Short review of my latest acquisition - the Ming Watches 17.01
While we all like to believe to be masters of our own destinies, sometimes life throws us a curve ball. And while mine - of late 2016 - was fortunately not of the kind that will derail my further life unduly, it did result in the watch budget being drained, all the way into deep red territory. Still, exceptions can sometimes be managed (the P15 is one I am very grateful for). At the same time, curve balls come in different shapes and forms - some truly positive, too. Enter the Ming Watches 17.01 - a surprise in both the sense that I did not anticipate any further watches this year, and in what it is.
The feature likely to remain most memorable, though, is the dial. The two layer / three disc sapphire dial is - for want of a better word - truly mesmerising. The lower / inner layer displays a 'digital guilloche' and is visible in the center section, inwards of the hour ring. The outer layer, visible under the hour ring, has - depending on the play of light - slight circular brushing, or appears relatively uniform in colour. Then there is the sapphire donut inbetween.
...And going to a much more mellow difference in other light conditions. With a certain amount of patience and wrist gymnastics it is possible to find an angle, where the dial looks uniformly blue. It certainly ensures you have your own source of fascination / entertainment on your wrist, irrespective of how dull the meeting / gathering is that you are attending. Certainly one to captivate beyond a brief honeymoon period, and for the moment quite unique, in my humble opinion.
The hour ring is the next very prominent element. All numerals are attached to a single ring, which floats just above the outer sapphire dial. This allows a further play of light and shadows to take place, as the numerals clearly project shadows onto the dial, giving a greater impression of depth. They are - like the hands - kept in uniform white. And to perhaps instill a further reminder of the circularity of time, you will find a 0, rather than 12 at the 12 o'clock position.
The 17.01 is the first watch from this 'new', Malaysia based brand and it has been a truly positive surprise for me. I understand that the founder - Ming Thein - used to be quite active in the early days here, before expanding his activities in areas as diverse as management consulting, professional photography and theoretical physics. At some point the desire to design and commission a piece from start to finish - as opposed to simply advising - must have won out, and here is the first result.
The 17.01 is a relatively classically sized, two hand time only piece at 38mm x 9,3mm. While some major brands are back to dipping their toes in the under 40mm size range, one can still call this refreshing.
The 17.01 is a relatively classically sized, two hand time only piece at 38mm x 9,3mm. While some major brands are back to dipping their toes in the under 40mm size range, one can still call this refreshing.
At the same time the case is made from a less than traditional Grade 5 titanium for both its durability and hypoallergenic properties. The case is polished on top and brushed on the sides and back. In spite of the relatively lightweight material, the watch does not completely 'disappear' on the wrist - i.e. you will feel it but not in an unpleasant, boat anchor manner (whether weight is a virtue or vice in a watch is of course a matter of personal perspective).
The lugs are short and sharply downturned, making for a pleasant fit on a large variety of wrists. And you are unlikely to miss the extra millimeters in size - the proportions are spot on. The lug shape is relatively complex, with the outer edges flaring out, so as to better accommodate the curved pins of the quick change strap mechanism. Taken all together, this conspires to a pleasing look, as seen on my wrist below.
The feature likely to remain most memorable, though, is the dial. The two layer / three disc sapphire dial is - for want of a better word - truly mesmerising. The lower / inner layer displays a 'digital guilloche' and is visible in the center section, inwards of the hour ring. The outer layer, visible under the hour ring, has - depending on the play of light - slight circular brushing, or appears relatively uniform in colour. Then there is the sapphire donut inbetween.
Speaking of which - the watch is available with a blue and anthracite dial options (mine being blue).
The following two pictures will better demonstrate what I mean than any explanation I could concoct. Starting with a very sharply defined contrast between the layers...
...And going to a much more mellow difference in other light conditions. With a certain amount of patience and wrist gymnastics it is possible to find an angle, where the dial looks uniformly blue. It certainly ensures you have your own source of fascination / entertainment on your wrist, irrespective of how dull the meeting / gathering is that you are attending. Certainly one to captivate beyond a brief honeymoon period, and for the moment quite unique, in my humble opinion.
The hour ring is the next very prominent element. All numerals are attached to a single ring, which floats just above the outer sapphire dial. This allows a further play of light and shadows to take place, as the numerals clearly project shadows onto the dial, giving a greater impression of depth. They are - like the hands - kept in uniform white. And to perhaps instill a further reminder of the circularity of time, you will find a 0, rather than 12 at the 12 o'clock position.
