Cartier

If I told customers that I would get alot of returned watches and angry customers    Its so easy to make a screwdowncrown, don't see why this is omitted in an otherwise fine watch.

If the o-ring is axially loaded, the thread does nothing?

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Thanks for sharing your impressions and numerous photos with those of us that have not yet had the pleasure of seeing this new model in person.  I am definitly looking forward to seeing it in person hopefully in the next few weeks.  I like this watch far more than the Ballon Bleu, which for some reason I just cannot warm up to. 

While I do understand that this watch, is not designed as a diving watch, I do think a greater water resistance (maybe to at least 50m) would help make this watch an even greater competitor to watches from Rolex and IWC.  Although, maybe by making this watch only water resistant to 30 m, it gives Cartier the opportunity at a later date to make a sportier "divers model" with a greater water resistance and on a rubber strap or SS bracelet. 

I look forward to seeing one in person in the future.  Thanks again for the superb report and photos about the Calibre.

Best regards,

Dino

I was wondering if someone would raise that point. Cartier product development is sophisticated and nuanced, so a Calibre de Cartier Seatimer or something like that is a distinct possibility. Imagine how it would look with a turning bezel and screw down crown?

- SJX

You really do see it right Dino and it's certainly a good suggestion to beef up the water resistant,
but on the other hand, I never understand all the fuss about the water resistant of a watch.
I know so many guys with one or more Panerai watches, but none of them ever swims with that diving watch.
The whole discussion about the fact that a watch should be water resistant to XX meter,
is such a macho attitude, hardly based on practical usage.
Since when it really comes to diving, I see more Casio's at the beach than my eyes can handle.
GEO

Hi Geo,

I agree there is a good percentage of watch owners that basically drive desks all week long (myself included)  so water resistance really is not important.  To be honest, I've rinsed my Submariner in the sink to clean it, but thats the only time it has been in contact with water. 

While deep water resistance is largely theoretical for most owners, and as you suggest a bit of bragging rights (like a car company boasting about having the most horse power or the highest top speed), I do think it could create a sub species of Calibre.  As SJX suggested, which is kind of what I had in mind a "Seatimer Calibre."  If done properly I think this would open another market segment for this watch.  Cartier has never had a "true diving watch"...I never really considered the Pasha Diver watches as true diving watches.  While the standard Calibre has the ability to be worn with a suit or casual wear, with my small wrist and its relatively large diameter, for me a Calibre would be purely a sport watch for casual wear.  But in the summer, its not really that practical to have a watch on a leather/croc strap.  So if they developed a rubber strap (or my preference a high quality metal bracelet), gave it a screw down crown, a sportier dial with luminous markings and no Romans (except maybe at 12), and possibly a rotating bezel (if they saw fit) they could have a very pure sports watch that could be good for use in the pool or at the beach.  They could even develop a chronograph version to further expand the "Seatimer Calibre" concept.

To be honest, I'm not much for a day at the beach ...but I really like a sports watch for a day of outdoor activities or driving a convertible!  So I'd definitely be even more interested in a Calibre if they made a pure sports watch version.

Best regards,

Dino

Everyone has chimed in with valuable suggestions on what a sportier Calibre
de Cartier could look like. Perhaps there is already something like that in
the pipeline. :-)

- SJX

...of a handsome looking watch imo.  I especially like the unique looking crown, crafted to look like a heptagon "nut", which gives the watch a less formal, mechanical look.  My only criticism is that the numbers on the subdial could be a little thinner and less prominent.  

Congrats on getting the first review of this watch.  What a wonderful opportunity.  

And they even make matching cufflinks:

- SJX

Great post, SJX!  I enjoyed reading your thoughts.  There is a goodly amount of Cartier DNA in this piece that makes it very attractive.  I think it will be successful for them.  Naturally, as I'm sure you can guess, the date window is like a horrible scar on the face of the watch for me -- mostly because I hate this particular type of date display, but I otherwise really enjoy all the other design cues.

I especially like the treatment of the hands, subdial, and crown. 

Thanks again, and great pictures, as always!

Cheers,

Daos 

Other Calibre de Cartier models will be unveiled in the future and the date just may change.

- SJX

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Especially in gold. Cartier have really done themselves proud with these pieces.

Great post. Thanks for putting it together, SJX.

In fact I think that is the best of the whole range.

- SJX

I really like the case shape and lugs.  The massive curved lugs looks like the watch will wear extremely comfortably on the wrist.  However, my intiial impression (I haven't seen the Calibre de Cartier in person yet) is that the dial is a tad too busy for my taste.

The reason why I thought this is because the sub-seconds dial at 6 o'clock reminds me of the Roger Dubuis Chronoexcel dial (see picture below) which I feel is slightly too busy as well.  The font of the numbers is almost the same too, and it took me a while to figure out why the Calibre de Cartier sub seconds dial reminded me of another watch dial. 

Roger Dubuis dial

Cartier dial

I find the railroad tracks and numbers at the perimeter of the seconds subdial are too bold in both these dials and could be toned down a bit IMO.

Either way, the Calibre de Cartier should be a big hit IMO.  It's priced very well, and hope to see a version with a higher water resistance like what many here have already stated.  A black ADLC version would look smoking hot!

Cheers,
Anthony

 

This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2010-05-19 20:16:12

Cartier has committed significant resources to ADLC to the extent of building a facility to coat the cases of the Santos 100 Carbon. Given the investment ADLC will definitely find its way into other products.

- SJX

 Roger Dubuis was my first thought as well, thanks for pickking a better picture than i could find.

Quite a departure for Catier, even with some of the iconic details. It does not imho quite get there.

 Mind you i thought the sam of the Roadster before seeing it live.

 

Thanks for the nice review! SJX

in my opinion at least. But do share your thoughts once you have seen the Calibre in the metal.

- SJX

Thanks for your review,
I enjoyed reading through the article, and find a point where my opinion differs with your own. I find the size of the hands on this watch well proportioned, and feel larger hands would spoil the watch, not enhance it.
Rishad

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