Horological Meandering

I realise that for many De Bethune is not a brand that normally the first name that comes to mind when we read or talk about high horology. At least for me until recently I only knew of the brand by name but having had the chance to photograph a few of the watches and speak to the Denis and David - I am very much impressed by their direction and leadership and their time pieces.

About more than a week ago I spent half a day at the premises of DeBethune's local Authorised Dealer in the presence of both David Zanetta (the CEO) and Denis Flageollet (master watchmaker). I only just managed to find a few spare hours to finish completing at least the images of the DB22. What immediately hit me about this watch was how different it is compared to the earlier lines/models from DeBethune. Almost disconcerting even. However, the watches are well made, design and executed and with all things beautiful - grew on me.

I hope that with my images here I am able to convey some of the intricate details and beauty of this new model from DeBethune. I hope you like them!



To view the photomontage click on this link below and follow through:

DE BETHUNE DB22 POWER

Cheers!
Harry Tan
horolographer
watchinghorology.com

. . .is never less than masterful.  I think we're getting to where it's as much of a challenge for the watches you photograph to live up to your photography as it is for the photos to do justice to the watches ;-) .

You know, I have a confession to make.  I am of two VERY different minds about DeBethune; or perhaps I should say their designs evoke very mixed feelings.  They're completely distinctive; DeBethune watches have an identity all their own and to my eye a certain appealing- I don't know what to call it, 'craziness' or 'weirdness' sounds altogether too pejorative but they're both accurate terms if you can just leave out the negatively judgemental connotations.  They have an almost out of place look- there's something about the super high tech lines and deliberate hyper modernity that makes them feel disconnected, in a way, from watchmaking in general- almost as if they're not really watches, but some other kind of bizarre mechanical device altogether.

Yet at the same time, there's something about them that I feel is distancing and I am not quite sure what.  There is something (just to my personal taste) cold and angular about a lot of their designs; the finish is SO diamond sharp that I get an impression of unapproachability.  Now I've never seen the watches in person, but between that and some of the mechanical innovations- the balance and escapement system in particular seems a trifle striving for effect- I just find it hard to feel like I could warm up to them.

Of course it could just be my provincialism- God knows my own personal tastes tend towards the extremely conservative (with some exceptions- MB&F HM1 is a notable exception but as I've said elsewhere I actually find that a pretty classically designed watch in a lot of respects) so maybe I'm just the horological equivalent of a dumbstruck country boy looking at the thoroughbred lines of an Italian supermodel (why Italian?  Supermodels come in a plurality of provenances, I've noticed ;-) ) wondering how he'd hug the woman without getting a papercut ;-) .

Jack

You are very kind with your description of my photography. I certainly hope I can live up to it! I am still finding that I am improving but ever in smaller and smaller increments. Nevertheless I do have the subject paramount in my mind and desire to show off the best elements ,aspects and details.

I can understand your feelings between the two extreme ends of design. In many aspects its almost inexplicable how we could desire watch classics and yet be drawn to machine designs. I have been there myself and its a waking and learning process to discover how my own preferences change over time.

I hope you will get a chance to see and handle a DeBethune in the near future. Admittedly though, this DB22 is a rare piece so keep your fingers crossed!

Cheers!
Harry Tan
Horolographer
watchinghorology.com< a>

. . .to see one in person, much less get to know the people behind them (who are from what I understand individuals of remarkable technical acumen, obviously) so any opinion I might offer is purely personal and uninformed by direct contact.  I hope to see one of their watches- particularly this one- in person, some day.

Jack

I too was wondering how to get to see the rare watches. But over time, being in Singapore I got the great fortune to be invited by the brands and authorised dealers to view the watches and meet the watchmakers. It was only when I got more confident with my photography that I was bold enough to photograph the watchmakers and brand CEOs.

Speaking of watch makers, let me share with you a snap of Denis Flagoellet the Master Watchmaker at DeBethune. This image was snapped while I was taking a break from photographing the watches and both Denis and David was being interviewed by a local journalist.

Do note that Denis was wearing his favourite timepiece - a DeBethune Perpetual Calendar (one of my favourite Perpetual Calendars today).




Cheers!
Harry Tan
Horolographer
watchinghorology.com< a>

. . . of a man not to be trifled with I hope if the folks at DB have looked in on this thread it's understood that my personal opinion is just that and I'm prepared to do a complete, feckless 180 if I ever get a chance to see one of their pieces in person.  They're pretty darned rare though; nobody in my immediate circle of horological acquaintances has ever shown up with one on the wrist so unfortunately I have to make surmises from photos.  As far as technical merits go, I'd love to be better informed- I have thanks to some input from others a general sense of where DB and M. Flageollet are trying to go with their balance and hairspring combination but I'm sorely short of real nuts and bolts technical information.

By the way, he is wearing one of my favorite DB watches; I think that particular model is extremely beautiful though I still can't decide how I feel about the lugs.  They look much less obtrusive on the wrist (at least in the picture) than they seem to in press photos though.

Jack

Indeed Denis is an imposing figure even in real life! Unfortunately he seems to look like this when he is with strangers but much more relaxed when he is with people he knows personally as I saw him relax at the DeBethune dinner. He also does not speak any English and David does all the translation. By reputation Denis is one of the reputed top watchmakers in Switzerland.

