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Electric Clock Maintenance and Repair, Part 1
BACKGROUND
Quartz clocks are usually battery powered, but you might find the occasional one with an A/C adaptor for mains (line) power. Of course that means the clock should be mounted over a special wall outlet that is recessed to hide the cord.
QUARTZ CHRONOMETERS
Quartz Clock with day date rotating back marker
This message has been edited by cazalea on 2015-06-09 21:24:48
The concept of doing a series of posts on maintaining clocks has been in the back of my mind for awhile. I got motivated to start on it a month ago, when a half-dozen of my clocks stopped. I decided to get it finished because ThomasM posted a frightening shot of his Panerai clock suffering battery leakage.
Although at a distance the average Purist might not seem to be the sort of person to have a quartz clock on the wall above his desk, there's no doubt of their utility, convenience and desirability - if for nothing else than to serve as a reference source for setting all the mechanical watches in the collection.
I'm going to divide this post into several sections, dealing specifically with the inner workings of electric clocks, their power source / battery which is also their greatest enemy, and some simple things we can do (as well as the complications involved) in maintaining a fleet of electric clocks.
Cleaning the dial of a quartz marine chronometer
For historical purposes, it's worth mentioning that in the past century there have been many different types of electric clocks -- most of which can still be used today. In addition to the modern AA-cell powered quartz clock motor, there are other power sources which might be found moving the hands of our clocks.
NOT TO BE COVERED
We will ignore digital and non-moving clocks, like this one:
"Atomic" digital clock
TRANSISTOR CLOCKS
About a dozen of my clocks have transistorized movements. The transistor, or electronic switch, provides a periodic on/off signal to initiate a kick to the pendulum, or a spin to the balance wheel. Depending upon the clock's design, you might have the same problems that any mechanical clock or watch has, PLUS issues related to the electrical supply (but MINUS any winding or mainspring issues).
Transistor clock with balance wheel
Transistor clock with pendulum
ELECTRIC CLOCKS
Some electric clocks use A/C synchronous motors. Their virtue is the clock's speed is directly related to the input frequency - and either 50 Hz or 60 Hz is very dependably supplied in the US and other countries. The Achilles heel of this design is starting torque - these motors have virtually none, so you have to spin a starter wheel, use a gearbox, or get the hands moving somehow. Older clocks are subject to gumming up or the bearings or bushing dry out - so the motor can't keep the hands going. Since they plug into the wall, batteries are not a problem.
Synchronous Clock
FLIP CLOCKS
The flip clock was very popular for a decade or two after its invention around 1950, but it is fragile and laborious to construct. The design provides a digital reading of the time using split number cards moved by a typical synchronous motor. The cards are "flipped" by rotating past a spring finger. Filp clocks may show the time (as mine does) and more complicated models may also display date, day, month, year, etc.
Flip clock
THE QUARTZ CLOCK
I believe that we use the term "quartz" with regard to most clocks because a quartz-crystal frequency source is used in the bulk of our electric clocks today. As is the case with ThomasM's Panerai, or MTF's AP watch brand clocks, standard-sized motors of good Swiss construction can be found in the elaborate and beautifully-finished cases.
Marine quartz clockQuartz clocks are usually battery powered, but you might find the occasional one with an A/C adaptor for mains (line) power. Of course that means the clock should be mounted over a special wall outlet that is recessed to hide the cord.
Battery and line-powered clock motors
QUARTZ CHRONOMETERS
High-end quartz clocks can be assembled from precision components in order to achieve very high rates of dependability and accuracy, for navigation and other professional purposes. This Glashutte clock has a push button (under hatch at bottom left) to provides "hacking seconds" so you can set the clock precisely.
Quartz Marine Chronometer
This photo illustrates a massive improvement in component quality and adjustment precision compared to the typical "black box" quartz clocks shown earlier.
Coin shown for scale
ELECTRIC CLOCK COMPLICATIONS
Quartz Marine Chronometer
This photo illustrates a massive improvement in component quality and adjustment precision compared to the typical "black box" quartz clocks shown earlier.
