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OMEGA presents the 1st METAS-certified Master Chronometer, Part 1: The Live Report
Earlier this week OMEGA in cooperation with the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS), has presented the first ever wristwatch certified according to the exacting, transparent Master Chronometer standard developed to simulate daily wearing situations. It certifies both movement as well as the final watch.
This new standard is open to every (Swiss) manufacture through an innovative licensing apporach (METAS-supervised testing laboratories set up by interested brands or external testing facilities) and thus has the potential to become a new industry standard. Thus, the new certification is at the same time a innovative example on how small government agencies and large industry can cooperate for mutual benefit.
This message has been edited by Ornatus-Mundi on 2015-10-27 07:46:57
This new standard is open to every (Swiss) manufacture through an innovative licensing apporach (METAS-supervised testing laboratories set up by interested brands or external testing facilities) and thus has the potential to become a new industry standard. Thus, the new certification is at the same time a innovative example on how small government agencies and large industry can cooperate for mutual benefit.
[VW perhaps could learn from this - Ed.]
The first ever METAS-certified Master Chronometer watch is the new OMEGA Globemaster (presented first at BaselWorld 2015).
On a relatively short notice, I received the invitation to attend the press conference launching a new open standard for watch certification, the METAS-approved Master Chronometer standard, combined with a rare opportunity to take a look behind the normally-sealed curtains of the OMEGA headquarters. This gave me first-hand impressions of the testing & certification lab.
Thus early in the morning I found myself in front of one of the most well-known buildings in Swiss watch-world, the OMEGA headquarters in Biel:
In contrast to many shiny and architecturally-elaborate watch manufacturers, the OMEGA building is a functional and modest (ca. 1960/1970s) factory building. Its most impressive feature is the 4-stories pendulum centering in the staircase (note the number of the lamps at the ceiling ;-)):
I found the short reception quite a refreshing and honest deviation from the usual champagne and amuse-bouches served (to distract journalists ;-)?)... Everything fit to purpose, very down to earth.
So we did not waist much time with the chocolates and quickly assembled in the conference room, where the OMEGA and METAS executives were already waiting, all smiley and sunny side up:
(left to right: OMEGA president Stephen Urquhart, OMEGA Vice President Production and Procurement, Andreas Hobmeier, METAS director Dr. Christian Bock as well as Swatch Group CEO Nick Hayek)
Swatch Group CEO Nick Hayek in his opening speech stressed the importance that the values of traditional watchmaking, beautiful products, history and innovation, are no longer sufficient in today's globalised world, citing the example that in certain parts of the world, 'Swiss made' watches are sold which never have seen Swiss soil.
Thus, according to Hayek, quality, perfomance and origin need to be reinforced which can only be done by putting emphasis on the notion of trust, i.e. setting up (or partnering with) an independent organisation competent to certify products in a fully transparent manner.
The solution to this is presented as the new Master Chronometer certification. This new standard is developed and will be supervised by METAS, the federal Swiss mterology agency, and expands upon the COSC standard. A Master Chronometer not only has its movement certified, but also the entire, fully assembled watch, according to much more stringent parameters.
Expanding on the above, OMEGA president Stephen Urquhart noted that the new Master Chronometer certification is the final building block of an impressive innovation process enacted by OMEGA since its 1999 decision to implement George Daniels' co-axial escapement. The other major milestones represent the silicon balance wheel (2009) and the completely anti-magnetic movement (2013).
By the year 2020, Omega's plan is for the entire (mechanical) OMEGA collection to be both co-axial as well as Master Chronometer-certified - an ambitious goal!
METAS director Dr. Christian Bock introduced his agency as an independent, government-run institution responsible for:
It was left to OMEGA's Vice President Production and Procurement, Andreas Hobmeier, to present the standard as well as OMEGA's Master Chronometer lab:
The new Master Chronometer standard sets forth a comprehensive 10-day testing procedure which tests:
OMEGA has summarised the Master Chronometer certification with this illustrative short video:
Having passed all tests, the watch in question is awarded with an official METAS-issued Master Chronometer certificate.
All rate results are automatically recorded into a SAP system and that can only be inspected by OMEGA and METAS. However, in order to create trust by means of transparency, each owner of a Master Chronometer-certified watch has access to the 'personal' results of his/her watch via a NTFC chip of the certificate card:
The above image BTW is a live-screenshot of the results of the first-ever watch to be certified by METAS, an OMEGA Globemaster Master Chronometer in steel. Which brings me to the final point of this part of my report:
Following the presentation, Anderas Hobmeier handed over the first timepiece which ever had passed the Master Chronometer certfiication to OMEGA's president Stephen Urquhart.
