Cartier

The mythical everyday watch means different things to different people. One of my everyday watches is the Santos Galbee in steel. In fact it is one of my favourites. In no order of importance:

1.    Bracelet – Humid weather in SE Asia dictates that a bracelet is more practical, though I have to admit with enough watches that are rotated throughout the week leather straps are never really worked too hard.

2.    Automatic with date – The movement is an ETA 2892; the convenience of a date and automatic winding is obvious. The fact that the movement is an ETA does not bother me at all; I am indifferent to it.

3.    Moderate size – At 32 mm wide this is not a large watch, in fact I sometimes get the comment it looks small. The size and slimness means that it sits comfortable on the wrist without moving. And in a pinch it can be pressed into service as a formal watch under double cuffs. Though it is small, the design is distinctive enough that sometimes people recognise it.

4.    Cost – this is not overly expensive which means it’s easy to wear, yet it’s not that inexpensive so it still feels fairly good on the wrist.

This is a watch of the seventies and perhaps eighties. The Santos Galbee was launched in 1978 as a steel and gold watch, part of Les Must de Cartier (“I must have a Cartier”).  And Gordon Gekko wore a solid gold moon phase model (quartz unfortunately) in Wall Street.

But Cartier has kept it up to date with subtle design improvements. This Santos Galbee is the latest iteration and the best in my opinion. The case is sleeker, with a flat case back, and a much high quality bracelet.

Interestingly the bracelet for this watch was only added in 1978, decades after the original Santos of 1904, yet the bracelet is visually perfect with the case styling.

Practical aspects aside, this watch is beautifully executed externally. The case is wonderfully finished with brushed surfaces and polished, bevelled edges. Admittedly the wonderful finish makes it somewhat prone to visible scratches.

Though it is almost monochrome, the blued hands and sapphire cabochon in the crown give it a rich dash of colour.

The biggest shortcoming with this watch is the lack of a half link for the bracelet. Because the clasp is hidden, there is no micro-adjustment at the clasp. Consequently adjustments have to be made by removing or adding links, which are only available in one size.

This watch is a perfect combination of practicality, design, quality, and branding. A perfect everyday watch.

- SJX

The case and bracelet are impressive.

- SJX

from the house of Cartier. I should start saving up for one. Thanks for sharing Jia Xian.

it is accessibly priced. Not cheap but fairly accessible. And though there is no Cartier that is actually cheap or super value for money, I think this fair quite well in that respect given the case and bracelet quality.

- SJX

While I don't think it is a sports watch exactly, the combination of brushed links with polished screws does make it have a certain panache.

- SJX

One of the more contemporary Pelikan pens. Mine is still the ultra traditional green stripe M800.

- SJX

We need more of these kinds of reviews of our everyday watches.  You made the case compellingly, and i agree it is a very attractive piece.

Best,

respo

many watch collectors are not buying functional objects, first and foremost.

Most people have one or two or three cars, but for someone with many watches, maybe dozens, the functional aspect of the marginal watch purchase often matters less.

But I do understand your point.

- SJX

I wrote that I am indifferent to the movement in this watch because the key attraction of the Santos is not the movement, rather it's aesthetics, case and bracelet. There are other watches where the movement does matter, for example my Chopard LUC which is almost entirely about movement and not about brand, design etc.

Different watches have different qualities and I appreciate them for those different qualities. I think it is limiting to apply the same criteria to all watches across price points.

- SJX

The only “in-house” I have (because I could only afford one in my watch-buyer life) is a JLC Reserve de Marche which movement was a big factor when I made the decision of buying a first-class watch in 2007. Nevertheless, aesthetics played a fundamental role in my choice. It is like my TAG Carrera Tachy and a Baume & Mercier Hampton that had kind of a “limited” output – both carry ETAs, but I love how they look!

The Chopard LUC is one of my favorite watches, BTW.

Regards,

Marcelo

The Santos case/design is what makes it iconic and not necessarily the movement in this very particular "case".

... Rolex Oyster case, case in point.  Some watches, really about the movement as much as it is with dial/case design. E.g., JLC Duometre/Lunaire, Moonwatch/Lemania 5100...

Although... of course... the thing needs to work first and foremost... but that is almost a foregone conclusion with a generic but reliable ETA base.

You are right, it looks bigger than it actually is. And its size gives it an elegance that is missing from the Santos 100.

The retail is in the region of USD6000. Not cheap by any standard but fair, in my opinion.

- SJX

Dear SJX,

thank you very much for confirming that this watch will be next purchase. In my opinion this watch borders perfection at least for my user profil.

The perfect watch would be the Galbee in XL with the limited edition black dial with its luminous Roman numbers. Unfortunately this version came only in the Auto size and is too small for me.

Also I admire your photographic skills.