Baselworld/SIHH

The intention of this report is to cover as much as possible of what happened at SIHH, entirely with my own photos and writing. This year’s report covers 19 brands – 15 that exhibit inside SIHH and four independents outside the fair.

 

SIHH 2012 seemed more subdued than last year’s. Collections presented were more compact and focused with lots of easily accessible, commercially-minded pieces. There were few headline complications launched.

 

As always I cover most of the novelties, but not all, due to time and availability constraints. Probably about 90% of what was launched. I do that in 526 photos and 11,072 words for a manageable read.

 

Enjoy!

 

- SJX

This message has been edited by SJX on 2012-01-31 04:01:58 This message has been edited by SJX on 2012-03-05 20:25:18 This message has been edited by MTF on 2013-01-12 08:34:02

Lange had a good year; the collection was smallish but ample. Two new movements were launched, the first being the L082.1 of the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar.

 

 

 

This is an instantaneous perpetual calendar (everything jumps instantaneously) displaying the calendar information on the dial, without any overlapping indications in true Lange 1 style. Initially I didn’t like to the design but have warmed to it; the dial is smartly done – everything is legible and well laid out.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Over on the back the tourbillon is visible, but barely. It is a hacking tourbillon, like that on the Cabaret Tourbillon. But given it can be hardly seen I wonder about the need for it, especially since the perpetual calendar is already impressively sophisticated.

 

 

 

 

Like the Lange 1 Daymatic, this has a central rotor in gold and platinum with relief decoration. The case diameter is 41.9 mm.

 

For now the Lange 1 perpetual will be made in platinum in a limited edition of 100 pieces. Regular production rose gold will be available next year.

 

The other new calibre is in the new Grande Lange 1 which at 40.9 mm is smaller than the old Grande Lange 1. This has an entirely new calibre that is actually slimmer than the Lange 1 movement. Besides the slimness, the most obvious difference in the new movement are the separate cocks for the escape wheel and fourth wheel, quite an unusual feature for a Lange movement.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The new calibre means that the dial proportions are exactly the same as the original Lange 1, no overlapping subdials as on the old Grande Lange 1. However, the case proportions differ from the Lange 1. The new Grande Lange 1 is slimmer at 8.8 mm high and has shorter lugs, giving it a slightly more rounded look. But despite the changed proportions it still looks good. This is available in platinum, rose or yellow gold.

 

 

 

  

Also new is the Lange 1 Time Zone with the addition of luminous dial and hands, cased in white gold.

 

 

 

 

  

Now on to the Saxonia range. The Saxonia Thin, originally only in rose gold, is now available in white gold with silver dial. It looks even more austere in this guise.

 

 

 

The Saxonia Automatic now comes in ladies’ versions as well, in the three colours of gold with mother of pearl dials and diamond bezels.

 

 

 

 

 

And last is the new Lange Datograph Up/Down. This is the much talked about improvement of the iconic Datograph.

 

 

 

The case is now 41 mm with some changes to the movement though it remains largely the same. Though not obvious the date has been enlarged for the new, larger dial so as to keep the same proportions as before.

 

 

 

More apparent is the simplified dial design, with baton indices instead of Romans and a cleaner minute track. And of course now there is a power reserve at six.

 

 

 

 

Importantly the movement now has a 60 hour power reserve, compared to the short 36 hours before. The balance wheel is the in-house adjustable mass balance, and some of the chronograph levers have changed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

But fundamentally it is the same watch. All of the changes are incremental. Perhaps after 13 years more could have been done.

 

While I don’t like the power reserve, the new Datograph is visually so similar to the old version that it’s difficult not to like it. Existing Datograph owners don’t need to own this, but it remains a brilliant option for someone looking for a high-end, traditionally executed chronograph.

This message has been edited by SJX on 2012-01-30 01:51:33

I appreciate this very much!

Stephen

As has been written extensively elsewhere, 2012 is the 40^th anniversary of the Royal Oak. Much of the Royal Oak range was remade. AP presented several very attractive watches were unveiled, but there was no spectacular complication.

 

Before going into the Royal Oak watches, a look at everything else. 2012 also happens to be the year of the dragon. AP is one of the several brands with dragon-themed watches. These are the Jules Audemars Year of the Dragon limited editions, comprising three tourbillons and one perpetual calendar.

 

The tourbillons all have a dragon in relief on the dial. One version in rose gold has the dragon on a gold dial, while the other two in rose and white gold have the gold dragon against enamel dials. These are rather ostentatious looking.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On the other hand the perpetual calendar is much more discreet with its white dial. From the front it looks like any other perpetual calendar. Instead the dragon is on the skeletonised rotor of the cal. 2121.

 

 

 

 

 

Another new Jules Audemars model is the Chronometre AP, first launched in platinum, and now in rose gold with a ruthenium finish movement. This is much more striking looking than the monochromatic platinum. As with the platinum version the calibre is entirely on display and wonderfully finished.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And now to the Royal Oak Offshore. First two – yes, a mere two – new Offshore models. The first is the Royal Oak Offshore Diver in a carbon composite case. It’s hard to go wrong with this combination of design and materials. A cool looking watch, if uninventive.

 

 

 

 

Also new is the Royal Oak Offshore in platinum. This has the chunkier Offshore chronograph case first launched in 2011, but it is regular production. Previous Offshore watches in platinum were all limited editions.

 

 

 

 

Given the new models launched, the Royal Oak had a subtle rather than extravagant anniversary. The flagship complication of the Royal Oak 40^th anniversary line is the Openworked Extra-Thin Royal Oak Tourbillon. It has very elegant proportions – 41 mm in diameter and 8.85 mm high.

 

 

 

 

 

 

This features a new manual wind, tourbillon movement with three day power reserve, the cal. 2924 SQ. The skeletonisation is done in a contemporary manner with clean lines and a ruthenium finish. This is a fine looking watch.

 

 

 

 

But unusually for a Royal Oak, this is entirely in platinum, case and bracelet, which gives it a fairly steep retail price of about US$370,000. Only 40 pieces will be made.

 

Also limited to 40 pieces and similarly cased in platinum is the Openworked Extra-Thin Royal Oak. This is essentially the classic Royal Oak Jumbo with 39 mm case and the slim cal. 2121, except the movement has been skeletonised.

 

 

 

 

Like the skeleton tourbillon the skeletonisation is modern in style, in contrast to the earlier Royal Oak Jumbo skeletons which had ornate engraving.

 

While the finishing is excellent and attractive, the design of the skeleton work from the front is not my cup of tea. The base plate is not quite skeletonised enough in my opinion, resulting in a somewhat cluttered looking dial.

 

 

 

 

In addition to the skeleton limited edition, the Royal Oak Jumbo also makes an appearance in a guise very close to its original design. Available in steel or rose gold with a dark blue dial, the dial of new Jumbo is very close to the 1972 original. The dial has a finer ‘tapisserie’ guilloche than before as well as the AP logo at six, like the original.

 

 

 

 

Also note the date disc is now the same shade as the dial, which is a small but important visual improvement. Another key change is that the bracelet has a double fold clasp, as do all the new Royal Oak models, which should make it more comfortable on smaller wrists.

 

 

 

 

The new Jumbo case is 39 mm like the original, but has a sapphire display back to show the cal. 2121. 

 

The new cal. 2924 tourbillon calibre in the skeleton tourbillon also makes its debut in a regular production Royal Oak tourbillon in steel or rose gold with a dark blue dial.

 

 

 

 

Like the skeleton the case is 41 mm but somehow it seems a bit larger than the skeleton. And the lack of an AP logo on the dial throws it off somewhat.