Urquhart in turn invited Swatch Group CEO Nick Hayek and METAS director Dr. Bock to join him on stage for the presentation to the press:
(left to right: OMEGA Vice President Production and Procurement, Andreas Hobmeier, METAS director Dr. Christian Bock, Swatch Group CEO Nick Hayek as well as OMEGA president Stephen Urquhart)
Overall, I think this new open and transparent Master Chronometer standard is a good way to demonstrate to the world the power of innovation and dedication to excellence. The standard is set by the official Swiss standard setting agency, and it's supervised, monitored and controlled by the underwriting agency. The actual testing is done in a specialist laboratory directly within the OMEGA premises.
This process, as well as the standard's criteria, are both a door opener to a widespread acceptance and its potential Achilles heel at the same time. Any Swiss watch brand willing to undergo this certification is free to do so, and is equally invited to set up a laboratory facility similar to OMEGA has done. However, only OMEGA currently offers watches with a magnetic resistance of 15,000 Gauss and has testing facilities available, making the Master Chronometer standard practically an OMEGA exclusive show.
Nick Hayek's take on this is a follows: What OMEGA has done with the Globemaster and the entire OMEGA Cal. 89xx family (all equally antimagnetic movements) is not 'rocket science', so every brand willing to invest and upgrade its movements accordingly is free to do so. This is not an easy task, mind you. Nick Hayek for example reminded us of the difficult situtation the Swiss watch indusrtry is currently facing given the Swiss Franc exchange rate problem: Most of the local suppliers of machinery and testing equippment are no longer in operation or cannot deliver the tolerances required, forcing OMEGA (and many other brands) instead to procure crucial equipment in Germancy and France.
Only if further brands subscribe to Master Chronometer this standard will really be recognised as an independet certification of universal appeal (like COSC, for example).
Until then, OMEGA has to prove that it does honour the standard indeed as an open source standard and not as their private backyard. There still are some stumbling blocks to be removed, most of which related to tge fact that the Master Chronometer standard is pretty much driven by OMEGA. As an example, the 'Master Chronometer' trademark currently belongs to OMEGA; but I understand that it is in the process of being transferred to METAS. Issues like these are inevitable if a brand urges governement to develop new standards and certifications, but these have to be solved in order to attain wide acceptance.
For the time being, OMEGA clients interested in a Globemaster acquire a timepiece which represents the top-of-the-line when it comes to timekeeping precision, certified by an independent, neutral governmental body. Best of all: the certification comes at no charge to the customer!
Kudos to the team involved to make this happen:
MEanwhile, the master himself in a relaxed and satisfied mood ;-)
In the following two posts please find Part 2, a detailed description of the testing procedure as well as images from a visit to the OMEGA/METAS Master Chronometer lab, and Part 3, a hands-on review of the new OMEGA Globemaster watch.
At this stage I would like to thank the OMEGA Austria team for arraing this trip to Biel and thus making this report possible!
Thanks for reading,
Magnus
P.S.: The hedonist side of my soul was quite pleased to find yours truly depicted in the official OMEGA press release image ;-)
The first ever METAS-certified Master Chronometer watch is the new OMEGA Globemaster (presented first at BaselWorld 2015).
On a relatively short notice, I received the invitation to attend the press conference launching a new open standard for watch certification, the METAS-approved Master Chronometer standard, combined with a rare opportunity to take a look behind the normally-sealed curtains of the OMEGA headquarters. This gave me first-hand impressions of the testing & certification lab.
Thus early in the morning I found myself in front of one of the most well-known buildings in Swiss watch-world, the OMEGA headquarters in Biel:
In contrast to many shiny and architecturally-elaborate watch manufacturers, the OMEGA building is a functional and modest (ca. 1960/1970s) factory building. Its most impressive feature is the 4-stories pendulum centering in the staircase (note the number of the lamps at the ceiling ;-)):
I found the short reception quite a refreshing and honest deviation from the usual champagne and amuse-bouches served (to distract journalists ;-)?)... Everything fit to purpose, very down to earth.
So we did not waist much time with the chocolates and quickly assembled in the conference room, where the OMEGA and METAS executives were already waiting, all smiley and sunny side up:
(left to right: OMEGA president Stephen Urquhart, OMEGA Vice President Production and Procurement, Andreas Hobmeier, METAS director Dr. Christian Bock as well as Swatch Group CEO Nick Hayek)
Swatch Group CEO Nick Hayek in his opening speech stressed the importance that the values of traditional watchmaking, beautiful products, history and innovation, are no longer sufficient in today's globalised world, citing the example that in certain parts of the world, 'Swiss made' watches are sold which never have seen Swiss soil.
Thus, according to Hayek, quality, perfomance and origin need to be reinforced which can only be done by putting emphasis on the notion of trust, i.e. setting up (or partnering with) an independent organisation competent to certify products in a fully transparent manner.
