Cartier

Divided into sections for easy reading.

- SJX

The Tank Anglaise is the third major iteration of the Cartier Tank after the Tank Francaise and Tank Americaine. It is also the largest, with broad case flanks. It is a natural evolution of the Tank, since most of the current Tank models, like the bestselling Tank Francaise, are getting a bit small and feminine by modern standards.

 

A key element of the new Tank is the crown. It is hidden below a crown protector and unfortunately is a bit too fiddly. It is a sort of a double crown, pull out the thin inner crown with the sapphire cabochon for setting; the outer crown also serves the same function once the inner crown is pulled out.

 

 

 

 

For now the Tank Anglaise is only available in the three colours of gold with matching bracelets. It is too much metal in the large men’s version, especially since it is currently only available with a bracelet, but as a midsize or ladies watch it looks good. I imagine the future strap versions will work better in the larger sizes. And I’m sure steel models will be released eventually too.

 

The large model, using the 1904 MC automatic, is 47 mm by 36.2 mm and 9.82 mm thick.

 

 

 

 

 

The medium model has an ETA automatic calibre and is 39.2 mm by 29.8 mm.

 

 

 

And the smallest model is quartz and 30.2 mm by 22.7 mm.

 

 

 

 

Another new Tank is the classic Louis Cartier XL. Previously the Tank Louis Cartier was only available with quartz movements, now it has an ultra-thin Piaget calibre. The case is 40.4 mm by 33 mm and a mere 5.1 mm high, making this Cartier’s slimmest mechanical watch. This is available in white gold or rose gold, with the option of a diamond bezel.

 

 

 

 

 

The third new model is the limited edition Tank Folle. In the same vein as the Crash, the Tank Folle is in white gold with a diamond set case. Without diamonds this would actually make a nice masculine counterpart to the Crash. The movement is either a Frederic Piguet or JLC manual wind calibre. It’s limited to 200 pieces.

 

 

This message has been edited by SJX on 2012-02-01 20:16:54

But the Tank Anglaise, no ! I don't find Cartier elegancy in it!

I was not convinced by it.

Thanks SJX.

Fx

I'm quite certain of that. It will look radically different. Next year perhaps?

- SJX

Cartier Fine Watchmaking at SIHH 2012 comprises a solid and varied range. At the very top is a new calibre in the minute repeater, but there are also useful new entry level timepieces, like the new annual calendar with an eminently practical display.

 

We’ll start with the watches many have long asked for – with smaller case sizes. Two models have been unveiled, the first being the Rotonde Flying Tourbillon. It uses the same tourbillon calibre with Geneva Seal first seen in the Ballon Bleu tourbillon, except the case is a mere 40 mm.

 

And the dial is conservative in the traditional Cartier style – silvered guilloche with blue steel hands. The only indication this is a watch from the Fine Watchmaking range is the two-level dial, with the indices sitting above the guilloche base. This will retail for about EUR66,000 in rose gold and EUR70,600 in white gold, making this Cartier’s entry level tourbillon wristwatch.

 

 

 

 

 

Similar in style is the new Rotonde Perpetual Calendar. It has a 40.5 mm case and the same 1904 MC based calibre as the Tortue perpetual with retrograde day indicator. Like the Rotonde Flying Tourbillon, the dial styling is restrained. Pricing is also fairly accessible at EUR37,000 for rose gold and EUR39,600 for white gold.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Both this and the Rotonde Flying Tourbillon are well priced and classical in style, but not outstanding technically or visually. They serve as excellent entry level models for the FWM range however.

 

Another new model that is a variant of an existing piece is the Santos Dumont Skeleton in rose gold. Originally in white gold, then ADLC coated titanium, the Santos Dumont Skeleton is one of the best sellers of the FWM range.

 

Though physically identical to its siblings, the rose gold version is naturally much louder. This might work better for female wrists too, because the white gold version can look a bit cold. This is EUR30,000 or so, a bit less than the white gold skeleton.

