Baselworld 2015 Report: CHOPARD L.U.C. Gents / Men

This is an overview of the new CHOPARD L.U.C Gents/Men watches shown at Baselworld 2015. It highlights some of the purest expressions of Chopard haute horlogerie. Chopard has fulfilled the wishes, requests, nay - demands - that aficionados and collectors have made for years by bringing them all to fruition in 2015.  Chopard prowess in mechanical watchmaking and jewellery arts is well established but fans have been asking for finer details like:

Elegant smaller case diameters,
Improved dial designs,
Slimmer bridges,
Grand feu enamel,
Mechanical ladies' watches,
And more in-house mechanical movements across the Chopard range.

L.U.C 1963 Tourbillon and L.U.C Regulator GMT

This was meant to be a "rest" year between the 'special' CHOPARD anniversaries in 2014 and 2016 but Baselworld 2015 has proven to be richer than expected for novelties. "CHOPARD exceeds Expectations in 2015".

We will go into detail about individual watch models before the production watches hit the retail boutiques later in 2015. For now, we will discuss why it has been a good year for CHOPARD novelties...so far.  There are a few more surprises coming in the next 6 months!

L.U.C Quattro and L.U.C XPS - Blue Dial Theme

L.U.C Tourbillons Gem Set

L.U.C XPS Fairmined

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L.U.C 1963 TOURBILLON

I pre-empt the question: "What was your favourite watch this year?" by starting with the L.U.C 1963 Tourbillon; the purest expression of Chopard haute horlogerie.

1963 was the year when the Scheufele family became the owners of Chopard. A discreet tribute to the family tradition, L.U.C 1963 watches directly evoke the aesthetic of the pocket watches made by the company at that time. These historical roots are also a source of horological inspiration. Last year, Chopard paid tribute to watchmaking excellence with the L.U.C 1963 Chronometer and L.U.C 1963 Chronograph watches.

2014 models:  L.U.C 1963 Chrono: Rose Gold and Stainless Steel PuristS' Editions

We were particularly honoured to have joined the celebration last year with the L.U.C 1963 Chronograph PuristS' Edition watch. The final pieces of that limited edition were spoken for at Baselworld 2015; possibly heading to private collections of moguls and Middle Eastern plenipotents.

L.U.C 1963 Tourbillon

Real enamel dial

The Grand Feu Enamel dial is the 'Killer App' to use terminology quoted in the "faux smartwatch" press releases this year.

Grand watchmaking tradition is aptly demonstrated on the dial of the new L.U.C 1963 Tourbillon with its captivating luminous character, its blinding whiteness and its natural glow. Crafted in accordance with traditional Grand Feu enamelling technique and composed of a plate covered with real enamel and then fired at high temperature (900°C) - using the French term Grand Feu (literally ‘great fire’). The hand-made, artisan-style operation is repeated several times and with some attrition rate from cracking damage.

The dial is then hand-polished to erase the micro-bubbles from the surface. Finally, a last 'Geneva-technique' firing of a transparent enamel coating called 'fondant' or glazing gives a unique brilliance. Until now, Chopard aficionados have been requesting this final technique to be revived in Chopard watches. Now, it is reality and Chopard is well placed for future elevation of its haute horlogerie Collections...

L.U.C 1963 Tourbillon joins the Collection as the very best in Chopard haute horlogerie. Its finely crafted dial is in Grand Feu enamel. Its tourbillon movement is COSC certified and boasts a nine-day power reserve.

There is no certificate necessary for its classic and discreet elegance but they combine to make the L.U.C 1963 Tourbillon a truly comprehensive work of horological art.

The rose gold case with its rounded, satin-brushed sides and its slender bezel will delight watchmaking connoisseurs, while the sleekly sophisticated lugs further slim down the watch while ensuring exceptional comfort on the wrist.

A new calibre made-to-measure for the enamel dial

L.U.C Calibre 02.19-L1 is an evolved and 0.6 mm slimmer version of the 02.01-L movement. This is true haute horlogerie. instead of "one size fits all", Chopard made more room for the enamel dial that is naturally slightly thicker than standard metal dials. This exceptional calibre powers a tourbillon at 6 o’clock for a nine-day power reserve. The tourbillon bridge features only two attachment points compared with the usual four.

Delicately open worked and pared down to essentials, it is also meticulously chamfered and satin-brushed for 'haute de gamme' movement finishing.

The power-reserve display at 12 o’clock is purposely restricted to an 8-day graduated scale for best chronometry. The L.U.C Calibre 02.19-L1 is endowed with the patented Quattro® technology, supplying the movement with 216 hours of operating autonomy. Its four barrels deliver their energy to the movement in a smooth and regular manner, thereby contributing to the chronometric precision of this exceptional timepiece.

