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For the "bigger" brands, JLC, due to their complete competence....but
on a smaller scale, Akrivia, for their amazing finish and craft.
-Dean
-Dean
It’s so subjective
But I’ve always enjoyed the earlier stuff by Lange and Patek. Also vintage Rolex and very selectively some modern pieces. On the independent front I’m a big lover of Laurent Ferrier’s and Kari’s earlier stuff, also Frodsham. Cartier has finally made its way into my stable. From a design perspective they are truly unique and enduring.
My preferences revolve mainly around wearability (size), aesthetics (timelessness), utility (function) and perhaps to some extent, rarity.
Best
Gatsby
My preferences revolve mainly around wearability (size), aesthetics (timelessness), utility (function) and perhaps to some extent, rarity.
Best
Gatsby
Obviously Patek for me on virtually every level (historic, mechanical, artistic, scientific, etc.), and the more I know the brand "up close"....the more I find myself madly in love with it! ;-)
Second, and perhaps also unsurprising, Rolex, which I always strongly admired for the same simple reasons that most collectors admire this Brand: the quality, reliability, and enormous success of its production. Let me just reiterate here that I'm sincerely grateful to Rolex and its ADs for access to a couple of pieces last year (let's call them a "boyfriend/girlfriend" gift that I exchanged with my lady ;-), at a time of enormous popularity for the Brand, even though my own Rolex collection is comparatively modest 
The only nontrivial part of my ranking is third place, where after some thought, I'm listing Cartier and Vacheron. I have no piece from either brand, but the more I watch other collectors' pictures and read their feedback, the more I am fascinated by Cartier's unique charm and glorious tradition in the broader world of luxury. Vacheron needs no publicity from me either, as it sits up there with Patek as a watch brand that has written the history of this discipline for over a century (or two ).
).To be as usual very honest, my only issue with both Cartier and VC has a common cause....for me like for many other collectors, developing a deep and well-rounded passion in horology has always come hand in hand with a natural attraction to brands that we can call "independents with history." This is the sole, admittedly "purist" reason why I have no Cartier or Vacheron in my collection.....at least until I decide to make one exception for each!
Cheers.
Two choices that are popular for a reason
The importance and quality of Rolex and PP are occasionally ignored by afficionados, amidst the bitterness surrounding hype culture and the popularity of icons like the 5711.
It's nonsense, there's a reason why their names are the golden standard.
The most unfortunate aspect of collecting such brands is the lack of availability and, at least to me, the safety concern that goes hand in hand with the broad reach that these household names have.
P.S. Einstein must have had a solid reason to choose a Patek over any other brand 🤓
Yep, when I see bitterness from some people just because they don't qualify for the more popular brands, I try to be understanding but it's honestly a bit sad.... But these are great points --- and I had forgotten about Einstein's Patek! :-)) Cheers.
Omega
From an accuracy and durability standpoint I believe they make the finest movements at any price. Astronauts wore them on the OUTSIDE of their spacesuits on the moon.
Parmigiani
To me there are few watches as sublime as the Hebdomaire in dark green.
Urwerk
Money be damned I want that atomic watch case!!!
Parmigiani
To me there are few watches as sublime as the Hebdomaire in dark green.
Urwerk
Money be damned I want that atomic watch case!!!
Great choices
Omega is my favorite too (with JLC), I've loved the brand since I was a child dreaming about being how cool it would be to live the life of James Bond and have cool gadgets like the seamaster. Every time I walk in the Omega boutique I feel like the child that I used to be, because there's an atmosphere of light hearted fun mixed with innovation.
Urwerk is uber cool, Parmigiani is class.
Urwerk is uber cool, Parmigiani is class.
100% agree
After 3 years my POC was off 3-6 seconds total. After 6 years I'm losing 1-2 seconds per month.
Here goes
I'll be hung and quartered now but I really love the older Hublot King Power/Oceanographic line a lot. Tough as f@@@ with wrist presence.
