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Favorite Brand Census
Hi guys, I'm interested in seeing which brands rank among the most popular here. What are your favorite brands? Could you go as far as to explain your preference? I think it could be an interesting experiment.
Not the direct answer to your question but someone asked about MB&F on the Canadian watch forum not too long ago and my reply is fitting here.
What can I say about MB&F... Max Busser is the father of the independent watch movement. He started his career working at JLC and then moved over to Harry Winston to work on the Opus Project. I'm not sure if you are familiar with it but Google Harry Winston Opus. You will find some of the most incredibly innovative, unique watches ever made, and all 20 years before "independent" meant anything in the watch world.
Meet The Opus Eleven, for example:
Max noted that his coffee companion was such a talented watchmaker, yet no one knew his name. "Of course, I have NDA's with Patek, VC and all the others I've worked with. I am not allowed to talk about what I've made!" Said the watchmaker. This really shows one the state of mind of "big brands"...
Max said, "Well, you don't have an NDA with me. How about we make something together and you can show the world just what you can do!"
Meet The Opus Eleven, for example:
One story goes, when Busser with asked to create something different and to start the Opus project he was scratching his head unsure of what to do, so he started going to lunch with watchmakers he met during his time at JLC and talking to them about ideas. One day, he bumped into a watchmaker he had met at Patek and asked him if he had time for a coffee.
Max noted that his coffee companion was such a talented watchmaker, yet no one knew his name. "Of course, I have NDA's with Patek, VC and all the others I've worked with. I am not allowed to talk about what I've made!" Said the watchmaker. This really shows one the state of mind of "big brands"...
Max said, "Well, you don't have an NDA with me. How about we make something together and you can show the world just what you can do!"
(Not actual quotes, I'm paraphrasing).
And so not too long later, the Opus One was born:
Look familiar? That's because that watchmaker was FP Journe it was this watch that allowed FP Journe to break out and start his own company. The impact that this watch had on the world of independent watchmaking can not be overstated. This was during a time where Dufour struggled to sell a watch. Let that sink in. At this time, Dufour could not sell his Simplicity and cut the production of the Duality short due to low demand. How things have changed...
Max eventually left HW to start his own brand: B&F (Busser and Friends) where he would essentially continue what he was doing at HW - Working collaboratively with talent to highlight them. In a time where "in-house" was becoming the zeitgeist of the industry he was already moving back to going to specialized people for specialized things, and giving them credit. While everyone was looking at what's new, Max remained committed to what's best. After all, this is how watchmaking has been traditionally. And watchmaking, if nothing else, is about tradition.
When he worked towards incorporating he had to pivot the name - B&F was too close to B&R (Bell and Ross) his lawyer warned so the name had to be changed. In a twist like "dropping the The", he added Max and MB&F was born.
When I first heard about the brand it was on a web forum. I think it was around the time the HM3 came out. Although it wasn't my style, I absolutely saw it as an aspirational brand. Something that those that, "have made it" would own. Something a free thinking would wear. Something one who was not swayed by what the mass thought he should wear. Someone who was true to themselves. I wanted to be someone who one day felt they had "made it" and it was something that inspired me for years to come.
An anti-1984 watch, if you will. I've always seen the brand as square peg and Max as a crazy one; someone who dared to change the (watch) world.
In just 16 years they have produced 19 calibers. I'm not aware of any other brand that has ever produced as many (we aren't talking about modules here) different calibers in such a time. "JLC, watch a learn", is what Max seems to be saying.
For me, Max's youthful joie de vivre and zest for what's new, all while being contrasted with the utmost respect for the people that built modern watchmaking is very compelling. It is what draws me to the brand and the Man on a very personal level.
In 2020 I found some success in business - I took total controlling power over the company I started 10 years prior - and wanted to mark the time. I wanted to mark it with something that paid homage to the past, the past 10 years, but was also forward looking, what I could do with my company now. MB&F was a natural selection. I called Cellini in NY and placed an order.
With all the stuff that happened during that time, it took several months for my watch to make its way to me.
Max eventually left HW to start his own brand: B&F (Busser and Friends) where he would essentially continue what he was doing at HW - Working collaboratively with talent to highlight them. In a time where "in-house" was becoming the zeitgeist of the industry he was already moving back to going to specialized people for specialized things, and giving them credit. While everyone was looking at what's new, Max remained committed to what's best. After all, this is how watchmaking has been traditionally. And watchmaking, if nothing else, is about tradition.
When he worked towards incorporating he had to pivot the name - B&F was too close to B&R (Bell and Ross) his lawyer warned so the name had to be changed. In a twist like "dropping the The", he added Max and MB&F was born.
Max's vision was to consider what would watches not look like not next year, but in the next decade. And so was born the experimental "Horological Machines" line. A few years in, he again zigged when other zagged and started a line asking the question, "What would the great watchmakers of the past build if they were alive with today's technology?" And so we have the "Legacy Machines" line.
