Cartier

Launched at SIHH 2010, the Calibre de Cartier is a totally new design for Cartier and this is the world's first review of it. This in-depth review is split in five parts for easy reading.

Review of the Calibre de Cartier

 

By SJX

May 2010

 

The watch being reviewed is on loan from Cartier. It is one of the very first Calibre de Cartier watches made.

 

Launched at SIHH 2010, the Calibre de Cartier is a sharp departure from Cartier’s other lines. Conceived entirely as a sports, or at least sporty, men’s watch, the Calibre is aimed at a segment in which Cartier has yet to establish a significant presence.

 

 

Cartier has made sports watches thorough its storied past. The watch designed for the Pasha of Marrakesh to swim with was a notable early waterproof watch while the Santos was designed as an aviator’s watch. But because of their refined aesthetics neither of these watches or their descendants can truly be regarded as sports watch in the modern sense of the term.

 

More recently Cartier has presented watches like the Roadster and 21 Chronoscaph, as well as the Pasha Seatimer which features a rotating elapsed time bezel. Last year saw Cartier unveil one of its most aesthetically radical watches, the Santos 100 coated in black ADLC. All of these watches, however, are derivatives of existing designs.

 

In contrast, the Calibre de Cartier is a wholly new design, conceived for a particular segment. It is not a diver’s watch like the Rolex Sea-Dweller, nor a pilot’s watch like the IWC Mark XVI; instead it is the kind of watch that is entirely suitable for daily wear to the office and perhaps to the gym. It is, in short, a type of watch that caters to a very broad market.

 

 

 

Yet this watch is hardly bland or generic. While the Calibre de Cartier retains design flourishes that are identified with Cartier, like the sword hands and sapphire in the crown, it looks and feels very different from any Cartier that has come before, primarily due to its large and sculpted case.

 

 

 

But what’s inside the new case is equally significant. The Calibre de Cartier uses a new in-house calibre, the 1904 MC, a simple and robust movement with evident potential for production on a large scale. Coupled with its US$6500 retail price, it puts the Calibre in a strong position relative to others in this price range.

 

This message has been edited by SJX on 2010-08-23 05:28:08

A whole new look

 

I love the look and finish of the case. The design, especially the prominent lugs, is somewhat reminiscent of the Gerald Genta Gefica but more refined; more city than Safari.

 

 

 

At 42 mm the watch is not enormous but possesses presence owing to the broad lugs and large crown guard. It can sometimes appear larger than 42 mm and the perception of size is enhanced by the narrow bezel and large dial. But it sits very well on the wrist thanks to the curve of the lugs.

 

 

The width of the case, however, is complemented by an unexpected slimness. At only 10 mm high, the watch has an elegant diameter-to-height ratio giving it a pleasing profile on the wrist.

 

Another well thought out element on the case are the hoods over the ends of the leather strap which makes the strap appear to be integrated into the case when in reality it is a regular straight-ended strap secured by screwed bars. The hood over the strap also completes the aesthetic coherence of the case by bridging the gap between the lugs and continuing the curve of the crown guard.

 

 

The construction and finish of the case is truly excellent and better than many comparable watches in this price bracket. Brushed surfaces are fine and evenly finished while the lugs have prominent polished bevels. Even the concave underside of the lugs are adequately finished, even if not as well as on the top and sides. 

 

 

 

 

Below: Hand-finishing of the lugs at Cartier manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds  

 

 

 

The attention to detail extends to the crown guard which is polished on the side and set with a pair of brushed steel inserts secured by screws.

 

 

The crown is friction fit and water resistance is 30 m. Like the Santos, the crown has seven facets and is set with the trademark sapphire. The blue stone is a subtle touch and the only element of colour in an otherwise monochromatic watch.

 

 

Ordinarily a stone in the crown results in a more formal or even feminine look but Cartier cleverly recessed it so the stone sits flush with the crown. As such the sapphire is only evident from the side and not visible when reading the time.

