Independents

The collection/watch is not new for De Bethune, it was already introduced last year to commemorate the manufacture's 10^th anniversary.
It is intended to offer a more affordable (well, with De Bethune that's a relative term ;-)) but fully fledged 'De Bethune experience',
i.e. all the chronometric and design elements are there:




In our Basel 2012 report we wrote: 

"The dial is wonderfully sculptured and three-dimensional. It certainly exudes the class of vintage pocketwatches of the likes of a Breguet or Leroy. The central date hand reminds of a geographical instrument, a sextant for example."

... and out

So let´s have a closer look …

… at the blue dial first.

The concave shape of the dial with the 12 polished steel spherical hour markers, the upward pointing titanium bridge
and the stars (white gold or diamonds) from the night sky brings out the depth of the dial and the strong blue color very well.

With that kind of surrounding the moon is not that spectacular any more, but the icing on the cake.

It´s like a piece of art, isn´t it?

As mentioned above, the case and its iconic lugs are known and nothing is wrong with that.

With all those attention on the dial, what goes on at the back side?

The movement is not new but shows some new blue details as well. Of course therefore a transparent back is needed
for appreciating the latter. Especially the blue (steel?) bridge is very tempting and helps to get a fair amount of attention
when the watch is not on the wrist.

On the wrist it feels as comfortable as all their family members with that kind of skeletonized floating lugs.

Once more a picture to show where the inspiration for some of the details could come from and because dream watches
and dream cars work well together

 

DB28TiS8

De Bethune presented us this limited version of the DB28TiS8 (50 pieces). At first sight we thought this is an existing
watch. It carries (almost) all the looks of the special edition 'Aiguille d'Or' like a case made of matte Grade 5 titanium,
the black movement plates and the mirror-polished central plate...

... or the silver dial ring. But there is a decisive difference!



... and here it is:

The minute hand lacks the red gold insert and the allover black case and lugs remind us to another version the “Special
Edition” with anthracite zirconium floating lugs. Some changed details but we think it complements the watch well.

 

Different to most pieces from the current DB28 collection you will find a display back. The back sight is dominated by
the power reserve mechanism with - like the said Aiguille d´Or version - a red gold power reserve rack:

The remaining autonomy is indicated by a gauge on the back. But this is not the only power reserve indication...

Like all DB28 watches also this one has floating lugs who's end pieces carry the characteristic ogival lugs
(that's how they used to call them, now they use the word 'conical', but we like to older designation better
- its more special - as are the watches!), here in matt anthracite zirconium:

The case itself has clear lines with the 'balcony' for the moon phase ball as an accent.



Fitting to the materials chosen the watch makes a light appearance on the wrist.

From the same collection we saw this fascinating tourbillon model with a red gold case and polished Grade 5 titanium lugs.

De Bethune's 30" tourbillon with silicium balance below polished steel movement plates.

We also got to see the DB28T version entirely made of polished titanium. Here we think that the black works much
better than in the DB27, partly because the watch itself has much more sui generis tension and 'drama'.







The tourbillon cut-out has a bezel with a seconds scale, and the tourbillon cage has a seconds hand as well.

One might think it is the same as with the DB28TiS8 above. A closer inspection indeed tells us that this is not the case:
the flat lever beneath the hand is missing, and ...

While we are at this: The manufacture must have spent considerable time on the dial design. We loved how different
materials, surface treatments, colours and finishes create an eye-catching event. 

Conclusions

De Bethune still feels like a Think Tank with associated production skills extraordinaire, but these days we see more
smart evolutions instead of a “revolution” every day. In times when nobody really needs a mechanical watch (and especially
not in this price range), it is great to have a company that allows you to dream and that´s what they do best – at least to us.
Their strengths are that they clearly seem to have a vision, a strong DNA shown in all of their products and lots of passion
for what they do. Plus, they seem to be very well experienced and educated in all areas of visual arts.

In other words:

De Bethune is now what Breguet should have been (or could be...)!

Magnus :

Quality time with the people from De Bethune is always a dangerous liaison.  Too tempting are their creations, regardless of
model or collection. Can you say that for many manufacturers? I doubt it.

In the past (funny to say in the context of an 11 year old company) connoisseurs were literally bombarded with daring innovations
from La Chaux L'Auberson. Even if you would inspect timepieces made only a few months apart you could be sure that there was
something visibly different in the escapement. Lately, it seems that the technology has matured (noting this I recall that a few
PuristS have just made us aware that there seems to be a new material in the outer rim of the silicium balance...) and the team
has instead spent its efforts on the design.

Resulting from these efforts are a range of watches that covers 'classical' (in quotation marks because it has to be seen in the
context of De Bethune; DB16, 25), modern (DB27, 28) and exceptional pieces (Dream Watches).

Though vastly different they are all immediately recognisable as De Bethunes. This tremendous feat comes as as result of a small
group of dedicated people who really built only what they like. They do not need a common design element, they live from their
conceptual and aesthetic conciseness.

Back to the novelties seen in Geneva 2013: 

We have mostly seen design iterations this early time in the year...

