Vacheron Constantin

For the Historiques collection Vacheron Constantin delves into its heritage for inspiration in creating watches for today. For some of the watches in the Historiques collection, the influence comes from design (American 1921, Toledo 1952, and Aronde 1954), and at other times, from technical excellence (Chronometer 1907, Ultra-fine 1955, and Ultra-fine 1968.). The 1955 and 1968 were introduced at SIHH in January, 2010 and have been slowly trickling out of Vacheron Constantin’s workshops since late last year.

In this era when the oversized watch reigns supreme, and even Vacheron Constantin’s classic dress watch, the Patrimony Contemporaine, is 40 mm in diameter, it feels like a bold move to bring out a pair of ultra-slim, elegant dress watches. While the 36 mm of the 1955 is large compared with the original 31 mm, and with a similar increase of the 1968 to its current 35 mm square, they can only be described as understated in this day and age. I will focus on the Historiques Ultra-fine 1968 today.


The precedent for the Historiques 1968, reference 43043, is the reference 7614, which debuted in 1968.


The 35.2 mm case is crafted in 18K 4N rose gold, an alloy with a hue that is between the 3N yellow and the 5N pink gold that Vacheron Constantin employs for most of the bulk of its non-white metal watches.


The case back is held down by 8 screws and the watch has 30 meters of water resitance. While 35.2 mm is not large by contemporary standards, it wears larger in a square case than it would if it were a 35 mm round case. It has almost the same presence as a 38-40 mm round watch.


The glossy black crocodile strap with rolled edge enhances the elegance of this timepiece.


And on the wrist it sits quite nicely, don’t you think?


The subtle tiered step of the lug follows the line of the main body of the case and frames the bezel.


The flanks of the case curve in delicately from bezel to case back.

The silvered dial is given a vertical satin grain finsih and the hour markers are applied in a way that outlines a circle, a beautiful counterpoint to the square frame. The baton hands reinforce the minimalism of the dial. I applaud Vacheron Constantin’s decision not to print “AUTOMATIC” on the dial.


What makes the watch so thin - the case is only 5.5 mm thick - is the use of the legendary caliber 1120, which Vacheron Constantin debuted in 1968. This ultrathin full-rotor automatic winding watch is all of 2.45 mm thick. It is a gorgeous movement, one of my all-time favorites, and in some respects it is a shame that there is no sapphire case back though which one can admire the movement.



The Ultra-fine1968 is another compelling addition to the Historiques collection. While form watches will never be as popular as round watches, I do suggest that you try this particular one on your wrist. The Historiques Ultra-fine 1968 is a watch that is meant to reveal its subtle charms while being worn.

Bill

The Historiques 1968 has been disturbing my sleep a little.  I have to say I was not on to this watch until I saw it for the first time last spring, and then only behind glass.  I have since tried it on (a big mistake!) and ogled it a couple of times.  I avoided this one at the Boutique last week.  I know how weak I am.

You are absolutely right about how it wears on the wrist and seems much more like a 38-40mm watch with its square shape. Its thinness is so seductive as are the lines of the case and the lugs.  The dial is so clean, and that circular pattern created by the indices is such a perfect counterpoint to the square case, as you suggested. 

I have to say that I am more and more thinking of this one as being on a similar level with the Patrimony Contemporaine.  I am not sure it makes for a "smart" partner to the 1921, but it certainly has me thinking.  Not inexpensvie, however. 

I like the distinction you made in the two major approaches VC has taken with the Historiques line -- I had not thought of it that way before, but it makes perfect sense. 

 

Thanks for a great "quick look" and for some lovely photos.

Best always,

respo

I'm not sure that this watch should be your next VC, as you have a gorgeous form case already in the collection with the 1921, but when has rationality won over when it comes to watches? That said,  I would steer you to the Patrimony Contemporaine.

BIll

If I were rational about this, and we know I am not, yes, the PC makes much more sense as the next one for me, but the 1968 is haunting me a bit.  That, said, the PC haunts me, too. 

Thank you for steering me in teh right directions.

Best,

respo

That is a superb modern VC... Elegance, refinement, understatement, that watch has all to please.

A great, maybe the best offer from VC, since past  year.

Superb review, too, Bill.

Best,

Nicolas.

There are so many excellent VC's that can fly under the radar due to their relative rarity (as with the Historiques models).

Bill

Thanks for profiling this almost-forgotten new timepiece.  OTOH, I wish they had included AUTOMATIC on the dial and perhaps a sapphire caseback to view the treasure within.  Seems this model is intended to be very stealthy

I can't imagine a finer set of watches to wear with a tuxedo. I'm not sure they are for everyday use, at least how I dress.

Bill

Thank you for sharing, Bill!

 

 

Best

 

Blomman

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...sapphire case back th(r)ough which one can admire the movement."

Square watches wear so much larger that I think at 35mm it's actually slightly too large.

...is too small for others. But for some of us, it's just right.  I would not have this one any other size.  I think it looks great on Bill's wrist as well.

Cheers,

respo

before having them join a collection. I think it looks great on my wrist with a dress shirt on, but your mileage may vary.

Bill

"The squaw on the hippopotamus is equal to the sum of the squaws on the other two sides."

That equation summarises the value of the diagonal across the square as the longest side of the 2 triangles that make up the square.

Thus, the 35mm square watch has the presence of a 40mm round watch. 

 

Thank for the report, Bill.

 

Regards,

MTF

and the revisit to grade school math!

Bill

Thanks for this one!

Stephen

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