 

The case back is secured by 8 screws with traditional slotted heads. A display back reveals the movement that admittedly looks a bit small. Notwithstanding the small movement, the proportions of the dial and front of the watch are perfect.

 

  

The case is well designed and also well finished – I give it high marks.

This message has been edited by SJX on 2010-05-16 00:39:24

Fantastic photos as usual. Great Work Always a pleasure to read your articles!
Thanks for this sharing.

I am a bit suspricious for this Cartier.

For me a Cartier is a watch like no other.
A tank, a tortue and more recentyle a Ballon Bleu are unique watches, nothing can be compared.
Their style is directly recognized as Cartier. Something really unique in the dress watches. The comparison is a bit dared but like Panerai in sport watches.
I am not fond of Ballon Bleu but what a fantastic design. Incredibly pure and bold style with perfect proportions. At first look you know which brand it is.

Here I do not see a Cartier, I see a modern, interesting watch. The dial reminds me of Cartier but the case???
Where is this elegant and pure style? Where is the magic that make you say "ho a Cartier !".

Maybe I am wrong but I do not see the most important thing in this watch, its identity.

Cheers

Francois.

First, Cartier wanted a case that is totally different and distinctly masculine. They succeeded in that.

Second, I agree that it does not look like a Cartier in terms of how the consumer sees Cartier today. But with time, and with line extensions to beef up the Calibre de Cartier range, it is very possible the Calibre de Cartier will become a watch that is a Cartier, more than it is a watch, just like the Tank and Santos.

- SJX

As for me, I keep my point of view for the moment, I see a watch not a Cartier.

The Santos 100 was a good example to succeed in doing a casual watch with keeping Cartier style.
The mystery version is just amazing. So modern, so Cartier at the same time.

Cheers

Francois

The new look continued

 

Of the entire watch, the dial design leaves me the most conflicted feelings. It is a strong and distinctive design that incorporates some stylistic elements that are conventionally associated with Cartier. Though overall design is handsome, some of the details are not to my taste.

 

 

 

Like the case, the finish on the bezel is careful and well executed. It is concave with a brushed inner ring and a polished top and outer edge. While the visual effect of the concave bezel is pleasing, the polished surface is susceptible to nicks due to its shape and finish.

 

 

 

The dial is fine shade of silver with several textures (brushed, grained and guilloche) and of high quality with precise printed text. It is dominated by a massive “XII” but avoids looking crass with smaller Roman numerals and baton indices for the rest of the dial. All the indices are set on a track with concentric rings. Cartier’s ‘secret signature’ is incorporated into the “X” marker. What gives the dial a modern and sporty feel is the outer railway minute track with Arabic numerals. It works almost as a porthole through which the rest of the dial is viewed.

 

 

 

While the combination of baton and Roman numeral indices seems unusual, the result is pleasing. The baton indices accommodate the sub-seconds dial better as they leave the lower half of the dial less cluttered. Being polished metal with black borders, the baton indices also provide a subtle contrast to the Roman numerals which are black figures with white metal borders.

 

The hands, on the other hand, are a bit too narrow. They could do with being a bit more substantial to match the overall design of the watch.

 

Both the seconds sub-dial and date are placed in polished metal frames, highlighting them. I find the numerical markings on the seconds sub-dial unnecessary. They are probably necessary to fill the space on the sub-dial though, without them it would be uncomfortably large and empty.

 

 

 

  

The most controversial aspect of the dial is without question the date. The aperture displays three consecutive dates with an arrow to indicate the correct date. It is reminiscent of the date aperture on the IWC Top Gun watches. I find it looks odd.

 

 

 

While the date aperture does echo the arc of the crown guard nicely, I would have preferred a conventional date, or maybe one at 6 integrated into the sub-seconds dial. The detailing of the date disc itself, however, is first-rate; it is sandblasted matte silver that is a shade darker than the silvery-white of the dial.

