Mike H provides an exclusive first look at Patek Philippe's 2018 Baselworld novelties, captured during a special viewing in Paris. He offers detailed insights into key releases, including the Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740/1G, the Aquanaut Chronograph 5968A, and the Aquanaut Luce 5067A, highlighting their design innovations and market positioning.
Few days ago I seized the opportunity of the 2018 Basel
novelties of Patek Philippe being in Paris for seeing them in the metal. Let’s
have a look at them together…
You will not be surprised if I start with the long awaited
Nautilus Perpetual calendar 5740/1G. The Gerald Genta-designed Nautilus is in very high
demand since years and Patek Philippe is logically surfing on the wave. Instead
of increasing the number of pieces supplied to the market they upscale the
franchise by adding a high end version with a white gold case and bracelet for
being consistent with the high end complication.
Thanks to the caliber 240Q, the case is incredibly
thin with a 8.42 mm height making of this Nautilus the thinest perpetual
calendar from the entire range of the Swiss manufacturer. The power reserve is
min. 38 hours just like the more classical 5327. The blue dial is similar to
last year’s model celebrating the 40th anniversary of the Nautilus.
Since
we started with the the sport elegant Nautilus, let’s continue with the other
model of the line made for active life users with aquatic capacities, the
Aquanaut. Patek Philippe is here surprising us with this unexpected Aquanaut
Chronograph 5968A. It is the first time that this complication is used in this line
and it actually seems obvious that it had to be added in the line when you
think of it. The result is a sporty flyback chronograph embarking the in-house
CH 28-50 automatic caliber with column wheel and vertical clutch. Needless to
say it proudly carries the Patek Philippe seal. The dial design is very
consistent with the Aquanaut line but combines the well known grey square
pattern with interesting lively touches of orange on both the seconds hand, the
sub-counter hand and the seconds track on the periphery of the dial. This color
combination obviously addresses a younger target of customers with a trendier
style.
But
not only men have been well taken care of : the « Misty Blue »
new version of the Aquanaut Luce 5067A comes to us this year with a new blue-grey
dial. A beautiful chick yet sporty look for this model equipped with the Quartz
Manufacture caliber E23-250 SC. To be honnest I personnally have difficulties
to accept the idea of having Patek Philippe still having quartz movements in
some of their models for ladies. But I must admit that there is a market for
working ladies who are willing not to « waste their time » for
winding their watch and willing to have it ready to go immediately with no
adjustment… to tell you the truth my wife is among these ladies to my great
despair ! With its 46 diamonds bezel for a total of approx. 1.00 ct
this Aquanaut Luce will certainly attract many ladies…
Let’s remain with ladies and discover now another jewel with
the chronograph 7150/250R. This one is in another league : it is a superb
chronograph intended for modern active women with a fondness for exquisite
timepieces. It is powered by the manually wound movement CH 29-535 PS and the
bezel is set with not less than 72 diamonds (approx. 0.78 ct). That one would
definitely fits my wife’s wrist perfectly…
Stay tuned for part II
Mike
About the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ladies Ref. 5067
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ladies Reference 5067
The Reference 5067 represents Patek Philippe's ladies interpretation of the Aquanaut collection, distinguished by its precious metal construction and gem-set bezel. This series combines the Aquanaut's composite strap design with 18k white gold case materials and diamond accents, positioning it as a luxury sports watch offering within the brand's ladies lineup.
The 35.6mm case is crafted from 18k white gold and features a diamond-set bezel paired with a black dial. Sapphire crystal provides protection while maintaining water resistance to 120 meters. The timepiece operates on the quartz Caliber E15 movement and is completed with the collection's signature composite rubber strap.
Produced from 2006 to 2019, the 5067 appeals to collectors seeking a ladies luxury sports watch that combines precious materials with contemporary design elements. The reference serves those who appreciate the technical attributes of sports watch construction executed in precious metals with diamond enhancement, representing Patek Philippe's approach to elevated casual timepieces for women.
