Zenith

Team,


Other day, I was updating a spreadsheet that I use to control my small collection and I notice that my El Primero New Vintage 1969 was about to celebrate its first anniversary and I decide to create this post describing the experience of having it with on my wrist for an entire year.

Let’s see what I could find, after 315,360,000 beats (365 days x 24 hours x 36,000 bph) of this watch. Yes, I’m using the US number notation and it represents 315 millions of beats!

Introduction

This watch was released by Zenith in 2009 to commemorate the first 40 years of the El Primero.

The original version, A384, was released in 1969.




(Picture from the Internet)

The re edition was made in three versions: steel, titanium and gold.




(Picture from the Internet)

My first exposure to this watch was here at the PuristSPro.

I was immediately attracted by the style with angular lines, the colored dial and hands and by the well deserved homage to a movement that I truly admire.

It’s unnecessary to praise the Zenith El Primero family of movements that, for more than 44 years demonstrated its unrivaled qualities that stands after all those years.

The year of 1969

For sure, 1969 was a very unusual year for humankind, full of events that helped to shape our future.

Here are a few of those events.

On music:

• Led Zeppelin's first album is released
• Johnny Cash performs "A Boy Named Sue" at California's San Quentin State Prison
• The first complete performance of The Who's rock opera Tommy during a performance in Dolton, Devon, UK
• Sly & the Family Stone release their breakthrough album, Stand!
• The Woodstock Music and Art Festival is held near Woodstock, New York
• Elvis Presley hits No. 1 on the Billboard chart with "Suspicious Minds"
• The Jackson 5 release their debut album

On technology:

• The Boeing 747 makes its maiden flight
• The first Concorde test flight is conducted
• Apollo 11 (Neil Armstrong, Buzz Aldrin, Michael Collins) goes to the Moon
• The first ARPANET link is established (the progenitor of the global Internet)
• Seymour Cray develops the CDC 7600, the first supercomputer
• Gary Starkweather invents the laser printer whilst working with Xerox

On horology:

• Three sets of vendors: Seiko, a joint venture between Heuer, Buren, Hamilton, Breitling and Dubois-Depraz and Zenith released the first automatic chronograph (Zenith did a press conference showing the El Primero in January).
• Quick note: The name “El Primero” was selected by Zenith, from the Spanish meaning “The First”. There are several places over the Internet that claims that “El Primero” is Esperanto. No way. If it was “The First” in Esperanto the name should be “Unua”, according to my sources (Google translate).
• In December, Seiko unveiled the quartz Astron, the world's first quartz watch that few years after precipitated the so called “quartz crisis”.

So, this is a very small sample of what was the year of 1969.

Let’s go back to my watch.

A small recap

This 2009 New Vintage follows the original design of the A384 model (and many others) that is built using sharp angles on a “tonneau case”.

The New Vintage is little bigger, by 2mm, than the original A384. I believe that Zenith considered the original A384 dimensions (38mm, 19mm of lug space) too small for this re edition and I agree.

I had access to an original one and I confirm that is too small for today’s standards.





Many complain, and I also agree, is the fact that the enlargement of the case prompted Zenith to use overlapped sub dials.
This overlap disturbs the original sub dial balance and makes some time measurements more complex.

The fact is that, after a few days on the wrist that I really don’t care.

Zenith maintained the date at 4:30, where it should be.





Dimensions and other metrics

• Case Size:            40mm (without the crown) x 44mm (including lugs)
• Case Thickness:  14 mm
• Water-resistance: 50 m / 5 ATM

Quality / Movement

My watch was tested on a time machine, as I usually do, when new and after one year and the overall parameters are exact the same (+2, -1 seconds/day).

This demonstrates the excellence of the El Primero design and shows that Zenith quality control is doing a good job.

It should be noted that this watch was made in 2009 and all measurable parameters (amplitude, beat error etc.) were in fine shape and it continued to beat strong.

The movement, which seems to me like a regular El Primero caliber 400Z but on this model, got the number of 469, to celebrate the 1969. It works as any other El Primero that I owned or own.

The word “perfect” is not enough to describe this glorious movement.

I admire how something that was designed without computers resists the test of time. It works and works and works.

Another factor that I like on this movement is the 50 hours power reserve. This power reserve allows me to wear another watch for a day and just grab it from the box and its correct, working as it should.





On the wrist

Initially I was concerned about the domed sapphire crystal associated with the lack of a protection bezel that could suffer some scratches. As of now, this didn’t happen (double knock on the wood).

Amazes me the fact that, after wearing it on a very frequent basis, that I cannot locate any visible scratches on the case.

The watch sits very well on my wrist and is one of the most comfortable watches that I regularly wear. Even the sapphire case back, that on a hot and wet weather (normal here) disturbs me a little, do not “glue” on my wrist.

The standard 20mm lug space gives to me the opportunity to try many strap options. So far I don’t have any preference and I swap straps on a regular basis.

For the summer season, I prefer to use a synthetic strap but most of time I wear it on leather.