Coin shown for scale
ELECTRIC CLOCK COMPLICATIONS
Although most quartz clocks have two or three hands and simply tell the time, that's not all they are capable of doing. With suitable imagination and add-on modules, complications can be added for a reasonable increase in cost and complexity.
Quartz Clock with window day and date (rotating like a watch) plus electronic Westminster Chimes (movement shown flipped in right photo)
Motor controlled by electronic chiming/timing module at top left, where batteries are inserted
Quartz Clock with day date rotating back marker
Quartz Clock with moon phase and calendar
German Quartz clock with calendar, moon phase, and chimes
"Farmhouse" quartz clock with small seconds and moon phase driven by two separate movements and a complication module
SUMMARY
SUMMARY
As we've seen here, there are many variations of electric clocks on the market, and this is just scratching the surface. I believe these clocks are nice enough to show that owning a few electric clocks (quartz or otherwise) is a suitable occupation for a Purist.
It is a crime to allow leaking batteries to ruin these nice timekeepers! Part 2 of this series will provide a few tips on forestalling that problem, or rectifying it when it (inevitably) occurs.
Simple tools are usually adequate for cleaning up electric clocks. Baking powder solution neutralizes battery acid and cotton swabs help extract debris
Please share your comments and questions so I can incorporate them in the next post. Thanks for reading.
Cazalea
Electric Clock Maintenance and Repair, Part 2
Welcome to the second installment in a series on maintaining electric clock(s). This post will deal specifically with battery-powered quartz clock movements, as they are the most commonly encountered in consumer-oriented clocks. I'll discuss prevention of damage herein, but the following post will deal with how we can repair any damage our clocks suffer.
MOVEMENT ASSEMBLY
As you see in the illustration below, the whole assembly includes the movement (possibly a hanger), dial, washer, retaining nut, hour and minute hands, and second hand or possibly a cap nut at the end.
Typical square quartz clock and related parts
CLOCK MOVEMENT SHAFTS
You might think that the clock world is standardized but that's not quite true. It's typical that the motors are about the same size, but from there everything can vary. For example, here are the various shaft lengths that I found today as I surveyed the options:
Shaft diameter is more standardized and is usually 8mm (5/16").
MOVEMENT VARIATIONS & COMPLICATIONS
If the movement in your clock has been ruined by a leaky battery or has just expired from old age, you may find it very difficult to locate the correct replacement movement. Here are some of the variations in a "generic black box quartz movement":
There are 10 "generic" quartz movements in this set of Seiko clocks. With the exception of the 2 press-in movements in the dual desk clock, the movements are all different from one another!Regular jumping secondsRegular smooth seconds
High Torque (long hands)Weather resistant / outdoor
Time and TidesTime and ThermometerTime and Timer
Time and Day of the WeekTime and Date of the Month
Time auto adjust by "chip"Time auto adjust by radio/"atomic" signalTime auto adjust by satellite signal (not yet outside Japan)Second time zone
Reverse Time (Barbershop)
PendulumDual Pendulum
Motor case roundMotor case miniatureMotor case clips in place
Button Cell powerAA Cell powerC Cell powerAC power
Chime with speakerChime ext speakerChime 6 melodiesChime 4 melodies ext speakerChime recorder/mic/playbackChime Cuckoo clock
PRESS-IN CLOCK MOVEMENTS
The desk clock uses another form of "generic" quartz clock. The "press-in clock insert" is normally round, with a standard diameter of 36.5mm (1 7/16") and depth of about 9.5mm (3/8"). Notice the receptacle which is optional - you can push the movement right into a hole bored in wood or other backing material.
OTHER MOVEMENT VARIATIONS
Press-in clock movements
OTHER MOVEMENT VARIATIONS
Some of my thin clocks use a tiny movement powered by a watch battery.
Ultra-thin movement with button cell power
Some clock motors are assembled specifically to power complication modules. This is a bit like tacking a Dubois-Depraz chronograph module onto a watch's ETA "motor".
Ultra-thin movement with button cell power
Some clock motors are assembled specifically to power complication modules. This is a bit like tacking a Dubois-Depraz chronograph module onto a watch's ETA "motor".
