Harry Winston

The Ocean Dual Time belongs to the Harry Winston tradition of travel watches. This tradition has started with  the Premier Excenter Timezone  I presented here a few weeks ago.  This Excenter  has a second timezone display through a retrograde hand and an handwind caliber.

Even if the purpose of the Ocean Dual Time (or Z4 when it gets the Zalium case) is the same (a watch dedicated to the people who travel a lot or who need to get at a glance the time of a second timezone), the way Harry Winston designed it was totally different.

Ocean Dual Time:





Excenter Timezone:



First of all, we are not anymore in the Premier Collection but in the Ocean one: so the case design is different. Moreover, the caliber is here an automatic one. And finally, the dial layout (I would say: the complication) is very far from the Excenter one.

A glance is enough to see that unlike the Excenter, the Ocean Dual Time has two  subdials (a large one for the home time and a smaller one for the second timezone): thanks to its dedicated subdial, the second timezone is displayed with  hour and minutes hands.





With a clear separation between the main dial and the second timezone indicator, the Excenter dial is at the end more intuitive and practical. But the two subdials system of the Ocean Dual Time gave to Harry Winston the ability to create a beautiful multi-layers dial. Nothing is flat on this dial, our eyes browse a 3D environnement. This dial is a sort of gathering of several circles like floating soap bubbles: look at the shape of the two subdials, the day&night indicators, the shuriken, the two disks of the big date display.

The dial layout and the main functions of the Ocean Dual Time:





The only part which is not round on the dial is the element which encloses the two figures of the big date display: it has the classic shape of the arch of the entrace of the NY boutique and as you know it, this shape is a part of the Harry Winston DNA.

This gathering of circles with the addition of the vertical big date display give a very elegant originality to the watch.

The Excenter doesn't have a second hand but right between the two subdials, the Ocean Dual Time features the Shuriken which has the purpose of being the working indicator. The Dual Time lost the power reserve indicator of the Excenter. It is obvious that he caliber context is not the same: even if I still think that a power reserve indicator is more useful with an automatic watch than with an handwind one,  the large power reserve of the Excenter caliber makes it almost essential which is not the case with the Ocean Dual Time.








The main quality of this Dual Time is the dial and case finishings. The case has a 44mm diameter and is available in Pink Gold or White Gold. When the Zalium is used, the watch name is changed in Z4, the 4th watch to use the patented material.





The quality of the case finishings can be underlined by the crown protectors and by the way the second timezone adjustement pushpiece is integrated into the case.

The Ocean Dual Time has an important characteristic: it is the first Harry Winston watch to use an exclusive in-house module. The caliber base is the automatic GP3396 which has a power reserve of around 45 hours and a 4hz frequency.





Finishings of the caliber are flawless but not that impressive: the caliber has a gold rotor with the Harry Winston logo on it. You will notice its off-centered position and it seems to be a bit lost in the case. However, it is a reliable caliber which has enough power to animate the Harry Winston dual-time module. But, to be honest with you, we are far from the sight offered by the Excenter caliber.





When we wear the watch, it is the same story than with the other 44mm Ocean cases. Thanks to the shape of the lugs, the watch can be comfortable if you have a large wrist. If the wrist is large enough, no problem, you will wear the Ocean Dual Time with a lot of pleasure and comfort. If your wrist is small, the way the strap is integrated into the overall design of the watch will give you a strange feeling: the watch will appear to be huge.









This Ocean Dual Time is not perfect: its dial is not as intuitive as the Excenter one and I would have prefered a more decorated caliber. But, thanks to its dial and case finishings, the easy-to-operate pushpiece, its overall design, its originality (a vertical big date display!) it is a watch full of charm. I was totally seduced by this Dual Time and, at the end, I consider it as a very valuable option in the world of two timezones watches. Once you see the dial, you can't forget the feeling of depth and volume it brings.

A big thank to the staff of the Harry Winston Boutique of London.

Fr.Xavier

This message has been edited by foversta on 2010-06-26 13:49:13

I really like the layout of the dial, thanks for the wrist shots!  The HW logo rotor is a nice touch as well.  How did it feel on the wrist as far as comfort?

-MW

...when you have a large wrist. Thanks to the strap and the lugs, the watch is well put in place. If you have a small wrist, things become more difficult.

Fr.Xavier

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A friendly complication dispalyed in a modern and, most of all, original way.

Any chance to try it in France?

The trigger to use the timezone function is well thought, too.