It is a tourbillon, perpetual calendar and monopusher chronograph with eight day power reserve. The 52 mm case is white gold with skeletonised Roman numerals machined from a block of white gold. All the Roman numerals are hand-bevelled, front and back, which totals over 300 bevels calling for three weeks of work.

 

 

 

 

10 pieces will be made with a retail of EUR500,000. A further five with diamond-set cases will be available. The price generously includes a rock crystal and obsidian desk stand, as well as a matching white gold chain.

 

Also using an existing calibre is the new Cadran Love Tourbillon. The movement was first used in the crocodile tourbillon of 2011 and is openworked in a manner that gives it a pleasing architectural look. That is complemented by the concave Roman numerals that sweep across the left side of the dial. All of that – the movement and numerals – sit on a grey guilloche base.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Because of the design the case is 46.2 mm but result remains balanced and proportional. This would actually make a very attractive ladies watch. Though this is an aesthetic, rather than technical, innovation, it is beautifully executed.

 

A watch that has been designed specifically is the Panthere Masse Secrete. Not only is it a new model, but unusually for a ladies’ jewellery timepiece, it contains a clever new movement.

 

 

 

 

 

The jewelled panther on the dial – which is a very subtly toned dark mother of pearl – is actually the rotor of the watch. It winds bidirectionally and is linked to gearing on the perimeter of the movement.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Contrary to the initial impressions, the panther is not co-axial with the canon pinion for the hands. According to Carole Forestier, the winding efficiency is similar to that of a regular automatic, despite the unconventional mechanism.

 

 

 

Retail on this will be EUR130,000. Pricey no doubt but not unreasonable, given the brand, diamonds and novel calibre.

 

Another new calibre for 2012 is found in the Rotonde Annual Calendar. It is automatic and based on the 1904 MC.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Legibility was the goal when this watch was conceived, and Cartier has achieved that. The dial is cleverly layered to accommodate all the calendar indications. Though it looks busy legibility is excellent; the red tipped hands for the day and month are more than easy to read.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

My only gripe is that the date is set fairly deep inside, due to the dial layers. The annual calendar is a practical watch that does what it’s supposed to do well, without bells and whistles.

 

Finally we get to the flagship complication of the year, the Rotonde Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon. Cartier has unveiled an impressive number of complications in the last few years, and the minute repeater of course tops them all.

 

 

 

Much research was done over several years and the result is a repeater with volume, tone and clarity that is excellent. That is especially so for the titanium case version (it’s also available in rose gold). There are lots of details to explain for this, and I will examine the repeater in detail in another post.

 

In terms of finishing this also excels. More important than the fact that it has the Geneva Seal, is that the calibre actually has the highest standard of finish of any current Cartier timepiece and is comparable to the other top haute horlogerie houses.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Visually it is handsome, though not quite elegant. The case is 45 mm but the movement is enormous, so the weight is minimal. The titanium version for instance weighs a mere 32.1 g. I do like the symmetry and animation of the exposed hammers and gongs on the dial, but I find the tourbillon an unnecessary distraction.

 

 

 

 

50 pieces will be made in each metal, with a price of EUR230,000 for titanium and EUR240,000 for rose gold.

 

But in addition to the Fine Watchmaking models covered there, several other variants set with varying quantities of diamonds were launched as well.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And one new complication model for ladies is the tourbillon with bird motif. Last year saw this movement with a crocodile, which I didn’t like, but this enamel and jewelled bird is eye-catching.

 

 

 

 
An interesting new model that is part of Cartier’s unofficial entry level small complication range is the Rotonde de Cartier large date with second time zone. The case is 42 mm and it has a big date, dual time and day/night display. Based on the JLC developed 8000 MC movement, this was first seen in last year’s Pasha with the same functions. This is available only in rose gold and will be an unnumbered limited edition of 700 pieces.

 

 

 

I like a lot this case, its elegancy.