. . .one of those very few watchmakers considered to comprise the most elite stratum of skill- anything such a master craftsman does must be considered seriously and I certainly regard the work DB is doing with great interest.  DB is a very interesting brand indeed- at the very least the more challenging aspects of their designs never fails to provoke thought and their technical innovations represent a real confrontation with accepted wisdom.  I think the next few years should bring some extremely interesting developments. 

Jack

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One thing can STOP me from buying a watch..a cheap looking set of hands.

That is my singular pet peeve with RM.

I have to look at those hands everyday...but the DB Power has sort of got the hands that may just fit into the RM look..just my POV.

. . .the hands of RM watches certainly are not designed with the same sensibility as the De Bethune hands but on the other hand (haha, sorry ;-) you know me, I can never resist a cheap joke) they seem very consonant with the design of the rest of the watch; a good extension of the mechanism both functionally and aesthetically (assuming the aesthetics of RM watches are up your alley to begin with.)  I don't think more overtly 'designed' hands would serve RM watches as well, JIMVHO.

Jack

for such a high end watch as RM..the hands are not, to me, made to the same standards. The rubber, or whatever, strap on an RM009, was incredibly badly "designed" on one example that I toyed with for over an hour. I mean..it was an 009!!! Great scott! Specifically, the strap would bend outwards and literally open out a gap between the case and the edge of the strap! A very unsightly thing...not just a gap, but an obviously faulty attachment design. It would only "close" if the strap was laid flat.

The RM hands...ok..I can't get over (1)the finish of the hands edges and (2) the uneven luminous paint.

When I saw how another company handled that situation..they encased the hand, similar to RM's, in a saphire sandwich..damned good solution..the pressure from the 2 saphire plates flattened out the luminous paint, and made also the edges of the hands very flat and even.

However, all said..ok..it was ONE example, but hey...they don't churn out many 009s. So..I was more than unhappy.

. . .OK, I gotcha.  I have seen exactly 2 RMs in my entire life BTW and in both cases was (a) as MTF would say feeling the effects of the -OH groups ;-) and (b) the lighting was incredibly bad, the watches belonged to proud new owners and the circumstances did not lend themselves to prolonged inspection.  At a certain point one simply expects flawless execution throughout and clearly visible mistakes in execution start to rankle.  Are we talking about imperfections visible only under mag or were the issues with the lume visible clearly to the naked eye?

Jack

I may just be able to see it again soon. It's the way the strap attaches itself to the watch, and also the finish to the edges of both hour and minute hands.

. . .but I'd be most interested to see the issues you mention.

Jack

As always, great work of art and a very beautiful watch. Cheers Jim

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Kong

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The rotor sure is a definite statement for me....call it crazy but I'm always obsessed with dials and rotors...hehe ;-)

Thanks Harry, for bringing us "closer" to the actually piece

cheers
joe

as the rotor literally seems to have a life of its own. Just a small tilt of the watch sends the rotor spinning like it has a built in jet pack.

Cheers
Harry Tan

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Cheers!

Harry Tan
Horolographer
watchinghorology.com< a> 

You truly capture the beautiful finish of the movement, something truly difficult to do. In the hands of a less skilled photographer, this kind of non-decorative movement finish would look industrial.

- SJX

This type of movement finish tends to be eschewed by the classical collectors but I think it has its place in high horology. I suspect that there is a growing popularity for such movements.

Cheers
Harry

to witness your continuous improvement. It has been for quite a while now that I have thought your watch shots can't be topped anymore. Yet, every time you post a new series you prove the contrary. Amazing, Harry!

Cheers, Valentin

I truly appreciate your words of encouragement!

You would have noted that I returned to a static presentation here. This was because I was experimenting with different new techniques (for me in any case) in the photographing as well as post processing of the watches. I also acquired new equipment and all these helps with my improvement of the images at some level (at some small level at least).

As I have always said, I am always pushing to perfect the art and never being satisfied with the last effort and while the whole process is time consuming and requires a lot of effort, I still enjoy it and find it a wonderful means for creative output and at some level its quite cathartic for me.

Also, I am always mindful that many people see the images I publish and I have the responsibility to publish the quality that the watch deserves.  

Cheers and Thanks again!

Harry Tan
horolographer
watchinghorology.com< a>

As usual, Harry, an outstanding presentation here, and just a preference, I prefer the ‘stills’ over the quasi-video slides.  It was Susan Sontag who said a picture of a thing is far better than the thing itself, and after seeing your work, I am convinced you epitomize such—not to say I don’t like the watches.

I think there are those prefer one or two of the differing styles of presentation I use. I use different styles because it gives me a greater breadth of tools to show off the watches. I began first with activeX slideshow which was well received but many wanted to have some control over the speed of the changing slides. The two styles I have used of late allows users to control the speed or pause the transitions. The video of the stills allows me to zoom and pan to give the images a little more punch and allow me to highlight the parts - and the video can still be paused as well (also it allows me to have some music attached - but I have decided that it distracts the images too much).

Your reference to Sontag is quite poinant for me. I started with closeup watch photography because the camera lens catches images that the naked eye (vis a vis the brain) just cannot see. We all see in 3D and just not possible to see all the details at one go even if we use a loupe. A digital image captures all the details and show it in 2D and thus our eyes get to see all the fine details and in many instances the greater beauty our eyes miss.

Thanks again!

Cheers
Harry Tan
horolographer
watchinghorology.com< a>