Independents

is starting to become one of my favorite independent watchmakers: he manages to merge viciously cool designs immediately identifiable as his, interesting complications, real horology in conception and implementation (he may not be Swiss but this man was working in the Parmigiani’s complication and bespoke workshops where only one other watchmaker had the talent to work in: Kari Voutilainen. He also worked in prototyping and assembly at Christophe Claret whose least complicated movement is a tourbillon chronograph!! Believe me Sarpaneva is a not a good watchmaker but a GREAT one) and at prices where you don’t need to sell an organ to finance his watches and probably one of the best bang for your buck for someone looking for a horological watch, with a bold design and something you won’t see on some one else’s wrist.

 

At Basel fair this year I was visiting Stepan he showed me this really cool watch with a testosterone injected version of his signature moon face covering almost 4/5^th of the dial, the time being read via wandering hours at the bottom.

 

My first words were “I want to order one “followed by “hi Stepan how are you”.  This is the conversation that followed:

 

Him: it’s just a test, I don’t think I’ll make one

 

Me: don’t play with my nerves, then why the hell are you showing this?

 

Him: It’s a conversation piece, I’m just testing reactions, don’t think I will make it.

 

Me: but I want one

 

Him: Get out of my booth weirdo

 

I did get out but returned the next day with my friend Alberto, Stepan had been out partying with his buddies from AHCI and was in a lets say more “open to discussion” state and we even started talking about how to implement a funky moonphase display in the watch.

 

My friend Alberto had ordered a special unique version of the Harvest Moon and was due to pick it up in August. I mailed Stepan saying that I was coming to Helsinki to pick up the watch with the big moon face, later to be named the Moonshine. Stepan wasn’t sure that he wanted to make one and he didn’t want to make it in steel.

 

Aaaarrrrrrgggggg!!!!!

 

To make a long story short we went back and forth and Stepan accepted to make a Moonshine in steel  -RG  with the dark grey moon would also be a killer IMHO – but I wanted a steel case with a sand blasted finish (don’t ask him to make you a steel sand blasted case coz it’s mine J ) and we all agreed to meet up in Helsinki to pick up our watches.

 

I hadn’t been this excited about a watch since my Simplicity in 2004! I was literally counting the days to get there and had even asked Stepan NOT to send pictures to keep the surprise.

 

 

 Time had come and ready to fly:

Greeted at the Airport by 2/3 of ZZ Top 

 

Stepan's workshops are at what used to be a Nokia cable factory turned into offices and workshops

 

On Stepan's floor there are many artists and designer who have their workshops and some exhibit

 

Stepan is a one man show who makes only 20 watches a year! His workshops look like anything but a traditional watchmakers' workshop.

 

A Harley emblem made into a lamp!

 components for his watches, Stepan works mostly on Soprod ebauches which he completely reworks from A to Z

 
DLC plated mainplates

the movement rings are all circular grained and certain gold plated

 

his garage? no where he does the sand blasting!

 

milling the plates

 

My friend Alberto had graced us with some amazing bottles so before seeing our watches we decided to celebrate the moment.

 

 

Alberto's unique Harvest Moon all black, with black grills and hands. The case is DLC coated and look graphite color not black. Gorgeous!

 

the box

 

My Moonshine

 

a prtototype of a DLC Moonshine 
 

 

Black Moonshine and Harvest Moon

The new KO diving watch 

 

A Rose gold/DLC K1

 

The stunning Supernova which is now sold out

 

K3

 

Stepan meditating

 

We decided to continue celebrating with another amazing wine, Italian this time, sweet with a slight taste of apricot and safron!

 

the wine was the same color as the dial of Stepan's K2!

 

I didn't know Stepan was in the Guiness Book of Records

 

We decided to continue celebrating in a nearby restaurant

 with scrumptious Finnish food

and more drinks

 

two happy owners

 

and as they say, "What goes on in Helsinki, stays in Helsinki"

 

42mm  sand blasted steel case: 

The movement of the Moonshine is a heavily modified Soprod A10. The canon pinion and senconds axis have been shortened and polished as to have the regular hand replaced by an hours disk with an incredible 0.15mm thickness. The mainplate has been modified to fit the moonphase wheel (consisting of 2 semi-circular sections filled will luminous material) which is bigger than the movement itself and placed under the hours disk. The moonphase indication is linked to what used to be the date mechanism but modified to have 59 teeth rather than 31. This way the moonphase can be set via the crown.

 

26mm moon compared to the already large moon on the K3

2 semi sectors filled with luminous material placed under the hours disk indicate the phases of the moon

 

on the right the steel mon face on the left after it has been oxydized and brushed to give it the final dark look

 

top plate with fine perlage

the hours disk which is only 0.15mm thick!

Reading the time is quie easy, the diamon shaped indicator at 6 points to the time, the hours turn clockwise.  Each "bar represents a 15min increment whereas the star is a 30 miute increment.

