Comments:
2016 saw many changes at the Manufacture. Among them, a very important one is certainly the fact that Jaeger Lecoultre decided to gather all the artistic skills under the same roof and place, in the same building than the Spécialités Horlogères Workshop, some floors below.
Before, each atelier ( workshop ) worked separately, and you had to walk through the innumerable and endless corridors to see all of them. It is not only a good change for the visitor, but also, and most of all, for these artists who work there. Indeed, now, they can work together on some common projects, exchange, discuss, and be a source of inspiration for each other, the atelier being organized by speciality, each having its own place divided by some glass walls.
Now, the visitor is welcomed in an anteroom, where his eyes will immediately fall on a huge round wooden table, with a big round screen at the center. Via an astute system, the screen communicates with each of the artisans working in the workshop, and we can follow the progression of his work " à la demande ", without physically disturbing him.
The anteroom:
Indeed, this giant screen allows you to see in all the details the microscopic work, with a reserve: Imagine you have the pleasure to see the enameler painting a dial, reproducing a Van Gogh piece of Art. On the giant screen, it seems easy to do, but you are just forgetting that he is working on a 30, 31 or 32 mm dial, and you don't realize all the skill which is required to achieve such a work of Art, in terms of precision. You loose a bit the reality of the proportions, the difficulty of the challenge.
This anteroom doesn't prevent a visit, you still can physically see the artist in action, and how tough is his work. For example, I met the enameler and saw him painting " his " dial. When you have the proportions under your eyes, you still wonder how he does to achieve that... Magic, as I am short in words to describe what you are feeling in front of such a spectacle.
What are the specialities housed in the Atelier des Métiers Rares ( Rare Crafts Workshop )?
Enameling, Guilloché, Engraving and Skeleton Work, and Gem setting.
Here are working eleven gem setters, seven enamelers, five engravers, one person dedicated to guilloché, 3 for chamfering and one polisher.
-> Enameling:
Painting, cloisonné, champlevé, here, they know all the technics of enameling, the grand feu enameling, to be precise. Here is what I found to describe their work, and to give you an idea of the toughness of their job:
" The artisans work with a gold case featuring a 0, 4 mm recess coated with three layers of white enamel. The motif is then designed using enamel fragments colored by metal oxidized crushed to powder and mixed with oil. Firing in a kiln heated to 800°C solidifies the matter on its base.
This Grand Feu enameling technique endows the models thus adorned with exceptional purity and longevity. Six to ten layers of transparent protective enamel are then applied to the dial that is carefully sanded and polished to achieve a shiny, finely glazed appearance. Each piece is fired between 17 and 22 ( !!! ) times during the vitrification process. "
Some pictures I could take of the enameling:
Some dials... The Chinese zodiacal signs is mounted in a watch which is owned by one of our lucky fellows. The Einstein is a test, if I remember correctly.
-> Guilloché:
That is a well known dare I say historical skill which is dearly appreciated by watch lovers. The guilloché gives an artistic dimension to our beloved dials. Here I am speaking of the hand made guilloché, not the industrial one. Two guilloché dials, and a Gyrotourbillon cage...
A picture of the machine used for the guilloché. When it is all about Tradition...
-> Engraving and skeleton work:
Here, there is no other limit than the imagination of the owner and his wallet, as everything can be achieved, in the respect of the morality and the manufacture values.
As you can see, the possibilities are vast. I specially love the one on the left of the 207 Spider Club.
An engraving of the Reverso Mucha, before being enameled, which illustrates how good it is to work in the same room.
The owner can also meet the engraver, to discuss with him and to precise what kind of decoration he desires. I have been told that it happened, not only for the pleasure of the owner, but also for the engraver. They are quite proud to show their work and to collaborate with the owner.
-> Gem Setting:
Milling, drilling, housing the precious gems in the case, dial or bezel, sometimes in the bracelet, you have to experience that live, to understand that it is not given to everyone to do that.
Here, it is not about the tools, they are old, traditional, all the merit has to be given to the gem setter. With these tools...
The " magician " gives birth to that, a technique called snow setting.
Among other creations... Have a look at the Reverso Neva:
Can you imagine the amount of time required to achieve that? I would not have such a patience nor the predisposition to do it.
Of course, I could not miss the visit of this new rare crafts workshop, which was the main reason of my venue to the Manufacture. This is the kind of universe, gathering this sum of talents, which distinguishes a true Manufacture from the others.
A last detail which is worth being added: As in some other workshops, Jaeger Lecoultre decided to put together apprentices and masters in order to transmit the knowledge between generations. Smart and wise.
If you ever visit the Manufacture, ask your guide to show you this workshop. The Spécialités Horlogères is a dream, this atelier is complementing it.
Looking forward to reading your comments and thoughts,
Best.
