Richard Mille

A couple of days ago, Richard Mille came to Singapore to present his 2009 collection at the latest uber-luxury hotel in Singapore, the Capella Resort on Sentosa. He invited Dr Bernard Cheong to be on stage with him during the presentation. Bernard asked several interesting questions, most notably if the prices of watches will continue to rise. Richard indicated he believes they will because the cost of components and labour will continue to rise. He did not say if prices of watches will rise at a higher rate the the rise in cost of parts.

Richard also spoke about certain themes which he always touches on. They included his passion, innovation and being a contrarian. He gave the examples of the RM009 ultra-light tourbillon ('people think expensive watches must be heavy... that is perceived value, not real value') and the RM020 pocket watch to prove that being different can be incredibly successful, and lucrative also though he left that unsaid.

A moment of humour came when Bernard asked what was his biggest regret in life so far. The response: "Not learning Italian!" Throughout the event, Richard was Richard, a bon vivant who is always engaging.

Photos of the new collection are contained in my follow-up posts to this one.

- SJX

This message has been edited by SJX on 2009-05-09 03:41:37

This one is easily the star of the show, the RM019 Celtic Knot Ladies Tourbillon. When I first saw pictures of this I thought it was another lame attempt to create a high-priced ladies watch but in the metal, this is one of the best looking ladies watches unveiled this year. That is particularly notable since this is a year with several amazing ladies high complications, for example the Chalcedony tourbillon from AP at SIHH.

The diamond-set Celtic Knot weaves its way through the dial side of the movement, it is both elegant and extraordinarily beautiful. Set against the black metal of the movement and the bright white gold of the case, this watch looks good. Interestingly, the baseplate is black onyx, rather than the typical high-tech carbon nanofibre.

As RM matures and expands, it is inevitable that most of its products will be less inspired, some even downright inane or ugly, but Richard has managed to produce at least one incredible timepiece each year and this one is it.  

- SJX

 

This message has been edited by SJX on 2009-05-08 22:59:45

of the piece is from the RM006.  Built up from the carbon fibre base plate.  I loved the way the diamond celtic knot forms an eternal loop - much like the idea of tourbillon escapement - the balance spring in perpetual motion against the cage. 

Thanks

Andrew H

says RM002 PG . Hmm a reflection of the Co's QC standard ???

Apologies for not stating so in my post.

- SJX

A manual wind tourbillon pocket watch; a brilliant idea with deftly sculpted case and muscular chain. One independent watchmaker cited this watch earlier this year as an example of RM's brilliance and contrarian instincts. Isn't the pocket watch dead?

But at about EUR200,000 and a whopping 62 x 52 mm in size, one would need deep pockets in both senses to accomodate this. Personally I'd prefer this as a small desk clock rather than in my pocket.

- SJX

This message has been edited by SJX on 2009-05-08 23:03:17

worn either as a pocket watch or as desk clock.  Jeans, blazer, and this with chain in the pocket would look so cool one would imagine.  However, the price simply does not help me either!

Thanks for some great photos of the watch.

Andrew H

RM has moved from F1 cars to yachts (Perini Navi) for inspiration, and now he's onto aviation - is he running out of ideas? This watch seems to indicate so but then the RM019 Celtic Knot changed my mind. 

The RM019 watch was not shown during the event, but based on photos it lacks the oomph that the truly great RM watches possess. The dial appears too elaborate, especially the honeycomb baseplate, which is fabricated from "titanium and honeycombed orthorhombic titanium aluminide with carbon nanofibre core". Orthorhomic titanium aluminide is used for aircraft wings and apparently offers low thermal coefficient, stiffness and "exceptional torsion resistance". What that really means is that this is the same RM tourbillon calibre seen in half the product range with a new baseplate material and a different aesthetic.

And funny enough, the first thing that came to my head when I saw the name of the watch - not the watch itself - was anodyne.

- SJX

 

This message has been edited by SJX on 2009-05-08 23:09:47

rubber on it, on the second picure is different surface. These are official press pictures from Richard Mille? Why it is different material?

otherwise nice watch in my opinion.

Carl

No message body

Hi!

Does someone know which will be the price for the RM 021 titanium?

This is essentially an RM005 in a slightly larger case with an awful Roman numeral dial. Its size is in between that of the RM007 and RM010. It wasn't shown that day but I am certain did not miss anything.

- SJX

 

This message has been edited by SJX on 2009-05-08 23:10:19

dial design
cheers

This 50.70 mm diameter diver's tourbillon chronograph in rose gold and titanium - which retails for approximately EUR400,000 - is as ridiculous as it sounds. Though it is rated to 300 m, it is even further from a diver's watch than the last great diver's watch of the decade, the Roger Dubuis with the square, immovable diver's bezel. But Richard likes to surprise, and with each subsequent surprise the price rises exponentially, so this watch is certainly in true RM style.

That being said, the extraodinarily complex case construction is a wonder to behold, the bezel alone has three layers and 24 screws. Obviously a true diver's watch should have a simpler construction - less is more in extreme environments since it offers less opportunity for equipment failure - but this is a great watch to look at.

- SJX

This message has been edited by SJX on 2009-05-08 23:16:27

The All Grey collection is a new look for existing RM watches. A sandblasted titanium case is combined with a grey PVD-coating carbon nanofibre baseplate leaving the watch reminiscent of the RM009 ultra-light tourbillon. Though these watches are not particularly creative, they are attractive.

- SJX

RM002-V2 All Grey

RM003-V2 All Grey

RM004-V2 All Grey

RM008-V2 All Grey

 

This message has been edited by SJX on 2009-05-08 23:19:32

Well...i think the Celtic Knot looks very good and should be a must for the lucky ladies out there.