In this case the quartz clock motor has to have some gears added to the front shaft, to drive the module. For example, my calendar moon phase clock has what looks like a normal quartz movement:
However, when the motor is removed from the module, we can see the gears which need to be powered in addition to the hands which are affixed normally.
The best way to know if your batteries are good or bad is to use a battery tester. Tiny testers with an analog dial that you got at Radio Shack years ago probably aren't adequate anymore. If you have one, toss it and buy a new one that can test each type of battery sold today.
Calendar moon phase clock motor (and corroded area where battery leaked)
However, when the motor is removed from the module, we can see the gears which need to be powered in addition to the hands which are affixed normally.
Calendar module drive gears
Several of my other Seikos have complications that are powered the same way. One of those motors failed, and I had to refit its shaft gear into a newer motor (a total pain) because Seiko considered 20+ years an unreasonable time to stock this specialty part. And I can't blame them.
So let's not let these clocks get ruined by a leaky battery! I'll get back to the battery subject now.
BATTERY POWER
Batteries are small chemical factories which work "around the clock" producing electricity to power small devices. About 3 billion disposable batteries are sold each year in the US. They come in dozens of configurations, but for powering wall clocks, the most commonly used batteries are AA and C cells.
I suspect that most households keep a battery inventory. My parents used to keep theirs in the refrigerator, but I can't waste that space on batteries. Here's my cigar-box full:
Alkaline disposable AA, 9V, C and D Cells
Batteries contain small amounts of toxic materials, so they should be disposed of at a recycling facility. Strangely, the closest places near my house are Barnes & Noble bookstore and Home Depot.
Bad batteries waiting for disposal
The best way to know if your batteries are good or bad is to use a battery tester. Tiny testers with an analog dial that you got at Radio Shack years ago probably aren't adequate anymore. If you have one, toss it and buy a new one that can test each type of battery sold today.
I think this is the best one readily available - it cost me about $75 and after going through a large box of discarded batteries at my office, we were able to reclaim about $100 worth of batteries.
High-quality battery tester
I throw away anything under 40% and replace it with a new battery. It's not uncommon to have one battery at 20% and a second in the same device at 80%. If you need to replace one of a pair, put two new ones in the dual-battery device and put the old one you want to continue using into a unit by itself.
High-quality battery tester
I throw away anything under 40% and replace it with a new battery. It's not uncommon to have one battery at 20% and a second in the same device at 80%. If you need to replace one of a pair, put two new ones in the dual-battery device and put the old one you want to continue using into a unit by itself.
Watch and regular battery testers
ALKALINE BATTERIES
Alkaline batteries have greater output than standard (zinc-chloride) cells because the manganese dioxide chemistry is more efficient (in some ways). An alkaline cell provides three to five times the capacity of a standard battery. However, alkaline battery capacity is related to its load. An AA-sized alkaline battery can have a 3000 mAh capacity at low drain (clock movements), but as little as 700 mAh with a heavy load of 1A (digital cameras). The alkaline cell delivers full capacity on intermittent or continuous light loads. These are all good things for clock fans.
The bad news about alkalines is the noxious byproducts they emit. As alkaline batteries discharge, their chemistry changes and hydrogen gas is generated. This gas increases the pressure in this tiny "voltage factory." Eventually, the pressure either forces its way through insulating seals at the end of the battery, or its seams. Once a leak has formed and the shell begins to corrode, potassium hydroxide escapes and combines with carbon dioxide, forming a potassium carbonate feathery crystalline monster which spreads out along metal electrodes, wires and circuit boards. The crystalline growth can spread from the battery, coating it with fur, and corroding anything it contacts. It causes permanent damage to metal, wood and other clock components.
LITHIUM BATTERIES
Lithium batteries use a completely different chemistry, can be dangerous because they get hot, are expensive and have other issues that make them marginal, in my opinion, for our clocks. So far I have only tried a couple sets, and I found they didn't last very long - less than a year for my digital "atomic" clock.
Battery leak damage
RECHARGEABLE NIMH BATTERIES
Most rechargable batteries today use Nickel-Metal Hydride chemistry. NiMH cells have a faster self-discharge rate than Nickel-Cadmium cells (which are more hazardous and now less common). The self-discharge rate varies greatly with temperature; lower storage temperature is better. This makes them unsuitable for many light-duty uses, such as clocks or smoke alarms, where the battery is expected to last months or years.