Nicolas
A visit at the JLC Manufacture: The " Atelier des Métiers Rares ".
2016 saw many changes at the Manufacture. Among them, a very important one is certainly the fact that Jaeger Lecoultre decided to gather all the artistic skills under the same roof and place, in the same building than the Spécialités Horlogères Workshop, some floors below.
Before, each atelier ( workshop ) worked separately, and you had to walk through the innumerable and endless corridors to see all of them. It is not only a good change for the visitor, but also, and most of all, for these artists who work there. Indeed, now, they can work together on some common projects, exchange, discuss, and be a source of inspiration for each other, the atelier being organized by speciality, each having its own place divided by some glass walls.
Now, the visitor is welcomed in an anteroom, where his eyes will immediately fall on a huge round wooden table, with a big round screen at the center. Via an astute system, the screen communicates with each of the artisans working in the workshop, and we can follow the progression of his work " à la demande ", without physically disturbing him.
The anteroom:
Indeed, this giant screen allows you to see in all the details the microscopic work, with a reserve: Imagine you have the pleasure to see the enameler painting a dial, reproducing a Van Gogh piece of Art. On the giant screen, it seems easy to do, but you are just forgetting that he is working on a 30, 31 or 32 mm dial, and you don't realize all the skill which is required to achieve such a work of Art, in terms of precision. You loose a bit the reality of the proportions, the difficulty of the challenge.
This anteroom doesn't prevent a visit, you still can physically see the artist in action, and how tough is his work. For example, I met the enameler and saw him painting " his " dial. When you have the proportions under your eyes, you still wonder how he does to achieve that... Magic, as I am short in words to describe what you are feeling in front of such a spectacle.
What are the specialities housed in the Atelier des Métiers Rares ( Rare Crafts Workshop )?
Enameling, Guilloché, Engraving and Skeleton Work, and Gem setting.
Here are working eleven gem setters, seven enamelers, five engravers, one person dedicated to guilloché, 3 for chamfering and one polisher.
-> Enameling:
Painting, cloisonné, champlevé, here, they know all the technics of enameling, the grand feu enameling, to be precise. Here is what I found to describe their work, and to give you an idea of the toughness of their job:
" The artisans work with a gold case featuring a 0, 4 mm recess coated with three layers of white enamel. The motif is then designed using enamel fragments colored by metal oxidized crushed to powder and mixed with oil. Firing in a kiln heated to 800°C solidifies the matter on its base.
This Grand Feu enameling technique endows the models thus adorned with exceptional purity and longevity. Six to ten layers of transparent protective enamel are then applied to the dial that is carefully sanded and polished to achieve a shiny, finely glazed appearance. Each piece is fired between 17 and 22 ( !!! ) times during the vitrification process. "
Some pictures I could take of the enameling:
Some dials... The Chinese zodiacal signs is mounted in a watch which is owned by one of our lucky fellows. The Einstein is a test, if I remember correctly.
-> Guilloché:
That is a well known dare I say historical skill which is dearly appreciated by watch lovers. The guilloché gives an artistic dimension to our beloved dials. Here I am speaking of the hand made guilloché, not the industrial one. Two guilloché dials, and a Gyrotourbillon cage...
A picture of the machine used for the guilloché. When it is all about Tradition...
-> Engraving and skeleton work:
Here, there is no other limit than the imagination of the owner and his wallet, as everything can be achieved, in the respect of the morality and the manufacture values.
As you can see, the possibilities are vast. I specially love the one on the left of the 207 Spider Club.
An engraving of the Reverso Mucha, before being enameled, which illustrates how good it is to work in the same room.
The owner can also meet the engraver, to discuss with him and to precise what kind of decoration he desires. I have been told that it happened, not only for the pleasure of the owner, but also for the engraver. They are quite proud to show their work and to collaborate with the owner.
-> Gem Setting:
Milling, drilling, housing the precious gems in the case, dial or bezel, sometimes in the bracelet, you have to experience that live, to understand that it is not given to everyone to do that.
Here, it is not about the tools, they are old, traditional, all the merit has to be given to the gem setter. With these tools...
The " magician " gives birth to that, a technique called snow setting.
Among other creations... Have a look at the Reverso Neva:
Can you imagine the amount of time required to achieve that? I would not have such a patience nor the predisposition to do it.
Of course, I could not miss the visit of this new rare crafts workshop, which was the main reason of my venue to the Manufacture. This is the kind of universe, gathering this sum of talents, which distinguishes a true Manufacture from the others.
A last detail which is worth being added: As in some other workshops, Jaeger Lecoultre decided to put together apprentices and masters in order to transmit the knowledge between generations. Smart and wise.
