Horological Meandering

The warm color of red gold allows to highlight case details in curves or different round levels in the bezel.

The colder color of Pt or steel is much combined with strait lines IMHO.

For white gold, I prefer when possible the Pd 210 instead of standard Pd180 as the higher concentration of Palladium looks more white as Pt.

My 2 cents,

Cheers,

Patrickh

Or one of these LE Rose Gold Reversos. 

Other than that, white metal, exceptionally one or two black one, and one metal I am really fond of... Tantalum, with its grey blue hue... THAT I am hunting / dreaming about desperately. 

Best,

Nicolas

My watches until I was maybe 30, not yet into watch making, were always considered to be in steel. The rose or yellow gold didn't interest me and concerned more 40 or 50+ tastes. It was more about yellow gold at that time as i didn't hear or saw rose gold watches at that time.

When I came into watches, nearly 10 years ago, the view I had of this subject evolved significantly. It shows the difference between being in the field and someone outside this watch little world.

Then, I started to compare steel with yellow gold. However, as soon as I started visitng ADs, I found very quickly that yellow gold looked outdated to me and that rose gold was very nice. The impact of the nicer color I think but also the fact rose gold was clearly the more modern color compared to yellow. Hence, I still don't like yellow gold today and, after trying recently novetlies in yellow gold, I'm stil on the same line. No real come back of yellow gold at least today for me.

At the beginning, I didn't see the interest of having WG or Pt compared to steel. Why paying more for the same and heavier color. I didn't get the shade differences and the "luxury" status.

Now, I still love RG but like WG and Pt as well.

This being said, the main reason why I would consider a watch is how it looks either in RG or in a white metal. What counts is mainly how the watch looks, not the color. Thus, some watches I see are more appealing to me in RG and others are better in white metals. And there are some where I can't easily decide, thus I would generally prefer the white metal as more discreet (I use my watches as daily wearers for 1 to more than 10 months periods thus I may prefer a little more discretion).

I can't say I would prefer rose gold for classical watches (as for instance a 3-hand Calatrava) and white metal for sportier ones. I love Patek's lighter rose gold color and this is something that I find very attracting in their watches.

The problem of white metals is that some watches are sometimes a little "boring" or lack of something (especially in silver). Rose gold brings warmth and you feel when you wear it that it has comething more.

So, no preference between RG and white metals. I don't really have a preference in terms of color between WG and Pt either even if I usually would tend to prefer the warmer WG. Steel is nice for sport watches, tool watches or if they are polished in classical watches.

I guess this shows how subjective it is to me: colors combinations, weight, discretion etc...

In the end, 1st the watch and in 2nd position, the material color.

Interesting topic Joe.

Best, Mark

As I am sure you know, many types/ models/ reference of watches, whether gold, stainless steel, etc. only came in one metal. For instance if one is drawn to vintage tool watches, there is hardly going to be a choice.

In fact having a choice is a rare occurance in the vintage world. Yes, Bubblebacks or Princes can be found in the different colours, but it not as if one is presented with different options at the same time every time. Gold, rose gold or white gold have their own charm. I think much depends on the overall presentation of the watch, its condition, etc. before considering the issue of the colour or the metal. It is clear that gold, whether yellow, rose or white have their charm and impart a clear sense of luxurury. All this is very relative, as the perception of what is rare, desirable and luxurious can change over time. We all know the effect of inverted snobbery there is towards some rare steel cased watches. Yes, a steel Patek or Vacheron chronograph can be more desirable than a gold version of the same model. Most people nowadays tend to avoid precious metals when it comes to vintage, I am certainly not. Besides its esthetic appeal, that sometimes simply cannot be beaten, I like the fact that after the great depression and the flooding of the market with stainless steel cases, gold pieces became pretty much the exception. I am not talking about Patek nor Vacheron, but about the commoners. Buying gold pieces of those other makes were pretty much the exception. In the early 1920's about half of the luxury watches sold were made of precious metal (including silver), some 20 years later, it was only one in 20 watches. I tend to think that those watches had and still have a special added value. Those are just two of many examples of our appreciation of what is best is influences by what we know... not just what we like. Well I'll rephrase that, what we like is always conditioned by culture.

I agree whith what is written above by others. Why limiting oneself to only white gold, yellow gold, pink gold, platinum and steel?

Some brands of today do not even propose steel. Would we not miss something important if did not add titanium when considering the offerings of a brand such as, say, de Bethune? And, am I only going to limit myself to dB's polished, plain titanium? What about their blued titanium cases? What about theier black zirconium treated cases? Is it possible to consider the ROOs of AP and watches made for example by RM without looking at their line of cases made of composite materials? Is there out there amateurs who only collect saphire cases? ;-) Etc., etc.

Examples abound. I possess a vintage Heuer chronograph with screw back from the early 1950's that is neither white, gold nor pink gold. I'd call it champagne gold, a bit akin to some of ALS pieces. I feel there is a very large variation in the different types of yellow gold cases. Sometimes I can be in doubt whether the watch in front of me or even on my wrist is of yellow or pink/ rose gold.

Do I prefer one type of metal more than another? I do not know. I love platinum. My wedding ring is made of platinum. Yet, I do not possess a watch with a platinum case.

I tend to prefer steel or white gold  because they tend to be much more discrete to wear. Having said that, much depends of the size of the watch, whether it comes with a bracelet of matching metal or not... in some instances, for the right occasion, I feel that yellow or pink gold is very appropriate and cannot be beaten. In my mind there is not much difference between yellow and rose gold. They are both rather showy. 

The first piece that I commissioned from a independant watchmaker had in my mind to be of white gold. That is not to say that I chose that watch because of the colour of its case. Far form it, in this case the movement and the dial came first. Subsequent pieces from the same watchmaker happened to be sometimes of the same colour and sometimes not.. I guess I like variety, but I also like to consider what I feel is best for the brief in question. The colour of the metal, as well as its finish, is just one of many aspects.