The solution to this is presented as the new Master Chronometer certification. This new standard is developed and will be supervised by METAS, the federal Swiss mterology agency, and expands upon the COSC standard. A Master Chronometer not only has its movement certified, but also the entire, fully assembled watch, according to much more stringent parameters.
Expanding on the above, OMEGA president Stephen Urquhart noted that the new Master Chronometer certification is the final building block of an impressive innovation process enacted by OMEGA since its 1999 decision to implement George Daniels' co-axial escapement. The other major milestones represent the silicon balance wheel (2009) and the completely anti-magnetic movement (2013).
By the year 2020, Omega's plan is for the entire (mechanical) OMEGA collection to be both co-axial as well as Master Chronometer-certified - an ambitious goal!
METAS director Dr. Christian Bock introduced his agency as an independent, government-run institution responsible for:
- maintenance of standards
- contribution to the International System of Standard Units (SI)
- Research & Development
- Industrial (calibration) and legal metrology (verification, supervision & conformity assessment)
- technical criteria
- organisational requirements
- staffing requirements
- audit test procedures
- statistically analyse all results
- random sampling to identify any issues in production, test routines and machinery
It was left to OMEGA's Vice President Production and Procurement, Andreas Hobmeier, to present the standard as well as OMEGA's Master Chronometer lab:
The new Master Chronometer standard sets forth a comprehensive 10-day testing procedure which tests:
- average daily precision at two different temperatures
- function of a naked movement as well as an assembled watch during exposre to magnetic fields of 15.000 Gauss
- deviation of daily precision after exposure to 15.000 Gauss magnetic field
- deviation of rate at six different positions
- deviation of rate at 100% and at 35% of its rated power reserve
- power reserve of movement
OMEGA has summarised the Master Chronometer certification with this illustrative short video:
Having passed all tests, the watch in question is awarded with an official METAS-issued Master Chronometer certificate.
All rate results are automatically recorded into a SAP system and that can only be inspected by OMEGA and METAS. However, in order to create trust by means of transparency, each owner of a Master Chronometer-certified watch has access to the 'personal' results of his/her watch via a NTFC chip of the certificate card:
The above image BTW is a live-screenshot of the results of the first-ever watch to be certified by METAS, an OMEGA Globemaster Master Chronometer in steel. Which brings me to the final point of this part of my report:
Following the presentation, Anderas Hobmeier handed over the first timepiece which ever had passed the Master Chronometer certfiication to OMEGA's president Stephen Urquhart.
Urquhart in turn invited Swatch Group CEO Nick Hayek and METAS director Dr. Bock to join him on stage for the presentation to the press:
(left to right: OMEGA Vice President Production and Procurement, Andreas Hobmeier, METAS director Dr. Christian Bock, Swatch Group CEO Nick Hayek as well as OMEGA president Stephen Urquhart)
Overall, I think this new open and transparent Master Chronometer standard is a good way to demonstrate to the world the power of innovation and dedication to excellence. The standard is set by the official Swiss standard setting agency, and it's supervised, monitored and controlled by the underwriting agency. The actual testing is done in a specialist laboratory directly within the OMEGA premises.
This process, as well as the standard's criteria, are both a door opener to a widespread acceptance and its potential Achilles heel at the same time. Any Swiss watch brand willing to undergo this certification is free to do so, and is equally invited to set up a laboratory facility similar to OMEGA has done. However, only OMEGA currently offers watches with a magnetic resistance of 15,000 Gauss and has testing facilities available, making the Master Chronometer standard practically an OMEGA exclusive show.
Nick Hayek's take on this is a follows: What OMEGA has done with the Globemaster and the entire OMEGA Cal. 89xx family (all equally antimagnetic movements) is not 'rocket science', so every brand willing to invest and upgrade its movements accordingly is free to do so. This is not an easy task, mind you. Nick Hayek for example reminded us of the difficult situtation the Swiss watch indusrtry is currently facing given the Swiss Franc exchange rate problem: Most of the local suppliers of machinery and testing equippment are no longer in operation or cannot deliver the tolerances required, forcing OMEGA (and many other brands) instead to procure crucial equipment in Germancy and France.
Only if further brands subscribe to Master Chronometer this standard will really be recognised as an independet certification of universal appeal (like COSC, for example).
Until then, OMEGA has to prove that it does honour the standard indeed as an open source standard and not as their private backyard. There still are some stumbling blocks to be removed, most of which related to tge fact that the Master Chronometer standard is pretty much driven by OMEGA. As an example, the 'Master Chronometer' trademark currently belongs to OMEGA; but I understand that it is in the process of being transferred to METAS. Issues like these are inevitable if a brand urges governement to develop new standards and certifications, but these have to be solved in order to attain wide acceptance.