The hands are of a 'modern' dauphine shape and kept fully white, too - again not a common choice. The hour hand is actually recessed to the level that it lies below the outer sapphire disc, while the minute hand just brushes past the numerals.
The design of all the individual elements in my eyes conspires to a pretty unique, very coherent whole.
Movement wise, the watch comes with a Sellita SW210-1 hand wound movement. While the basic specs of 4Hz and 42h power reserve (mine seems to easily exceed that so far) are relatively straightforward, the movement does offer a handful of surprises. Including a hacking function, in spite of lacking a running seconds hand. In addition, it gets tested in five positions for 250h to ensure a high level of accuracy.
Lastly, my wearing impressions. The 38mm have not been a problem at all for me - the watch fitting just right. It easily dresses up or down, and I am sure you could extend its versatility even further with a croc or a rubber strap, to cover events all the way from formal to a dip in the pool (the WR is certainly adequate enough for the latter). And I have to say it definitely provides pleasure and fascination way beyond what one would usually expect from the price, while offering a very respectable quality from the very first batch - something we rightly expect from long established brands but which is a testament to some true dedication, when talking about the first product from a start-up company.
Movement wise, the watch comes with a Sellita SW210-1 hand wound movement. While the basic specs of 4Hz and 42h power reserve (mine seems to easily exceed that so far) are relatively straightforward, the movement does offer a handful of surprises. Including a hacking function, in spite of lacking a running seconds hand. In addition, it gets tested in five positions for 250h to ensure a high level of accuracy.
The crown is finely knurled, making winding easy and pleasant. Certainly not a watch failing to give adequate feedback on what you are doing. I can definitely see the morning winding routine turning into a pleasant part of my life with the piece. Fortunately the three gaskets on the crown also allow a 100m WR without necessitating a screw down design - the latter being anything but a joy on hand wound watches IMHO.
Another very refreshing feature is the strap choice. Not that you will get countless options supplied from the brand at the moment. What you will get, though, is three straps with every watch - a honey coloured one, a burgundy and a navy blue one are all part of the package. All three come with pin buckles attached and with quick change pins, making switching between them quick and simple - and something that one can practicably do on a daily basis, if sartorial choices so require. This is especially pleasant, since the straps are curved case side, which might be much more of a bother with conventional, non-quick change pins.
Lastly, my wearing impressions. The 38mm have not been a problem at all for me - the watch fitting just right. It easily dresses up or down, and I am sure you could extend its versatility even further with a croc or a rubber strap, to cover events all the way from formal to a dip in the pool (the WR is certainly adequate enough for the latter). And I have to say it definitely provides pleasure and fascination way beyond what one would usually expect from the price, while offering a very respectable quality from the very first batch - something we rightly expect from long established brands but which is a testament to some true dedication, when talking about the first product from a start-up company.
While the value for money is definitely spot on, the question remains what this means in absolute terms. At this price level a bespoke, in-house movement is of course out of the question. The case finishing - of a titanium case here - will easily compare to Swiss brands costing several times as much (especially the polished part), while the brushed part will not be quite up to Grand Seiko, zaratsu levels. But then again - very different price range.
The dial is unique and difficult to compare, while the hands, in spite of being nicely made will not quite stack up to what you may be used to from PP, VC or the like.
Finally the straps. The three strap package (with three pin buckles) is a great idea, and in my opinion a correct choice. The fact that at this price level you cannot add three straps of haute horlogerie provenance should be kept in mind, though - and is fully logical.
Overall I still feel this to be a watch I will gladly wear without a feeling of having settled. Maybe not to the opera but then I would not wear my divers there, either. And overall I find the quality good enough to compare the watch with competitors costing several times as much - but naturally it cannot be the same as in watches costing ten or more times so.
So at least this curve ball resulted in quite a positive surprise. In a way I could describe this as my first independent, even if we are not quite talking AHCI level here. And it has been an unexpected addition to my watch stable but certainly one I am very happy with.
Thank you for reading!
Great review from an amazing new watch. Hope to be able to purchase one, hell would even love both colors [nt]
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Not seen the anthracite live yet...
But from pictures it appears similarly alluring, even if quite different. The digital guilloche comes out stronger on it, though.
Thanks for the great review. Wonder how the Ming blue will stack up against the Lundis Bleus enamel Royal Blue which is priced at CHF 1850.