 

 

 

A subtle element that is not readily apparently but frames the dial nicely is the serrated ring running around the perimeter of the dial. Marked with 120 notches, the ring reflects on the edge of the sapphire crystal and gives the dial a bit more depth.

 

 

 

Importantly, legibility is excellent. The hour markers are large and obvious while the minute track is readily apparent. While the hands are slimmer than I prefer, they do are easy to read. Night time visibility is less good, as Luminova is only applied on small markers are 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock as well as on the hands. The slim hands do not help legibility in low light.

 

Overall the dial is attractive and the design elements I find incongruous, like the date, are not apparent on the wrist. I do not like the dial as much as I appreciate the case, but I like it nonetheless.

This message has been edited by SJX on 2010-05-16 00:29:35

I was thinkiung more allong the lines of UTC, in fact it could have been. Parhaps with the sub secconds as date?

But think a "pano date" display might have been intreguing to. Might hab\ve been to bold though ...

so what is mention is possible.....

- SJX

A subtle landmark

 

Named the 1904 MC for the year Louis Cartier created a wristwatch for pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont, this is the first automatic movement to be made in-house by Cartier. With the exception of a handful of parts like the balance wheel and hairspring, movement components are made by Cartier, either at La Chaux-de-Fonds or Buttes in the Canton of Neuchâtel, with assembly and testing done at La Chaux-de-Fonds.

 

 

 

Measuring 11 ½ lignes and 4 mm high, the movement is designed to be reliable, easy to service and suitable for mass production. Notably it is the same diameter as the ETA 2892, if slightly thicker, enabling it to be an easy replacement for the 2892.

 

 

 

The 1904 MC is constructed with double barrels that unwind in series for more consistent torque over the 48 hour power reserve. Sitting on ceramic ball bearings, the rotor winds both barrels are wound bidirectionally thanks to a V-shaped pawl. This winding mechanism is very similar to Seiko’s “Magic Lever”. Compared to the traditional reversers (in ETA calibres for instance), the V-shaped pawl theoretically offers more efficient winding.

 

 

 

The escapement is conventional, featuring a smooth Glucydur balance with a lever that touches its rim to stop its oscillation when the crown is pulled. While not remarkable in any way, this escapement set up is tried and tested and works tremendously well.

 

This particular specimen being reviewed uses the short lived version 1 of the 1904 MC. Several subtle differences exist between v.1 and 2. Most obviously v.1 is fitted with an ordinary ETAChron regulator as seen here, while v.2 sports a C-shaped regulator. For increased robustness, the second generation is 4 mm high, compared to 3.86 mm for v.1. Also, in the first version, the wheel train bridge is integrated with the barrel bridge, but in v.2, the two bridges are separate to facilitate servicing.

 

 

 

The first batch of steel as well as steel-gold Calibre de Cartier watches were fitted with v.1 of the movement while the solid gold models were delivered with v.2 of the movement from the beginning. However, Cartier has since switched to the v.2 movement for all Calibre de Cartier models, regardless of case metal.

 

Though it is by no means a fancy movement, it does its job superbly. This is not unexpected given the design of the movement. The daily variation on this specimen was no more than one second and it generally gained a consistent one second a day.

 

Finishing on the movement is appropriate for a watch of this price range. Attention is paid to ensure it is aesthetically pleasing. It is by no means high horology but it is sufficient. Striping is consistent and catches the light nicely, while lettering on the rotor is engraved and then filled with black lacquer.

 

 

 

The 1904 MC is an important development for Cartier in terms of brand development and competition. It signals Cartier’s push into more serious watchmaking in all segments, not just the top end. It will certainly find its way into many more Cartier watches in the sub-$10,000 price range. Such a movement will bestow a higher degree of credibility to those watches, relative to the current various ETA movements used, making the products far more competitive, especially with more technical brands like IWC and JLC.

 

 

This message has been edited by SJX on 2010-05-16 00:26:24

I need to soak it in a little more, but I rather like it so far. Thanks!