For the time being, OMEGA clients interested in a Globemaster acquire a timepiece which represents the top-of-the-line when it comes to timekeeping precision, certified by an independent, neutral governmental body. Best of all: the certification comes at no charge to the customer!
Kudos to the team involved to make this happen:
MEanwhile, the master himself in a relaxed and satisfied mood ;-)
In the following two posts please find Part 2, a detailed description of the testing procedure as well as images from a visit to the OMEGA/METAS Master Chronometer lab, and Part 3, a hands-on review of the new OMEGA Globemaster watch.
At this stage I would like to thank the OMEGA Austria team for arraing this trip to Biel and thus making this report possible!
Thanks for reading,
Magnus
P.S.: The hedonist side of my soul was quite pleased to find yours truly depicted in the official OMEGA press release image ;-)
OMEGA presents the 1st Master Chronometer, Part 2: the METAS certification lab
The Master Chronometer certification laboratory is set up in OMEGA's main building in Biel. It is a separate entity isolated from production, but it is still set up such that the current Globemaster production, for the time being the only watch to be certified, can be tested without unneccessary logistical effort.
All procedures, machinery and workforce here is METAS-certified and audited, respectively, which is why the separation is necessary in order to prevent any manipulation and disturbance.
Compliance of the lab to the METAS standard has been asserted just prior to our visit, and is proudly displayed in the corridor. The certificate states also that the auditing has to be repeated every three years in order to renew the conformity statement.
So what is actually tested? In total, there are 8 METAS-relevant tests which altogether require a testing period of 10 days. Given the fact that six of them actually last one day each, and in adition also the power reserve is verified, it is quite an organisational feat to concentrate all these tests into a period of only 10 days!
And this here is how it is done:
Before I present you with the impressions from the lab I would comment on the COSC requirement. For many of you (myself included) it came with a surprise that OMEGA sticks to the COSC certification as an entry point to the Master Chronometer procedure.
Initially OMEGA stated they would forego COSC certification as this is a kind of duplicate work. Moreover, the COSC requirements affect only the base movement (not encased and also still without automatic winding bridge). Furthermore, they are much less stringent than Master Chronometer: -4 to +6 sec/day vs. 0 to +5 sec/day, respectively, as illustrated below:
However, both Mr Hobmeier as well as Nick Hayek still see a benefit in the COSC certification, as it at least attests to the reliability of the movement during a 15-day period. Furthermore, OMEGA's loyalty to COSC should be valued as a push to the organisation to move forward.
But now, back into medias res: Measurement of average daily deviation in six positions and two temperatures each:
METAS requires that the daily deviation of a watch is recorded in all six positions for 24h, and this at two temperatures, 23° and 33°, respectively, the first representing a watch taken off the wrist (e.g. during night), the second a watch strapped on. Every test cycle starts with a fully wound watch.
Handling of the watches take place in two adjacent climate chambers (for each temperature one dedicated chamber) by means of fast and automated robots.
Sideral view into one climate chamber, with specialised trays of watches in dedicated positions:
Longitudinal view, with the robot arm at the distant end and several trays in the foreground:
A robot picks and turns watch trays:
The robots are fascinating to watch in their efficiency and specialised programming. Gisbert L. Brunner (watch specialist at www.redbulletin.com) has kindly provided me with the following video he took during our visit (thank you, Gisbert!):
At the begining of such a measurement cycle the a photographic snapshot of the watch is taken to record the initial postion of the hands, and then compared with a further one taken 24h later (and so on).
Currently, this optical determination of timekeeping is still done with human intervention, as the watch heads are manually placed on the recording tray (with computerised assisance for correct placement). Later, when the certification will be upscaled and increasingly more references are undergoing Master Chronometer certification, this step will be fully automated as well.
Perfect regulation in this example:
Once a tray of watch finsihed a cycle it is transported out of the climate chamber for the subsequent tests.
One of the really unique assets of the Master Chronometer certification laboratory is the 15.000 Gauss permanent magnet. I highlighted the word permanent because this represented a real challenge to produce, transport and set up such a magnet in OMEGA's workshops. It is one of the strongest magnets on earth!
The magnet houses a 7 x 7cm bore in which either naked movements or assembled watches are inserted on a carrier, all mounted on a specialised tray.
Measurement within the magnet is done acoustically and can be live observed on a monitor outside:
If a watch has passed all criteria so far, it is subjected to a water resistancy test. In this test, a given watch is scrutinised whether it achieves its rated water resistancy. This seems obvious but there is a special caveat to this...
METAS requires that the water resistancy is ascertained with the watches submerged with real water filled into the pressure chamber, actually, thus a brand trying to cheat here will face substantial losses...
Watches are removed after pressure exposure, and heated to a defined temperature (which is checked as well).
