Audemars Piguet

The first Royal Oak was “born” in 1972, already 40 years ago. Most of you know this, for sure. I guess quite a lot of you would agree that the 5402 was a king, when it was introduced – even when it was in steel.

 

There have been lots of evolutions (size, movement, design variations …) and today there is a big family after 40 years. A number of sizes have been offered (33.5mm – 42mm), if we speak only about the “simple” ones.

Different metals (or should I say materials, if we count in the ROO´s and concept watches?), different movements (Iterations from JLC, from F. Piguet, in-house … even Quartz was available), different complications … - some of them highly exclusive and desirable.

 

My question to all of you is :

Who is the (current) king in that royal family?

 

Is it the new 15202 – in steel?

Is it another member from the 40´s anniversary collection?

Made in steel, red gold or platinum?

Is it the new “basic” RO 15400? Is it another one from the (current?!) collection?

So, now it is up to you. Looking forward to get your point of view. Will work on mine, meanwhile

 

Oliver

This message has been edited by small-luxury-world on 2012-03-02 07:32:02

Damn you, I prepared a post on the 40th B.DAY with the same stuff!!!

Ok, will post it in April!

Back to your topic, my favourite is by far the 15202, which is faithful to the original, at the exception of the see through case back, but the movement is not ugly, soo it is ok.

Then, the RO skeleton Tourbillon, which is really awesome to look at.

My worse, at least in my taste: The ROO Diver... The Aquatimer from AP.

I will go deeply in the details in April...

Best,

Nicolas

there couldn´t be a proclamation of a new king, but for shure

the new 15202 is a dignified descendand ( after a long time) of the 5402

regards

stephan

 

 

heirloom and proud carrier of the "jumbo"title....no doubt...

Others are good and even magnificent,but THE ro is the Jumbo.

Mo

this new version is a perfect homage to the original while being different at the same time.  Love the date wheel colour matching the dial...gorgeous.

Just out of interest when this first came out 40 years ago was it popular..? It seems modern by todays taste so it must have looked very strange in 1972.

Great post Oliver,

Andy.

Just the perfect evolution and homage at the same time.  Quite a unique accomplishment by AP.

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Hard to improve on the original even for Genta himself. There aren't any RO for Genta after the RO if you know what I mean.

Maybe he new AP 15400 will be known as the Super Size.  

but I admit that the 15202 is extremely nice, love the dark date disc.

Cheers, from Down Under

Francois

Although I admit I am a bit biased....

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This one is the return of the king!  

..........15202, no doubt. I'm not sure about the new dimensions, would love to compare both 15202 and see how they feel on the wrist. When I tried it on at the SIHH, the feeling wasn't the expected, I don't know why.

As I said before, I love the 37 mm, find it very balanced.

 

I keep this from your vintage ads, SOME THINGS IN LIFE SPEAK FOR THEMSELVES. Could not agree more with this, and the Royal Oak is a perfect example.

 

 

Keep us updated on your decission.

 

 

Best.

 

 

Vte

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... if only it is available in the perfect state (meaning, box and papers and like new condition), but it is now unlikely, so I would call the new 15202 the King.  What I like about the new King is its background color of the date and of course display back.  A bit thicker than 5402 is a bit disappointing, but that's acceptable.  Is on my shopping list - hopefully in a few years

Thanks for an interesting thread, Oliver!

Ken

The thinness of the 5402 is remarkable, which is ont the case anymore with the 15202... not that it is not acceptable, don't get me wrong, but it is just not remarkable.

And to me, it makes a big difference.

Would the 15202 have been thinner with a solid case back instead of this see through case back?

Maybe, maybe...

Best,

Nicolas

I already envy you for your 5402A!!

Ken

Will try to take a decent picture of my set... Box, and paper.

Best,

Nicolas

... you know who to call, mon ami?

Ken

I am not on your list.

Bastard! Devil! ... did I forget anything?



Cheers,
Oliver

of the candidates with the most votes, even when it was not allways clear to me if the vote was for the "old" or the new one.

This is my reply:

A Royal Oak in RG with a tourbillon is for sure an impressive watch and one I could imagine on a CEO´s wrist on holiday.

