SIHH 2017: Ulysse Nardin - Enamel, Enamel, and Enamel by Donze Cadrans....
By: KIH : January 20th, 2017-03:32
Honestly, the dials of Ulysse Nardin novelties left me speechless (considering the quality + price). You have to see to believe it.
This is the first time for Ulysse Nardin to display at SIHH.
Their theme/ forte has been always something marine, such as yacht.
At the press conference, they emphasized THREE basics of Ulysse Nardin:
1. Manufacture
2. Innovation
3. Savoire-faire (know how)
They make almost everything themselves including the hair spring. The only brand at SIHH that has technology to make silicium hair springs. And it now has Donze Cadrans who can do Enamel Grand Feu, Champleve, and Cloisonne. It is well known that Donze Cadrans used to provide enamel dials to Patek as well.
Now all Ulysse Nardin watches come with 5 year warranty.
Below are the offerings from Ulysse Nardin - some taken at the press conference, some at the appointment time.
Diver Chronograph "Artemis Racing"
45.8mm, LE of 250
InnoVision 2 - couldn't get closer than this, sorry!
Classico Rooster - Enamel, Champleve.
40mm, LE of 88.
Jade Underworld
Cloisonne dial. 36mm x 39mm
Also known as "easy for lady's nail", meaning you wouldn't have to "pull" the crown, where/when your nail may be damaged, but instead, pusher on the crown can let you choose the function of the crown - Date change, Time change, Winding. Those small diamonds, different sizes, indicates which function the crown would perform now. Good for guys, eh?
Jade Grand Feu.
Same function.
Marine Annual Calendar Chronometer.
43mm
Yup, "Grand Feu".
Now, this can be controversial.
Marine Tourbillon.
43mm
With Tourbillon and Grand Feu enamel dial - EUR30,000, more or less......
Marine Chronograph Annual Calendar.
43mm
Classic Dual Time
42mm
See "T/D/W" indicator? The same function for "easy for nail" as lady's model above.
"Dual Time" works as the pushers on the left side moves the hour hand go forward/ back.
The pusher on the crown lets you choose the function of the crown.
And, one of the highlights of this year.
Marine "Regatta".
44mm
This is pretty interesting. It counts down from between 1 and 10 minutes. So, good for the race which counts down, start and the stop watch must work counting "up", such as yacht.
650 parts
3 days power reserve.
Regatta "Black Enamel Champleve" version. LE of 35.
Now, let's see how it works.
Please understand that this working prototype has been in use like this for too many times ) But very delicate mechanism, I am sure.
Classico Enamel.
Beautiful blue enamel, on guilloche pattern.
Date really ruins, and the shape of the hands..... Would love it if I could customize a bit.
40mm - size-wise, very nice.
Even for lady's, so nice. Enamel on guilloche pattern.
Here are some re-issue of the vintage pieces.
Classic Marin Torpilleur
41mm
Classic Diver Locle
1964 vintage model. 38mm -> 42mm
Classic Perpetual Ludwig
38mm -> 41mm
Classic Paul David Nardin
1945 Vintage
33m -> 39mm
Chiming + Automata
Hourstriker Pinup
(sorry, no video here ))
43mm, LE of 28 for each RG and PT
North Sea Minute Repeater
42mm
LE of 18 for each RG and PT.
Let see/ hear how it does.
Sorry for the noisy surrounding.
Anyway, very, very interesting new line-up from Ulysse Nardin.
And I thank Ulysse Nardin and Sowind Japan for taking time showing these marvelous pieces to me.
Since the passing of our friend Rolf W. Schnyder, we have not been as "connected" to Ulysse Nardin.
I still have my old watches like the still good Ulysse Nardin +/- GMT Perpetual Calendar...but nothing recently.
1) Since both Girard-Perregaux and Ulysse Nardin now belong to the same investment Group, will they only display at SIHH and be missing from Baselworld?
2) Who actually manages Ulysse Nardin now? Do we know him or her?
1) Yes. The words on the street are that all the brands who are at SIHH, Richemont or non-Richemont, have signed NOT to participate in BaselWorld going forward. 2) I haven't had chances to greet him/ her. I will try to find out. Ken
yes I think Mr. Thierry Stern will be shaking his head about the Marine Tourbillon. . How did the 43mm feel on your wrist - too big or about right? And the Diver re-issue looks interesting but it is too bad UN did not give it a grand feu email dial too. I'm not kidding...ok maybe just a little. -joe
very well done offering for us watch lovers. now I just have to convince myself to like the idea of a tourbillon because I find it useless and impractical.
From SJX, As you can see the seconds hand of the Paul David Nardin is Blued which doesn't really come across in all photos, as are the hour and minute hands on the Ludwig, really really attractive collection.
I'm pretty sure I haven't seem them represented around the Bond St./New Bond St. area, the usual haunts? I think I have seen them in The Watch Room at Harrods on my only visit there at last year's Hodinkee pop up.