Then, a drop of cold water is poured on the glass. If the watch happens to be not tight enought, humidity will have accumulated inside and precipitate as tiny droplets below the (cold) water drop.
Finally, and of utmost importance for the acceptance and transparency of the Master Chronometer standard, there is a dedicated, separately sealed laboratory to which only qualified METAS-personell has access: the METAS implant. Here, METAS has real-time access to all measurements taken by the OMEGA certification lab, and analyse them and draw it own conclusions as to whether a certain parameter slowly drifts to its limit, thus requiring attention. Furthermore, METAS can at any time and without justification request that any OMEGA watch currently undergoing the certification procedure be handed over for an investigation to be underaken in this lab.
No personnel except METAS technicians have access here, not even the OMEGA president or the Swatch Group CEO!
In the last post I would like to quickly present you with some hands-on views on the OMEGA Globemaster watch.
All procedures, machinery and workforce here is METAS-certified and audited, respectively, which is why the separation is necessary in order to prevent any manipulation and disturbance.
Compliance of the lab to the METAS standard has been asserted just prior to our visit, and is proudly displayed in the corridor. The certificate states also that the auditing has to be repeated every three years in order to renew the conformity statement.
So what is actually tested? In total, there are 8 METAS-relevant tests which altogether require a testing period of 10 days. Given the fact that six of them actually last one day each, and in adition also the power reserve is verified, it is quite an organisational feat to concentrate all these tests into a period of only 10 days!
And this here is how it is done:
Before I present you with the impressions from the lab I would comment on the COSC requirement. For many of you (myself included) it came with a surprise that OMEGA sticks to the COSC certification as an entry point to the Master Chronometer procedure.
Initially OMEGA stated they would forego COSC certification as this is a kind of duplicate work. Moreover, the COSC requirements affect only the base movement (not encased and also still without automatic winding bridge). Furthermore, they are much less stringent than Master Chronometer: -4 to +6 sec/day vs. 0 to +5 sec/day, respectively, as illustrated below:
However, both Mr Hobmeier as well as Nick Hayek still see a benefit in the COSC certification, as it at least attests to the reliability of the movement during a 15-day period. Furthermore, OMEGA's loyalty to COSC should be valued as a push to the organisation to move forward.
But now, back into medias res: Measurement of average daily deviation in six positions and two temperatures each:
METAS requires that the daily deviation of a watch is recorded in all six positions for 24h, and this at two temperatures, 23° and 33°, respectively, the first representing a watch taken off the wrist (e.g. during night), the second a watch strapped on. Every test cycle starts with a fully wound watch.
Handling of the watches take place in two adjacent climate chambers (for each temperature one dedicated chamber) by means of fast and automated robots.
Sideral view into one climate chamber, with specialised trays of watches in dedicated positions:
Longitudinal view, with the robot arm at the distant end and several trays in the foreground:
A robot picks and turns watch trays:
The robots are fascinating to watch in their efficiency and specialised programming. Gisbert L. Brunner (watch specialist at www.redbulletin.com) has kindly provided me with the following video he took during our visit (thank you, Gisbert!):
At the begining of such a measurement cycle the a photographic snapshot of the watch is taken to record the initial postion of the hands, and then compared with a further one taken 24h later (and so on).
Currently, this optical determination of timekeeping is still done with human intervention, as the watch heads are manually placed on the recording tray (with computerised assisance for correct placement). Later, when the certification will be upscaled and increasingly more references are undergoing Master Chronometer certification, this step will be fully automated as well.
Perfect regulation in this example:
Once a tray of watch finsihed a cycle it is transported out of the climate chamber for the subsequent tests.
One of the really unique assets of the Master Chronometer certification laboratory is the 15.000 Gauss permanent magnet. I highlighted the word permanent because this represented a real challenge to produce, transport and set up such a magnet in OMEGA's workshops. It is one of the strongest magnets on earth!
The magnet houses a 7 x 7cm bore in which either naked movements or assembled watches are inserted on a carrier, all mounted on a specialised tray.
Measurement within the magnet is done acoustically and can be live observed on a monitor outside:
If a watch has passed all criteria so far, it is subjected to a water resistancy test. In this test, a given watch is scrutinised whether it achieves its rated water resistancy. This seems obvious but there is a special caveat to this...
METAS requires that the water resistancy is ascertained with the watches submerged with real water filled into the pressure chamber, actually, thus a brand trying to cheat here will face substantial losses...
Watches are removed after pressure exposure, and heated to a defined temperature (which is checked as well).
Then, a drop of cold water is poured on the glass. If the watch happens to be not tight enought, humidity will have accumulated inside and precipitate as tiny droplets below the (cold) water drop.