Actually contemplating both.
You're welcome, Sake!
Cannot really give you an answer to your question, though - since I have not yet seen the Lundis Bleus. But a good point to check it out - thanks 
The third picture is stunning
Thanks for the review
Hope to get one too
My first choice is also the blue 😀
Hope to get one too
My first choice is also the blue 😀
I only hope the 38mm is big enough for me
Cause I always said.... nothing under 40 for my wrist
But I've read it looks a bit bigger than 38 because of the big dial vs not so thick bezel
But I've read it looks a bit bigger than 38 because of the big dial vs not so thick bezel
That is the other side of the coin...
Direct distribution means a lower overall cost - as you do not have retail and wholesale layers involved - but unfortunately also means that trying it on before making a decision is sadly much more difficult. Do hope it fits though
The points re. dial and bezel are true.
But bear in mind the lugs are short and curved.
I generally find that kind of lug more universal...
In terms of what wrists it fits. But I know that different people have different preferences in that respect 👍🏻
Even a blind hen finds a worm...
Or something of that sort - my poor photography sadly isn't improving fast enough
But that one did seem to work better than the others, hence also chosen for the front picture of the post
Thanks!
But that one did seem to work better than the others, hence also chosen for the front picture of the post
Thanks!
Huge congratulations my friend 👏👍 Great and in depth review of your new Ming. I'm really pleased to see the blue dial one even if it's only in pictures (may be one day in real 😉)
You're the fourth Purists to own this rare timepiece and the first one with a blue dial if I'm right. This timepiece will become a the new blockbuster at this rate.
Best wishes
Alkiro
Best wishes
Alkiro
Definitely coming to a GTG near you ;)
On a more serious note, it is a very intriguing watch - and one I am very much looking forward to placed next to your FP Journe Chronometre Bleu for a twin shot
Thanks Alkiro!
I thought about this possibility too. Definitely a cool shot to take 👍😉
Best wishes
Alkiro
Alkiro
Deal done 👍
I'm really interested in seeing this one in real. You know, 38mm and such a mesmerising blue dial are, especially, really my taste 😉
Best wishes
Alkiro
Best wishes
Alkiro
Hehe we'll do that together my friend for sure 😉
You have the Ming, I have the FPJ CB and we both know good tartare spots.
Best wishes
Alkiro
Best wishes
Alkiro
Thanks for this thorough review, KM.
This is a very interesting story, and the watch is quite good-looking.
As I am about to extend the number of people to pass on watches to in the PP sense...
I was hoping for you making another sausage tasting tour in the dual monarchy...
Very nice pictorial & also very comprehensive review !.. Well done.. So do I interpret this, that "only" your blue has arrived yet ?
.. Either way, your pic 3 is really awesome & well chosen.
Most if not all your points are spot on; a more than interesting newcomer,
that's for sure.
I'll also be curious about possible future models issued by the
Micro-brand..
A last little thing fromHumble me: as this is a 2-hand,
Time only watch, I wouldn't mind if it had a second hand.
Also, cos one doesn't see anything ,through the caseback
eg. to check if it is running.
Alltogether however, I am very happy with my
Anthracite version.
Best, hs
Most if not all your points are spot on; a more than interesting newcomer,
that's for sure.
I'll also be curious about possible future models issued by the
Micro-brand..
A last little thing fromHumble me: as this is a 2-hand,
Time only watch, I wouldn't mind if it had a second hand.
Also, cos one doesn't see anything ,through the caseback
eg. to check if it is running.
Alltogether however, I am very happy with my
Anthracite version.
Best, hs
I hear you...
On a seconds hand as an indicator, whether it's running. But then again one hears it's heartbeat
Glad you liked the review and that you largely share the verdict. As for arrived, depends on the serial number and when they are ready
Glad you liked the review and that you largely share the verdict. As for arrived, depends on the serial number and when they are ready
Booming
Nice watch indeed and thank for adding your review.
I was surely too late recognizing its potential but still hope to have a chance to encounter somewhere soon.
Cheers,
Kolosstt
I was surely too late recognizing its potential but still hope to have a chance to encounter somewhere soon.
Cheers,
Kolosstt
Are they all sold out?
Or is it only the current batch?
A nice piece at any rate and glad if the review was helpful!
A nice piece at any rate and glad if the review was helpful!
