Cartier

Cartier’s major new product line for 2012 is the Tank Anglaise. Reactions to this have been mixed, because of its dramatically different proportions from earlier Tank watches.

 

 

 

Visually this retains all the traditional Tank design cues, starting with the integrated bracelet. Remember that the first 1917 Tank was arguably the first wristwatch in the world with the integrated leather band.

 

 

 

The Anglaise is not yet available on a leather strap, but certainly will be, as seen on CEO Bernard Fornas’ wrist earlier this year.

 

 

 

 

The dial has all the traditional Cartier design cues like blue sword hands and the railway minute track. Nothing has been changed with this simple but successful formula. The dial, however, has a subtle detail – the hour and minute tracks are slightly raised above the guilloche portion, which gives it a slightly more modern feel.

 

“Fortified” is how Cartier describes the design of the Tank Anglaise. It is certainly the heftiest Tank watch available now. The large model measures 36.2 mm by 47 mm, which makes it a similar size to the extra-large tonneau or rectangular watches from brands like Franck Muller and Jaeger-LeCoultre. It certainly fills a gap in the product range; previously Cartier lacked a chunky rectangular watch as the other Tank models are mostly slim.

 

 

 

The parallel brancards of the case are wide and rounded. Cartier has integrated the crown into the case, so the sides of the case are streamlined.

 

 

 

 

Requiring a bit of explanation is the crown. Inspired by the wheel of a Tank, the crown is a kind of double crown. The centre portion with the sapphire cabochon can be pulled out to set the time and date, but larger, outer crown can wind the watch.

 

 

 

Because the crown is integrated into the case, winding is not particularly convenient. This is the only functional shortcoming of the watch in my opinion.

 

Mechanically the Tank Anglaise large model is respectable. It uses the in-house 1904 MC automatic movement first seen in the Calibre de Cartier. The movement is a solid, workhorse type so it is perfectly suited for a watch like the Tank Anglaise which is obviously created as a volume seller, as opposed to niche, high priced timepiece like the Santos Skeleton for instance.

 

 

 

The name is derived from Cartier’s historic boutique in London opened in 1902. Two earlier Tank collections, the Tank Francaise of 1996 and the earlier Tank Americaine of 1989 are named after the Paris and New York boutiques. The three stores are the maison’s landmark boutiques, with each originally run by one of the Cartier brothers.

 

 

Tank Americaine tourbillon 

 

The Tank Americaine was an evolution of the Tank Cintree so it still looks very traditional. On the other hand the Tank Francaise was modern with its angular lines, but it has gone on to become a bestseller, especially as a ladies watch.

 

So the final question, Tank Anglaise: yea or nay?

 

- SJX

 

 

  

This message has been edited by SJX on 2012-05-19 02:50:42 This message has been edited by SJX on 2012-05-30 02:40:22

on pictures... but yea on wrist...that's what counts
isn't it?
best
D

I reckon the strap version will look the best. I'm looking forward to actually seeing it in production on the strap.

- SJX

The watch lacks the Cartier elegance IMHO due to its "thick" case. I was expecting something much more refined even if with the strap, the watch looks better.

Fx

No message body

I just do not like the crown design.  Cartier's crowns are a beautiful part of their watch cases, so there is no need to hide them.  This design may make the outside lines of the case more streamlined, but the slit for the crown doesn't look good in my opinion.  I would prefer the typical rectangular case with a cabachon topped crown in its standard position.

 

Stewart

The opening in the case doesn't sit well with me either.

- SJX

Well I have only seen the watch in photos and base my choice on that.  And it looks good on Bernard with a strap.

The integrated crown look fine and I view it as an evolution of the Tank. Although, I must say I am wonder about the ease of use. The "crown guard" seems to get in the way, when one pulls the crown.

Gotta see it in the flesh ! And thanks for the additional photos!

Ps. May I know if this is only available in precious metals ? With the size of the watch and a bracelet to boot. It will be quite a heft !

But I am sure we will see steel versions and also on strap in the near future.

- SJX

The force majeure that Is Cartier cannot fail so the brain says any shape will do!

Tank Anglaise:  A big chunk of gold and the Cartier branding.....instant commercial success in China, Asia and elsewhere.  Richemont shareholders are safe.

 

The heart says Nay because it is not as elegant as the previous eponymous Tanks  --  LC or Americaine or Francaise. Separate design motifs are cute in their own way but the whole assembly?.......It is difficult to explain.....

 

At SIHH, I said that as a Brit, I am a little disappointed but thank goodness the French named it after the English  -- Tank Anglaise.  Welsh people don't care if a weaker design is dedicated to the English  

We are waiting for the perfect little Cartier watch to be named "Tank le Pays de Galles"....... hehehe.

 

Regards,

MTF

 

 

This message has been edited by MTF on 2012-05-23 08:56:02

I do not care for it.
I think they are taking a turn in the wrong direction.
Aesthetically it just looks off, the sides of the case look
like the were over poured in the mold and left to be.

So much will depend on how I like operating the crown. I have no problems with the basic design, though I would prefer it on a strap, as it eventually will come. For now I most like the Louis Cartier designs (power reserve model with date in particular), which perfectly balance elegance with masculine dimensions in a dress watch.

Bill