Its 10:

10.15

 

10.30

same with the moonphase, the luminous material will start enering the frame, here it is a rising moon:

 

full moon

wanning moon:

 

In the dark the luminous material shine's brightly with a really cool effect whan it is new or wanning moon as it shines through the grill on the sides of the moon.

 

Stepan hand finishes the buckles as well. Here hi new deployant buckle

steel grill design with gold moonface

The 42mm notched case sits perfectly on the wrists and due to its shape it doesn’t look too big. The time reading gets about 30 mins getting used to. And what a watch! Like no other!

 

Speaking with Dufour about Sarpaneva he had the following words “A great watchmaker and his designs are so pure”. Have to give it to him that each year Sarpaneva manages to surprise me with watches that don’t have bells and whistles, who can look simple but are laden with immense details and attention to the details are fantastically well made with bold and visually innovative designs.

the watch box:

Hi Alex, congrats on this stunning piece ! It just looks amazing.
The concept is pretty unique and there isn't much more i can say about (still a bit drooling over my keyboard right now) .

I believe you will enjoy this one for a long period !

Cheers,

Filip

What a beautiful watch and I cannot imagine a better way to receive a new watch than directly from the creator in his atelier. 

So what else happened in Helsinki?  LOL.

Best,

respo

...on that one!!!

Good to see another watch owner with a beautiful Sarpaneva on his wrist. I hope to see many wristshots... and a lumeshot
Congrats and wear it in good health!

PS. did Stepan offer you gasoline to drink?

 

 such joyful report , and such a unique watch" i always use  unique to discribe stepans watches"  however i believe thats the suitable word to use after all . again looking to it in the context it was meant to be in  just makes me feel more and more fascinated .

 

 Thanks for sharing.

 

 Faisal

That is a brilliant looking watch.

- SJX

Many great ideas in that watch.  Especially the moon phase intrigues me.
I'm surprised though that you picked wine to drink and not moonshine!
Don


PS: for those who haven't seen it, to get into the Helsinki feeling, a link to my visit to Stepans shop for the introduction of the Black Moon last year:

Helsinki Black Moon Ceremony

Helsinki Ceremony Follow Up
-

I'm very happy to see you persuaded him to go ahead and make it. I didn't know it had a moonphase indicator when I looked in Basel, so that is a big bonus and makes sense!

Love to see a picture of the lume in a darkened arena if possible???

Congrats & Cheers,

Tim

and a great trip...what a way to pick up a watch...congrats

wear it in good health

Thanks Alex,

That Hours Disk is a work of art by itself. Great report and I now have a better understanding of how the Moonshine is put togetether.

Looks like the three of you had a brilliant time, which is what this hobby, and dealing with independents, is all a about.

Brilliant post.

Andrew

Alex:

With the skill of your interactions, the craft you bring to the creation of the design and the balance of commitment and humor, Stepan and you have exemplified the definition of Independent Watchmaker and Collector of Independent Watches with the wonderful "Moonshine".

Thank you, Alex, for communicating with such joy, exactly why we all do this "independent thing."

Terry Opdendyk

Great pick up and nice read.

Very interesting & attractive watch.  Can you also elaborate a bit on the strap?    Love it!

No message body

If so, could you PM me the details?

... its nice to see watchmakers that dares. Any idea what is the strap made off. Very nice and suits the watch perfectly
Thanks for the post

As the owner of a Sarpaneva, I love it!

Love the sand blasted finish on those timepieces, it makes them look very nice.  Nice crown and case design.

 

It looks great on the wrist.

 

 

Congrats!

 

 

Thanks.

 

 

 

 

Vte

.... this Big Moon Face deserves to exist !!!!

Thanks Alex for this complete and appealing report !

Congratulation to both Alberto and Alex for their (not that) audacious orders !!!

Alberto, this Sarpaneva will help you to wait for your very special Antiqua you asked Vianney to make for you (He didn't say no but he didn't say when ;-) !!!)

Cheers.

Philippe

One day, my friend, one day... but I WILL have it on my wrist!!!

...I could not help but order from Stepan that black DLC-cased Moonshine you see in the pictures!!

looks like an amazing time you had. Thanks for this story.

and fantastic watch. Congratulations Alex and Alberto. Wow, to be met at the airport by the man who made your watches, that is truly priceless. The Moonshine is a real stunner. Seeing as yours is no. 6, is this a limited series as well?

You got two great watches from Stepan, lucky you !

I hope to be able to seen them son !

Fr.Xavier

Private french joke with Alex: the pics make me think about the sentence:

"Un barbu, c'est un barbu, trois barbus, c'est des barbouzes"

It won't get you punched in the mouth - if you pronounce it correctly

For the brave and the bold: sydämelliset onnittelut! Hearty congratulations!

amerix This message has been edited by amerix on 2010-08-17 01:39:42 This message has been edited by amerix on 2010-08-17 01:45:28 This message has been edited by amerix on 2010-08-17 01:49:21 This message has been edited by amerix on 2010-08-17 01:56:57

A memorable experience whilst collecting a special watch direct from the watchmaker. A pleasure to read this post.

Regards,

Richard.