A low self-discharge nickel–metal hydride battery (LSD NiMH) was introduced a decade ago by Sanyo. By using different electrode separators and improved positive electrodes, they can retain about 70% to 85% of their capacity for a year at 20 °C (68 °F). Since wall clocks are normally "up on the wall", they operate in higher temperature air than we realize - thus losing power more rapidly. NiMH cells only produce 1.2V compared to 1.5V for alkaline cells, so our clock movements are starved for power, sooner.
RECHARGEABLE BATTERY FEATURES TO LOOK FOR
It is more ecologically friendly to use recyclable batteries, but it's a pain to keep them on hand, charged, and change them more frequently than alkaline. We need a battery that retains a charge for a long time and can power a low, steady drain for a year or two. You don't want a battery optimized for short, high-drain applications like a cordless drill or camera flash unit. We won't want it to leak or burst into flame.
I can't recommend any specific brands, as I know fairly little about this subject. I just look for the largest capacity, which is indicated on the battery itself, and adequate voltage. Also check to see that they are low-self-discharge type (mine are not).
Capacity is indicated on the side, often in small print
If you use rechargable batteries you also will need a charger designed for the type of battery you choose. This is a massive subject in itself. If you go onto Amazon and research the subject, it appears that every third adult male in North America is secretly a battery chemistry engineer, and spends his evenings poring over a bank of digital volt-ammeters in his garage, checking out the quality of every brand of battery and charger. I am NOT one of those guys, although over 40 years, I've accumulated a few chargers.
I now use this "intelligent" La Crosse charger because it came with lots of high-capacity batteries and some adaptors. It works pretty well, but only charges AAA and AA cells. We have 2 because my wife is a PE teacher and her megaphone ("You kids, get away from that cliff!") needs 8 batteries at a time. And she drains them every week; just the opposite of a Purist's clock. The charger has nifty displays and can even let you know there's time for another glass of Pinot Noir before the batteries will be ready.
High-tech battery chargers
I use my older chargers to charge the occasional C cell, and of course every digital camera pretty much demands its own piece of equipment. I have 3 Sony camera chargers. Two are no longer necessary, but I still have them around. I might as well throw them in the recycling box with all the bad batteries. Because battery chemistry has changed dramatically in the last 20 years, older chargers are not really appropriate.
SUMMARY
We've looked at the variety of clock motors and hinted at the obvious virtue in NOT letting batteries mess up the one that came in our favorite clocks.
I've described why alkaline batteries are good for powering clocks, and why they can ruin them. I didn't say it outright, but I feel NiMH rechargeables are safe, ecologically-sound, reasonably priced, yet marginal for powering clocks. I'm now conducting tests ...
At this point, we have enough background on clock movements and batteries. In the next part of this series we will take a few clocks apart and see if we can mitigate the damage from leaking alkaline batteries.
Thanks for patiently reading!
Cazalea
Clock on the bench
This message has been edited by cazalea on 2015-06-11 13:56:45 This message has been edited by cazalea on 2015-06-11 16:26:17 This message has been edited by cazalea on 2015-06-11 17:04:45
Electric Clock Maintenance and Repair, Part 3
This is the third in a series of posts on the subject of keeping our electric wall and desk clocks running.
Looking at the back, we discover it has two separate motors inside, thus it requires two batteries. Normally I would just drop in the batteries, but since the top battery was oozing, more dramatic measures were necessary.
I was amazed to find the clock was filled with spiders, dead ant bodies, and a couple other small creatures. I used a hand vacuum to extract all the biological debris.
CLOCK MAINTENANCE - EXAMPLE TWO
My Seiko desktop calendar moon phase clock was running well, but I opened it just for interest when considering this series of posts. I was aghast because the "ultra performance" battery was leaking into the complication module.
Once the movement was out of the way I could see the extent of the damage, which was minor. I cleaned off the corrosion and applied anti-corrosive solvent.
Since I am not equipped to anodize aluminum, I coated the bare metal with several heavy layers of ink from my permanent markers.