 

 

 

Also in a 41 mm case is the new Royal Oak Chronograph. Like its predecessor this has the Frederic Piguet 1185 calibre inside, but the case is 2 mm larger. And unlike the previous Royal Oaks the new chronograph (as well as the other new automatics) have faceted hands and indices first seen on the Offshore.

 

 

 

 

 

The chronograph is available in steel or rose gold. The dial options for the steel version are in the usual colours – white, black and blue – while that of the rose gold is black or white only.

 

 

 

 

The ref. 15400 Royal Oak with the automatic 3120 movement has also received a similar facelift. It has a 41 mm case and redesigned dial. Like the chronograph it’s available in steel or rose gold with the same dial options.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Compared to the ref. 15300 which it replaces the 15400 is not only wider but also thicker, and the dial seems to be set deeper into the case. While I am sure this will be well received I still prefer the proportions of the Jumbo.

 

 

 

 

A step down from the 41 mm case is the new midsize Royal Oak. It has a 37 mm case, in either steel or pink gold, with the option of a diamond set bezel. The movement is the 3120. Even though this is a midsize and presumably unisex watch, the proportions of the case and bracelet taper make it seem more like a ladies watch than men’s watch.

 

 

 

 

And last is the ladies’ Royal Oak with a quartz movement that has a date and no seconds hand. It has a 33 mm case in steel or rose gold, all with diamond set bezels. For some reason I missed taking photos of these, but you can imagine what it looks like.

This message has been edited by SJX on 2012-01-30 02:00:54

Thanks for posting all this. 

Last year saw drastic and successful revamp of Baume & Mercier. George Kern of IWC took over, along with several other IWC alumni, and gave B&M a clearer identity – the Hamptons lifestyle, beaches, boating and clapboard houses. More important the products improved, especially in terms of case finishing. The retro-looking Capeland chronographs exemplified this.

 

B&M had a much quieter SIHH 2012, however. The novelties were all variants of existing models.

 

The top of the range Capeland Flyback, first seen last year with a silver dial, now has the option of a black dial and rose gold hands. This is sportier than last year’s and also makes the 44 mm case seem smaller.

 

 

 

 

 

The watch is still quite thick, especially with the domed sapphire crystal. Inside is a La Joux-Perret flyback chronograph movement based on the Valjoux 7750.

 

 

 

Seen last year in earthy tones like copper and brown, the Capeland chronograph is now available in more nautical variants in blue, white and black. The metallic blue in particular is attractive.

 

 

 

 

 

 

And the Capeland chronograph is now available with a practical steel bracelet. It will be practical for those in warmer climates, but the watch looks best on strap. Though the Capeland chronograph is not an especially unique watch, it is a strong contender in the entry level mechanical chronograph segment.

 

 

 

 

For the ladies there is a new Linea with an ETA 2892. Previously this was all quartz. The bracelet is easily interchangeable with various coloured straps. Again this is a good option for an entry level ladies watch.

 

 

 

 

Also new is the Hampton automatic on bracelet, but like the Capeland this is more attractive on a strap.

 

 

 

 

The highly curved sapphire crystal and blued steel hands of the Hampton are a very nice touch.

 

 

 

This message has been edited by SJX on 2012-01-30 02:03:45

As usual Cartier had the largest collection of all, with something for everyone. From the accessible luxury Tank Anglaise to the impressive, haute horlogerie new minute repeater.

 

The Tank Anglaise is the third major iteration of the Cartier Tank after the Tank Francaise and Tank Americaine. It is also the largest, with broad case flanks. It is a natural evolution of the Tank, since most of the current Tank models, like the bestselling Tank Francaise, are getting a bit small and feminine by modern standards.

 

A key element of the new Tank is the crown. It is hidden below a crown protector and unfortunately is a bit too fiddly. It is a sort of a double crown, pull out the thin inner crown with the sapphire cabochon for setting; the outer crown also serves the same function once the inner crown is pulled out.

 

 

 

 

For now the Tank Anglaise is only available in the three colours of gold with matching bracelets. It is too much metal in the large men’s version, especially since it is currently only available with a bracelet, but as a midsize or ladies watch it looks good. I imagine the future strap versions will work better in the larger sizes. And I’m sure steel models will be released eventually too.

 

The large model, using the 1904 MC automatic, is 47 mm by 36.2 mm and 9.82 mm thick.

 

 

 

 

 

The medium model has an ETA automatic calibre and is 39.2 mm by 29.8 mm.

 

 

 

And the smallest model is quartz and 30.2 mm by 22.7 mm.

 

 

 

 

Another new Tank is the classic Louis Cartier XL. Previously the Tank Louis Cartier was only available with quartz movements, now it has an ultra-thin Piaget calibre. The case is 40.4 mm by 33 mm and a mere 5.1 mm high, making this Cartier’s slimmest mechanical watch. This is available in white gold or rose gold, with the option of a diamond bezel.

 

 

 

 

 

The third new model is the limited edition Tank Folle. In the same vein as the Crash, the Tank Folle is in white gold with a diamond set case. Without diamonds this would actually make a nice masculine counterpart to the Crash. The movement is either a Frederic Piguet or JLC manual wind calibre. It’s limited to 200 pieces.

 

 

 

In the Fine Watchmaking collection Cartier presented several new pieces, with the highlights being the minute repeater and the clever annual calendar. I already covered them extensively over on the Cartier forum .

 

But in addition to the Fine Watchmaking models covered there, several other variants set with varying quantities of diamonds were launched as well.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And one new complication model for ladies is the tourbillon with bird motif. Last year saw this movement with a crocodile, which I didn’t like, but this enamel and jewelled bird is eye-catching.

 

 

 

 
An interesting new model that is part of Cartier’s unofficial entry level small complication range is the Rotonde de Cartier large date with second time zone. The case is 42 mm and it has a big date, dual time and day/night display. Based on the JLC developed 8000 MC movement, this was first seen in last year’s Pasha with the same functions. This is available only in rose gold and will be an unnumbered limited edition of 700 pieces.

 

 

 

 

 

Next are the Cartier d’Art watches. These demonstrate various artistic skills like enamelling and mosaic, usually depicting various animals. This year sees a new technique – flattened straw – used for the Rotonde de Cartier with koala motif.

 

It sounds silly but the straw dial is actually tremendous work. About 40 hours are required to make the koala dial, because the straw has to be split, hammered and cut before being assembled into the design. The result is a matte dial with muted colours that only reveals its details up close. The watch is 35 mm in white gold and is limited to 20 pieces.

 

 

 

 

A horse rendered in a mosaic of semi-precious stones like jasper and obsidian is the next in the Cartier d’Art collection. The dial is composed of 400 tiny pieces of stone, all cut and assembled by hand. This is in the Santos Dumont case, in white gold. It’s limited to 40 pieces and another 10 set with diamonds.

 

 

 

 

And then comes my favourite of the Cartier d’Art, the Rotonde de Cartier with tiger motif executed in email grisaille. This is a technique of enamelling that renders the subject in black, white and all the greys in between. The enameller starts with a plain black enamel dial before painting on additional layers for the design.

 

 

 

The tiger depicted is solemn and has gravitas. It is really striking and evocative. 100 of these will be made in white gold.

 

 

 

Much more whimsical is the Tortue with cockatoo in mother of pearl and enamel. The cockatoo’s body is comprised of bits of mother of pearl engraved to resemble feathers, while the beak, eyes and backdrop are enamel. This is a limited edition of 80 in white gold.

