Ulysse Nardin

Living perpetually Sonata-style

A peek review of the
limited edition 42mm GMT Perpetual in platinum

by Marcus Hanke

 

Maybe you know the situation: you are an avid fan of a certain style, a certain design. And then comes the same product in new clothes, in a radically changed design. The natural reaction is opposition. Online communities are full of fierce battles for and against BMW’s new 7 class, for and against the remake of classic movies, and - sometimes - for and against the design of certain watches.

 

It is no secret that I always loved the classic design of Ulysse Nardin’s GMT Perpetual, which I had the privilege to subject to a long experience test. For me, this is still the absolutely perfect watch. the various limited editions of this watch did not differ much from the standard production series, only the slightly larger case and the COSC chronometer certificate, and of course the case material made them special.

 

But now, the GMT Perpetual’s limited edition cousins are really special: their case and the hands received a design similar to that of the unique alarm watch “Sonata”. The first limited edition was that in a 42mm wide platinum case, and my initial reaction, when I saw it, followed the rule mentioned above: opposition.

 

However, I have to admit that this was a mistake. This watch is absolutely attractive, but certainly different. Its design will polarize the opinions, many will dislike it, the others will adore it. In my opinion, it is a thrilling combination of elegance and boldness.

 

Let’s have a look at this watch: As mentioned above already, the platinum case has a diameter of 42 millimeters. This larger size, compared with the 40mm standard, is due to the uniquely protruding guards, into which the two pushers for the time zone adjustment blend perfectly. These pushers always appeared not to match the classic design of the GMT Perpetual really well, although their functionality outweighed this small disadvantage. Now, they are part of the watch’s overall design.

 

The other style element departing far from the sober and clean outlines are the hands. These are taken from the Sonata. When this watch was released, the hands were quite disputed, and sometimes respectlessly called “moustache”. The design originated from Rolf Schnyder himself, who desired a design that reminds of the elegant clef used in musical composition, but also permits an obstructed view on the watch’s various indications and subdials.

 

The latter is very important for the GMT Perpetual as well, and this is why these hands work so well with it. All date indication windows can be read at any time, while there is still enough luminosity on the hands’ tips to make the watch legible at night. Once again, I admire the perfect heat-blued finish and polishing of the hands, which is typical for Ulysse Nardin. The curved shapes are repeated by the attractive wave design stamped into the silver dial, as well as the three applied and polished Arabian numerals.

 

As mentioned already, the movement is certified by the Swiss chronometer institute, the COSC.

 

A wonderful and unique timepiece, limited to 500 pieces.

(c) 2008 Marcus Hanke, PuristSpro

added to Editor's Pick

This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2008-01-03 15:46:39 This message has been edited by Marcus Hanke on 2008-01-08 02:50:06

Can't wait to see one in person!

Stephen

version until i found the Ludwig. i still prefer the gmt dial, but as the Ludwig is the first in this family of perps i considered it was the better one to own. great review.

Graham

The elegance of the white gold with the gray dial cannot be beat unless you can afford the platinum.  I wear mine everyday.  It is so understatedly elegant I love it.  The fact that no one understands what's on my wrist makes it even better.  An associate was surprised that I hadn't made it to a Rolex.  I smiled to myself and said "someday"   Just a great design and a fabulous timepiece.

Am I missing something or hasn't this watch been out for 4 years and now sold out?

... this is not a new watch. My reviews often take watches as a subject that are on the market already for some time. However, this particular model is not sold out, but still available from the dealers.

Since this shape is used for the other limited edition models as well, the review should also be valid for the pink gold model.

Regards,
Marcus

but after seeing them on the Sonata case GMT Perpetual, I don't think the hands match with the GMT perpetual design.  The numerous rectangular cutouts in the dial for the perpetual don't go well with the moustache hands IMO.  Love the movement but not with this case/dial/hands combo.

Cheers,
Anthony

No message body

You know it, I'm convinced by this watch, as I think that UN, as very often, made a very good association between the style and the function, as these hands prove it.
It also gives some youth to a classic and old complication, quite a kind of fuuny and pleasant "visage".
Yes, I'm in love with it, and pleased to see it now in white gold.
The Rose Gold version is very pleasant too, as BHK9 posted it.
Well, a very nice and representative watch, finally!
Nicolas

For me, a UN perpetual should be the final coronation of my tiny collection. A watch that I intend to wear for decades. Therefore, its style should follow more classic design guidelines, like the unlimited version I had the pleasure to test for some time. As an alternative, I would take the sportive version, the Acqua Perpetual. or maybe both: one for its beauty, the other for its sturdiness.

Regards,
Marcus

Hi Marcus,

Nicolas question is straight forward.And you have ansered from your heart,i consider.

Again down to the choice of individual here,everyone have their own excuses of  with or against it.some back by history,some talk about passion,love at first sight,technicality,reputation,stylishness and etc.

Here is my side of the story,

UN perpetual GMT is a great watch regardless of its techncality fineness its can be consider the best modern perpetuals in these century.Its magnificient movement's design enable the adjustment fro/bck wards have made a challange that many noble watch manufacturer unable to retaliate.

Its a great watch to own,in my point of view the earlier verion of 38,39,40mm are those traditionalist whom favour the essence of originality.therefore the earlier version are to me considered conservative.But look at the new version up sized to 42mm,bigger means sportiness with the presence of sonata hands,kick off the luxury appearnce to the top.And being a MODERN perpetual of all time,i deeply feel that this watch in Classy/sporty/elegant BEST represent the soul of the watch.It's neither in between RM and Panerai nor Patek/Lange.Its an identity of its own,a new thing of its own.

What do you think?

BHK9

... in terms of the "corporate identity", I have to agree with you in that this style of perpetuals better matches what Ulysse Nardin as a company stands for now. It is modern, with a solid foot in traditional watchmaking, but firmly placing itself in the current time. It is clear that the design should mirror that, this is why watches like the "Freak", the "Sonata", or the Anniversary 160 are so typical for nowaday's Ulyse Nardin.

But there also is the other side of the company: theUlysse Nardin of the Marine Chronometers, the UN of the astronomical Trilogy of Time, of repeaters and skeleton watches. I consider this side as being an equally strong facet. Consequently, the conventional design of the 38 and 40mm perpetuals has the same right to stand aside the modern "Sonata-style" perpetual series, of which, I admit, I consider the limited Piccione edition to be the most attractive to my eyes.

Finally, I tend to look at watches in this price class as investments for decades, and like I try to imagine how a beautiful young woman I meet in the streets will look like when she is 60 or 70, I try to imagine how a "modernly" styled gold watch on my wrist would appear to me when I am 60 or 70. Will I enjoy it just the way I would today?

With the classic design, I think I am on the safe side. However, some might argue, I could also be on the boring side...

Best regards,
Marcus

Even though it's nearly 10 years since it was premiered in the Perpetual Ludwig. The clarity of the displays and the ease of use put it a cut above most of the other QP movements.

That being said, I still can't get over the Sonata-style hands! Thanks for the review, Marcus.

- SJX

but the Sonata style case and hand has not much appeal. I prefer the previous design.

I wonder what the full review will be like LOL.

Thanks Marcus for the review.  I saw amanico with a pretty cool UN Sonata that had me thinking very hard about the brand.

Very nice indeed.

Thanks

Bill

... to make a full-scale experience review. For a peek review, a possession period of a few hours has to be sufficient. Unfortunately, people won't let me wear all beautiful watches for a month or so ...
Regards,
Marcus