Ulysse Nardin

Dear Purists,

With the Year of the Horse watch joining the Dragon and Snake, I am glad to have the opportunity to write this post as a continuation of my previous ones !!

As a recap, my previous posts are:

ulyssenardin.watchprosite.com

ulyssenardin.watchprosite.com

In December 2013, I had a glimpse of the original photo released to ADs regarding the Horse and posted it.  The motif was great but color scheme and lack of enameling details at that point were uninspiring, and many of you made such similar comments.  Here is what the first version looked like.

A few months later, out came a dial with an updated color scheme and many Purists responded positively to this version which represented the final product.  Official photo of the final version is listed below.

Well, the official photo looked great but in the metal, the dial is marvelous and the horses are really alive and roaming freely !!  The reason is that the 3D effect is really good.  Depth in the dial is created by having the horses (outlined by the gold lines) against a dreamy dark blue background (mixed with dark green in some places) with various shades.  The artists at Donzé Cadrans (enamel dial making subsidiary of UN) were able to apply various shades of dark blue (some with green hue influence) in the different cells (carved into the dial under the champlevé enameling method) to create contrasts and thus distance between the horses and the mountains behind & the sky above them.  Furthermore, same as in the wilderness, the mountains are layered and the plains are uneven.

Observations on this enamel dial from the first glance 

• The body of the white horse contains subtle gray patches that create shading and thus give depth and life to this animal
• The black horse on the other hand only has one shade of black but contains more lines (for its mane and tail because the position of its body is different) that provide it more details  
• The white horse “stands” out more (pun intended) than the black horse because of the stronger contrast with the dark background
• The color scheme of the dial goes well with blue shirts and suits

After studying the dial intently under a loupe, I noticed details that are tiny, well planned and really add characters to the watch (as I had come to expect of UN):

• Gold lines used for each horse have been carefully thought through and they create a realistic figure (head, eyes, ears, nostrils, body, legs, mane) with muscle tones
• Small and subtle lines are made to show the indentation of ears, mouths and right nostril of the white horse, and such minute details make the heads very life-like
• Heck, the bottom of the left front leg of the white horse has a tiny line depicting the hoof !! 
• The wavy lines carved for the manes and tails, coupled with the positioning and shapes of the legs and bodies, convey motions
• The heads and two sets of eyes of the horses seem to be focused on the same spot, thus suggesting that they are captivated by something to the left of the dial.  Hence, the white horse is stopping in the middle of its stride while the black horse is making a sudden turn from galloping to observe an object of interest.  To me, this clever little aspect says that there is more to this picture than two horses simply running around, and I truly appreciate the thinking that went into planning the design.  
  

Differences to the Dragon and Snake dials,

• 5 colors [white, black, gold, dark blue (with green influence), and gray] vs. 6 for the Dragon and 7 for the Snake (see previous posts for their colors)
• Although all three are housed in rose gold cases, the Horse comes with a blue leather strap instead of a brown one.  For this dial, the blue strap actually complements the overall color scheme more appropriately because most of the watch contains dark colors
• The mouths for the horses are closed whereas they are opened for the snake and dragon (hence snake and dragon each has an additional color just for the inside of the mouth)
• The motif for the Horse is concentrated on being life-like and strong, whereas the other two pursue fierceness in addition to being life-like.
• Placement of the logo “Ulysse Nardin” is centered at 12 o’clock, whereas Dragon has it centered at 6 and Snake has encircled the logo with the coil of its body & the words runs from 12 to 3

Similarities with the Dragon and Snake watches:

• Same movement (being UN-815) used
• Champlevé enamel
• Sold through AD network in addition to boutiques
• Same price point on MSRP

Overall, the Horse has a “simpler” dial and is “lower key” than its siblings, but just as well designed and executed.

After a good run for three zodiac motifs by UN, I wonder what the Year of the Goat will bring.  What possible themes (other than being life-like) can exist for the Goat ??   Do Purists and collectors alike want “living” goats (strong, fierce, or harmless-looking ones) on their wrists ??  I am eagerly awaiting photos for the next zodiac so that I can mentally prepare myself to either stop or continue with this journey (which by the way has been a wonderful experience thus far) !!

Thank you for reading and appreciate your comments / observations.

Cheers,

Gordon

and to see them all-together is superb.

All three have their own charm and special character, but my favorite part is still the little dragon and especially his face.