 

 

 

 

Also for the ladies is the Rotonde with ladybugs in plique-à-jour paillonne, a technique of enamel like stained glass. Though the enamelling technique is complex and rare, I don’t like the look of the watch. The resulting dial just doesn’t look sophisticated.

 

 

 

 

 

The last ladies watch is the Captive de Cartier with butterfly and flower in champleve enamel. This one is elegant, and I believe it is quartz.

 

 

 

Finally something for the Year of the Dragon (again). This Ronde is a limited edition of 100 pieces with an enamel dragon dial and a Piaget movement. The dial in maroon and black is too dark and consequently unattractive. A dragon motif should be brighter and more cheery.

 

 

 

 

Now for the jewellery watches. As is expected from a jeweller a mind-boggling number of jewellery watches were unveiled.

 

The animal themed watches are all beautiful, especially the delightful panda secret watch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There are also the various standard cases like Ballon Bleu and Bagnoire, covered entirely in diamonds.

 

 

 

 

 

And then we have some of the more artistic jewellery watches. This Bagnoire Folle looks somewhat hypnotic but is appealing in its own way.

 

 

 

Last is the Temps Moderne de Cartier watch. I like the idea of this watch – the dial actually revolves very slowly, giving the impression the gears are turning. But the overall design isn’t quite as graceful as one would expect from Cartier.

 

 

 

 

This message has been edited by SJX on 2012-02-01 20:17:26

Very thorough report SJX, Thanks! Do you know if the Tank Anglaise comes with a solid back or exhibition back?

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As has been the case for some years, Girard-Perregaux had a hushed year. All the novelties, save for the minute repeater, are variants of existing models.

 

New to the Vintage 1945 line is the Large Date Moon Phase. The case is 36.10 mm by 35.25 mm and available in pink gold or steel. It features GP’s patented big date mechanism with a sapphire disc making the date seamless.

 

 

 

 

 

Also new is the two-register Vintage 1945 chronograph in steel, previously available only in gold. This has GP’s modular chronograph calibre.

 

 

 

Three years ago saw the launch of the Vintage 1966 annual calendar, this year it is presented in rose gold with a grey dial. All indications can be conveniently adjusted forwards and backwards via the crown; there are no pushers on the case.

 

 

 

 
The Vintage 1966 line sees the addition of a smaller diameter 36 mm automatic.

 

 

 

And also new is a diamonds pave version.

 

 

 

In another facelift, the 1966 chronograph gets a date window at six and Arabic numerals for the hours.

 

 

 

 

The last new model in the 1966 line is the Lady Moon Phase. The case is 36 mm in pink or white gold, with diamond bezels and mother of pearl dials. This is a simple, attractive ladies watch. GP does ladies watches rather well, the Cat’s Eye being a well known example, and this is no exception.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Another well known GP line is the ww.tc of world timers. A model in steel with a new dial joins the extensive collection.

 

 

 

Several years ago GP unveiled the titanium case Laureato tourbillon with sapphire bridges. This year instead of sapphire, the bridges are spinel, hence the bluish tint. Spinel is a crystal and in this case I believe it’s grown artificially then machined into the bridges, just like sapphire.

 

 

 

 

 

 

For some reason, be it symmetry or layout, the three bridges GP tourbillons are beautiful, be they in gold, sapphire or spinel. Only 10 pieces will be made.

 

Now for the highlight of the collection and something I didn’t expect, the Vintage 1966 Minute Repeater. The case is rose gold, 42 mm, with a white enamel dial featuring applied gold numerals. On the front it is all very simple but elegant.

 

 

 

 

 

Turn it over and the movement is revealed. Developed by La Fabrique du Temps, the movement specialist behind Laurent Ferrier, the calibre is a mix of vintage and modern design cues, but they blend together harmoniously. Interestingly the escape wheel is silicon, hence its strong blue colour.

 

 

 

It has an openworked design, revealing much of the gear train. And the balance cock is in the arrow shape reminiscent of the Golden Bridges tourbillons. Finishing is superb with wonderful details, like the gold chatons for the jewels.

 

 

 

 

 

 

And how does it sound? Very good, even though it was a prototype.

 

It is worth noting 2012 is the last year GP and its sister company Jean Richard will exhibit at SIHH, after more than a decade there. From 2013 both will show at Baselworld, as part of the PPR stable of brands. The Sowind Group, the parent of GP and JR, also got a new CEO in late 2011, Michele Sofisti, former president of Omega. That will be a new beginning for an illustrious brand that could do with some rejuvenation.

This message has been edited by SJX on 2012-01-30 02:20:43

Greubel Forsey unveiled three new models this year. The first, the GMT, is a new calibre, while the other two are variants of existing models.

 

The GMT is a multi time zone watch paired with the 25° Inclined Tourbillon 24 Seconds. This is not the existing tourbillon calibre with a second time zone, rather it is a new calibre utilising the Tourbillon 24 Secondes as the regulator.

 

Though it looks complex it is fairly easily deciphered.  (The GMT pictured here is a prototype and will vary from the final production piece slightly, the cities disc will be more legible for example.)

 

 

 

 

 

The globe at eight o’clock functions as a day-night indicator for any point on earth, depending on the globe’s position relative to the 24 hour ring around it. Half the 24 hour ring indicates darkness and the other half daytime. Made from titanium the globe shows the earth from the North Pole and is pivoted at the South Pole on the base.

 

 

 

At ten o’clock the second time zone is displayed, and adjusted with the pusher at the same position on the case.

 

 

 

The pusher adjusts the second time zone in sync with the cities disc on the back, which is in turn synchronised with the globe on the front. In order to ensure the globe is in the right position, the cities on the disc have to be aligned with the correct time on the outer hour index (or the inner index for summer time).

 

 

 

 

 

While this is an innovative and useful take on the travel watch, it is less compelling than everything else Greubel Forsey has done, because it is a world time added to an existing tourbillon. But it is attractive, with the sort of top class finishing expected from Greubel Forsey.

 

The second novelty is the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Contemporain. This is a variant of the Tourbillon 24 Secondes, housed in a platinum case with contemporary styling. It is a limited edition of 33 pieces.

 

 

 

 

 

The stunning blue dial is blued titanium with two levels, giving the watch a subtle three dimensional appearance that is not immediately apparent due to the blue base. Clear sapphire is used for the hour index and tourbillon bridge.

 

 

 

Notice the height of the applied “12” numeral (and note only the “12” will be filled with Luminova in the final production piece, not the baton indices).

 

 

 

One of the most beautiful details is the massive looking bridge that holds up the hands.

 

 

 

Turn it over and the calibre is revealed. It is reminiscent of vintage pocket watches like 19^th century Breguet due to the large wheels, bridge shape as well as blue base plate.

 

 

 

 

Last is the Quadruple Tourbillon Secret, so named because the four tourbillons – a pair of double tourbillons – are all hidden from view. They are visible only from the back or a peek from the sapphire window on the side of the case. Needless to say the view from the back is spectacular, showing off large swathes of the frosted finish that Greubel Forsey excels at.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This watch, along with the Contemporain, demonstrates the versatility of Greubel Forsey’s designs. They are all clearly from the same bloodline, yet markedly different.

 

 

 

 

 

The Quadruple Tourbillon Secret is the second “Secret” watch, the first being the Double Tourbillon 30°. Eight each will be made in rose gold and platinum.

This message has been edited by SJX on 2012-01-31 20:41:49

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Each year IWC focuses on a particular collection and this year it was the year of the pilot’s watches. The booth was staged to look like an aircraft carrier, complete with a flight simulator. Over dozen new pilot’s watch models were launched in a complete revamp of the range. All of them stick to the tried and tested ‘flieger’ watch formula and will certainly see commercial success.