Finally, and of utmost importance for the acceptance and transparency of the Master Chronometer standard, there is a dedicated, separately sealed laboratory to which only qualified METAS-personell has access: the METAS implant. Here, METAS has real-time access to all measurements taken by the OMEGA certification lab, and analyse them and draw it own conclusions as to whether a certain parameter slowly drifts to its limit, thus requiring attention. Furthermore, METAS can at any time and without justification request that any OMEGA watch currently undergoing the certification procedure be handed over for an investigation to be underaken in this lab.
No personnel except METAS technicians have access here, not even the OMEGA president or the Swatch Group CEO!
In the last post I would like to quickly present you with some hands-on views on the OMEGA Globemaster watch.
great report Magnus and much appreciated!
The COSC people must be in a bit of a fix, but the true test of METAS will be how it is received by collectors over time.
Best to all,
Tim
Best to all,
Tim
OMEGA presents the 1st Master Chronometer, Part 3: Globemaster Hands-On Review
The first watch ever to qualify for the METAS Master Chronometer standard (or is it the other way round? The first standard currently only applying to this watch ;-)?) is the OMEGA Globemaster:
The Globemaster immediately strikes us, thanks to its resemblance to 1950s Constellation watches with their immensely beautiful and 3-D 'pie-pan' dial:
The execution of the dial is extremely precise and really 'clear-cut' - amazingly sharp and precisely defined edges (as well as a sunray brushing finish):
Towards the 6 o'clock position we find a date, above the rather restrained 'Master Chronometer' inscription. Only for those who know... ;-)
The bezel is actually a bit more complicated than it looks at first sight. To start with, in the steel version seen here it is made of extremely hard tungsten carbide. Furthermore, the ridges are smoothened, giving the watch an unmistakable appearance.
The watch I was shown featured a steel bracelet which is attached with a dedicated end link. It can be replaced by a leather strap (which is the case in the gold version shown below):
The bracelet is of very high quality as I could attest on my own wrist. Precisely made and with superb wearing comfort, partly thanks to a very practical micro-adjustment mechanism. Bracelets in general I think are an area where tremendous but rather unnoticed progress has been made in the last couple of years.
Through a display back we can admire the OMEGA Cal. 8900 movement. A very modern, efficient motor with 60h of power reserve thanks to two barrels, a free-sprung silicon balance wheel and hairspring in a co-axial arrangement, and finally a antimagnetic resistance up to 15.000 Gauss.
The Geneva stripes are executed in OMEGA's unique 'arabesque' pattern. In the display's center we note another homage to the venerable Constellation watches, the observatory medallion:
I am a fan of blue-dialled watches in general, but somehow this one leaves me a bit cold. This might be caused by the bezel which always appears a bit 'greyish'. Overall, a very comfortable watch and certainly a pleasure to wear. And a certified top-perfomer, for sure!
A very loveable alternative is the version in 18 kt Sedna gold on a crocodile strap. Elegant, solid, with much charm (I also think the gold brings out the dial much better). Images provided by Oliver (small-luxury-world). It also reminds me a bit on the breathtaking Rolex Kew chronometers...
So, with these impressions I would like to close my report on the new Master Chronometer certification and the first watch to ever comply to this standard. I hope you enjoyed the report.
Thanks for reading,
Magnus
The Globemaster immediately strikes us, thanks to its resemblance to 1950s Constellation watches with their immensely beautiful and 3-D 'pie-pan' dial:
The execution of the dial is extremely precise and really 'clear-cut' - amazingly sharp and precisely defined edges (as well as a sunray brushing finish):
Towards the 6 o'clock position we find a date, above the rather restrained 'Master Chronometer' inscription. Only for those who know... ;-)
The bezel is actually a bit more complicated than it looks at first sight. To start with, in the steel version seen here it is made of extremely hard tungsten carbide. Furthermore, the ridges are smoothened, giving the watch an unmistakable appearance.
The watch I was shown featured a steel bracelet which is attached with a dedicated end link. It can be replaced by a leather strap (which is the case in the gold version shown below):
The bracelet is of very high quality as I could attest on my own wrist. Precisely made and with superb wearing comfort, partly thanks to a very practical micro-adjustment mechanism. Bracelets in general I think are an area where tremendous but rather unnoticed progress has been made in the last couple of years.
Through a display back we can admire the OMEGA Cal. 8900 movement. A very modern, efficient motor with 60h of power reserve thanks to two barrels, a free-sprung silicon balance wheel and hairspring in a co-axial arrangement, and finally a antimagnetic resistance up to 15.000 Gauss.
The Geneva stripes are executed in OMEGA's unique 'arabesque' pattern. In the display's center we note another homage to the venerable Constellation watches, the observatory medallion:
I am a fan of blue-dialled watches in general, but somehow this one leaves me a bit cold. This might be caused by the bezel which always appears a bit 'greyish'. Overall, a very comfortable watch and certainly a pleasure to wear. And a certified top-perfomer, for sure!
