Horological Meandering

"In Asia, I know that are able to detect if that component was manufactured by a craftsman of the Chaux-de-Fonds, the Vallée de Joux or Geneva. I would be incapable of myself. The knowledge of some collectors is spectacular. "Renaud de Retz, at the head of the new brand of haute horlogerie neuchâteloise Hautlence, has come to know the passion for watches; strange community, discreet and international collectors. And for good reason: "Of the 500 watches sold by Hautlence so far, about 200 slept in the vaults of collectors, Asia and the Middle East mainly. I know some sixty of these buyers personally. Two of them bought all models Hautlence, or 17 pieces [to more than 50,000 francs]. "

For small independent watchmakers, who sell items, some original and complex, major collectors are a crucial customer. "It's like in contemporary art: they are the experts who create the craze, summarizes Maximilian Büsser, giving rise to the creation of brand watch MB&F. We produce 150 watches per year, of which more than half are currently bought by collectors. I know them and I listen to their opinions, but that does not mean that I try to please them when I create a new model. Rather, my goal was rather to the surprise each time. My watches divided: some love it, others hate. "

Opinions collectors - exchanged on sites like WatchProSite, ThePuristS, or Horomundi Horology-Switzerland - are not only for manufacturers but also to other clients. "They have become prescribing trends, continued Maximilian Büsser. Their views on our products are very important to the community of other connoisseurs. This is a very new phenomenon for creators. "

By intervening on the Net, some scholars like Bernard Cheong (see below), have become very influential. "The collector is helping to create the myth around a brand, and forge his reputation, recognizes Jerome Lambert, CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre. "That always existed at the time, enthusiasts met through the major auction houses. But the Internet is playing a huge role today, accelerating the influences in the community around the world, and enhancing exchanges with the industry."

With 50,000 parts produced per year, Jaeger-LeCoultre seeks an audience much wider than a few mechanical forcenés beautiful. But interest amongst collectors also remains crucial for major retailers. "These are the most demanding customers, those who seek out the most complex and rare, and this gives us a lot of the meet," Jerome Lambert. I know a few dozen, including some who have more than 200 of our watches. It is a sign of recognition they choose our products, a form of validation of their quality. "To meet the requirements of this particular clientele (the collector seeking the object by definition rare, complex, expensive and difficult to obtain), the houses of haute horlogerie compound regularly unique. "We carry about 3 per year, watches particularly complex and costly, 800,000 to 3 million francs," said the boss of Jaeger-LeCoultre. We proceed to specific sales. Soon, we will present a reprint of a model Polaris that we can produce only a few dozen units, which will be sold in Paris."

But those who are really passionate? There are several styles. Almost always wealthy businessmen who travel widely. There are those who want to show off their social status through a model and seeing particularly those who are passionate primarily for mechanics, the technical prowess. Still others seek only to differentiate. "Some people demonstrate a passion bordered on obsession," says Renaud de Retz of Hautlence. "They want imperative to rare models before anyone else. So much so that their behavior sometimes is beyond comprehension. I saw collectors buying blind, including non-functional prototype of big brands to several hundred thousand francs."

There are also fortunate lovers of beautiful objects, as Pat Warren. This venerable American, who participates in competitive dressage horses in the western United States, began his collection - now estimated at several million dollars - in the early 1990's, looking for a showcase jeweler during a trip to Aspen (Colorado). "I do not know anything," she said. I bought a first watch that day. And then 250 other then! I change model two or three times a day. I wear all. The most expensive I have is a Tourbillon Orbital Jean Dunand and Excalibur Double Tourbillon Roger Dubuis. I collect coins watch as works of art. I have models of famous brands like Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, or Frank Muller, but I prefer the small independent watchmakers as Jorg Hysek, DeWitt, Speake-Marin, Vianney Halter, Christiaan van der Klaauw (Netherlands), and Alain Silberstein (France) Even if some of these brands are poorly represented in the United States. "Pat Warren has met personally with many of these watchmakers.

Relatively wealthy, lovers of haute horlogerie are not necessarily all multimillionaires. A Parisian lawyer of 37 years, Alexander prefers to remain discreet about his identity "to avoid arousing the attention of French taxman." He has some forty pieces watch, valued at about 250,000 euros.

"I started with the Swatch that I collected as accessories aesthetic when I was 12-13 years old! With the money from my first salary, I bought a Breguet because I liked the look. At the job interview at the office where I work, my future boss was wearing a Breguet. I took the job because I thought this would be a good man and I am not mistaken. I love the old-Vacheron Constantin, they are beautiful. And recently I work with independent creations like Philippe Dufour. I have sold quite a few pieces, some of which had been appraised up to 5 times or even 10 times the purchase price. So watches have been a good investment! I am still a "small player". But above all be passionate. I love to interact with other scholars and with the watch themselves. I love their relationship to the world, aesthetics, technology, tradition and the passage of time. "

To interact with fans from around the world, some designers are now watch themselves on specialized blogs present their news and discuss their products. This exchange facility has already enabled new small brands come forward soon with this audience privileged and influential. From across the world, behind their computers, watches enthusiasts accelerate and the creativity of a traditional industry.

-------

"One way to archive the ingenuity of the human spirit"

(An interview with Dr Bernard Cheong)