 

The basic Pilot’s Watch range has been enlarged in terms of case size, except for the Big Pilot which remains 46 mm. Movements remain the same as before. The entry level Mark XVII is now 41 mm. Even though the date position gives away the fact that movement is very small, the watch looks proportional.

 

 

 

 

 

The Pilot’s Watch Chronograph is now 43 mm while the Doppelchronograph is 46 mm.

 

 

 

 

 

 

While the new chronograph looks fine, the upsized Doppelchronograph looks a bit ill-proportioned for some reason. The dial looks identically sized but the case is larger, perhaps that’s it. I prefer earlier dial iterations of the chronograph and Doppel though.

 

And the range also sees the addition of an entirely new model, the Pilot’s Watch Worldtimer. Though the case is 45 mm, it doesn’t quite seem so large.

 

 

 

This is a straightforward and easy to use travel watch. The time can be set forwards or backwards in one hour increments, in sync with the cities disc, enabling the reading of local time as well as the time in other time zones. Summer time can be read via the dot linked by a link to the city name.

 

 

 

Similarly the Spitfire range has been facelifted. I never warmed to the Spitfire line before but I like the look of the new model. The range has also been reduced in size. It now only has two models, the Spitfire Chronograph and the new Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month. Also worth noting is that the Spitfire watches are the only IWC pilot’s watches that do not have an anti-magnetic soft-iron cage around the movement.

 

Unlike its predecessor the Spitfire chronograph now uses the IWC cal. 89365 automatic chronograph movement with 68 hour power reserve. This is similar to the movement in the Da Vinci chronograph except it lacks an hour counter.

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is available in rose gold or steel, both with grey dials. Usually grey, or ardoise as IWC calls it, is only available for white gold cases. The case diameter is 43 mm.

 

 

 

 

 

And the top of the line model for the whole Pilot’s Watch range is the Spitfire Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month.

 

 

 

This is a well executed and eminently legible watch. I am unsure about the need to label the month and date windows, though the labels do to fill up and balance the dial.

 

 

 

 

 

Available only in rose gold, this uses the chronograph and digital perpetual calendar movement first used in the Da Vinci. The rotor on the back has a Spitfire aircraft.

 

 

 

Now on to the Top Gun watches. As before the cases are all in matte black ceramic, but IWC has wisely got rid of the Top Gun logo on the case side. The entry level model is the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun with a 46 mm ceramic case and the IWC cal. 89365 chronograph movement. The dial design doesn’t sit well with me, the sub-dials appear too small.

 

 

 

 

And then there are two watches that have been hoped for and expected for some time. The Big Pilot is finally available in ceramic, but the case is 48 mm, two millimetres larger than the steel Big Pilot. That increase in size is barely apparent, perhaps due to the case colour and proportions of the dial.

 

 

 

 

 

Also in a 48 mm ceramic case (maybe this is why the ceramic Big Pilot is 48 mm) is the Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar. Like the Big Pilot Top Gun, this is a good looking, if unimaginative, watch.

 

 

 

 

 

The Top Gun line has also been extended to include the Top Gun Miramar. Named after the former location of the Top Gun School in California, the Miramar watches have a military-ish colour scheme – glossy charcoal ceramic case, grey-brown dial with ivory Luminova and green canvas strap. The particular combination of colours made them really hard to capture accurately, hence the poor photos (apologies).

 

 

 

 

 

Two models are available, the 48 mm Big Pilot with the cal. 5000 (below) and 46 mm chronograph with the cal. 89365 (above).

 

 

 

 

The Ingenieur Vintage is available with a brown dial that isn’t very pleasing.

 

 

 

This message has been edited by SJX on 2012-02-13 19:03:11

JLC had a fair number of novelties spread across several collections. Unlike most other SIHH brands, it had a new headline complication in the form of the Duomètre à Sphérotourbillon. This has two key features – a multi-axis tourbillon and an instantaneous reset seconds hand.

 

 

 

The tourbillon here turns on two axes – the cage every 30 seconds turns on one axis that is co-axial with the balance and on a second axis below the cage inclined at 20 degrees. Like the Gyrotourbillon 2, the Spherotourbillon has a cylindrical hairspring as well.

 

 

 

 

 

This gives it a motion like a spinning top, a curious yet pleasing sight. As with any multi-axis tourbillon, the rationale behind this is better timekeeping in any position.

 

 

 

The other notable function of the Spherotourbillon is the seconds reset: the pusher at two o’clock sends the seconds hand back to 12 which then instantaneously restarts. This is meant to be used after adjusting the time to get a time setting accurate to the nearest second, more or less.

 

However, this is not a hack seconds like the Lange Cabaret tourbillon. Neither the tourbillon nor the seconds hand actually stop. Rather it’s an instantaneous reset seconds, like a flyback chronograph. As I understand it, the whole movement continues running when the second hand resets.

 

 

 

 

JLC explains the ‘dual wing’ concept of the Duometre – two barrels and gear trains – allows for the seconds reset function since the tourbillon regulator has its own gear train. But since this is a seconds reset, I wonder if twin gear trains are needed to achieve this. The same chronometric performance should be achievable with a single gear train, just like a chronograph with a vertical clutch.

 

Nevertheless I like the presentation of the Spherotourbillon. Like I said, the tourbillon is a joy to watch.

 

In addition to the time, the Spherotourbillon displays a second time zone at 12, beside the power reserve for the tourbillon. At five o’clock sits the power reserve indicator for the time.

 

 

 

The case is 42 mm, and available in rose gold or a limited edition of 75 in platinum. I prefer the warmth of the rose gold version, however. When I first saw the platinum in 2011 I found it lacking in charm.

 

The other new Duometre watch is the Quantieme Lunaire in a smaller, 40.5 mm rose gold case. In this watch one gear train is for the time and the other for the calendar and lightning seconds.

 

 

 

Though the proportions are obviously different from the larger version – same dial but thinner bezel and small lugs – this still looks good, compact and elegant. It has attractive grained silver dial and unlike its larger cousin there are no apertures on the dial showing the movement.

 

Three new models were added to the Master line – Master Control, Master Ultra Thin Réserve de Marche and Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon.

 

 

The tourbillon has a 40 mm rose gold case that stands 11.3 mm high. Inside is the cal. 982 tourbillon with automatic winding, a variant of the movement in the Master Tourbillon.

 

 

 

Presented last year in titanium, the Master Grande Tradition Minute Repeater is now available in rose gold. This is a chunky, 44 mm repeater with JLC’s square profile gong that is soldered to the crystal, which means it chimes loudly.

 

 

 

 

 

 

And the last new round watch covered here is a new AMVOX 5 World Chronograph LMP1 in blue and orange with a ceramic and titanium case. This was actually launched late last year in a limited edition of 250 pieces to commemorate the Aston Martin LMP1 race car.

 

 

 

 

Last year saw the launch of the Grande Reverso 1931, a large and slim Reverso modelled after the 1931 model that has sold well. Several new models in that case were unveiled this year.

 

The first is the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Skeleton. This is a skeleton Reverso in a white gold case with a blue enamel border around the movement on the front. Unusually for a skeleton watch of today, it is skeletonised in the traditional manner, meaning elaborate engraving and decoration, reminiscent of the Reverso Art Deco of several years ago. This is a limited edition of 50 pieces.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Also in the same is the Grande Reverso 1931 in white gold with a subtle silver grained dial. This watch is simple but striking, like the steel 1931 of last year was.