A very loveable alternative is the version in 18 kt Sedna gold on a crocodile strap. Elegant, solid, with much charm (I also think the gold brings out the dial much better). Images provided by Oliver (small-luxury-world). It also reminds me a bit on the breathtaking Rolex Kew chronometers...
So, with these impressions I would like to close my report on the new Master Chronometer certification and the first watch to ever comply to this standard. I hope you enjoyed the report.
Thanks for reading,
Magnus
I've looked at the versions and really like the platinum!
Here's a couple views to show the beautiful variations in the style on this version.
This message has been edited by cazalea on 2015-10-27 09:57:31
Factory website image displays the platinum case, bezel and sandblasted platinum dial.
Polished white gold hands and markers are filled with blue enamel (not lume) and platinum-colored thread on the blue strap brings the theme all around the wrist to a deployant clasp.
White gold medallion of the observatory is filled with blue enamel. Only 352 of these will be produced, for around $40k US.
Polished white gold hands and markers are filled with blue enamel (not lume) and platinum-colored thread on the blue strap brings the theme all around the wrist to a deployant clasp.
White gold medallion of the observatory is filled with blue enamel. Only 352 of these will be produced, for around $40k US.
It's a beauty.
Cazalea
Cazalea
This message has been edited by cazalea on 2015-10-27 09:57:31
Omega Globemaster echoes one of my favourite watches
Magnus,
Thank you for the Eyewitness Report; very detailed and filled with valid commentary viz. business, industry and scientific notes.
My medical physics is a bit rusty since I am no longer an accredited POPUMET radiation administrator but using the rule of the 4th power, I'm wondering how far away people with medical devices and unshielded wristwatches should stand from that permanent magnet? 
Or should they just buy a Globemaster watch for work?
I like the new tungsten carbide bezel as a concept because even with the 'coin-edge' pattern, the gold ones suffer a bit from wear and tear.
Omega Constellation day date
I say replace the blue dial with frosted silver dial on steel case and tungsten carbide bezel: It could be a universal...er....global masterly stroke. 
Mehh....Superlative Chronometer...Master Chronometer...Patek Philippe Chronometer standards...make no difference in the real world.
Customers already decided based on the brand name: you want a Rolex or Omega or Patek Philippe? You get one.
Regards,
MTF
If the permanent magnet's not strong enough, I know where they can find an electromagnet ...
I heard the General Atomics guys are building a spare, so it might be available for a loan if Omega wants it ...
Very interesting and time will tell how it evolves
Huge work, nice done Magnus.
I had many questions/interogations while I was reading your indepth report.
Of course, we know how this industry (luxury+watchmaking) works and we've been used to remain on a very "defensive" stance in the past: brands claiming performances and standards they were in fact playing with...
So I guess it is natural to remain critic and questionning every aspect of this project.
This being said, I think it is a good way to go and, in the end, setting an independant organisation is a good thing (through a internal control scheme is not a problem imho).
But for what purpose: accuracy (chronometric performance), finishing, "Green" approach etc... ?
For the moment I understand it is for accuracy or anti-magnetic capabilities. And I know many watch fans are very careful about chronometric performance of their watches.
But I would like to add this is, only one (yet important) aspect among several. For me, for instance, it won't be as much important as finishing or materials origin.
Naturally, Omega brings this fight on the ground where they are good and this is perfectly understandable of course as accuracy or reliabliity are elements which are worth defending.
But not the only one to consider when on the verge to purchase a watch (to me again).
I hope that with time, other brands (out of SGroup) will participate. This being said, I don't think that if they don't, it means they are afraid because they are not "good enough".
I'm sure that the brands belonging to other watch groups will prefer creating their own, but I may be wrong
However, I'm not going to criticize the endeavour and the spirit. I will remain positive and hope it will move in the right direction and bring better information for the customers.
By the way, I read they wanted to include a co-axial feature in every watch: I love this "complication" but, thick as it is, will it suit to every models of the collections?
Furthermore, I read at the beginning they had a concern about the geographical origin of the material used to craft the watches (in all the industry, not only SGroup of course): this is an issue that is of the most importance to me. Not for the screws but for the main elements, assembling, finishing etc...
Thank you very much Magnus, this is definitely something worth following in the future.
Cheers, Mark
This message has been edited by Mark in Paris on 2015-10-27 09:16:41
I had many questions/interogations while I was reading your indepth report.
Of course, we know how this industry (luxury+watchmaking) works and we've been used to remain on a very "defensive" stance in the past: brands claiming performances and standards they were in fact playing with...
So I guess it is natural to remain critic and questionning every aspect of this project.