(This is the first picture that I took from this watch, on the day it arrived)





(Looks good on our garden)





(100% approved by Noel on his standard bite test)

The Chronograph

Even considering that the El Primero beats at 36000 bph, allowing measurements of 1/10s (100ms), this is more a theoretical approach.
Human response time sits around 150-300ms and based on that, I consider this more as a nice marketing feature that is impossible to use.

The El Primero follows the classic approach to chronograph (column wheel, horizontal coupling) and, the words from my senior watchmaker; “there is nothing there to add or to remove”.

My only complain about this classical design is the annoying jump of the chronograph hand that happens from time to time, when the chronograph is activated.

The chronograph pushers are firm and produce a pleasant “click” when the pusher is activated. I know several other chronograph movements that have a more soft activation but the El Primero gives me a better tactile feedback of the activation.

I seldom use the chronograph, except to time pasta (my family originated from the north of Italy) and when brewing tea. In any case I’m hooked on chronographs and I know that I can count on it.





Pros

I love this watch, it’s an El Primero. No need to say anything more.




(I love the multiple colors on the dial and hands)

Cons

The original strap (way too stiff) and the buckle (with the star on it) are not up to the watch.

Nothing that is dramatically bad but, as I stated before, I replaced the strap and the buckle (with one with the star stamped).

Summary

Why I acquired this watch?

Because it represents 44+ years of a manufacture that has a long history behind and produces pieces that I learn to trust.

Add to this the fact that my watchmaker team loves this movement and they feel grateful when it’s time to maintain any one of my El Primero watches.

It’s a solid keeper, IMHO.

Value for the money?

Yes, it values every single penny that I paid on it and I consider a great value for the money.

Rarity

Zenith made only 500 pieces of this model (SS), 250 of the Ti version (that I also own). It’s not hard to locate one on the secondary market. I have no information about the availability on a Zenith A.D.

Conclusion

I’m a firm believer that the watch industry, here represented by Zenith, is at one maturity level that is hard to create anything that is a true novelty.

Zenith, as many other manufacturers, has a past that is so rich that they can produce re editions that carries a strong appeal to me.

Bring on more re editions, Zenith. We are here … Waiting.





Thank you for reading.

Cheers,

Nilo
This message has been edited by nilomis on 2013-07-23 11:26:34

And I am glad to see that after one year, you still have as much passion for this superb watch as you did before. I must say, of the 3, the SS version is the one to go for. Now my decision is whether to seek out one of these beauties, or go for a newer Striking 10th. I think the case of the 1969 New Vintage definitely has the sixties vintage "Happy Days" look !

But the black Ti has some mystique on the transparent dial associated with the lightness of the titanium case.

The pair, I never owned a gold watch, are true keepers and a good homage to the 60's/70's crazy days.

Cheers,

Nilo

I can identify with all that you described. Just an amazing piece inside out ! Well woth the wait and hunt.

Echoing your call .... Bring on more re-editions ! Vintage charm , modern convenience ... whats not ot like !

 

If I may share some photos of mine, pls.

Vintage roots ...

A very charming and physcadelic (as Nico puts it) dial , cannot agree more ...

Tricolore reigns supreme ! 

Supremely comfortable on the wrist ... feels very right !

 

Beautiful inside out !

 

Can you tell I am MADLY in LOVE ?!?  

nt

Your pictures shows that, no matter from the photo angle, the beauty of this watch.

The colors changes with the angle, making it more and more exciting.

Cheers,

Nilo

that you LOVE this watch???

 

 

MTF

Thank you so much for sharing your experience.  Great write up and beautiful pictures. 

. . . when the revision . . . 

I have two El Primeros from 1988 and 1990 in my small "vintage" collection, all of which I wear in circulation although the pre-WW2 less so to preserve their movements.   With small wrists I do not favour the modern fashion for large cases and prefer maximum 40mm diameter ones although 36mm suits me fine.   I also do not like the heavy cases with sharp angular designs (too 1970's) and prefer rounded finishes.

So I over time I bought two Ebel's cal 134 which contain the El Primero cal 400, one of which is pictured.   The second one is similar with a steel case.   Both still very accurate time-keepers well within COSC.

I have a major gripe to warn others.   Servicing these two watches is now becoming a problem.   Ebel as the manufacture has changed for the worse IMHO.   The supply of parts to my BHI registered repairer by both Ebel and Zenith are blocked.   Instead both manufacturers insist watches be sent for service or repair to a designated agent for no less than a full service (often with case repolishing) with imposed designated replacement parts (eg all hands replaced even though they are in perfect order).   It is a protectionist cartel situation similar to how the car manufacturers used to operate before the EU intervened.

I do not expect a 24 years old or in my case even a 77 year old watch to look, perform or be maintained like a brand new one.   It is great when the performance is good because of great care from skilled repairers.   Thank heavens for eBay and the internet!

To prevent this issue, my watchmaker made a good inventory of the El Primero parts.

I do believe that the same intervention that happened with car parts should happen with watch parts some day.

