "El Primero" beneath "Zenith". I love the movement and functions and it does look better than the model they had last year/two years ago, which was a closed version of Nataf's design. But Nataf's design of the Sun&Moonphase remains superior to both of Dufour's in every regard, it's gorgeous, perfect. In general, the classic ChronoMaster design is a beauty and it's puzzling to me that Dufour killed it altogether as if it were toxic. They are calling these new models ChronoMaster even though they have nothing to do with the ChronoMaster design. Why aren't they calling them 36000vph since that's what they really are design-wise. It's a silly name no doubt, but Dufour has got to figure out what he wants to do with the different lines at some point and be more consistent. It's been a couple of years now, and he talks about tradition and history yet treats the brand as if he's just inventing it now, unable to maintain continuity and identity of the brand.
Well, folks, I've read thru all the comments . . .
It's quite clear, a full year after the inauguration of this forum, that the bête noire of the community resides in the overlapping sub-dials of many triple-register El Primero models. At its core, the EP is a high-performance movement, and it's not unreasonable to expect a commensurate level of functionality that can take full advantage of its virtues. Beyond the personally resonant aesthetic considerations of the New Vintage 1969, one of the reasons for adding it to my collection . . .
. . . is that its dial design is purely functional. While it's correct to say that the EP movement is diminutive when compared to a larger case, there is one current model, the Captain, that . . .
pg. . . skirts around the dilemma by printing the hours register directly on the dial, avoiding the necessity for a comparably sized sub-dial.
The issue of a divergence between form and function is complicated by the introduction of smaller models last year, as their 38 mm cases should be able to support discrete sub-dials . . .
pg. . . but have, instead, sub-dials consistent with the rest of the similarly-styled line. To underscore the point, the Captain Winsor annual calendar model has a minutes counter . . .
pg. . . that overlaps the constantly running seconds sub-dial, contrary to the design of the Captain EP.
The point I'm trying to make is that the dichotomy between form and function with regards to current EP dial design is likely driven by a desire for aesthetic consistency. This is an arguable point, as I'm more than willing to concede, but before leveling criticism, I hope we're all taking into account the virtues and limitations of the EP movement in its current state of development. The trend to larger watches undoubtedly drove Zenith to increase the scale of their designs; had they redesigned the base EP movement, there's little doubt in my mind that their costs, and consequently our list prices, would have been driven upwards as well.
Cordially,
Art
Recalling the Nataf-Era designs...
I'd guess that the Defy Xtreme series was poorly received because the watches were a bit over-designed AND legibility of the chrono-seconds hand was sacrificed for embarrassingly superfluous text on the dial. Had the watches been perfectly-legible, I think that the community here would have begrudgingly respected that particular model line. I think the three thematic flaws of the bad Nataf-era designs were (i) unrealistic MRSPs (ii) over-the-top design (iii) lack of legibility. Some of the Nataf-era designs were quite good, but I think that might have been overlooked in favour of a complete relaunch of the catalog. It would also appear that design flaw (iii) is being overlooked in order to ensure aesthetic balance. I understand the need to keep case diameter in the 42 - 44 mm range, but I think legibility is even more important, in keeping with Zenith's brand DNA.
My thought is that the overlapping sub-dial flaw is unlikely to show up in the AD and boutique sale figures, as it is not the sort of flaw that is noticed immediately. I propose the possibility that this design flaw will dampen the owner's enthusiasm for the piece once the "new watch phase" is over, which may dampen enthusiasm for the brand when it comes time to consider purchasing a second Zenith. One can make the counter-argument that size counts more than legibility (such that the Neo-Vintage diameter is too small for contemporary tastes), so it's worth debating until internal sales figures bear out a result.
Interesting points
While Dufour settled for a "reasonable" size of 42mm, he complicated things unnecesarily by removing the bezel and making his watches all-dial. So while Nataf's Zeniths were 45, 46.5mm he could get away with it by designing large bezels have having smaller dial openings. Of course the solution to avoid overlap is obvious- smaller hour subdial (as in the current Captain Chronos) or replace it with RDM scale. Most of us I think wouldn't object to an overlap done right and in line with Zenith's history: seconds and minute subdials cover hour subdials, not the other way around. Moreover, what bugs me additionally is the lack of individual seconds markings in the subdial and exaggerated divisions in the hour subdial, where 30 minute markings are sufficient, instead now they have some with bizarre 12 minute indexes. Another easy solution, reduce the size of all three subdials. The current designs, show the subdials with an outer thick ring which causes the overlap. Remove the extended ring and the subdials are very close, they could even be enlarged a bit and there would be no overlap. That would be the preferred solution for me. I think the overlap may keep customers away with an eye for details, while those looking at the bigger picture won't care.
In regards to the Defy line, I believe those were pretty succesful for Zenith at the time. If I recall correctly Nataf said that they accounted for 1/3 of sales. Forum communities tend to be fairly conservative and don't like all-black watches, and non-traditional elements like turbines and the like on their watches. The Defys were over-the-top. That was the whole point of that line. Nataf was trying to put the brand on the map after years of neglect. And he increased the models offered so that Zenith could have something for everyone. The Defy wasn't meant to appeal to conservative tastes.
Sure it's noticed
Deep disappointed ...
a) Open dial.
b) Overlapping sub dials
If they keep going on that direction, Zenith will be "a company that could".
Zenith should follow the 2011 line with:
a) A movement (El Primero) that "hacks". What is the point to have a precise watch that one cannot properly set the time?
b) More reeditions (Did they know the Deluca line?).
Sorry,
Nilo
More will come at Baselworld...
Fx