Of course it is available in steel as well, but for some people it has to be in RG … for some occasions it looks even cooler in RG … for some …

 

Excursion :

Back in the 80´s a friend of our family visited us and on his wrist was simple YG Royal Oak. I was (only) a teenager, but to me it was an impressive watch. Still have the picture on my mind, even when his older daughter was very beautiful. Only have a picture of the watch left J. By the way he was a CEO, from one of the biggest banks in the world. So on some people’s wrist … it works very well.

The new movement was developed bei Giulio Papi for a 39mm case, but at the end the decision was to put it in a 41mm case. Just to make the look more balanced. It had to be perfect, in any detail, for Octavio Garcia (the watch designer).

The (current) designer together with two of his creations:

But back to my question : Who is the (current) king in that royal family?

 

Royalty & Simplicity works very well together, for me. Therefore the king must be something simple, but sophisticated.

In the case of the Royal Oak it has to be in steel and should be slim.

The first point is easy to reach (today), but the second one is trickier.

One good choice could be the (original) 5402 and that case was 38.6mm/7.1mm.

Two matching points: steel & slim.

Perfect or at least good ones are very hard to find these days and from what I heard AP is out of stock for original bracelets - if one is needed. It still is one of the most beautiful/perfect watches, but even kings have to do “daily business” and therefore the 5402 can´t be the king anymore – from my point of view.

The Jubilee is very beautiful – especially with a salmon dial, but for me it can´t be the king for several reasons, e.g. AP logo at 12. Would not mind to get one for summer …

The (former) 15202 is a very strong competitor, but the AP logo is at 12 and I am not a big fan of the dates frame.

The case is 39.0mm/8.0mm. Still slim, but nonetheless  + 0.9mm compared to the 5402.

 

Then they introduced the 15300 with an in-house (developed & produced) movement.

It came with a new (thicker) bracelet solution, a seconds hand and the case was 39.0mm/9.4mm (+ 2.3mm).

Put my own money on that watch and thought I bought a keeper. To make it short, it is not with me anymore and the “thickness” was one of the reasons.

It is a very good watch, but for sure not the king.

The new 15400 is a (personal and for sure subjective) no go for me and not only because of the thickness. To me the design is just not balanced.

 

Last but not least there is the new 15202. The AP logo is above 6. The original movement is inside. There is no dates frame and the date fits perfect with the dial. The whole dial looks cleaner than the former 15202 and the dark blue is very nice.

The case is 39.0mm/8.1mm. It is 1mm thicker than the 5402 and 0.1mm thicker than the (former) 15202. The bracelet is closer to the one from the 15300. The rotor looks less sophisticated. Nonetheless it looks very beautiful.

So, who is my king?

Is thickness the key?

5402

15202 (old)

Not to speak about the new thicker bracelet, which is closer to the one from the 15300 ...

For a final judgment, I have to try the new 15202 on my wrist. If the bracelet feels good on my wrist, it could be my king with that wonderful dark blue dial ...

Quite a a lot people waitet for the introduction of the 40´s Anniversary version, impatiently. Will it fit to their (personal) product specifications?
Good news for everybody. Nobody has to wait until the 50´s Anniversary to get a drop dead gorgeous watch, with all that variations available

Royalty & Simplicity is probably one of the most difficult things to create.

Maybe that is one of the reasons why they are so adorable

 

Oliver

This message has been edited by small-luxury-world on 2012-03-04 12:22:46

And a terrific post here.  Well done.

To the content, I voted for the new 15202, but can one really pick against the 5402?  For me the word is "current", and of course of the selections available to us now it has to be the new 15202.

I have always wanted a jumbo for myself.  The outgoing 15202 dial was just not quite right for me.  I could live with the logo at 12, but the date window trim and other dial markings are excessive to my eyes.

So the revised model is just what I have been looking for.  Perhaps if given the choice side by side with a proper 5402 sample I would choose the older, but I really am not sure.  I think AP must have put in a ton of time finalizing the details of the new model, and I am one who thinks it is just right.  I would prefer a solid caseback though ;-)

Oliver

You are right Oliver,

no much point to hunt a A,B,c series,at least for me,too difficult,requires too much trust in the seller or an incredible knowledge.

I am too looking for a Jumbo,the one...my choice would be the Jubilee,still very faithful(I can t remember the exact thickness though) and a coherent tribute in terms of thickness of the bracelet,plus that salmon dial to die for.

I came across 2 but both not genuine(both solid case back!!!!!),and the real ones seem to have reached quite a steep price.

Well lets see,if I had to choose between the old or new 15202,I wouldn t know what  to choose yet.

Mo