Hanging is currently out of fashion, while a provision against quartering is even explicitly enumerated since 1791 (at least if you are a "Soldier" and the "Owner" doesn't express "consent")....so I wouldn't be too worried if you like Hublot! ;-))
Seriously, modern textualist approaches and their....vital consequences aside, I do appreciate your interest and support for this Brand, which too often seems the favorite target of its detractors!
I actually believe Hublot has many more fans than critics, and while personally I'm not always a supporter, it's always great when someone recognizes and promotes this innovative Brand!
I actually believe Hublot has many more fans than critics, and while personally I'm not always a supporter, it's always great when someone recognizes and promotes this innovative Brand!
Cheers.
So many aspects to love about so many brands. Overall I would currently place FP Journe at the top of my list. I also admire the quality and craftsmanship of Lange, though I gravitate to their thinner-cased references.
I also like Vacheron for the overall quality and finish of their movements and their overall design language. Rolex, of course, makes some of the most robust and visually appealing pieces. And I think Greubel Forsey makes some incredibly compelling pieces, though likely out of my price range.
For more affordable watches, I greatly admire Oris for their independence and for their Cal. 400 movement, and Longines for some very stylish, attractive and attainable watches, especially their Heritage line.
Many other brands worth mentioning, especially Patek. But the first mentioned manufacturers above are at the top of my mind. Others that have pieces I admire in no particular order are MB&F, Gronefeld, Habring, Romain Gauthier, AP, Chopard LUC, Cartier and Grand Seiko.
Easy for me… Habring²
Habring² IMO is one of the most compelling brands in the world. A relatively small Independent (~200 watches a year) who are able to produce in house their own monopusher chronographs, pusherless chronographs, Rattrapante chronographs, jumping seconds watches, jumping seconds with Foudroyante… any of which can be ordered and delivered in less than 6 months and under $10,000.
If you are unfamiliar with Richard and Maria, search on YouTube “Producing a Proprietary Watch Movement by Maria and Richard Habring” so you can begin to understand their character. I believe them to be honest and authentic humans in addition to their incredible talent. I’m sure the same could be said for many of the Indies but for me the Habrings are the most impressive.
If you are unfamiliar with Richard and Maria, search on YouTube “Producing a Proprietary Watch Movement by Maria and Richard Habring” so you can begin to understand their character. I believe them to be honest and authentic humans in addition to their incredible talent. I’m sure the same could be said for many of the Indies but for me the Habrings are the most impressive.
Rolex, because Thomas Magnum made me dream with his 1675 GMT Robin MASTER, Jaeger Lecoultre because they intrigued me with their Memovoxes and Master Geographique,
Ulysse Nardin, because if they are pure horological wizards, Girard Perregaux with their exquisite Tourbillons with Bridges, Tudor with their vintage marvels and some very cool modern creations, Blancpain mostly because of their vintage Fifty Fathoms, Zenith because of the manual winding Cal 135 and the original El Primero Chronograph, Favre Leuba and its mythic Bathy 50, Bulova and its mythic UDT diver watch, Lemania mostly because of their marvelous chronographs, Longines for their vintage watches, Omega because of their holy trinity, Excelsior Park with their awesome vintage Chronos, Vacheron Constantin because of their refined vintage watches, Breguet for the Type XX, G.O because they make some really marvelous under rated watches, Lange because of a few of their watches are just wonderful, Jardur because nobody knows what they did, Universal Genève mostly because of their superb vintage chronos, Vulcain because of the Vintage Cricket Nautical....
Wow! That's a big list!
I have to research Jardur now 😅
I love most of the brands you listed, many of them are underdogs, undeservedly...
I love most of the brands you listed, many of them are underdogs, undeservedly...
I love underdogs. They are for true connoisseurs. Do a search on them, you will see, they made a lot of wonders. Much more interesting than the hyper hyped watches of our days...
