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Durability of precious metal
This is a question I need to ask, as I've tried researching this matter and I get so many views and opinions, most of which contradict the other, I'm reaching out to you, my fellow Purists.
Most of you know, I've been avoiding precious metal on watches for the longest time, just because I never wanted to have gold on my wrist, in any color, and because I'm mostly in casual settings in hot and humid weather. I've been contemplating getting myself a white gold piece now, but I want to have one that will stand up to daily wear, not formal and/or business settings only. From what I have read up, besides being softer than steel, which I understand, and being more susceptible to knocks, dents and scratches (which I can accept), I would like to get your real world thoughts on the long term durability of WG. Platinum is at price points I won't want to consider at this time.
Specifically around things like discoloration, rhodium re-plating (is this even necessary anymore?), service costs etc. What would you say? Would it stand up to daily beatings like I put all my watches which are in steel up to? What about deployants? What I'm looking at has a deployant, and I'm interested to know, due to the softness of gold, would these friction based deployant locks give up faster than the steel counterparts? And how much faster, if this information is available?
A lot of questions, but all help is appreciated.
Thanks and have a great Sunday.
Richard
Many questions, indeed, but I will try to make it simple.
Your first fear is about DISCOLORATION.
That is true when the white gold case of your Watch is rodhium plated. Yuo need to send it for a service and they will replate the case. Not really a problem BUT in the last years, let's say 8 years, Patek, for example, gave up rodhium plating and reworked the alloy in their white gold to keep it white with time passing.
So, no problems, here. You just have to be sure it is not rodhium plated if you don't want to plate your case later.
I have several watches in white gold which are watches which I very often wear: Examples? UN Sonata, UN Freak. With their folding buckle in white gold. No issues at all. I more often wear my Sonata than my Freak, to be honest, but the case is still impeccable.
Yes, WG will always remain softer than Steel, but what i s the issue? When you send it for a service, IF you cannot love with dings, you ask for a polish, and dang, all new.
No, there are not real nor serious issues which would stop you from getting a WG Watch!
Best,
Nicolas
This message has been edited by amanico on 2015-01-25 01:16:41Thanks for the input, Nico
Very helpful as always 
I'm too careful, I think. Just wanted to make sure I was not making a mistake because I'm not always very gentle with my watches and don't work in a boardroom type office. Now, I'm more convinced that this will work and it's taking me one step closer to what I've been looking at...in the meantime, another steel watch on order to fill the waiting gap ;-)
What I'm looking at is a current production by VC as detailed in another earlier post, so I do believe that should not be rhodium plated, yes?
If it is from the current VC collection, I don't think it is rodhium plated. [nt]
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Corrosion and durability
Your questions are about corrosion and durability.
IMHO gold wins out over steel.
Gold is inherently much more corrosion resistant than iron or the iron alloy steel.
The problem with white gold is that gold is not white, so other metals are alloyed with the gold to give it a white color.
Modern WG alloys use mainly palladium as a whitener which is a nobel metal like gold meaning no corrosion, no color changing.
Older WG alloys used mostly nickel which was then rhodium coated to make it corrosion resistant, not the ideal solution.
If you ever try machining gold and steel you will see a big difference.
Most steel is harder, but easier to cut.
Gold is softer, but it is harder to cut, it prefers to bend or stretch. You need sharper tools to cut gold.
The two metals simply react differently to external forces.
For me the adavantages of steel for watch cases is a mythos propogated by the watchmakers to sell a cheap material that is easy to machine for lots of money.
Thank you AP.
Gold has a warmth and heft that steel lacks.
There is a reason that our women want gold jewelry and not steel.
Looks, feel and longgevity.
Best,
Don
IMHO gold wins out over steel.
Gold is inherently much more corrosion resistant than iron or the iron alloy steel.
The problem with white gold is that gold is not white, so other metals are alloyed with the gold to give it a white color.
Modern WG alloys use mainly palladium as a whitener which is a nobel metal like gold meaning no corrosion, no color changing.
Older WG alloys used mostly nickel which was then rhodium coated to make it corrosion resistant, not the ideal solution.
If you ever try machining gold and steel you will see a big difference.
Most steel is harder, but easier to cut.
Gold is softer, but it is harder to cut, it prefers to bend or stretch. You need sharper tools to cut gold.
The two metals simply react differently to external forces.
For me the adavantages of steel for watch cases is a mythos propogated by the watchmakers to sell a cheap material that is easy to machine for lots of money.
Thank you AP.
Gold has a warmth and heft that steel lacks.
There is a reason that our women want gold jewelry and not steel.
Looks, feel and longgevity.
Best,
Don
I still like steel... or titanium... :-)
Hi Don,
yes woman prefer White Gold or Platinum or Read Gold or Diamonds... But I guess there are also other reasons that the ones you mentioned...
Besides that, I only have steel watches so far (for cost reasons but also because I like robust watches); none of the watches that I - some for more than 20 years - have shown problems with corrosion...
Great information
Thanks for the input and detailed descriptions of what goes into those alloys, Don. I'm learning new stuff every day
I'm more convinced now, and yes, the heft is significantly higher than steel - of course some prefer it lighter, but for simple dress watches, the heft helps balance off the slim proportions which can turn out pretty light in steel.
Richard
Good thoughts and information, Don. Makes me
want to go buy gold watch!
Best,
CaliforniaJed
Gold also has the advantage of...
having been a universally accepted store of value for thousands of years. Interestingly, we are also at a historical economic juncture which, in my view, is soon to catalyze the value of gold sharply upwards.
This message has been edited by Tony C. on 2015-01-31 09:49:05
I own far more steel watches than gold, but when the design is well-executed, there really is nothing like the latter.
Regards,
Tony C.
Other options.
I believe, like most others who answered you, that you will be very happy with a white gold piece. But you have some other choices if you are so concerned with hardness and longevity.
Ceramic is now mainstream in case-making and there are several choices there. And Palladium itself you may find worth researching. I know Moser uses it for their Perpetual and it looks gorgeous.
Good luck.
Ceramic is an interesting option
I am aware of that - maybe just not this time, as I'm looking at a daily watch that most people would consider bordering more on the dress watch category, so ceramic is not so appropriate IMO. Palladium is nice - I've seen the Moser and the color is different from WG for sure - a little colder, but brighter.
Let's see some gold watches
Your post made me think that I haven't worn my only gold watch in a long time.
Today it got wrist time and it pleased me as always.
It is not haute horlogerie with its 7750 and stamped dial, but a very pleasing composition none-the-less.
Today it got wrist time and it pleased me as always.
It is not haute horlogerie with its 7750 and stamped dial, but a very pleasing composition none-the-less.
Looking good
Proportions are great too, and honestly, I've never been a sticker for in house movements, whatever is said, I do appreciate a reliable and easy to service movement over one that may be in house but lacks the above qualities. Thanks for sharing, Don.
Richard
I also avoid precious metal ...
Based on the extra weight (a gold watch is heavy than a steel on).
And
The precious metal (Gold or Pt) are less resistant to dings.
Polishing remove those dings on precious metal cased watches but they will be thinner and thinner.
For me, SS and Ti rules.
Cheers,
Nilo
And
The precious metal (Gold or Pt) are less resistant to dings.
Polishing remove those dings on precious metal cased watches but they will be thinner and thinner.
For me, SS and Ti rules.
Cheers,
Nilo
Highly recommend PT950
... despite you did mentioned you do not want platinum.. I think you won't be disappointed by PT.