Comments:
Ever seen this 1970s Cartier Tank before?
I recently acquired this vintage Cartier stepped dial tank, partly because it seemed like a rather rare model. After doing some research, I found that Antiquorum auctioned a similar one in 2013 with a dark blue dial and identified it as the Cartier Ref. 1543 Galbé Gold Plated Cartier Paris, case No. 5-512-118, Ref. 1543, from the 1980s. This one has a black vermeil dial with gold lettering, and measures 26 x 27 mm, which is larger than any of the other tank watches made during this time. The dealer who sold me this one dates it from the 1970s. Does anyone have any more information or trivia about this particular model? I could find no mention of it in Franco Cologni's book "Cartier The Tank Watch," but that book is particularly weak on Cartier watches of the 1970s - 80s. Wondering if it was only offered by Cartier Paris, and whether it's from before or after the "Must de Cartier" era.
It's not a Tank
But what it is exactly, I do not know yet.
Around 1974 Cartier released a series of different models where your watch belongs to.
The Vendome, the Square Incurve, the Gondole, the Cristallor, the Ellipse,, the Coussin and the Square wristwatch.
Yours comes close to the lines of the Square Wristwatch and the Christallor, but it is different.
To the Tank family it does not belong. If I do find the exact model, I'll come back to your topic.
GEO
many thanks
Thanks Geo! I've seen a Vendome that has the same black vermeil on gold lettering style. Would love more information if you find it.
Thanks Geo for your input. As I wrote below, I was thinking about...
... a kind of evolution of the Square. Or of the Vendome Galbée.
Thanks a lot for your input!
Fx
Thanks a lot for your input!
Fx
It is not a kind of Cartier Square? I'm thinking about it due to the gadroons. [nt]
No message body
Cristalor closest match...
Probably before the ''Must line''. Cartier NY ?
There are no silver marks on the case,'' Must '' models where either plaque on 925 silver or the where made of 750 gold. A few where only silver without plaque.
Love the black dial.
Kind regards,
Ronald
Its a Cartier Tank Stepped NY Ref: 15716
Nice find!
Luckily you bought the rarer version of the 1970s Stepped Cartier Tank. Cartier
This model is a PRE-Must De Cartier with a gilded brass alloy back-plate and solid silver vermeil gilded front case and is referred to as the Tank Stepped (NY) with the Ref: 15716 made circa 1975 in the Cartier boutique New York with the ''FOUR SCREW back-case & large elongated cabochon sapphire crown which was partly integrated into the case design and it had punched serial numbers on the back case starting with the number 12 followed by its 6 digits serial number''.
The less desirable versions of this model had the Ref: 1543 and were made in the UK and France. The London boutique version had a SMALL crown which was NOT integrated into the case and had a push back-case with NO screws and it had sloppy back engravings (in English language) with NO serial numbers. The Paris boutique version also had the SMALL crown and a push back-case with NO screws and also had sloppy back engraving (in the French language) with NO serial numbers. Paris & London boutique were based closer together and they exchanged the same ideas and stock parts. NY boutique was a more independent store and they came up with their own parts and designs which reflects back in these three different variations. All three references are rare!
The Tank Stepped was considered oversized than any other Tank model during the 1970s and not many liked the artistic design of the case. It was only offered for a couple of years (1973-1976) but not many were sold which make them today very sought after! But the New York Ref: 15716 with the FOUR SCREW case and elongated crown is the best and rarest of the three versions. The dials were hand painted in lacquer and because of this all have aged with a patina to different colors which we consider today to be tropical. They came in white, blue, black and brown with gilded hand painted numerals and matching gilded sword hands. But the true classic iconic white Cartier dial with black numerals and black sword hands is the most desirable dial variation.
These Stepped Tank watches are still sleepers duo the lack of information out there. The Ref: 15716 New York version can fetch double the price than the Paris and London versions because of its better quality built, design and low volume production. In the last 20 years or so I've seen only less than 25 of these watches offered or sold and I have seen thousands and thousands of Rolex submariners.
The last one ive seen sold was by Theo & Harris watches and it was sold for $3955. And it was not even the better NY version but it was the London or Paris variation and it had a wrong back plate which was missing the brand and info engravings.
Luckily you bought the rarer version of the 1970s Stepped Cartier Tank. Cartier
This model is a PRE-Must De Cartier with a gilded brass alloy back-plate and solid silver vermeil gilded front case and is referred to as the Tank Stepped (NY) with the Ref: 15716 made circa 1975 in the Cartier boutique New York with the ''FOUR SCREW back-case & large elongated cabochon sapphire crown which was partly integrated into the case design and it had punched serial numbers on the back case starting with the number 12 followed by its 6 digits serial number''.
The less desirable versions of this model had the Ref: 1543 and were made in the UK and France. The London boutique version had a SMALL crown which was NOT integrated into the case and had a push back-case with NO screws and it had sloppy back engravings (in English language) with NO serial numbers. The Paris boutique version also had the SMALL crown and a push back-case with NO screws and also had sloppy back engraving (in the French language) with NO serial numbers. Paris & London boutique were based closer together and they exchanged the same ideas and stock parts. NY boutique was a more independent store and they came up with their own parts and designs which reflects back in these three different variations. All three references are rare!
The Tank Stepped was considered oversized than any other Tank model during the 1970s and not many liked the artistic design of the case. It was only offered for a couple of years (1973-1976) but not many were sold which make them today very sought after! But the New York Ref: 15716 with the FOUR SCREW case and elongated crown is the best and rarest of the three versions. The dials were hand painted in lacquer and because of this all have aged with a patina to different colors which we consider today to be tropical. They came in white, blue, black and brown with gilded hand painted numerals and matching gilded sword hands. But the true classic iconic white Cartier dial with black numerals and black sword hands is the most desirable dial variation.
These Stepped Tank watches are still sleepers duo the lack of information out there. The Ref: 15716 New York version can fetch double the price than the Paris and London versions because of its better quality built, design and low volume production. In the last 20 years or so I've seen only less than 25 of these watches offered or sold and I have seen thousands and thousands of Rolex submariners.
The last one ive seen sold was by Theo & Harris watches and it was sold for $3955. And it was not even the better NY version but it was the London or Paris variation and it had a wrong back plate which was missing the brand and info engravings.
see link for more about this watch
crown of 15716 or 1543
I would like to source a crown for the 1543 model. Where can i source a new or second hand one? and would the crown of the 1543 and the 15716 fit the same winding mechanism?
Regards,
Bradley