Cartier

A few weeks after SIHH it is easier to reflect back on what was launched, especially for a brand like Cartier which had the largest collection of new models. I have been asked repeatedly to pick my favourites from each brand, so here are my top five watches from Cartier.

 

Panthere Masse Secrete

 

Because this is a ladies watch, it received a lot less attention than the mens’ watches. But it is no less interesting than most of them. It contains a new calibre, the 9603 MC with peripheral winding. But unlike other prior watches with such winding mechanisms, this watch has the rotor mounted on the dial.

 

 

 
 

Despite its appearance there is no pinion in the centre of the dial for the rotor, instead it is mounted on the perimeter of the dial on ceramic ball bearings. That is also where it links to the winding gears.

 

 

 

 

Also interesting is the movement design; notice the rounded and somewhat organic shapes of the bridges. While the movement finishing is good, I wish a more sophisticated or at least more pleasant looking regulator was used (this is a weakness is several of the in-house calibres).

 

 

 

 

Rotonde Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon

 

This flagship complication deserves a long post of its own. But to summarise, the minute repeater was developed in-house and was in development for several years with research done in four areas - loudness, pitch, timbre and reverberation – to ensure optimal acoustic performance. The result is a watch that sounds top class, easily on par with most other brands, and also loud at 68 dB.

 

 

 

Someone asked me how this compares to the fabled Patek repeaters. I am not sure as I had no chance to compare them side by side. But the fact that I am unsure means that this Cartier repeater is already very, very good.

 

 

 

Finishing is equally impressive. Care was paid to ensure this is the best finished Cartier watch in production today and that has paid off. This has the Geneva Seal, but that’s less important to me than the actual finishing, which is superb.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rotonde Annual Calendar

 

The minute repeater got the most publicity because it is a repeater, but the highlight of the Fine Watchmaking line is the annual calendar. Paradoxically it is difficult to do something simple, especially something useful and inventive. The annual calendar achieves all this with its multi-layered dial.

 

 

Red indicators point to the month and day. Although the dial looks busy, and it is, the calendar is legible because the red indicators stand out sharply.

 

 

 

The big date is also legible, though the dial means it sits quite deep in.

 

 

 

Notably, all the calendar indications are also adjusted via the crown. The annual calendar module was developed in-house, and sits on the in-house 1904 MC automatic calibre.

 

The case is quite large at 45 mm, due to the movement size of 30 mm (due to the calendar module) and the fact that the calendar has to fit on the dial legibly.

 

 

 

Priced at approximately EUR25,000 before tax, this is both an innovative and highly competitive product.

 

Louis Cartier XL

 

This year was a big year for the Tank with the launch of the Anglaise. But notable was the launch of the Tank Louis Cartier XL.

 

 

 

 

The Tank LC is in many ways the quintessential Tank, even though it wasn’t the first Tank design which was the Normale. But a few years ago the mechanical Tank LC watches were discontinued and only, horrors of horrors, quartz models were available. And to add insult to injury, they had a date window.

 

 

 

 

So to the relief of some the Tank LC is back in ultra-slim, 5.1 mm high form. The case measures 40.4 mm by 33 mm. The movement is the Piaget 430P hand-wind.

 

 

 

Tank Folle

 

Last is the Tank Folle, which reminds me of those cartoons where the character is electrocuted.

 

This watch follows the philosophy first laid down by the iconic Crash – squeeze, stretch and twist the case, and something beautiful will emerge. It is a simple idea, but it takes taste to execute well. Cartier excels at this and the Folle is the latest in a series of asymmetric watches.

 

 

 

This is limited to 200 and a ladies watch, measuring just 29 mm by 34 mm. But imagine the possibilities for a men’s watch? I know some are imagining that already.

 

- SJX

This message has been edited by SJX on 2012-02-14 03:13:40 This message has been edited by SJX on 2012-02-22 22:07:06 This message has been edited by SJX on 2012-02-25 05:05:07

Of your listed 5, my top 2 are the Repeater and the Annual Cal.  One have one gripe with each.... my gripe with the AC, the size, it would have been great if this was in a 40mm case like the entry level tourbi.. and my gripe with the repeater.. I can;t afford it.. sob

I compared it briefly with the repeater which is also 45 mm and it seems a tad smaller.

- SJX

till then, i'll hold judgement but although it wears small, 45 is nonetheless big regardless.. not amongst the odd sizes of watches guised as machines though

A worthy way to bring up 8000.  Thanks for this and your other SIHH reports.

I got to 8000 posts thanks to readers like yourself. 

I like the Rotonde case and I like the dial lay-out!

Thanks SJX for the wrap-up!

Fx

It was a great idea to have a summary like this one. This is where we see what the mods really think. That Panthere is already a looker but when you described how the rotor worked, wow! Simple approach but very elegant. I guess it would be irritating to check the time and see the rotor blocking a hand but women don't probably care

That Tank LC is very very nice and was surprised myself that they were only available in quartz when I visited an AD a year or two ago. Would you know the MSRPs and when they would hit the stores? I want to check it out. Would you also know if it has anti-magnetic properties? My reverso got mag'ed twice and it can be very irritating.

For this year, I'll probably be checking this Tank LC and the JLC MC. Still waiting for Nico's review on the latter.

I was surprised that you didn't mention the rotonde large date with second timezone. What do you think of that one? Pity that it's an LE. Would look nice in SS or some white metal variant like WG or Plat.

Great job, SJX!

I was thinking of the Rotonde dual time, but had to limit my selection to five! But if I could I would have included it. I think it's a good product at a good price point, though I find the tactile feel of the second time zone hand adjustment not as crisp as I would like.

 

I do agree a steel version would be great, just like the Pasha with the same movement from last year.

The Tank LC XL retails for about USD23,000 but that is very approximate. Unfortunately it has no soft iron inner cage, it is really thin after all.

- SJX

..

of the Rotonde Cadran Love Flying Tourbillon.  There is a picture of it in the February IW and it looks very cool.  The skelotonized roman numerals remind me of the new pocket watch.  As I am sure you know, the numbers are cut from a solid piece of gold.  The description of the the watch appearing as a small ampitheatre focusing on the mechanism is a good one, and the mechanism looks lovely.  If I have missed earlier comments, apologies for the question.  Otherwise I would love to here your thoughts.  Thanks.

 

Stewart

Like the dual time I mentioned in my reply to Echi, the Cadran Love tourbillon was one that didn't make the list but almost did. It is a bit though, but the design is outstanding. Like you said it is architectural, like an amphitheatre that highlights the tourbillon.

Even Carole Forestier said this was one of her favourites and she hopes she can get a prototype to wear; currently she's wearing the Tank Americaine tourbillon.

- SJX

The movement side looks very mono chromatic. Is there a reason why Cartier does not used blued screws?

Just like how Lange only uses blue screws. It's just aesthetics.

- SJX