 

 

Regards

Well, the all grey collection is interesting, aesthetically speaking.

The association of a sandblasted case and the design of these watches is working in a nice way, IMO.

I'm still wondering why RM launched the Diving Tourbillon.

Big, thick, with , to me, a total lack of inspiration.

Thanks for sharing, SJX.

Best,

Nicolas

 

 

very specific and a true part of the trade mark, I am not part of the people giving the ohhh, and the ahhh, when new models come out.
The diver's watch is simply  a round RM to my eyes, but surely not a diver's watch which from their origins were watches designed with 3 ideas in mind:
tough
simple
easy to read.
the RM is probably tough, but for the other points we are "miles" away...

the lady's watch is interesting but which lady is going to wear that?

I guess I would be more sensitive to the RM watches if the dials were easier to read. I like to wear a watch to occasionally check what time it is.

in the end, the RM I like best it the massive clock that is in Quebec, in Canada.

Not too crazy about the AG Collection but it's great to finally see some real-life pics of the pocket watch, the RM019 and the RM025. The diver looks amazing. Can't wait to see shots of it in action, lume shots included.... 8-)

but isn't the rm016 and rm011 missing here? or they were not out yet? i think they are limited to a unique model and LE 10. Did u hear of that? I wonder also if there is a grey rubber strap. I am telling u about it, because i am on the edge of triggering :P
Nice post

K

opinion on my side as well. I feel that the direction has gone towards shock and awe with no soul underneath. There was as you had clearly stated in your post a very strong aesthetic when he first came out but somehow lost focus?

Unfortunately, a very close comparison in my amateurish eyes to what is happening now is what transpired at RD/Roger Dubuis when they were still independent. When they first came out, they were subtle with very strong hints of being classically styled. The next stage evolved into the Golden Square/Sympathie lines which I still admired despite slightly veering off from initial impressions but when they veered off into the Easy Diver et all, I lost all interest in them.

I still admire RM for what he has done and still love to wear the few pieces that I have. Will I buy any of their newer models from them? Probably not. If I do opt to part with my money to spend on RM, I will probably get a piece which has eluded me all this time for reasons here and there. But unfortunately, it is one of the older models...

and I can appreciate where your argument lies. There is a fine line between the shock of the new that leads to an innovative direction, and the feeling that art has now become cynical and brash: art for art's sake.  A nudge at the wrong time and what was once avant garde and innovative becomes brash and tardy.

I would tend to agree that at this point in time, this might be the case.  However, I for one would not rule out that Richard will once again find focus.  RM has expanded so quickly in the 10 short years since it was set up.  At the higher end, and beyond my price capabilities, he is a true original and the RM002/6/9/12 and now 18 and 19 are all stand out pieces.  I would argue the same for the clocks and the RM020.  A new direction and potential aesthetic is needed to bring new life to the line, but this will take time to find. I personally believe he will find it.  I do not believe it lies with the RM025.

Hope all is well and thanks for looking in.

Andrew H

I wholly separate the individual and the work, and Richard's iconoclastic presence is wholly noted.  It is, though, the work that will matter and the recent body of work seems stuck in a nasty bit of muck. 

I hope you are well, and we shall both look forward to Richard's new work.

Very best,

Douglas

looking forward with renewed interest as to when RM gets back on track.

Once the current trend of limited editions with slight case variations
from existing watches is over, let's hope Richard Mille concentrates on
introducing a less expensive watch that will have more widespread appeal
that will get more people interested in Richard Mille watches. When
Journe introduced the Chronometre Souverain, interest in Journe increased
significantly. The Journe CS is well-made and is at a price point that can
be afforded by more people than a typical Journe watch. RM needs a
well-made watch with a price point even below that of RM010. It should
be one that shares the DNA of other RM watches. It should be produced in
enough numbers to get it out amongst a lot of watch enthusiasts, but it
should not be mass produced, so it is still exclusive. Such a legend
is needed right now to keep the interest in RM. Once interest in RM
increases, there will be more of a market for the higher-end RMs.
Eric von Schonberg

The only drawback to creating an even lower price point below the RM10 is the brand may turn more "commercial" but I think it's worth it.  Journe was very exclusive several years ago but it's more commercial now and interest seems to be blossoming with the release of lower priced models such as the CS.  Daniel Roth seems to be possibly making the same move with the introduction of the its Endurer Chronosprint.  It would be great if RM could release an entry level model which costed $10k IMO.

- AT

Now that the RM010 has been developed it likely costs RM
very little incrementally to make each RM010. I'd be very
surprised if it costs even $3,000 in labor and materials to
make each RM010, and it's even possible that my $3,000 guess
is on the high side. The RM010 is an uncomplicated watch,
which can be assembled very quickly, and its materials do
not include precious metals. Other brands make watches
of similar complexity and materials and still make a profit
selling them for under $2,000. By getting a lot of
$10,000 RM010s out there, lots more watch enthusiasts will
become aware of RM. Once these collectors take notice
of RM, it will be inevitable that some will want a more exclusive
and more complicated RM, and since they are more complicated
and rarer, they will still sell for a much higher price
above the entry RM010. Ironically, by selling more
RM010s and getting the RM brand name out there, there should
be significantly more demand for the more complicated RMs
and they may end up selling for a lot more even than they do
now.
Eric von Schonberg

While it may look like Richard Mille has lost its way recently, what I think
is really going on is not unique to Richard Mille. Right now, with the world
economy in a very slow phase, most watch manufacturers are not investing large
sums of money to make major developments in horology. Instead, they are making
less costly investments modifying the cases designs or even just the metal of
the cases. That's why we see such new RM watches like the all-grey series.
Once the economy improves, I expect to see more innovative movement design
from RM.
Eric von Schonberg

nt