If you ever visit the Manufacture, ask your guide to show you this workshop. The Spécialités Horlogères is a dream, this atelier is complementing it.
Looking forward to reading your comments and thoughts,
Best.
Nicolas
Oooh , I love cloisonne
Many moons ago I had an cloisonne omega yes the Neptune .... i sold it to pay my wedding hahaha , bad choice
Very, very interesting!
Good morning my dear friend, I would be delighted to come and visit this beautiful manufacture one day....
Best.
G.
Best.
G.
This is like a fairytale.. Almost all is possible.. Great pics & travel through Haute Horlogérie
Thx for this very special post;
as I will be at the Manufacture, I will
try to see it, next to all the other excitement..
Best, hs
as I will be at the Manufacture, I will
try to see it, next to all the other excitement..
Best, hs
LoLoL !.. But thx, coming in a small group from my country via the JLC Boutique.. And hope to be able to do some nice pics :)))
Hopefully it's no problem to make photos there & I hope
to have enough time, as well. - A day is long & short as well..
.. My very first visit to the manufacture, (23/9) !
Cheers & Best,
hs
to have enough time, as well. - A day is long & short as well..
.. My very first visit to the manufacture, (23/9) !
Cheers & Best,
hs
We will wait for your report, my friend. Have fun, there. You won't have that much to wait. [nt]
No message body
Been there and ...
Your pictures and text describes very well the amount of ... art there.
I was just speechless.
Thanks for the great post.
Cheers,
Nilo
I was just speechless.
Thanks for the great post.
Cheers,
Nilo
A giant round screen?
And no wires visible in the photo. It is magic - are the images projected from the ceiling or do the come up out of the tabletop?
I appreciate the value of having these artisans together and the savings (for everyone) in walking around the buildings and going through endless departments.
Thanks for reporting again. Is there a direct helicopter flight from Chez Amanico to JLC?
Cazalea
I appreciate the value of having these artisans together and the savings (for everyone) in walking around the buildings and going through endless departments.
Thanks for reporting again. Is there a direct helicopter flight from Chez Amanico to JLC?
Cazalea
They come out out the table top, Mike. As for the helicopter, no, I came by TGV ( Bullet Train ). ;) [nt]
No message body
Yes that Einstein is a test....
for my nerves 
What a splendid idea
and top notch execution
I'm sure that one would bring my dad to the light side
Thank you for sharing this great details
Sincerely
D
What a splendid idea
and top notch execution
I'm sure that one would bring my dad to the light side
Thank you for sharing this great details
Sincerely
D
I thought you would like that one, when I took the picture. Thanks, Damjan. [nt]
No message body
You have done us a great service with this report.
What a wonderful trip it would be to visit this true manufacture.
Really great article...
While JLC's "kissing cousin" makes a bigger deal about "Rare Handcrafts," JLC keeps plugging away, doing what was done 100 years ago, and hands down the technical knowledge from Master to Apprentice - something I doubt is done much anywhere else.
I can't wait to go back again and see the new workshop.
-Dean
Well, I guess that when you are a real manufacture you don't have to shout it " on the roofs " as we use to say in France. [nt]
No message body
Wonderful.
Totally engrossing experience, just from viewing your images, much more I can imagine from experiencing it yourself. The Einstein enamel (which you say is a test) still stands out as the nicest enamel I have seen to date! In terms of the case-back engravings I totally agree the most original one is the swiss bar-code X), though I am sure the majority of people could easily find something highly personal to place on the watch. Thanks a bunch for the beautiful report!! Cheers, Filip
Yes, Filip, this is an experience to live in the real life. And meeting each of these artists was another strong experience, too. Thanks! [nt]
No message body
i like the concept very much...
a very simple way to bring in customization at a sensible price point...
also this creates a diverse range of design options for a customer !
albeit there is an app on iP for this, i think walking into this place is an experience by itself !!
thanks for sharing Nico, i love the enamel dials...splendid !!!
best,
mahesh.,
I saw these workshops separately, some years ago.
It is a totally different feeling to see them gathered in the same place, indeed.
The sum of skills is really impressive.
Enamel dials? That is a passion we share, my friend. So you can imagine how I felt when looking at these creations!
Best,
Nicolas
It is in Le Sentier, not in Paris. But Paris is closer to Le Sentier than the place you live in, right now, indeed. [nt]
No message body
Great post. Thank you.. So am I correct ...
in understanding that the buyer can order a customized watch from JLC ?
If the answer is yes, is there a link that explains the process, such as what parts can be customized and possible cost estimates ?
Thanks again for the great post.
Cheers
Jim
Special engravings or enamel is always possible. You have to put yourself in contact with JLC...
Through a boutique or an AD, and everything is possible. The sky and the height of the wallet are the only limits.
Best,
Nicolas
Best,
Nicolas