I’m not usually one to make impulse watch purchases, much less of something that has not been on my “Want List”, but every now and again, I do lapse. When I saw the M.A.D. 1 Red offered at a very reasonable price, I jumped on it. (I apparently was not the only one: the vendor listed three M.A.D. 1s
Breguet Classique 5967, "Art Deco Damier" , yellow gold. This is an extra-thin, hand-wound dress watch with a unique hand-guillochéed dial. The 41mm diameter is large for a traditional dress watch, but the movement completely fills the case, so I won't complain. Then again, I have a 7 1/4" (184 mm)
Another pointless wrist shot...but today's subdued lighting reveals the blued poire hands, elaborate dial texture, and expressive stepped 'spider' lugs on the Ulysse 1 LE Platinum (Ref. #279-80) to perfection. To me, this kind of design is representative of neo-vintage at its best.
Even if the Gauthier is more horologically impressive. The austerity of the Parmigiani dial, the shape of the hands, the bracelet geometry, the knurled platinum bezel, and the finishing on the microrotor all speak to me in a way that the kooky dial on the Roman Gauthier does not. Don't get me wrong,
The early GO 1845 Karée releases with hand-wound shaped movements are so sadly overlooked. I have a particular soft spot for the Perpetual Calendar. I do feel GO blew it when it switched over to round automatic calibers in the Senator Karée cases, but for a brief time, these shaped watches were some
1:1.4 on the original, 1:1.33 on the tourbillon. And yet, because of the dial layout on the tourbillon, it actually looks fatter (more square) than the original. The tourbillon's busy dial also strikes me as inelegant. I think Lange did the complicated Cabaret much better with the moonphase.
Besides that, the various dial apertures (besides the date) don’t sit well with me. I would love to see the Cabaret come back in the original case. That was perfection.