 

 

 

 

Last is the Grande Reverso Blue Enamel. This is in a slightly larger and thicker case than the 1931, measuring 48.5 mm by 30 mm. This 50 piece limited edition has a dial that is rich, translucent blue enamel over guilloche, with applied white gold numbers.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Also new is the rose gold Grande Reverso Calendar that displays day, date, month and moon. Regrettably I somehow missed taking photos of this.

This message has been edited by SJX on 2012-01-30 02:55:42

Friends kindly look at the JlC minute repeater, it has the makings of a watch from the Saxony region of Germany, Glashutte.
The 3/4 plate, the jewels on removable screws, the removable balance bridge on screws and the sun burst guilloche on the plate.
We know that Mr.Jerome Lambert is an executive in both companies A Lange & Sohne and Jaeger le Coultre within the same group but mixing identities and styles is a BIG NO NO! it undermines both the brands which are very highly regarded. Any comments? This message has been edited by salarjung on 2012-03-16 11:11:23

Montblanc is a latecomer to high-end watchmaking but it has been making good progress with the Collection Villeret 1858 and the more affordable Rieussec and TimeWalker lines.

 

Three new models joined the Villeret collection, the first being the Villeret Tachydate. This is the first Villeret watch with a date, and it has a tachymetric scale on the dial, hence the name.

 

 

 

The date sits in a subdial at six o’clock. Though not unattractive, the design is a bit curious, the chronograph subdials are small and emphasis is on the larger date subdial.

 

 

 

 

Unsurprisingly the movement is entirely traditional and beautifully decorated.

 

 

 

This is a limited edition of 52 pieces each in rose gold and white gold. The dial is lacquered gold for the rose gold version and silvered for the white gold.

 

Next is the Régulateur Nautique Timepiece Set. This is a set comprising a wristwatch and a standing clock intended for mounting on a boat, nay, a yacht.

 

 

 
 

The watch is a regulateur with monopusher chronograph, dual time zone and power reserve. This watch was unveiled a few SIHH fairs ago, but in this iteration it has a semi-open dial showing the elegant mechanics of the power reserve. Notice the blued steel arrowhead logo of Minerva.

 

 

 

It is a power reserve display with a bit extra as it has two hands, which normally sit above one another when the mainspring is in a healthy state of wind. But once it unwinds to a certain level, a red hand swings out from underneath the main power reserve hand and travels into the red zone.

 

 

 

This wristwatch can be placed into holder built into the frame of an Erwin Sattler standing clock – almost a metre high – made of granite, brass and carbon fibre that weighs a whopping 120 kg. Both the clock and the holder for the watch are gimballed, so they will always be in a horizontal position regardless of the movement of the deck, like a marine chronometer.

 

The clock face is similar to the watch dial, with a regulator display and power reserve indicator. Additionally it has a chain and fusee, and a 360 hour power reserve.

 

16 sets will be made, with eight each paired with rose gold and white gold wristwatches.

 

Third is the creative TimeWriter II Chronographe Bi-Fréquence 1,000. This is the second TimeWriter project, the first being the Metamorphosis chronograph with the transforming dial (that incidentally was finally shown working perfectly this year). TimeWriter is a biennial creative watchmaking project, conceived by an independent watchmaker and sponsored by Montblanc.

 

 

 

The Spanish watchmaker behind the Bi-Frequence is named on the dial: Bartomeu Gomila. As with other chronographs like this, the Bi-Frequence has two barrels, one for the time and another for the chronograph. It also has two balance wheels for the same purpose.

 

 

 

Interestingly the balance wheels have very long staffs so that the balance and escape wheels are visible on the front, while the hairspring is on the back. At seven o’clock is the timekeeping balance wheel running at a mere 18,000 bph, while at ten o’clock the chronograph balance wheel runs at a frenzied 360,000 bph when activated.

 

That high beat balance means the central chronograph hand races around the dial once a second, measuring 1/100^th of a second. At six is the co-axial 60 seconds and 15 minutes counter. But the chronograph has a power reserve of 45 minutes only, displayed at three o’clock.

 

What makes this different from other such chronographs is the 1/1000^th of a second display at 12 o’clock. This remains static at “N” while the chronograph is movement, but jumps to the appropriate thousandth of a second when the chronograph is stopped. In the photos it shows 7/1000^th of a second.

 

 

 

The mechanism behind this 1/1000^th of a second display is quite novel and patent pending, so a clear and complete explanation cannot be provided yet according to Mr Gomila. But in principle it works by using a wheel linked to the 360,000 bph balance that changes the gear ratio, enabling the 1/100^th of a second of the chronograph seconds to be divided into 1/1000th of a second.

 

 

 

Mr Gomila explains that this is superior to the method of using an even higher frequency balance wheel (as favoured by TAG Heuer) as a lower beat balance has less wear and tear, a longer power reserve and more consistent amplitude.

 

And now for much lighter fare.  The distinctive Rieussec chronograph is now available with dual time zone, indicated by a disc helpfully labelled “Home Time”. This is linked to a day/night indicator at nine o’clock.

 

 

 

 

And the centre of the dial has been opened up as well. The Rieussec looks best with a simpler dial, the early versions with Geneva striping on the dial were unattractive, and though this isn’t that simple, it passes muster.

 

 

 

Also new is the Rieussec with diamond set bezel.

 

 

 

 

Though the Rieussec is the best known of the Montblanc chronographs thanks to its design, I prefer the look of the TimeWalker, especially the case. Two models were added to the line. The first, and more interesting, is the TimeWalker TwinFly Chronograph GreyTech with the in-house LL100 movement.

 

 

 

 

This watch epitomises “shades of grey”. Note the detail of the titanium case, which has brushed lugs and middle, and a sandblasted bezel, which provides wonderful yet subtle contrast.

 

 

 

 

And the dial has an appealing modern styling with geometric shapes. There’s quite a lot going on there but it’s still easy to read. The chronograph has co-axial seconds and minute hands in the centre, hence the name TwinFly, and a second time zone at 12 o’clock. This is a limited edition of 888 pieces.

 

 

 

 

The other new model is the TimeWalker ChronoVoyager UTC. It’s a dual time chronograph with a Valjoux 7750 movement and is necessarily priced much lower than the TwinFly. But it still looks good, especially with the grey dial and rose gold hands. The case is 43 mm in steel with a sandblasted titanium bezel.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And then for something really simple, the Star Classique Automatic. This is a 39 mm, ETA 2892 automatic. It’s available in gold, gold-steel and steel. Not much to be said about this.

 

 

 

 

Last is a charming ladies watch, the Grace Kelly. This has a subtle oval shape and elegant lugs, with diamonds set on the inner flange of the dial. It actually looks very, very good. Surprisingly, this is one of the best looking ladies watches of the fair.

 

 

 

 

 

This message has been edited by SJX on 2012-01-30 03:04:50

Panerai had a significant number of new Radiomir watches this year. Several of the novelties use the large, manual wind P.3000 movement launched last year.

 

Starting with the Radiomir California 3 Days PAM424. This has a 47 mm case and the P.3000. Unfortunately the dial has both a date at three and a logo at six, which are at odds with the vintage look. This is a rare aesthetic misstep for Panerai.

 

 

 

With the same case and movement sans date is the Radiomir SLC PAM425. This has the oddball bar and dot dial, inspired by a prototype from the 1930s, as well as the mini-submarine logo at six (the prototype pictured is lacks this). I never warmed up to the bar and dot dial.

 

 

 

Next is a pair of special editions of 500 pieces each, which also have 47 mm case and P.3000. The first is one of my favourites from the line-up, the Radiomir California 3 Days PAM448. This is what Panerai does best, careful remakes of vintage watches.