When I first heard about the brand it was on a web forum. I think it was around the time the HM3 came out. Although it wasn't my style, I absolutely saw it as an aspirational brand. Something that those that, "have made it" would own. Something a free thinking would wear. Something one who was not swayed by what the mass thought he should wear. Someone who was true to themselves. I wanted to be someone who one day felt they had "made it" and it was something that inspired me for years to come.
An anti-1984 watch, if you will. I've always seen the brand as square peg and Max as a crazy one; someone who dared to change the (watch) world.
In just 16 years they have produced 19 calibers. I'm not aware of any other brand that has ever produced as many (we aren't talking about modules here) different calibers in such a time. "JLC, watch a learn", is what Max seems to be saying.
For me, Max's youthful joie de vivre and zest for what's new, all while being contrasted with the utmost respect for the people that built modern watchmaking is very compelling. It is what draws me to the brand and the Man on a very personal level.
In 2020 I found some success in business - I took total controlling power over the company I started 10 years prior - and wanted to mark the time. I wanted to mark it with something that paid homage to the past, the past 10 years, but was also forward looking, what I could do with my company now. MB&F was a natural selection. I called Cellini in NY and placed an order.
With all the stuff that happened during that time, it took several months for my watch to make its way to me.
My LM101 in Palladium. Limited to 18 pieces. Meet #3; the fresh start for my business.
And yes, it was expensive.
And yes, I do wear it when I garden (sometimes):
And yes, it was expensive.
And yes, I do wear it when I garden (sometimes):
The watch thoughtfully pays attention to pocket watch movements of the past and the finishing was designed by Kari Voutilainen. Of course, people who work on the watch are given credit;
Every detail is thoughtfully cared for. For example, the dials for the power reserve and time are seven layers of stretched lacquer. Each layer is polished to give the finished dials a dome shape, mirroring the the crystal.
The finishing is, of course, haute de gamme:
The engravings on the dial and movement were done by none other than Eddy Jaquet, by hand;
Oh, you're probably wondering why I so brazenly call Mr. Busser, Max. Well, when I ordered the watch, a few hours later I got an email from Max himself thanking me for support him, his brand, and the people who work with MB&F. He wanted me to have his personal contact information, should I need anything.
Let's see your brand's CEO do that.
I am honoured to now call Max a Friend. So, in a way, the watch is part of me but I'm also a part of the watch. I am a Friend so, like the people that work with MB&F, I too get a little bit of credit.
About a month after the watch finally arrived at my home, I also received a handwritten thank you card in the mail from Max.
MB&F, for these reasons and more, is a brand that really speaks to me. I don't love all their watches but I certainly appreciate and admire their ability to not just march to the beat of their own drum, but rethink how a drum can sound, or how a drum can be played. I've shared this before, but I often try and personify watch brands and throw a pretend party in my head and play out what those humanized brands would be like (I do stuff like this when I am alone in my head). Breitling would show up in a bomber jacket, despite it being a black tie event, Patek would have a monocle and look down its nose, Breguet would be wearing a woolen 3 piece suit (albeit an impeccable one), in spite of it being July, Blancpain would constantly have people saying to him, "You look familiar, do I know you?"
At this party, MB&F would be a 12 year old boy, outside on front lawn, twirling in the rain, catching raid drops on his tongue.
Let's see your brand's CEO do that.
I am honoured to now call Max a Friend. So, in a way, the watch is part of me but I'm also a part of the watch. I am a Friend so, like the people that work with MB&F, I too get a little bit of credit.
About a month after the watch finally arrived at my home, I also received a handwritten thank you card in the mail from Max.
MB&F, for these reasons and more, is a brand that really speaks to me. I don't love all their watches but I certainly appreciate and admire their ability to not just march to the beat of their own drum, but rethink how a drum can sound, or how a drum can be played. I've shared this before, but I often try and personify watch brands and throw a pretend party in my head and play out what those humanized brands would be like (I do stuff like this when I am alone in my head). Breitling would show up in a bomber jacket, despite it being a black tie event, Patek would have a monocle and look down its nose, Breguet would be wearing a woolen 3 piece suit (albeit an impeccable one), in spite of it being July, Blancpain would constantly have people saying to him, "You look familiar, do I know you?"
At this party, MB&F would be a 12 year old boy, outside on front lawn, twirling in the rain, catching raid drops on his tongue.
Anyway, all of this will either sounds like hooey to you or, if you are like me, grab you in a very fundamental way.
I hope this gives you a little insight to MB&F, Max, and what the vision is all about.
I hope this gives you a little insight to MB&F, Max, and what the vision is all about.
Best,
-Paul
What a beautiful story!
I too love MB&F, event though I don't have one yet. It's my favorite independent and Max is one of my favorite people in the industry. A cool guy that always dares to be different.
Thank you. It's a very special little slice of horology. It's too bad it is becoming so well known; it was a well kept secret.