The result isn't perfect but it's better than leaving bare metal. I was happy to see that the corrosion did not get into any parts of the module, and the clock is working fine after its repair. I cleaned the glass inside and out, put the hands back on, and reassembled the clock case.
The battery wires leading over to the left (the chiming module) had completely rotted off. The green/white wire is a new piece I soldered on. I also had to open the module, clean the circuit board, and replace some rotten solder. Luckily the motor is separate from the battery case, and "uphill" quite a ways from the corrosion.
When I removed the standard quartz movement motor, I discovered a little gear was pressed on underneath the hands. This gear engages with the day-date module and advances them each day. I discovered this clear plastic ratchet arm had broken off the mechanism, and that's why it wasn't advancing properly. There's no way I'll get any new parts, and so I jury-rigged a solution that's working fine at themovement moment.
Here are two views of the movement day/date assembly. On the righthand image I have inverted the movement so you can see the rest of the moving parts. I suspect you could put a battery into the movement motor and power it directly, but then the chiming module wouldn't know what time it is, and when to chime which hour.
It looks a lot like a Seiko diver wristwatch day date wheel!
Getting all this apart is a lot of work, and involved removing the glass and the hands from the front side.
Here it is with another day-date clock whose motor burnt out. I thought I documented its repair last year, but I haven't found the photos for it and I'm not taking it apart unless I really have to!
CLOCK MAINTENANCE - EXAMPLE FOUR
I could go on and on, but I won't bore you with more examples. Go change those batteries in your clocks!
SUMMARY
PS - three days after posting this, I used my battery checker and it seemed a little flaky. Opening the battery compartment, I found corrosion!! Even in the battery tester, with 50% or greater life remaining on all 4 AA cells. Moral? Go change those batteries in all your devices. This message has been edited by cazalea on 2015-06-16 15:25:43
Most clocks (in my limited experience) are damaged in two ways:
"The instruction manual is lost" is a third reason that clocks fall out of use. Luckily the Internet generally allows us to find the setting instructions, because memory just isn't quite as long as the life of an alkaline battery...1. the battery leaks, corroding and ruining the movement, wiring or case2. the clock gets knocked off the wall or desk, falls to the floor and the glass or case breaks
I'll use a couple of my clocks as examples for changing the battery in your clocks.
CLOCK MAINTENANCE - EXAMPLE ONE
Because I was moving things in my office, I took this clock off the wall and discovered a badly leaking battery which was still powering it adequately. If I had waited until the clock stopped it would have been damaged even more.
Looking at the back, we discover it has two separate motors inside, thus it requires two batteries. Normally I would just drop in the batteries, but since the top battery was oozing, more dramatic measures were necessary.
I was amazed to find the clock was filled with spiders, dead ant bodies, and a couple other small creatures. I used a hand vacuum to extract all the biological debris.
The insides are pretty basic. Small pads of plywood are stapled and glue to the back of the dial and the movements fit onto them. The top motor drives a moon phase module (separately adjustable from the time) and is mounted on a metal plate.
I needed to remove all the corrosion and wanted to ensure the debris did not get in and stain the dial. So I used small swabs to clean off all the visible stuff, and then to apply anti-corrosion fluid. Even the mounting screws were corroded so I took them out and put them into a small container of baking soda and water. Eventually it ate away the verdigris and I got the screws clean. I lubricated them to resist future corrosion, and put them back in.
Note that I couldn't remove the motor because the hands are pressed onto the shaft, so it wouldn't come out. I couldn't remove the glass without pulling staples out around the perimeter of the case. Sometimes I do have to remove the hands, but I don't recommend it unless necessary because they are easy to damage.
Here's a close-up shot of the movement once the cover and creatures were removed. At this point the battery receptacle is clean, and the screws are ready to go back in.
The clock is now back together and functioning well. There was no damage to the metal parts of the movement plate.
Here's a close-up shot of the movement once the cover and creatures were removed. At this point the battery receptacle is clean, and the screws are ready to go back in.
My Seiko desktop calendar moon phase clock was running well, but I opened it just for interest when considering this series of posts. I was aghast because the "ultra performance" battery was leaking into the complication module.
