Independents

Press release:

INTRODUCING THE NEW BLACK DIAL, WHITE GOLD CHAPTER ONE
FROM MAÎTRES DU TEMPS

LACHAUX-DE-FONDS, Switzerland – Building on the extremely successful launch of the groundbreaking Chapter One in 2008, Maîtres du Temps now presents a sensational new limited edition, featuring a jet-black dial and rollers set in a high-contrast white gold case.

Timeless elegance is evoked by the juxtaposition of elegant white gold hands against the black dial and of the bright red of the counterpoised chronograph second hand against the engine-turned sun-ray guilloche of the sub-dials. The ethereal beauty of the moon and stars against a dark night sky belies the high-tech nature of its anodized aluminum roller—a roller visually and technically balanced by the day of the week roller at the opposite end of the long, sweeping compound curves of the stunningly finished case.

The highly polished tourbillon literally explodes from the dark dial in a highly reflective burst of light, some of which streams in through the opening to the day roller and sweeps up from under the tourbillon, adding to the three-dimensionality of the spectacle. Amid the indication-rich nature of the dial, the tourbillon cage and bridge stand out as if under a bright spotlight on a semi-darkened stage.

“To my eye, where the silver-dialed Chapter One leans in the direction of a more classic look, this black-dialed version feels sportier, faster. And I particularly like the way that the black of the dial continues into the dark night sky of the moon roller above and the black day roller below,” says Mr. Steven Holtzman, founder of Maîtres du Temps.

Developed by a collaboration of three of the world’s greatest watchmakers, Mr. Christophe Claret, Mr. Roger Dubuis, and Mr. Peter Speake-Marin, Chapter One features a world-first combination of complications: tourbillon, mono-pusher chronograph, retrograde date, retrograde GMT, and two rolling bars at 6 o’clock and 12 o’clock, indicating the day of the week and phase of the moon, respectively. The dial reveals central coaxial hours, minutes, and chronograph 60-second counter; tourbillon and day of the week roller at 6 o’clock; retrograde GMT at 9 o’clock; 60-minute chronograph counter and precision moon phase roller at 12 o’clock; and retrograde date at 3 o’clock.

Chapter One is imbued with the intoxicating fusion of Mr. Claret’s undisputed mastery of high-end complications, Mr.Dubuis’ rich lifetime of experience in haute horlogerie, and Mr.Speake-Marin’s unparalleled ability to bridge the very best of both traditional and modern watchmaking.

The ease of both reading and adjusting Chapter One’s many indications disguises the fact that this is an extremely complex movement that has been handcrafted and meticulously assembled from 558 components. Efficiently transmitting power to the two rollers and ensuring that they work simultaneously with the time, date, GMT, and chronograph was just one of the immense technical challenges met and conquered.

About Maîtres du Temps

Maîtres du Temps is a pantheon where teams of independent master watchmakers at the very pinnacle of haute horlogerie collaborate to develop innovative, interesting, and very exclusive timepieces. Founded by Mr. Steven Holtzman and based in Switzerland, Maîtres du Temps crafts limited-series mechanical masterpieces, each the synthesis of the experience, art, and techniques of the Masters who create it. For more information, please visit www.maitresdutemps.com .

Chapter One – Black Dial, White Case – Technical Specifications

 

Limited Edition of 11 pieces

 

Features: manual-wind mechanical movement, one-minute tourbillon, mono-pusher chronograph, retrograde date indicator, retrograde GMT indicator, day of the week indication on roller, patented precise moon phase indication on roller.

 

Displays:

-         Central hands indicating hours and minutes

-         Central chronograph counterpoised second hand

-         60-minute counter at 12 o'clock

-         Retrograde date at 3 o'clock

-         Retrograde GMT at 9 o'clock

-         One-minute tourbillon at 6 o'clock

-         Day of the week indication on roller at 6 o'clock

-         Patented precise moon phase indication on roller at 12 o'clock

 

Functions:

      -     Two-position winding crown: pushed in to wind the watch; pulled out to set the time

-     Chronograph: start/stop/return-to-zero function activated by single pusher in the crown

 

Correctors:

-      Date corrector at 2 o'clock

-      Day of the week corrector at 4 o'clock

-      Moon phase corrector at 8 o'clock

-      GMT corrector at 10 o'clock

 

Caliber SHC02:

-    Dimensions: 51.3 mm x 31.6 mm

-    Number of components: 558

-    Number of jewels: 58

-    Power reserve: 60 hours

      -    Tourbillon rotation: 60 seconds

      -    Balance frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)