 

 

 

The other is the Radiomir SLC PAM449. The bar and dot dial is not my cup of tea but the overall look of this one is actually quite appealing.

 

 

 

 

Also a special edition, but of only 100 pieces each, is the Radiomir 1940 in steel and red gold (which uses the reddish 5N rose gold alloy). The first 50 of each will be paired and sold as a set.

 

 

 

This pair is modelled on Radiomir watches made in the 1940s with integrated lugs, rather than the wire lugs that characterise the Radiomir. These are 47 mm with domed Plexiglas crystals, for an appropriately vintage look.

 

 

 

 

The movements used for both versions is a Minerva supplied pocket watch calibre that is 16 ¾ ’’’ wide. Notably the movement decoration is better than the average Panerai, though not quite as good as the average Villeret 1858.

 

 

 

 

The last new Radiomir is the Radiomir GMT 8 Days Oro Rosso, in the same 5N red gold alloy as the Radiomir 1940. A dark brown dial matches the case colour well but this is certainly one of the least military styled Panerai watches.

 

 

 

This is 45 mm with the P.2002 movement. But unlike previous versions of the P.2002, the calibre here has open worked bridges and barrel, exposing the gear train and mainspring. The result is an attractive movement that reminds me of the bridge for the Lange Zeitwerk constant force mechanism.

 

 

 

Then on to the Luminor line, which sees three new ceramic models joining the range. One is the Tuttonero, which is entirely in black ceramic, case and bracelet. To match the case and bracelet the movement has a black coating.

 

 

 

 

While the ceramic bracelet has a good tactile feel, the overall look is unappealing. There is just an overwhelming quantity of black ceramic.

 

 

 

Similar to the Tuttonero is the Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Automatic. This is on a strap instead of bracelet, and the P.9001 movement is behind grey tinted sapphire, rather than black coated.

 

 

 

 

The third ceramic model is the Luminor 1950 Tourbillon GMT. This has a 48 mm ceramic case with the P.2005 tourbillon calibre featuring blackened bridges.

 

 

 

Panerai’s tourbillon is unusual for the axis of the tourbillon cage is perpendicular to the axis of the balance wheel, making it quite visually compelling.

 

 

 

 

One notable detail is the tourbillon indicator on the seconds subdial with a series of dots that turns at twice the speed of the seconds hand.

 

 

 

And the final two models are in the 47 mm case first seen on the PAM372 of last year. The first, the PAM422, has the addition of a seconds hand and power reserve on the back. This watch hews to the classic Panerai formula and looks good.

 

 

 

 

The other is the PAM423, which puts the power reserve indicator on the dial instead. That doesn’t work so well for the modern looking power reserve looks out of place on the vintage-ish dial.

 

 

 

 

 

 

This message has been edited by SJX on 2012-01-30 03:12:13

Ralph Lauren Watch & Jewellery Co. is an interesting entity. The brand is most commonly associated with clothing that isn’t that expensive but its watches are expensive. So the brand perception doesn’t quite equal its price. Yet the watches are actually quite good, with respectable movements and quality components. For the most part RL watches are on par with the companies that supply them movements.

 

Quality aside, what struck me about Ralph Lauren watches is that they are well designed. Even if the look is derivative – and many of them are – they do look good. The proportions, shapes and styling are good. I don’t like some of the designs but I still wouldn’t call them ugly. Whoever designed them has a good eye.

 

I am told Ralph Lauren himself is deeply involved with the design of the watch collection. If true the designs reflect the fact that he is a good designer. And if Mr Lauren isn’t that involved, RL has a good design team somewhere. The fact is that an ugly watch from a credible watchmaker is more respected than a credible watch from a clothing brand.

 

The 2012 novelties are all extensions to existing lines, rather than entirely new models. The first is the Slim Classique 867 in a square, 32 mm case. This is named after the brand’s flagship store at 867 Madison Avenue in Manhattan.

 

 

 

 

 

 

It is a tasteful Art Deco watch with the ultra-thin Piaget 430P movement. Cases are rose or white gold, with the option of diamonds. Note the black resin bezel border on the white gold and diamond version – a minor but striking detail.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The equestrian Stirrup watch is now available as a large size chronograph with a white strap. Inside is the automatic JLC cal. 750.

 

 

 

And the medium and small Stirrup watches now have the option of a black dial. The medium has a Piaget automatic movement while the small size has a Cartier quartz calibre.

 

 

 

 

 

The third Ralph Lauren collection is the Sporting. My favourite watch of all the brand’s offerings is the Automotive watch, which has a burl wood dial inspired by the dash of Bugatti 57SC Atlantic owned by Ralph Lauren. This has a 44.8 mm case and the IWC FA Jones movement. I think it looks outstanding.

 

 

 

 

Previously only available with a leather strap, it is now available on a steel bracelet, which doesn’t look as a good as the strap I might add.

 

 

 

Also automotive inspired is the JLC cal. 750-powered Sporting Chronograph with a black ceramic case and bracelet. The centre link of the bracelet is coated in bright red or yellow rubber, like a racing stripe on a car. That stripe overwhelms the entire watch unfortunately, so all you really see is the vivid stripe.

 

 

 

 

 

The last watch is the Safari chronograph. This is available in a 39 mm or 44.8 mm case that is distinguished by its an unusual aged gunmetal finish paired with an aged canvas strap.

 

 

 

 

Though I don’t like the Roman numeral dial, the execution of this watch – the aged case and strap – is very well done. There’s something about this particular combination that works.

 

 

 

 

This message has been edited by SJX on 2012-01-30 03:18:25 This message has been edited by SJX on 2012-01-31 04:02:40

Richard Mille had a fairly small collection this year. At the very top of the range is the RM056 rattrapante chronograph with tourbillon – cased entirely in sapphire.

 

 

The RM056 uses the new RMCC1 movement, which is a significantly improved version of the calibre in the RM008, the RM flagship complication for some time. Amongst other changes the new calibre has skeletonised titanium baseplate which contributed to the 20% drop in weight of the movement. And the movement also have a variable inertia balance wheel.

 

 

 

 

This limited edition of five pieces, which apparently retails for CHF1.5 million, is impressive in that sapphire is hard and machining the complex shape of the RM case must have been difficult. Even though it is technically impressive it is visually unimpressive for it really looks like a clear plastic watch. But I know there are five wealthy individuals who think this is ultra cool because it is novel and also expensive.

 

That same RMCC1 is also found in the new RM050 Competition Chronograph Felipe Massa which is housed in a carbon nanotube composite case. The case is lightweight and a flat black, the classic RM formula of a dark coloured and ultra-light case.

 

 

 

 

The black with its simple lines actually draw one into the movement, which is visible both front and back.

 

 

 

 

The RM050 is limited to 10 pieces.

 

The next watch is the techno-goth RM052 skull tourbillon. Here the skull is essentially the baseplate of the movement. In between the teeth is the tourbillon, while the barrel is behind the forehead.

 

 

 

 

 

And the titanium case is semi-skeletonised (I don’t know if RM intended that to be a pun). The buyer has the option of customising the skull, adding precious stones for instance. Perhaps Damien Hirst will commission one with a diamond pave skull.

 

 

 

 

Another new tourbillon is the RM057 Jackie Chan, limited to 36 pieces. A dragon encircles the dial while the case is sandblasted rose gold giving it a delicate but attractive look.

 

 

 

RM typically creates handsome timepieces. In the case of the RM053 “Pablo MacDonough” that is not true. Perhaps the design is a result of function – it was made to withstand the rigours of a polo match; Mr MacDonough is a pro polo player.