I pulled the battery out, cleaned what I could from the receptacle, and concluded that I needed to remove the motor. That meant dismantling the clock and removing the hands. Fortunately the hands on the subdials did not need to come off.
Once the movement was out of the way I could see the extent of the damage, which was minor. I cleaned off the corrosion and applied anti-corrosive solvent.
Since I am not equipped to anodize aluminum, I coated the bare metal with several heavy layers of ink from my permanent markers.
The result isn't perfect but it's better than leaving bare metal. I was happy to see that the corrosion did not get into any parts of the module, and the clock is working fine after its repair. I cleaned the glass inside and out, put the hands back on, and reassembled the clock case.
CLOCK MAINTENANCE - EXAMPLE THREE
I've repaired this chiming Seiko day date clock twice. Both times it was due to leaking batteries. The last time (this past weekend) I didn't open the clock because it had stopped, only because it had a broken day-date change.
I have to keep a close eye on this clock, as it will chime and keep time long after the leaking starts. The first time was very dramatic.
Notice at the bottom right corner how dark the fiberboard back has become. It was totally saturated with leakage and had swollen to twice its original thickness. I had to remove the back, clean it thoroughly with baking powder / water solution, then put some dilute household glue into the "mushy" composition board, and clamp it tightly for a day.
The battery wires leading over to the left (the chiming module) had completely rotted off. The green/white wire is a new piece I soldered on. I also had to open the module, clean the circuit board, and replace some rotten solder. Luckily the motor is separate from the battery case, and "uphill" quite a ways from the corrosion.
When I removed the standard quartz movement motor, I discovered a little gear was pressed on underneath the hands. This gear engages with the day-date module and advances them each day. I discovered this clear plastic ratchet arm had broken off the mechanism, and that's why it wasn't advancing properly. There's no way I'll get any new parts, and so I jury-rigged a solution that's working fine at the
Here are two views of the movement day/date assembly. On the righthand image I have inverted the movement so you can see the rest of the moving parts. I suspect you could put a battery into the movement motor and power it directly, but then the chiming module wouldn't know what time it is, and when to chime which hour.
It looks a lot like a Seiko diver wristwatch day date wheel!
Getting all this apart is a lot of work, and involved removing the glass and the hands from the front side.
Here it is with another day-date clock whose motor burnt out. I thought I documented its repair last year, but I haven't found the photos for it and I'm not taking it apart unless I really have to!
Notice that although they look completely different, the day ring is on the inside and the date ring on the outside in both cases. If you think through the alternatives, it could be that they operate exactly the same way! Rather than moving a date ring, the motor turns a three-spoked wheel with a black pad (behind the day), and single-spoked wheel with a red pad (behind the date). You put your finger in the slot and rotate the day - date wheels to set them, in both cases.
CLOCK MAINTENANCE - EXAMPLE FOUR
This skeleton clock is quartz powered and usually sits on the shelf next to my Atmos clock, which needs very little attention. As I was finishing up this article I took at glance at it. It was running fine and on time.
The battery said titanium. Hmmm. That's good, not alkaline. Then I noticed in very fine print "alkaline" and "good til 2011". Argh! I pulled the clock off the shelf, extracted the battery and made a close examination. White fuzz!
Taking a couple cotton swaps dampened with solvent, I cleaned the contacts. The white fuzz came right off - because it was a scrap of tissue (apparently from someone wiping the contacts before I got it).
Whew! The battery tested at 10%. Maybe just in time?
I put an experimental rechargeable battery into the clock and set the time. Elapsed time, 5 minutes.
I could go on and on, but I won't bore you with more examples. Go change those batteries in your clocks!
SUMMARY
Alkaline clock batteries are ideal power units for clocks with one exception - they invariably leak - before they stop powering the clock. Thus you don't know its happening. Other batteries go dead sooner, but don't always damage your clock when they die. While swapping a battery is inexpensive and fast, repairing damage from corrosion is a nuisance and takes a bit of time and care. Fortunately, a couple screwdrivers, some cotton swabs and caution is usually all you need to repair your quartz clocks.
Thanks for coming along through so much text and so many photos. Please let me know if there are more things I can address in a concluding post for this series.
Cheers,
Cazalea