I would call even the DB16 a design iteration as the basic ingredients are there. Thus, its like a complicate sibling to the famous DB15.
I like it a lot, its thrilling modern-yet-still-baroque charme combined with high-tech. De Bethune par excellence (provided the jumping
seconds hand gets a bit more precise).

I have to admit that I view the DB25 as one of the most sexy 'simple' watch in existence. She is teasing me so much that I might have to
give in and play the 'sugar daddy'. The new 40mm pieces make the collection accessible to women or men with smaller wrists which is
a good thing. I can only estimate the R&D costs of De Bethune, they must be substantial. So if they can be shouldered by more people
(=buyers) I am all for it, I want De Bethune continue innovating at high speed (and if even only to satisfy my intellectual curiosity).

The situation is slightly different with the DB25L where the issue of size is compounded with different dial designs, surface treatments etc.
Compared with the simple DB25s the cases are thicker which has again repercussion on the diameter question. So far I am overwhelmed
with those combinations of differences and I cannot (yet) come to a conclusion. It needs a second try.

I appreciate the DB27 as a magnificent entry watch into the De Bethune world. Its well-specced, comfortable and has all the bells & whistles
De Bethune has on offer. The essential De Bethune? Maybe but so far only in the salmon or the silver dial. Black somehow does not work
for me, its too restrained. And i probably would prefer a more daring dial design to complement the case construction.

Finally, the DB28. The Skywalk demonstrates how far out-of-the-box Mr Zanetta and Mr Flagoellot can think without - and this is important!
- doing it for the sake of making a statement. There is an intrinsic logic in the design that comes from the emphasis of 3-dimensionality in
the De Bethune collection. And despite this I have to concede that the Skywalk  is not my watch. I can't see a watch with an expressly
concave dial on my wrist no matter how I try.

The remainder of the DB28 collection brings those little bit of extra thrill that makes both dial and case a heavenly match (compared to the DB27).

So that's where I stand now. But there is still the BaselWorld show where another exhibit of De Bethune will take place. Tough times! 

Oliver :

DB16 – this one is a De Bethune at its best, with lots of amazing details and DNA. I like the somehow “provocative” description Regulator,
in that case. It is a piece a collector can be proud of, but it is not made for me. Not that I don´t like it, but there are other watches in the
collection which I prefer.

The new smaller DB25´s in RG or WG, with or without power reserve indication, hand-wound or automatic movement … it is just a matter
of taste/lifestyle and you can´t go wrong with any of them. Why? Simply because they are all outstanding and beautiful - especially for such
kind of simple watches.

Some may say “Hey, it is just a simple watch and they ask a fortune for it.”

Yes, but there are not that many competitors out there to compare – if there are some. Not with that kind of attention to any detail and in that
price range. You get the spirit of watchmaking in the 18th century, plus innovations from the 21st century and everything in a simple,
wearable and understated watch. 40mm instead of 44mm is just the cream on top for those who prefer or need it like this and it should help
to increase the target group easily.

DB 25L - an outstanding watch in any case and pure romance. No matter which size you choose. A strength and a weakness, at the same time,
comes to my mind. This watch or shall I say piece of art is one that is great for dreaming, but maybe not for working as it gets (probably) too
much attention - especially from the owner

DB27 – especially with the new salmon dial it is more tempting than ever before, but I just don´t get the “hole” on the back out of my head.
One has to appreciate what they can do on their movements and therefore I ask for more to see. Only could imagine that watch in my collection,
when having more than one De Bethune already.

DB28 – probably THE showcase of De Bethune at the moment and highly desirable in general. Somehow I lost the track about the number of
versions and the latest one is not my favorite.

DB28 Skybridge – for quite a few people it was the star of the show. It is an impressive piece of art which gets lots of attention - easily.

Ciao, ciao

Magnus & Oliver

That´s what we saw at De Bethune in Geneva this year, beautiful watches inside the hotel and
a drop dead gorgeous car in front of the hotel. Nothing was mentioned about De Bethune on the car
(at least not from outside), but it was not that difficult to see if you know the people from De Bethune.

Daydreaming – after so much toy´s it is easy to do, isn´t it?

Take one of those marvelous watches and put it on your wrist. Next thing to do is to go to your
sports car parking outside, with a big smile in your face.

You are smiling because you already know what comes next. Next is some extra time for fun only
and the plan to go from Geneva via Wallis, Engadin to Tessin (Italy). Of course not on the high-way,
but on the Alps. Alpine passes to be correct – e.g. Albula, Flüela, Maloja, Gotthardpass, Simplon,
San-Bernardino-Pass … and a few more – depending on time.

A Mercedes 300 SLR (vintage) would be super cool to do the trip, but something simple like a Porsche
550 Spyder should be nice as well …

OK, ok even daydreaming asks for some reality (at least if you try to make it happen one day …)
and therefore something more affordable/reasonable could do the job as well.

The new Porsche Cayman (S) could be a nice candidate. It shares (at least) the spirit with the
550 Spyder (the first mid-engined Porsche), not to mention the Porsche 904 …

Soulful driving with a soulful watch on your wrist. Hard to beat!

But even this can be topped, by meeting some PuristS in Geneva and then sharing the whole
experience ... the whole trip.

What would life be without dreams?!