_john

Hi SJX,

You mentioned that, " Cartier has since switched to the v.2 movement for all Calibre de Cartier models, regardless of case metal."

I went to the the Cartier boutique and several AD and saw the v. 1 movement on the all steel version. I called Cartier and they insist that the v. 2 movement is only available in the all gold version. Where did you hear that the v. 2 movement has trickled down to the steel version? I'm very interested in purchasing this the steel version but would like the slightly more robust v. 2 movement.

Thanks!

This message has been edited by smn on 2010-06-23 12:00:43

Last month I was told by Cartier Paris (HQ, not boutique), that production of all Calibre de Cartier would contain V2, though early batches used the V1 for the steel version. Each production batch is quite large though, hundreds at least, so there are likely quite a few already at stores.

Let me know if I can help with more info.

- SJX

SJX,

Thanks for the response (and thanks for the amazing review)! I am very much interested in purchasing the steel version but the one thing that is holding me back is the fact that there are two versions and I feel that v. 1 might be inferior to v. 2. Do you think there is a significant difference in performance between the two (or enough to justify waiting, perhaps several months, before purchasing)?

-Smn

There is no performance difference between the two movements. Personally the only substantive difference is the C-shaped regulator, not that it works any better than the ETAchron, but because it looks better. Simply put, the v1 is in no way inferior and you won't go wrong with it.

- SJX

I have to agree, the C-shaped is much nicer looking and distinctly Cartier. I wonder why they didn't start production with the C-shaped regulator. Do you think it would be expensive to replace the ETAchron regulator with the C-shaped regulator when they are servicing the watch?

-Smn

indicate that they will not upgrade movements from v1 to v2, unless the customer specifically requests for it. I will find out the cost and get back to you.

- SJX

Sounds good. Thanks for going out of your way to help me

Hi SJX

I bought the Calibre in Panama a few days ago as a birthday present... How can you tell which version of the 2904 caliber did I get? Is there a v1 or v2 printed somewhere?

Many thanks... This is my first Cartier watch and can wait for my birthday to open it...

This is the v1 movement with the v-shaped regulator index, it is the part adjacent to the purple jewel with a screw in between the two prongs of the "V".

The v2 movement has a regulator index that is shaped in a "C".

- SJX

A small complication

 

Suitably wide and thick for a watch this size, the 24 mm strap is alligator and made in Austria (by Hirsch I would think). It is padded and high quality if a little unimaginative in colour.

 

Cartier deployant clasps are distinctive in style and structure. They have a trademark “C” shaped buckle as well as a system of looping the strap back on itself leaving the strap looking seamless when on the wrist, with no end poking out. This is the latest iteration of the Cartier buckle, with loops on each side. The original Cartier buckle designed by Louis Cartier used fixed length straps, and the second generation had a loop only on one side.

 

The downside of this configuration is twofold. First, it requires gymnastic dexterity to adjust and size, particularly when the strap is new and stiff. Fortunately adjustment of the strap can be done at the boutique where the staff members are nimble fingered. Second, the strap needs to be a very precise length as if it is too long the clasp does not sit properly centred on the bottom of the wrist. Because the strap loops inward, the length of adjustment is limited by the length of the strap on the inside as well as the thickness of the strap.

 

The upside of this complicated strap and buckle are the clean lines of the strap and clasp.

 

 

 

The clasp is polished with rounded edges and while of good quality, could have been more substantial and detailed, in keeping with the styling and finish of the case. For instance Cartier delivers the Santos 100 on a clasp with screws echoing the screws on the bezel of the watch. A clasp designed specifically for the Calibre de Cartier would be minimal incremental cost but be tremendously more attractive.

This message has been edited by SJX on 2010-05-16 00:27:30

Variants

 

This watch is also available with a black dial and also in steel with a gold bezel or entirely in 18 ct rose gold. Models set with diamonds are also available. I find the silver dial variant being reviewed here is the most attractive, because of the contrast between the black filled Roman numerals and the silver dial.