 

The case of the RM053 is titanium and the cover on the front that resembles something rude is made from titanium carbide, an extremely hard ceramic.

 

Notwithstanding the design, the movement is interesting. It is a compact manual wind calibre mounted at an angle to the case by a shock absorbing bracket.

 

 

 

 

That because the two dials for the time are positioned at an angle, as in a driver’s watch. The left dial has the constant seconds while the right shows the time.

 

 

Also new for 2012 is the RM037, an elongated tonneau watch with the new calibre CRMA1. This movement is atypical because it has no stem. Instead the pusher at four is used to change the crown functions; there is no need to pull out the crown. That is to avoid a wearer accidentally and forcefully ripping out the crown. The pusher at 10 advances the large date.

 

 

 

 

 

This is also a new case style for RM, which I’m not too keen on. It lacks the punch of other RM cases. Measuring 52.20 mm by 34.40 mm, it looks feminine, especially with the narrow strap, though it is large enough for a man.

This message has been edited by SJX on 2012-01-30 03:23:00

No message body

The 50,53, and 56 blow me away...all superb! 

After last year’s revamp of the Roger Dubuis brand engineered by Georges Kern, the brand is proceeding to fill out its model range in four different segments. 2011 was the year of the La Monegasque, intended as a sophisticated dress watch. And so 2012 is the year of the Pulsion, a meaty sports watch with an aggressive design.

 

The Pulsion (who came up with that name?) case is well detailed and finished. Especially unusual the sapphire crystal screwed to the front, which covers the entire dial and bezel. It is engraved on the reverse with minute numerals numerals and those are then filled with Luminova which appears to be floating when viewed from the side.

 

 

 

 

 

The Pulsion chronograph has an open dial revealing the base plate of the chronograph. I find the dial too busy with the tachymetre, seconds markers and applied numerals competing for space on the outer rim.

 

 

 

 

The chronograph has a 44 mm case, available in rose gold, titanium or DLC coated titanium. It uses the in-house RD680 automatic chronograph calibre unveiled last year which features a micro-rotor and column wheel.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Also presented in the same 44 mm Pulsion case is the Flying Tourbillon Skeleton in titanium. This uses RD’s distinctive skeletonised flying tourbillon calibre with the star shaped bridge for the barrel. To match the case, the bridges are ruthenium coated and the screw heads are black PVD coated. Aside from the balance wheel and rubies, the movement is entirely black and grey.

 

 

 

 

 

While I do like the construction of the Pulsion case – the sapphire crystal is inventive and interesting – the overall design is a mish mash of elements seen elsewhere. And it seems to be trying much too hard to look like a sports watch. Not only are the hands shaped like swords, The integrated rubber strap has too many ribs and bands.

 

Last year saw a slew of new La Monegasque watches, this year one watch is added to the collection, the flying tourbillon in rose gold, which was previously only in white gold.

 

 

 

 

 

And finally the Excalibur range, which was mostly comprised of exceedingly large timepieces. It now has a smaller, slimmer line of automatics. These have 42 mm cases and are available in pink gold or steel, with various dials, with the option of a diamond bezel.

 

 

 

 

 

Notable are three versions with dials in lapis, black onyx and mother of pearl. The lapis dial with gold flecks is very attractive. In contrast the onyx dial is subtle, a deep, glossy black that can only be appreciated up close.

 

 

 

 

 

 

This message has been edited by SJX on 2012-01-30 05:36:34

Compared to previous years, Vacheron Constantin had a noticeably smaller collection. The big news was the new Malte collection, the launch of which marks the centenary of the first tonneau watch from VC.

 

Four new models make up the redesigned Malte. At the top is the Malte Tourbillon. The case is pink gold, measuring 38.00 mm by 48.24 mm, and inside is the newly developed cal. 2795.

 

 

 

 

VC movements, especially at the top end, tend to be not only beautifully finished, but also wonderfully designed in bridge shape and layout. This is no exception. I’m not a fan of the new Malte case and shape, but this movement is outstanding.

 

 

 

 

Next is the Malte 100^th Anniversary, a 100 piece limited edition in platinum with the cal. 4400 movement. The case is 36.70 mm by 47.61 mm.

 

 

 

 

Almost identical is the Malte Small Seconds in rose gold. As the name implies this has a seconds hand, but otherwise has the same cal. 4400 as the 100^th Anniversary as well as the same case dimensions.

 

 

 

 

The last is the Malte Lady with a quartz movement that I don’t have photos of.

 

Another example of a beautifully designed movement is the new Patrimony Traditionnelle 14-day Tourbillon. This uses the new cal. 2260 with achieves the two week power reserve thanks to two pairs of stacked barrels (four barrels in total). Naturally the finish is excellent.

 

 

 

 

 

The rose gold case is 42 mm wide and 12.2 mm thick but the watch still feels elegant enough. I do find the off-centre dial a bit peculiar though. Strangely enough VC tends to design classically styled movements with much more modern dials.

 

 

 

Last year saw the launch of the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Chronograph as a boutique exclusive. This year a rose gold version with an smart grey dial will be available at all retailers.

 

 

 

Three models similar to the Dove watch made for Only Watch 2011 make their debut this year. Part of the Métiers d’Art line, each of the them features all four traditional decorative arts of enamelling, engraving, gemsetting and guilloche. This trio is named ‘Les Univers Infinis’, because the dial motifs are MC Escher-inspired tessellations. Each is limited to 20 pieces with a white gold case. And fortunately there is no tessellated dragon watch.

 

The first is the Dove Watch, which sorry to say has exactly the same motif as the Only Watch piece unique, which is not so unique after all. Unlike the striking red of the Only Watch version, this Dove Watch has much more muted tones.

 

 

 

More vibrant is the Fish Watch. The fish tessellation is done in blues and greys, resulting in a soothing and almost hypnotic motif. This is my favourite of the trio.

 

 

 

Third is the Shell Watch. This has a much more complex motif than the other two, with starfish, seashells, sand and waves depicted. The starfish also seem like they are dancing; it is quite a compelling sight.

 

 

This message has been edited by SJX on 2012-01-30 05:45:47

Van Cleef & Arpels unveiled fewer watches at SIHH than before, though there were several more shown but not officially launched.

 

The simplest is the Pierre Arpels. Named after the man who designed it, the Pierre Arpels is a slim dress watch with the Piaget 830P calibre.

 

 

 

Available in white or pink gold, in either a 38 mm or 42 mm case, with the option of a diamond set bezel. All models, however, have a single diamond on the crown.

 

 

 

 

For the ladies VC&A has the Bals de Legende quartet. These feature dials inspired by great formal dances of the 20^th century.

 

Each of these feature solid gold dancing figures on the dial that make a slow rotation over a day. All have 38 mm gold cases with automatic movements.

 

The first is the Bal du Palais d’Hiver of 1903 held in the Winter Palace at St Petersburg in pre-revolutionary Russia.

 

 

 

Next is the Bal du Siècle of Venice held in 1951.

 

 

 

Then it’s the Black and White Ball organised by Truman Capote in New York’s Plaza Hotel in 1951 for the Washington Post’s Katharine Graham.

 

 

 

Last is Le Bal Proust, held in Paris in 1971 to celebrate the 100^th anniversary of the birth of Marcel Proust.

 

 

 

While these are beautiful ladies watches I wonder if the average buyer (who has a good chance of being younger and more Asian) of these watches will appreciate the events that inspired them.

 

And to the highlight of the collection. Jean-Marc Wiedderecht has created something outstanding for VC&A once again in the form of a pair of five minute repeaters with automatons. In VC&A style both have elaborately hand-engraved, solid gold dials decorated with miniature painting.