It looks like a minute repeater!

Best,

Nicolas.

The pusher looks like a slide lever !



Fr.Xavier

For me the Ocean Dual Time has a much cooler, younger-skewing case.  The Excenter does have that gorgeous slate blue dial, but the dial layout on the Ocean Dual Time is much more dynamic IMO.  I have to say thanks to you for presenting these pictures to us.  I had forgotten how much I liked the Z4, but your posts have reminded me.

Cheers,
Daos

And happy birthday !

Fr.Xavier
This message has been edited by foversta on 2010-06-29 12:28:30

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foversta,

 

Thanks for the review.

Th current Mrs MTF was presented with an Excenter Dual Time, that I  'borrow' occasionally

The Excenter is very easy to use.  The only criticism may be that the shiny surfaces o the "HW arches" are 'scratch-magnets' and the chunky case may be vulnerable if we are threshing about on an aeroplane journey.  Such life-records are called "patina".

When I saw the Ocean Dual Time in your report, I must admit that the functions were not immediately intuitive; maybe because of familiarity with the Excenter.  I wonder if someone who has never used the Excenter would be as confused?

After reading your report, I could understand how it works andit is not confusing anymore.  I guess that is why we read the PuristSPro forums! 

The Ocean Dual Time (and the Z4) has even more to look at with the two Day/Night indicators.

I disagree about the power reserve display; it is more important on a hand-wind watch because we have no idea of the state of wind.  On an automatic, as long as the working indicator or seconds hand is moving and you are alive, it will be winding.......eh? 

Regards, MTF

 

This message has been edited by MTF on 2010-06-29 18:30:53

Well Melvin, I really think that a power reserve indicator is much more useful with an automatic watch. Because you don't wind it. Because all automatic calibers don't have the same efficiency in winding. You may think that the watch is running properly but because you are low in the power reserve, you can get a bad accuracy.

With a handwind caliber, when you have the discipline, you wind it every morning. So you know that you start the day with a full power reserve.Two exceptions:

I think that the power reserve indicator is useful with the large power reserves (e.g 8 days) and for the foolish people.



Thanks a lot for your feelings about the Excenter Timezone.

Fr.Xavier

foversta,

 

Ahhh....yes; the reserve de marche indicator is for stupid people (or those with many hand wind watches). 

If you have one hand-wind watch, you know when it was last wound but not if you have many such watches. Then, you need a reminder, no?

The same for automatics; if you have one, you know it is wound if it is on your wrist "at least for some time per day". But if you have more, they have to be on a winder or you lose track.

For Chopard LUC waches, it is the "Rule" that only their hand-wind watches (also happens to be their 8-day movement) have power reserve display.....why?  I think it is (as you say) the long reserve that determines this "rule".

 

Regards,

MTF

Never thought I would say that but when you see the back it is.. I dont know, not as stunning as the front.  Seems small, I do like the watch and it is way nicer than anything I have, my 2 cents

Nice review of the Ocean Dual Time.  I prefer this over the Exeter because the Ocean Dual Time has such a nice dial layout and I love the depth and 3D effect and placement of the time zone indicators.  The off-centered display back seems a little odd, but I'd like to see it in person.
Does the second time zone pusher slide up like a repeater of does it push in?  Any reasons why they chose this pusher style instead of a regular push button?

Regards,
ED-209

i made a thread about this watch too
i really love it
maybe the best Ocean ever IMHO

Jek

I love HW creations. Very innovative and fresh. This is no exception.

Beautiful dial, I love the way it shows the information and the choosen colors.

 

A HQ product.

 

 

Thanks for sharing, FX. It looks great on your wrist.

 

 

 

Vte

 

 

PS: Cool "Shuriken" seconds indicator. Very Ninja!!

 

Yes, the shuriken was inspired by the Mange culture !


Fr.Xavier

and really respect how they've managed to evolve the aesthetic with each new variant or combination.

Most other brands, the design would sink under the weight of the design and not been able to rise above "tuna can" but somehow, each new Ocean (and Z) model looks fresh, interesting, compelling. There is a consistency to the line, and yet not boringly repetitive.

Can the Z and Ocean lines be the new, fresh Offshores?

Thanks, Foversta, for the great pics. I know how hard it is to get great pics under such conditions!

TM

I agree with your comparison with the Offshore: With the Ocean & Z collection, HW offers a wide range of complications with a similar case.

Fr.Xavier