 

 

Above: A selection of rose gold and jewelled watches  

 

 

Above: The Calibre in steel and steel-gold   

 

The Central Chronograph and flying tourbillion are also available in the Calibre de Cartier case; the chronograph is especially appealing in this guise. Both are part of the high watchmaking collection and are a big step upwards in price.

 

Above: Calibre de Cartier central chronograph

 

Above: Calibre de Cartier flying tourbillon  

 

Final words

 

This watch represents a milestone for Cartier on two fronts. It is a departure from the traditional Cartier aesthetics, putting it in a different segment from existing Cartier products. At the same time the Calibre contains a new movement marking a significant landmark in Cartier’s evolution into a vertically integrated watchmaker.

 

It is a well thought out and finished product. I like the watch very much, especially the distinctive, strong case. I also appreciate how well it sits on the wrist. This will be successful product.

 

 

This message has been edited by SJX on 2010-05-16 02:57:37

thanks for sharing your in-depth and first-hand experience with this new caliber. Wondering about something though. Can't help but think it would be nicer if available with rubber strap? I think it would add tremendously value and versatility to the already strong/masculine appeal of this piece which undoubtedly will be flying off the shelves given its reasonable list price as it is. Thanks again for sharing...

That is a good idea. The same thought crossed my mind but being only water-resistant to 30 m a rubber strap may give owners the wrong idea. However the folks from Cartier read this forum studiously so I am sure some of them are reading your suggestion right now.

- SJX

it really might give owners the wrong idea. Its great that Cartier folks are reading this and I do feel that with your almost daily updates on this brand and its new direction, have a feeling that Cartier is only a very short time away from their goals of getting recognition and revenue from the areas which they currently still do not dominate.

Sorry to segue onto a totally different subject but still on rubber strap... is the Santos 100 in steel case that came with a rubber strap water resistant to a lower depth than 30m?

Thanks again JX and great post!!

is water resistant to 100 m.

- SJX

Very interesting SJX, to read your extensive users experience with the watch,
especially since you wear it now for quite some weeks.
The model has grown on me a lot, while I am more a 'historic' kinda Cartier man.
In fact it's, in my opinion, the first watch by Cartier made for the mens market,
which makes it pretty interesting.
All lines and details are very, very masculine and less 'elegant' than f.i. the lines
of the large Ballon Bleu Chronographe, (a watch that I truly adore, by the way).
Glad you mention the new deployant clasp.
The second generation, that had the loop only on one side, was so much more elegant,
just one folded flap on the inside and a nicer buckle.
Hopefully the current model remains available too.
Rob's suggestion of a rubber strap is a good one; rubber is so ideal in warmer countries
and our European Summers (if any)
and I do hope that Cartier will use rubber more often, on future products.
The movement is one of the strong points of the watch and I am really looking forward how Cartier
will develop this automatic 1904 and implement it in future watches.
Many collectors had something against my Santos 100, only because it's powerd with the (very reliable)
049 ETA movement.
I have a feeling thats' over now and I am pretty sure we will see many more in house movements,
used in the new collections next year.
Time will tell.
GEO

to make a watch that is clearly masculine, a move away from the formal and sometimes feminine look that is associated with Cartier. And regardless of whether one likes the aesthetics, the designers succeeded very well in that aim.

- SJX

I saw "30m water resistance" ?   Sorry but this is not a sports watch, its hardly even useful for daily wear....  A screwdown crown and at least 100m is a must for me if one is to call it a sports watch...  Epic fail by Cartier here on what is otherwise an extremely nice watch in this pricerange...  lets hope they rectify this in the future.

30 m is more than enough for daily wear. And it will do all right in a pool as well, though the strap will not.

Water-resistance to 100 m or more means a watch is good for diving and snorkelling, and that is a requirement that is not really needed by 90% of watch buyers.

Also, remember water-resistance it does not mean the watch can be worn while in the shower, where heat and soap can impair the seals.

- SJX