 

The smaller and more feminine of the pair is the Lady Arpels Poetic Wish that is 39 mm in diameter. When activated by the crown at two of o’clock, the hours begin to chime. Simultaneously the figure of the young lady moves across the dial towards Notre Dame where her beloved is. A mother of pearl cloud moves toward her and when the point where they meet indicates the hours on the horizontal scale on the Eiffel Tower.

 

 

 

 

Then as the minutes chime, a kite that flies up along the River Seine towards Notre Dame to indicate the five minutes. Once the chiming is over, all the automatons move back to their original positions. That time between the start and end of the automaton motion is just enough to make a wish, according to VC&A.

 

 

 

The counterpart to the Lady Arpels is the Midnight Poetic Wish, housed in a 43 mm case. The beau of the lady on the Eiffel Tower, standing on the terrace of Notre Dame Cathedral, moves horizontally to indicate the hours. A shooting star points to the minutes as it flies towards the Eiffel Tower. Like with the Lady Arpels Poetic Wish, all of that happens while the repeater is chiming.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And of course the Eiffel Tower with the young lady is visible in the distance on the dial of the Midnight Poetic Wish. All of that is a tad saccharine but charming all the same.

 

 

 

For those who lack the romantic spirit and can’t wait for the elaborate procession of time telling, the time is also on the back, beneath the exposed gongs of the repeater.

 

 

 

 

The movement, developed from the ground up by Wiedderecht’s Agenhor for VC&A, is unconventional. The gongs are on the back, above the movement, while the hammers are embedded in the centre, sitting perpendicular to the bridges.

 

 

 

 

In addition the calibre has a constant force mechanism that ensures constant amplitude throughout the 60 hours of power reserve.

 

 

 

All of that sits behind a large and seemingly raised sapphire back that I assume improves the sound. That being said, the sound of the prototypes show could do with some improvement but I am optimistic especially I do like this watch.

 

On the larger scale of things this isn’t a vastly complex watch. But it is ingeniously conceived, both in the movement and the story, and beautifully executed. VC&A and Mr Wiedderecht prove once again they are really good at making ladies watches with a twist.

This message has been edited by SJX on 2012-01-30 05:53:19

I will come back to them!

Thanks SJX for the great pics!

Fx

De Bethune always presents interesting and beautiful timepieces. This year is no exception.

 

The DB28 of last year is now available in two new guises. The first is the DB28 Aiguille d’Or (“golden hand”) which has a gold insert on the minute hand. This commemorates the Golden Hand award the DB28 won at last year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve.

 

 

 

In addition this DB28 also has a display back, revealing the movement with the graceful looking power reserve mechanism.

 

 

 

Next is the DB28 Special Edition which has a display back like the Aiguille d’Or. This Special Edition is entirely in entirely in black and silver tones. The case is polished titanium while the lugs are zirconium. David Zanetta noted that using zirconium for the lugs was the only method of achieving this particular colour, without resorting to using a coating which is anathema to his philosophy since it can wear off.

 

 

To keep the monochromatic look, this special edition uses blackened steel and platinum for the spherical moon. And the final point of difference with the regular DB28 is the openworked index around the dial.

 

 

 

Inspired by the piece made for Only Watch 2011, the Dream Watch IV is a wandering hours watch that can be converted from a wristwatch to a pocket to an iPhone case by removing the watch and inserting it into the appropriate frame.

 

 

 

 

The iPhone case and either watch can be used simultaneously, as a medallion can substitute the watch in the iPhone case. And it should be noted that the case can be changed to fit a new smart phone while retaining the watch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The dial of the watch is blued titanium with stars in gold and diamonds.

 

 

 

 

 

A $130,000 iPhone case is silly, and it is impractically heavy, but this is a beautifully crafted; all that polished titanium looks stunning. This is a limited edition of 12 pieces.

 

The last new model revealed (but there’s more coming at Baselworld I can’t show here) is the DB25 Ninth Mayan Underworld.

 

 

 

 

There is an extraordinarily complex explanation behind the Mayan calendar and the significance of 2012 but in brief the name of the watch refers to the ninth underworld which apparently comes this year, as I understand it. The somewhat morbid name belies a gorgeous watch. A watch like this could easily have looked tacky like a tourist souvenir but it is stunning.

 

 

 

 

This limited edition of 12 pieces has a solid gold dial centre featuring various Mayan glyphs. These are intricate and fine, yet clearly hand-engraved. In contrast the index with the hour numerals (numbered in Mayan fashion with a dot for one and a bar for five) is engraved by machine resulting in clean, constant lines. So as not to obscure the dial, the hands are sapphire with blue steel tips.

This message has been edited by SJX on 2012-01-30 05:56:16

Franck Muller launched the Giga Tourbillon in the Cintree Curvex last year. At 20 mm in diameter, the tourbillon is the biggest in a wristwatch. Twin barrels with four mainsprings give it a 10 day power reserve.

 

In the Cintree Curvex case the Giga Tourbillon is unwieldy, and the case case loses all of its sleek form. This year the movement is available in a much wiser round case.

 

 

 

 

It looks much better, more proportionate and balanced. At 49 mm it is enormous but the lugs are very short so it sits decently on the wrist.

 

And notice that the movement forms an amusing looking face.

 

 

 

The finishing on this calibre is good, especially the bevelling of the bridges and steel parts. Where it is lacking is the finish on the wheels. This is the case for other Franck Muller skeleton watches as well.

 

 

 

 

 

New jewelled versions of the Cintree Curvex Giga Tourbillon were also launched, including a version with no dial. Instead the movement, front and back, is set with diamonds. The case is similar set to match the movement.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And the Giga Tourbillon is now available as a full bridge tourbillon, instead of a flying tourbillon. This version looks way off balance with the tiny dial and enormous tourbillon.

 

 

 

This message has been edited by SJX on 2012-01-30 05:59:06

Ludovic Ballouard’s second model is the Half Time. Like his first watch, the Upside Down, the Half Time is an unconventional way to tell the time but has no additional complications. That will be the guiding principle for future watches as well.

 

 

 

 

 

The idea of the Half Time is simple – the dial is comprised of two discs, one in the centre and another encircling the first. The Roman numerals for the hours are painted on both discs, with half the numeral on each disc, top and bottom.

 

 

At the top of the hour each disc jumps in a different direction (the outer disc counter-clockwise and the inner disc in the opposite direction), forming the hour numeral in the window at 12 o’clock.

 

In the photo disc alignment isn't perfect as this is a prototype. 

 

 

 

The minutes are on a retrograde scale at six o’clock. Also engraved at six on this particular piece is the limited edition number for the first 12 ‘subscription’ watches sold on pre-order. The regular production pieces won’t be numbered on the dial naturally.

 

 

 

Like the Upside Down the case is 41 mm and in platinum.

 

And for 2012 Ludovic has updated the Upside Down with black dials and applied numerals, while the movement is ruthenium-coated to match the dial.

 

 

 

 

 

This message has been edited by SJX on 2012-01-30 06:01:16

Urwerk unveiled the rose gold version of the UR-110 Torpedo.

 

Previously only in steel and ZrN coating, the front plate is now in brushed rose gold.

 

 

 

 

 

The sheen of the metal makes the polished bevel around the front plate more obvious, and it forms a striking contrast with the black coated case.

 

 

 

 

 

There will be more shown at Baselworld in March naturally.

This message has been edited by SJX on 2012-01-30 06:02:03

Now I understand why I did not see you at the SIHH.