This IS now THE L.U.C tourbillon watch of choice for the lucky 100 aficionados who can get hold of one of this limited edition. We now have the elegant L.U.C 1963 case in 40 mm diameter, slimmer tourbillon bridge, improved aesthetic and grand feu enamel dial all in one.

Quot Erat Demonstratum.

L.U.C REGULATOR

Chopard reinterpreted a classic from its L.U.C Haute Horlogerie collection with the new L.U.C Regulator model. The improved dial design allows current location's hour display at crown side to be read discretely from under a shirt sleeve. I don't recall any other contemporary regulator watch that has this useful display.

As a precision timekeeper, the six indications on the L.U.C Regulator are separated to ensure optimal readability. The COSC certification as well as the Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark awarded to this new L.U.C watch testify to its high rating precision and fine craftsmanship.

In addition, the L.U.C Regulator features subtle symmetrical effects representing a noteworthy aesthetic accomplishment. The GMT hour-display balances the dial by its diametric position from the current location hour-display. The power reserve dial is diametrically opposite the sub-seconds indicator.

The dial design and execution is more sophisticated in this new version. The applique numerals vary in appearance from 'black' to highly polished depending on the ambient light and viewpoint, as illustrated below in two photographs.

From an off-centre viewpoint, the light and shadows reveal the 3-D character of the numerals.

Each sub-dial and display arc is recessed and highlighted by the silver outlines framing them.

The new L.U.C case is more elegant to complement the horological prestige of the L.U.C  regulator movement 98.02-L.
At 9.78 mm thick and 43 mm in diameter, the L.U.C Regulator is perfectly proportioned.

This is one of the most legible regulator watches I know.

L.U.C QUATTRO

Chopard presented two new L.U.C Quattro models with a refined new aesthetic and improved dial design directive.

For the first time, a platinum Quattro was introduced with a blue-grey dial and a new rose gold case is paired with a brown dial.

Earlier this year, Chopard aficionados had discussed if coloured dials were acceptable in the gentleman's sartorial armamentarium.  The answer is clearly - YES. 

The new sunburst satin-brushed dials are bound to delight devotees of Haute Horlogerie as well as those with a penchant for distinctive design.

L.U.C Quattro Platinum

L.U.C Quattro Rose Gold

The subtly refined details of the generous 43 mm-diameter case result in a refined air, while the characteristic curves of the L.U.C collection give the lugs a masculine and contemporary allure. The satin-brushed case middle adjacent to the polished bezel and the exhibition caseback, accentuate the shape of the watch by creating subtle contrasts and light effects. These alternating polished and satin-brushed zones mirror the workmanship on the movement; every part is adorned with unique and meticulous finishing.

With the new L.U.C Quattro models, the theme of improved dials and ergonomic design continues in the L.U.C Collections.

L.U.C XPS FAIRMINED

The new L.U.C XPS Fairmined watch indubitably combines watchmaking expertise with an ethical approach.

The case-back, middle case and bezel of the new L.U.C XPS Fairmined are entirely made of Fairmined gold; a certification guaranteeing that the gold has been responsibly mined and the miners have received fair payment and an overall premium.

The L.U.C XPS Fairmined is made in accordance with the Green Carpet Challenge (GCC) ethical benchmarking and continues The Journey to Sustainable Luxury project that began in 2013. The first Fairmined watch was launched in 2014 - L.U.C Tourbillon Fairmined.

The mechanical prowess demonstrated by a self-winding L.U.C Calibre 96.12-L that is just 3.3 mm thick – a technical feat achieved by an ingenious offset micro-rotor made of delicately engraved gold.

Equipped with a double barrel (Twin® technology), the extra flat watch has more than 65-hours of power reserve.

THE DIAL OF BASELWORLD 2015 

The simply described: "subtle sunburst satin-brushed slate-grey galvanic dial" took the Baselworld 2015 show by storm when viewed in-person.

Chopard aficionados and other watch connoisseurs were stunned and intrigued by the dial with the appearance of raw gold nuggets. The buzz created at the show has resulted in a clamp down of trade secrets and we can only wonder at its glory....

CONCLUSION

"CHOPARD exceeds Expectations in 2015" for the Gents L.U.C Collection but also for the Chopard Classic Racing and Ladies Collections described in separate reports. A pleasant surprise indeed for an ostensible "rest year" between the brand anniversaries in 2014 and 2016.

The seemingly innocent improvements in technique and aesthetic, point to some amazing revelations in the next 18 months from the House of CHOPARD.....

Dr M. Teillol-Foo; 2015.