And the pocket watch is... WOW!

Thanks for the pics !

Fx

I reckon.

I do find the new tourbillon Rotonde a bit boring though.

- SJX

Next are the Cartier d’Art watches. These demonstrate various artistic skills like enamelling and mosaic, usually depicting various animals. This year sees a new technique – flattened straw – used for the Rotonde de Cartier with koala motif.

 

It sounds silly but the straw dial is actually tremendous work. About 40 hours are required to make the koala dial, because the straw has to be split, hammered and cut before being assembled into the design. The result is a matte dial with muted colours that only reveals its details up close. The watch is 35 mm in white gold and is limited to 20 pieces.

 

 

 

 

A horse rendered in a mosaic of semi-precious stones like jasper and obsidian is the next in the Cartier d’Art collection. The dial is composed of 400 tiny pieces of stone, all cut and assembled by hand. This is in the Santos Dumont case, in white gold. It’s limited to 40 pieces and another 10 set with diamonds.

 

 

 

 

And then comes my favourite of the Cartier d’Art, the Rotonde de Cartier with tiger motif executed in email grisaille. This is a technique of enamelling that renders the subject in black, white and all the greys in between. The enameller starts with a plain black enamel dial before painting on additional layers for the design.

 

 

 

The tiger depicted is solemn and has gravitas. It is really striking and evocative. 100 of these will be made in white gold.

 

 

 

Much more whimsical is the Tortue with cockatoo in mother of pearl and enamel. The cockatoo’s body is comprised of bits of mother of pearl engraved to resemble feathers, while the beak, eyes and backdrop are enamel. This is a limited edition of 80 in white gold.

 

 

 

 

Also for the ladies is the Rotonde with ladybugs in plique-à-jour paillonne, a technique of enamel like stained glass. Though the enamelling technique is complex and rare, I don’t like the look of the watch. The resulting dial just doesn’t look sophisticated.

 

 

 

 

 

The last ladies watch is the Captive de Cartier with butterfly and flower in champleve enamel. This one is elegant, and I believe it is quartz.

 

 

 

Finally something for the Year of the Dragon (again). This Ronde is a limited edition of 100 pieces with an enamel dragon dial and a Piaget movement. The dial in maroon and black is too dark and consequently unattractive. A dragon motif should be brighter and more cheery.

 

 

 

Now for the jewellery watches. As is expected from a jeweller a mind-boggling number of jewellery watches were unveiled.

 

The animal themed watches are all beautiful, especially the delightful panda secret watch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There are also the various standard cases like Ballon Bleu and Bagnoire, covered entirely in diamonds.

 

 

 

 

 

And then we have some of the more artistic jewellery watches. This Bagnoire Folle looks somewhat hypnotic but is appealing in its own way.

 

 

 

Last is the Temps Moderne de Cartier watch. I like the idea of this watch – the dial actually revolves very slowly, giving the impression the gears are turning. But the overall design isn’t quite as graceful as one would expect from Cartier.

 

 

This message has been edited by SJX on 2012-02-01 00:47:07

I wish I had MORE money. Hahaha!!!

Great reportage SJX!

One of these days, a Cartier will surely grace my wrist. This new iteration makes the visualization process really easier. That Louis Cartier looks very tempting now that it has that Piaget movement. Would also be interesting to see the Anglaise in strap.

You have wrist shots?

Great photography as well

So far, from the SIHH offerings, I love Cartier and JLC the most from a general perspective. Different design philosophies and both are going at it very carefully but with very great resolve. Unbelievable.

i'd like to type some more praises but I think I'd be repeating myself :p

Thank you.

 

Sorry I don't have wristshots of either. But the Tank LC stills well despite its size. It feels very elegant, though it reminds me of a biscuit somewhat!

The Tank Anglaise on strap will come next year or the year after I am sure.

- SJX

appreciated,

Best

Imran

;-)

- SJX

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