Vacheron Constantin

Hello All,

I have encountered a question frequently about the Maltese Cross that represents Vacheron Conatantin.  The answer to this powerful Trademark was born out of innovation.  Manually winding pocket and wristwatches had one major downfall, the user could overwind the mainspring of a watch, therefore breaking the mainspring or other components of the movement.  Vacheron came up with an ingenius invention, a clutch gear in the shape of a Maltese Cross in order to prevent overwinding. To this day I still have customers that have trepeditions about over winding the watch and therefore not useing the mainsprings true potental, lowering the power reserve of the timepiece. A good rule of thumb when winding you VC American 1921, 1955, or Patrimony is to wind the watch untill the crown will not wind any furthur.

This is just another helpful hint from BTWatchguy.

BTWatchguy

Royal Jewelers, Andover, Ma

I did not realize (or I forgot) that VC came up with the mechanism to prevent overwinding the watch.  That is very interesting to know.  Also, a good reminder on how we may wind our timepieces. Thank you.

Now, for me the maltese cross symbol is the most compelling one among all of the manufacturers.  It is instantly recognizable and it lends itself so well to its use in the design of rotors, bezels, buckles, etc.

respo

What you are referring to is the Geneva Stopworks mechanism, which isn't uniquely V&C but is said to originate with the watchmakers in the Canton of Geneva, although it also appeared in movements of French manufacture.  Attached to the barrel, it does indeed prevent over-winding of the spring.  The nickname "Maltese Cross" was soon given to this mechanism because some variations resembled that religious icon.  It was also a sign of the best quality timepieces until the free-sprung balance arguably surpassed its design efficiencies.  Nevertheless, the mechanism is still used in other mechanical devices to provide intermittent rotation without allowing reverse motion.

Franco Cologni in his must-have reference book, Secrets of Vacheron Constantin, sets out the best description of events IMHO:

"As proof of its optimism, in 1880, when the crisis was at its height, the firm created its celebrated logo: the Maltese cross, distinguished by its four branches and eight points.  Henceforth this would be the symbol that would appear on the dials of all the firm’s watches.  The cross design was registered with the Office federal de la propriete industrielle in Berne in 1880, and two years later in Italy and America.  We do not know who chose this logo, nor their reasons for doing so.  Very probably it was inspired by a part of this shape found in precision watches, the function of which was to limit the tension on the spring in order to avoid it snapping.  Thus it was a mark of quality.  The fact that one of the firm’s agents in Paris had the Rue de Malte as his address for a time may also have played its part, as may memories of the wall clock created in 1790.  But the essential qualities of the symbol reside nevertheless in its nobility, the long tradition attached to it, and its historical importance." 

I have to agree that the combination of religious and political significance represented by the Maltese Cross was at least as important as its connection to a mechanical device...at the time European nobility were the most important customers for V&C and the focus of their marketing strategies.

Excuse my brain fart...that is what my kids would call any act of temporary insanity ;-)  In addition to his invention of the winding crown, Adrien Philippe (of Patek, Philippe fame) patented in 1863 a so-called "free spring" or slipping mainspring feature where a specially constructed mainspring wa s held in the winding barrel by tension rather than the usual hooked fixture. Since it gripped the barrel by friction only, the spring would slip once fully wound.  This invention pre-dates the automatic movement, but certainly became essential to the development of that mechanism. Advantages over the Geneva stopworks, aside from overwinding protection, was less complexity and induced errors, and less space within the movement.  Thanks for the correction

AFAIK the current VC collection only offers quartz movements in ladies models.  When the technology was new, the Swiss watch industry placed a high premium on quartz, often priced above their mechanical counterparts.  The Japanese soon brought prices down to pedestrian levels and nowadays they are generally thought suitable for the non-WIS or for haute joaillerie embelleshment.  While the price of these 80s and 90s pieces is attractive, they have limited collectors value IMHO.  The new Patrimony Traditionnelle is sublime in its classic dial design!

Hey Frankfye789,

I have run into VC quartz pieces. I find they tend to be of the same quality level of Patek or Piaget quartz pieces.  The best advice I have for you is to change the battery on a regular basis in order to ward off corrotion and enjoy the watch.

BTWatchguy

Royal Jewelers

Andover, Ma