Congrats, Gordon!

Oliver

your feedback on Little Dragon being your favorite. This UN snake is a ferocious little thing.  It practically is jumping out to bite whoever is looking at him!!

When we meet next, you will get a taste of his fangs.

Cheers,

Gordon

They just want to play and me too

Looking forward to it!

Oliver

Your dedication for these watches, and for these dials.

Here we are not in horology anymore, but in Arts. I don't think many people have conscience of the amount of time, work and efforts behind each of these dials.

That's why your article is interesting.

A true PuristS post.

Bravo, my friend, and thank you so much for this superb article.

Nicolas

to me, arts and horology go hand-in-hand because horology is truly a form of art !!

To your saying that this enamel dial takes much time, work and efforts, I can only imagine how accurate it is.  One day (soon I hope), I must visit Donze and will then truly feel the extent of your statement.

As mentioned to you previously, I am both very excited and a bit nervous on continuing this UN enamel journey.

Cheers,

Gordon     

A visit to Donze? That would be MEGA interesting.

Enamel is so demanding, and only a few artists know how to work with it.

As for your journey into enamel dials, I must say that I am eagerly folloxing each of your fantastic steps.

With pleasure, " delectation " and admiration.

All the best, my dear friend.

Nicolas

Superb article! Thank you for sharing your journey and collection with us as well as a detailed review of the enameling work done on the UN Horse.

I fully understand your thinking about not wanting an ornamental timepiece on your wrist at your young age.  The next cycle is  another 12 years when the opportunity arises again to give yourself a reason (excuse) to get one.  

Cheers,

Gordon

P.S. IMO, of all the enamel pieces (UN, Patek, and others) for various zodiacs, this UN horse is quite subdued and not loud because of the overall color scheme with darker colors covering most the dial.  However, it is no less in terms of intricate details.  

Hi Gordon,

Congrats on this long awaited piece! Your passion for enamels, and in particular this series, is inspiring! Besides its obvious beauty, I think it must also be a very challenging series for collector and manufacture alike. For the collector, it is a 12 year (!) endeavor with no guarantee of continuity by the company.
For the manufacture, the series must be challenging on so many fronts. Unlike motifs of inherently beautiful objects like ships, or flowers, or birds, the characters here are pre-defined, and not all are attractive (rat, pig). I, for one, am very curious how the artists will handle this. Fortunately, if anyone can accomplish this seemingly impossible task, UN can. They have never limited their enamel subject matters to merely 'pretty', but rather, have a daring and 'story-telling' aspect to them. Add to that the crackdown on luxury in China, and the recent acquisition of UN, and the uncertainties pile up.

Given the perceived risks, I think this is one area to watch (pun intended) for tell-tale signs of UN's independence and any changes in direction. I suppose we shall find out soon enough at the end of this year... we are rooting for you, Gordon!

As for the watch... a true beauty. I like that its mood, which you captured so well, is different from the other two. It has a romantic feel to it. Strange thing to say of something that is more often discussed in technical terms, but that's the appeal of enamel, no?

...truly amazing objects of marvelous artistry !!

My love (or madness as Nico said previously) for them is growing stronger with every piece.

With UN under a big group, I am certain that UN will continue with the Chinese zodiac series.

Let's see if the goat interests me and push me deeper into the enamel journey.

What do you think the goat motif will be ?? Fierce, live-like, or what else ??

Cheers,

Gordon

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Thank you for the comprehensive review of your UN enamel watches.  They are truly spectacular in workmanship.  Congratulations and wear them in good health.

... unless and until one sees and examines (using a loupe) enamel dials in one's hands, it is hard for  he / she to imagine the amount of minute and intricate details that are present.  Only then can one understand the amount of great planning, hard work and persistent efforts that are required. 

Apparently some brands provide psychiatric counseling to enamel artisans who have issues dealing with the fact that some of their dials are ruined in the last firing process after much time and efforts spent.  

Earlier I read an article about enamel makers quitting the business because of the above unfortunate incidence.

My salute these artists.

Gordon  

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Year of the Goat!!

This motif will be a difficult one to create IMO,

If anyone can face this challenge, It will be UN!!

That is true love and dedication to brand and art of enamel

"blind" true love!!

Most would find the Horse most appealing, unless your are Asian and born in the year of the dragon or snake !!

Cheers,

Gordon