 

Case:

      -     18K white gold

      -     Number of components: 104

      -     Dimensions: 62.60 mm x 45.90 mm

      -     Sapphire crystals with double anti-reflective coating

      -     Display back: sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating

      -     High polish and satin finishes on compound-curve surfaces

      -     Correctors with integrated locking system                                                  

 

Dial:

      -     18K gold

      -     Number of components: 7

      -     Multi-faceted and beveled

      -     Printed Roman numerals

      -     Engine-turned sun-ray guilloche

      -     Red counterpoised chronograph hand

      -     18K gold sword-shaped hands for the 60-minute chronograph counter, hour, minute, date, and GMT

 

Rollers:

-         Day roller: matte anodized anticorodal finished aluminum

-         Moon phase roller: anodized anticorodal finished aluminum inside a matte anodized cover with laser-pierced moon and stars

-         Window between day roller and tourbillon

 

Strap:   hand-sewn alligator strap with 18K white gold deployant buckle

 

 

Please note that specifications may change without notice.

 

 

 

 

This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2009-03-13 10:29:40 This message has been edited by MTF on 2009-03-16 22:12:07

Or does it slowly turn all the time?

Jean Dunand's Shabaka has rollers which jump instantaneous at midnight.  Btw, below are some pics of the Shabaka from Alex's post long time ago for those who aren't familiar with the Shabaka:  ahci.watchprosite.com

Cheers,
Anthony

This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2009-03-13 19:23:13

but with an nice unusual day display. the Shabaka however, is very different from anything i've seen.

best

Graham

The 1st peek (live photos) by PuristS was back on 20 December 2008:  click here

 It was near Christmas so I guess people did not notice.....you gotta keep your eyes peeled on PuristSPro or you'll miss it !

MIMO  --  Miss It...Miss Out.

MTF

Steve Holtzman pointing out the features of  the Chapter One - first collaborative project with Masters Dubuis, Claret and Speake-Marin, to name them in chronological order - oooer - how politically correct! 

 

See the moonphase display roller at 12 o'clock?    The lady was looking .....very carefully

There are 11 black dials: 10 identical dials (not shown) and this unique ONE.

 

The day display roller

Steve was surprised when he showed this "new display mode" to another Independent Master Watchmaker because said Master then showed him a sketchbook from 3 decades ago with the same concept drawing that was not allowed to come to fruition.  There is truly nothing 'new' in design......

Of course, innovation in mechanism, execution and materials continue to surprise us.

 

The moonphase display in detail: laser-pierced moon and stars

Wiew and rewiewed deisgn. Design that seems stolen to Franck Muller watch. 

3 watchmaker, for 3 parts, Finally this watch look more than à glue of 3 parts without stylistic direction.

The number of coplications, Double Quantième, Chrono, moonphase and GMT, Don't need this biggest mouvement and case.

Last thing, iam very bad guy, but in french this name, "maitre du temps", sound like a Dungeon&Dragon Canpaign, not like a serious brand name...  

Firstly, that the design is "stolen from Franck Muller". The Chapter One's case is nothing like any Franck Muller case I know of. Its dial numerals fan out radially - as do the dial designs of any number of companies, including Franck Muller. Do you think FM were the first maker to use such a design idea? Let me assure you, they were not. Does this mean that FM are thieves too?

"A glue of three parts without stylistic direction." I could recognise a Maîtres du Temps (that's how it's spelt, by the way) Chapter One from the other side of a crowded room, the design is so distinctive. Generally speaking, this is a difficult feat to achieve when a watch has no stylistic direction.

Having examined a Chapter One at close quarters, I can assure you that its 558-component movement is a thing of great complexity and beauty. Yes, they could possibly have made it a bit smaller. Like you, I lament the apparent gradual passing of the old Swiss tradition of miniaturisation in movement design.

Remember though, that the power and torque required to rotate those barrels, drive the tourbillon cage, snap the retrograde indicators, and power the chronograph (at times all simultaneously) is not inconsiderable. Do away with the barrels, and you remove one of the stylistic directions of the watch. Hey, by your calculation, that would mean that the Chapter One would have less than zero stylistic direction.

"Maîtres du Temps" seems quite an appropriate name for a company whose stated aim is to feature watches borne of collaborations between master watchmakers. I suppose Mr Holtzman could have called his brand "Nicolas Sarkozy" instead. Perhaps in your eyes that name would carry more gravitas.

Cheers