The thing I value most about brands like MBF and gronefeld is how accessible the owners are
To get a personal reply from Max or Tim in a matter of minutes is crazy. Other brands it takes days if not weeks or even in one case months
Class? Yes. But also just an all around super nice, really cool guy. He is very charismatic.
Great write-up Paul 👏🏻
Max and his friends have really made Horology so much more exciting
A great census Andrea
Personally i pick out my watches by brand.
Second the country of production.
Number 1.
First i have not tried every brand that exist, so there are maybe winners which i not knew.
For me is important what a brand brings and rationally said price.
Here it comes. I can proudly call Longines as my personal winner.
It have all, it have movements, heritage, divers, dressers, pilots, AD’s, celebs, affordable,
a nice emblem, first company that brought an emblem. Efco, The Assisi family, Mister von Kanel, a huge register, a museum, almost 200 years active.
Number 2.
Brand, and after 1900 Omega.
Brought the first watch on the moon, used as first company the Co-Axial movement,
was the first who had the Metas chronometer certification, Olympic games timekeeper,
and James Bond can not live without it.
Number 3.
Baume & Mercier.
A long story short, i like it by private events.
Number 4.
Revue Thommen/Vulcain.
Number 5.
Frédérique Constant.
Number 6.
Vacheron Constantin.
Number 7.
Ulysse Nardin.
Number 8.
Breguet.
Number 9.
Minerva.
Number 10.
Bovet.
Second the country of production.
Number 1.
First i have not tried every brand that exist, so there are maybe winners which i not knew.
For me is important what a brand brings and rationally said price.
Here it comes. I can proudly call Longines as my personal winner.
It have all, it have movements, heritage, divers, dressers, pilots, AD’s, celebs, affordable,
a nice emblem, first company that brought an emblem. Efco, The Assisi family, Mister von Kanel, a huge register, a museum, almost 200 years active.
Number 2.
Brand, and after 1900 Omega.
Brought the first watch on the moon, used as first company the Co-Axial movement,
was the first who had the Metas chronometer certification, Olympic games timekeeper,
and James Bond can not live without it.
Number 3.
Baume & Mercier.
A long story short, i like it by private events.
Number 4.
Revue Thommen/Vulcain.
Number 5.
Frédérique Constant.
Number 6.
Vacheron Constantin.
Number 7.
Ulysse Nardin.
Number 8.
Breguet.
Number 9.
Minerva.
Number 10.
Bovet.
That's a comprehensive list!
Thank you for your contribution, I too have omega in my top two favorites
Brand Census part due
More.
When i study my Omega, it is clear that this brand is very good in watch making.
If Omega put not so much energy in the watch box, they can bring up more quality to the watch.
A simple sustainable watch box will have my preference.
When i study my Omega, it is clear that this brand is very good in watch making.
If Omega put not so much energy in the watch box, they can bring up more quality to the watch.
A simple sustainable watch box will have my preference.
I can see why you say that...
But the omega boxes are beautiful, I love both my wooden seamaster box and my huge speedmaster box.
no problem
Haha, i buy watches to wear, not to lurk the box. But….. i smell the watch box, Omega used that delicious leather.
I'll add mine as well... JLC and Omega, tied for my heart's first place
I am a nerdy guy, I love to geek out over my passions, and not many subjects can be explored as deeply and widely as horology can, at least in my opinion. I've always considered myself to be a free thinker, I'm more likely to love something if it's the underdog.
That being said, I know that my two choices are extremely popular, at least among us watch guys, and in the case of Omega even in the eyes of the broader public, but I like how both brands do not have the main goal of making status symbols, they just make great watches.
Their history is vast, and in both cases full of technical innovations, which is something that I look for more than anything else.
Both brands make me feel like a kid, looking at something and trying to understand how it works, all of this while not attracting the wrong attention to themselves.
A. Lange & Sohne
I'll put in a vote for my favorite German watch brand of A. Lange & Sohne. While I sadly don't own one myself yet (one day!), they've always spoken to me on a different level from almost every other brand. I absolutely adore MB&F, Gronefeld, DeBethune etc., but Lange consistently manages to capture a certain magic to my eye across their whole lineup. It's a brand that manages to create somewhat traditional styled watches but with their own unmistakable unique look. They're stunning yet understated and a true thing of beauty.
Lange is a fantastic brand
The Lange 1 and the Zeitwerk have long been grails of mine
Lange is great but they are not the company they were 15 or even 10 years ago...
I also use mine for chores, occasionally.....
Great minds think alike! :)
I'm with you, brother - prefer my two sub-bridges, little islands of heaven, despite the technical advances with the newer guy.
that is a alot of difference.
What about another model? 1815 chrono, datograph, zeitwerk etc
1815 chrono I prefer the cleaner dial of the 2nd generation, without the pulsometer scale. Dato and ZW, first-generation for me!