This being said, I think it is a good way to go and, in the end, setting an independant organisation is a good thing (through a internal control scheme is not a problem imho).
But for what purpose: accuracy (chronometric performance), finishing, "Green" approach etc... ?
For the moment I understand it is for accuracy or anti-magnetic capabilities. And I know many watch fans are very careful about chronometric performance of their watches.
But I would like to add this is, only one (yet important) aspect among several. For me, for instance, it won't be as much important as finishing or materials origin.
Naturally, Omega brings this fight on the ground where they are good and this is perfectly understandable of course as accuracy or reliabliity are elements which are worth defending.
But not the only one to consider when on the verge to purchase a watch (to me again).
I hope that with time, other brands (out of SGroup) will participate. This being said, I don't think that if they don't, it means they are afraid because they are not "good enough".
I'm sure that the brands belonging to other watch groups will prefer creating their own, but I may be wrong
However, I'm not going to criticize the endeavour and the spirit. I will remain positive and hope it will move in the right direction and bring better information for the customers.
By the way, I read they wanted to include a co-axial feature in every watch: I love this "complication" but, thick as it is, will it suit to every models of the collections?
Furthermore, I read at the beginning they had a concern about the geographical origin of the material used to craft the watches (in all the industry, not only SGroup of course): this is an issue that is of the most importance to me. Not for the screws but for the main elements, assembling, finishing etc...
Thank you very much Magnus, this is definitely something worth following in the future.
Cheers, Mark
This message has been edited by Mark in Paris on 2015-10-27 09:16:41
These words by Mr Nick Hayek were interesting in relation to Asia
"Swatch Group CEO Nick Hayek cited the example that in certain parts of the world, 'Swiss made' watches are sold which never have seen Swiss soil."
How true those words are as Swatch Group was one of the first and still is the largest owner of Asian factories for wristwatch components and assembly. As long as the Swiss 'added value' exceeds the requirement, that watch can be legally 'Swiss Made'. Omega was the first watch brand to be allowed to blazon its name in Tian-An-Men Square in Beijing, such is the Swatch Group power and investment in China.
My childhood was spent in Malaysia and even then, the big Swiss factory on my island made Swiss watch parts. The late Rolf W. Schnyder cut his watchmaking teeth by starting the Cosmo dial and watchcase factory in Thailand. Clients included many Swiss watch companies like Mido, Certina, Rado, Tissot, Camy, Fortis, OMEGA and many others are still shrouded in 'anonymity'.
He later opened the Precima factory in Malaysia making micro-components, balance springs and sapphire crystals. His connections with ASUAG and ETA convicned them to transfer movement production to Precima in Malaysia.
Ulysse Nardin brand revival followed but always insisting that the most important thing is that R&D of the movement is kept "in-house" and that assembly of the whole watch on one site was not a definition of "Manufacture".
Thailand
Regards,
MTF
Very nice report...but I hope
I'm not paying extra for these overheads (dream on I guess). Omega prices has been pushing higher lately, more so than the 2015 Rolex Perpetuals and other lines.
By the way, I heard Rolex is also pondering about price increase from my local AD.
When I buy a watch, I buy the Brand, and trust the Brand to it's heritage and standards. The Brand name itself should be sufficient to say the least.
Adding an extra certification, not so sure about that yet....but maybe another attestation?
The internet has almost remove boundaries in the world, transportation efficiency, company globalization, info, parts etc. have really push the limits.
Recently, I saw the $2500 Jiusko Tourbillon in some website, and I'm scared, really scared now.... it's not the 80's Quartz invasion that almost kill the Swiss watches this time, it may be self-inflicted global investment, digging our own grave so to speak, it Brands start to lose their competitive edge and not protecting their proprietary information.
Nevertheless, I am liking Omega now and the best looking one to me is the Platinum, with no date, then the SS Blue.
Thank you for sharing this report.
Rgds
Raymond
Raymond, as I stated the METAS-certification comes free of charge for the customer...
its just the surcharge for the antimagnetic movement over its standard siblings.
Best,
Magnus
Best,
Magnus
A new open standard? Well, I have some doubts...
First of all, thank you Magnus and congratulation for your very brilliant article. Of course I'm sure you're an excellent scientist, but as a journalist/writer, well... you're a hugely talented man!!!
About the Master Chronometer Standard: if I was the CEO of an Omega's competitor I would never apply, since it would mean to reach the silver medal, at best.
I don't know if this certification is better than the others (furthermore: how to define which is "the best"???) , but I think that not even a single more Omega will be sold thanks to it. And if such a consideration should be true: why to dedicate so much efforts? Maybe for "political" reasons? In other words: maybe the Swatch Group needed to "pay" something to the Swiss Federal Government? We should ask Mr. 007? Noooo, he's already too much involved with Omega!
Ciao,
Elio