Now back to your Ebel:

I saw one on a seller that I'm a dedicated customer and I made a very low ball offering, considering that the bracelet fits only a very thin wrist (mine, if you ask).

He is thinking about my offer, but I may be a proud owner of an Ebel El Primero powered.

After all, it was Ebel that started the process that ended up saving the El Primero.

I just wonder if the Ebel case can handle a leather strap.

Cheers,

Nilo

The Ebel cal 134 case for my two El Primero chronographs take a leather strap, but the strap is special to Ebel (=more expensive), has no pin buckle facility and is usually supplied by Ebel service agent only.   Each curved lug-end strap with a sown-in metal insert is screwed to screw hole flanges between the lugs and also requires an Ebel deployant clasp because the strap has no pin buckle holes.

I have two sharkskin straps, one light tan bought from Germany via the internet (very limited choice) and one dark tan from an AD in Cheltenham (more expensive).   I should have bought black instead.   The available strap sizes are 20/18mm and 20/16mm and my deployant clasp is 16mm.   Alligator is an option at much greater expense but would look much better.   My all steel chrono also has an Ebel Classic style steel bracelet (wavy segments), which I often fit instead of the sharkskin.   The Classic steel bracelet and all-steel watch combination is very distinctive and stylish IMHO.   

To fit non-Ebel straps I have been offered an option of side drilling the lugs to accept a spring bar but decided that would detract from the originality of my two watches.   It would certainly widen the choice of straps.   However the non-Ebel straps would need to have curved lug ends to hide the screw hole flanges and would likely not fit well. 

I didn't know about that and based on your information, no Ebel to me.

I'm a leather person and I'm obsessed to have multiple straps for each watch.

That is the main reason that I don't have any watch with integrated bracelets, like the AP, no matter how much I love this brand.

Cheers,

Nilo

I also prefer leather straps, especially on vintage watches.   There is nothing better than a good quality alligator or lizard strap, coloured to suit the case style and material.   Lighter weight on the wrist too but not suitable for dunking in water!   I am looking for a blue alligator for my rectangular GP Richeville with polished steel case/gold bezel to match the blue steel hands.

I always go for a deployant clasp to save dropping the watch when wrist fitting.   I wash the leather occasionally with saddle soap and apply leather balm to preserve the straps from sweat.

Art,

Because of the fact that our wrists are used to bigger watches, the re edition "sits" better on the wrist than the original.

Cheers,

Nilo

. . . modestly sized watches, with the New Vintage being at the outermost level of acceptability for aesthetic comfort on my wrist.  All things being equal, the originals should be personally preferable.  It's to my surprise they aren't.  

The vintage size works fine on my wrist but the 19mm lug size makes my life harder to locate the proper straps.

Another factor to me is the fact that Zenith did some minor enhancements between the vintage PHC and the 400 and later to the 400Z.

I never had any info about why Zenith did those changes but considering that Zenith is very conservative, those changes may had a good reason to be executed.

Cheers,

Nilo

Thank you, Nilo, for a wonderful write-up.
I would really love to meet it in person!  Original or re-issue is always the question going around in my head, though.  But this re-issue sounds like worth pursuing.....  Thanks!

Ken

There is a Zenith boutique in Tokyo, correct?

They had a much desired Rainbow.

Cheers,

Nilo

.. perhaps about one year old or so.

Ken

Dear Nilo,

 

Thanks for an amazing and personal story of the watch.

I am still reeling from the fact that you keep a spreadsheet for watches.   

I started a real spreadsheet (old fashion paper) in an accounting log book back in 2000 but it stopped after a few entries....

 

I almost followed you

I also discovered this 1969 Re-edition model on PuristSPro website and went to the shop to see. In the end, I did not buy one but got a different Zenith watch instead. The current Mrs MTF veto was applied to the chronograph since she does not like more than one button/crown on "her" watches.

Notice that somehow, my watches become "her" watches...... 

 

I was looking through my files and found another mystery watch with El Primero movement: No idea why it is in my photo album......

 

Regards,

MTF 

 

  This message has been edited by MTF on 2013-07-25 08:29:26

I feel excited to have a historical piece on my wrist, without the concerns that I personally associate with potentially irreplaceable vintage ones.

About tracking watches, I started with a very complex software system (I wrote it) but as the time passed I decided that a plain and simple spreadsheet could do the job better.

I use to track very few pieces of information like the acquisition date, price (of course) and few observations that are also date related (guarantee expiration, last maintenance etc.

Cheers,

Nilo

hope to also see some live  shots of the titanium one.  i like the transparent dial too.

I love the "steampunk" look.

Cheers,

Nilo

Thanks for the 1 year on the wrist report, it's always good to know how things go long term.

-MW

And I'm left handed and my watches see more action than many.

Cheers,

Nilo

No message body

I start to understand why you think "a man is Zenith-less" without a El Primero...

 

Best

Blomman

Major fault?

Try it, love it.

Cheers,

Nilo

But, not chronograph related...

Give me time - I will get there!

 

Best

Blomman