Horological Meandering

Few days ago, Hermes Watch Boutique at Marina Bay Sands showcased its Baselworld novelties.  Two complications were the Arceau le Temps Suspendu (i.e.Time Suspended) and Arceau moonphase.

The le Temps Suspendu represents Hermes’ concept of playing with time (as was with the Grand Hours it launched earlier).  The actual time/ suspended time modes are activated via a pusher at the 9 o’clock position.  At the suspended time mode, the date hand disappears.  More interestingly, the hour hand is in between 11 and 12 positions, while the minute hand is in between 12 and 1 positions.  Time is suspended in this “unreadable” virtual timing, which again shows Hermes playing with time.  It differs from the Franck Muller Secret Hours which is always showing the virtual time as noon, unless the pusher is depressed.

 

Depress the le Temps Suspendu’s pusher again sees the hands showing the actual time and date.

 

At first glance it looks like only the date hand is retrograde.  However, in actual fact, le Temps Suspendu is a triple retrograde complication.  The retrograde systems on the hour and minute hands enable the hands to show the actual time instantly (with the activation of the pusher at the time suspended mode) without having to use a "rattrapante" system. Without the retrograde system, the hands would have to "catch up" with the actual time by making all the movement/circles that weren't made while time was suspended.  The retrograde systems and the 2 column wheels (for the hour and minute hands individually), the hands each only has to make a movement of less than 360 degrees to go to the actual time.

I asked why was the crown at 2 o’clock and was told it was more for aesthetics.  Agree, having the pusher at 9 and crown at 3 is probably less pleasing.

The other is the moonphase, which I find is more ordinary, especially having played with the le Temps Suspendu.  Having said that, the le Temps Suspendu isn’t the only timepiece which interests me the most that evening.  I’ll come to that shortly.

 

But first, I was also shown the Dressage Perpetual Calendar.  The design of the dial and the overall appearance made the watch rather unconventional compared to others I had seen.  I didn’t quite like the design at first glance.  However, having physically touched the piece, it grew on me.  [By the way, I didn’t like the look of the PP 5217 initially, but now it’s one of my favourite.].  Perhaps, the good finishing of the Dressage Perpetual Calendar was one of the reasons I was attracted to it.  I was pleased to note it was reasonably priced. 

Now, the piece that I was most fascinated with is the 8Days Spiral Boule Clock .  It is a spherical table clock.  It is heavy (just above 1kg), perhaps mainly attributed to the white gold dial and movement.  To wind and to set the time, one turns the two halves of the sphere in opposite direction.  The pushing of the button at 6 o’clock alternates between winding and time setting.  Interesting.  But its retail price is even more so to say the least.

 

I wished I could spend more time taking photos, but I was engaged with the very friendly Mr Jerome, General Manager (SE Asia), Hermes.  Shall subsequently share on some of the information Mr Jerome kindly shared about Hermes watches.  Thanks to Hermes Watch Boutique and its friendly staff, particularly Steven and Ivanka.

 

This message has been edited by mell0822 on 2011-05-02 06:02:27

love that Temps Suspendu

J

All the Jean-Marc Wiederecht's cleverness can be found in this watch !

The idea to display an impossible time is excellent and enjoyable!

Thanks for the pics!

Fx

What a piece of work! I must check that out next time I'm at the boutique.

Thanks for posting.

... and also have been fascinated by that desk clock.

Thanks for sharing the photos and a rare coverage of Hermes time pieces on this forum.

I think they have huge potential, and have been really tempted as a fan of the brand. The only gripe I have is that I cannot convince myself to pay the price they ask for. I'd rather pay those prices for a Lange or Patek.

Especially having spoken with Hermes representatives, I learnt quite a lot about its mechanical watches.  Sure, its primary focus was on ladies quartz.  If I haven't noticed the le Temps Suspendu, I probably wouldn't have stepped into the boutique to enquire about it and see for myself its relatively wide range of complications.  I expect to see more from Hermes. 

Likewise, I hope Hermes wouldn't price itself out of competition.  I want to be surprised by its creativity and elegance, but not by its (high) price.  But as stated, the Dressage Pertpetual Calendar is quite competitively priced. 

Thank you all for the kind comments.

May I ask, why you think so? Are they not serious enough, not known for their watches, show some flaws ...? Is it just a feeling you have?

I am curious, because I have the same feeling and find it difficult to describe. Maybe it is just a lack of experience with their watches ...

Oliver

.. I'm not taking them seriously enough to invest that amount of money with, on their mechanical watches... Please don't get me wrong, I'm a huge fan of Hermes myself.

It is the same for me towards Montblanc watches.  Some of the recent pieces are great e.g. TwinFly.  But I keep associating the brand with fountain pens, though it also has leather products and jewelry, that are priced on the higher side in my personal opinion.  In fact, as much as Hermes and Montblanc are different, they share similarities in their ventures in watchmaking.  I would not go through them here.

In the end, it again boils down to perception and preference.  It is also important for Hermes to communicate what its watches stand for, apart from coming out with innovative pieces. 

Both brands did catch my attention this year and I hope to see more from them for next year launches and who knows, maybe I would pull the trigger on one of their pieces. 

Perhaps I should add that all I've shared are my own view, without any inducements.

Thanks for reading.

 

Well, who expects them to be perfect in everything they do?! Too many companies/groups try to please everybody with everything these days, just because of the (quick) money.

At the end ot the day the customers decide with their purchases and quite often I don´t unterstand them. Who needs ice cubes from Gucci ...

As long as houses like Hermes take good care of their key competences and please me with gorgeous products, they can do what ever they want
... and maybe one day watchmaking get´s one of their key competences ... ;-)

Oliver

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and did never regret to spend my money on one of their leather goods. Most of their textiles (silk, wool ...) are great as well.

Never spend my money on their table ware ... ;-)

Their creativity in general and their passion for craftsmanship is outstanding.

One of my favorite books in 2011:



If you don´t know the books, go for it. It is a real pleasure and for sure it inspired their latest magazine/catalog. Each book shows different facets of their skills and the people behind.

Thanks for sharing your thoughts!

Oliver

Thanks for reminding me about the La Maison books!! I've actually pre-ordered them on Amazon.com and then the release somehow got cancelled/post-poned and it went to the back of my mind! Now you remind me I should be hunting for a set of these books too!

Same here, but finally I got mine after more than one year of waiting. Take care there are different prices. I managed to got one of the "cheap" ones ;-)

Oliver