Specifications
- Caliber
- E15
- Case
- 18k White Gold
- Diameter
- 35.6 mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 120m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5740
The Nautilus reference 5740/1G-001 represents a significant addition to the Nautilus collection, integrating a perpetual calendar complication into the distinctive case design. This reference marked the first time a perpetual calendar was housed within a Nautilus, elevating its technical sophistication while maintaining the established aesthetic of the line. It appeals to collectors seeking a combination of Patek Philippe's high complications and the sportier profile of the Nautilus.
This timepiece features an 18k white gold case measuring 40 mm in diameter and 8.42 mm in thickness. It is powered by the ultra-thin self-winding caliber 240 Q, which provides a power reserve of 48 hours. The movement is visible through a sapphire crystal case back, while the front is protected by a sapphire crystal. The watch is water resistant to 60 meters.
The blue sunburst dial with its horizontal embossed pattern is characteristic of the Nautilus family, here featuring three sub-dials for the perpetual calendar indications. The integrated bracelet is also crafted from 18k white gold. This reference stands as a notable example of Patek Philippe's ability to combine complex horology with a distinct design language, offering a refined option within its grand complication offerings.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 240 Q
- Case
- 18k White Gold
- Diameter
- 40 mm
- Dial
- Blue
- Water Resist.
- 60m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Breguet Classique Ref. 5327
The Breguet Classique reference 5327 represents the Date Moonphase series within the model range, distinguished by its combination of calendar and lunar phase complications. This reference positions itself as a dress watch offering within the Classique lineup, incorporating both practical and astronomical display functions.
The watch features a 39mm case constructed from 18k white gold, fitted with a sapphire crystal and fixed bezel configuration. The silver dial houses the date and moonphase displays, while an automatic movement provides the mechanical foundation. Water resistance extends to 30 meters, suitable for daily wear scenarios.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking a complications-focused dress watch in precious metal construction. The 39mm case size accommodates contemporary sizing preferences while maintaining formal proportions. The white gold case material and silver dial combination creates a monochromatic aesthetic that suits both the Date Moonphase series identity and broader Classique collection positioning.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 591DRL
- Case
- 18k White Gold
- Diameter
- 39 mm
- Dial
- Silver
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5968
The Patek Philippe Aquanaut reference 5968 is notable for its chronograph complication, marking a significant addition to the Aquanaut collection. This reference introduces a sportier dimension to the line, combining the distinctive Aquanaut aesthetic with enhanced functionality. It is recognized for its vibrant color accents, particularly on the strap, which offers a contemporary appeal within the brand's offerings. The integration of a chronograph positions it as a more technically complex option compared to time-only or travel time Aquanaut models.
This Aquanaut chronograph features a stainless steel case, measuring 42.2 mm in diameter. It houses the self-winding caliber CH 28-520 C, a flyback chronograph movement known for its column-wheel control and vertical disc clutch. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal on the front and a sapphire-crystal case back, allowing for observation of the movement. It offers a power reserve of approximately 45 to 55 hours and is water-resistant to 120 meters.
For collectors, the 5968 appeals to those seeking a modern Patek Philippe with a robust and functional design. Its stainless steel construction and chronograph complication make it a versatile piece suitable for active wear. The option for different strap colors, such as the orange noted by collectors, allows for personalization and contributes to its distinct character within the broader Aquanaut family. This reference represents a contemporary interpretation of a luxury sports watch.
Specifications
- Caliber
- CH 28-520 C
- Case
- Stainless steel
- Diameter
- 42.2 mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 120 m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5968A
The Patek Philippe Aquanaut reference 5968A-001 is a contemporary iteration within the Aquanaut collection, distinguished by its chronograph complication. This model expands the Aquanaut's sporty appeal by integrating a functional stopwatch, catering to collectors who seek both casual aesthetics and enhanced utility. It represents Patek Philippe's continued development of its modern sports watch lines.
This reference features a 42.2 mm stainless steel case with a screw-down crown, ensuring water resistance. The self-winding mechanical movement, Caliber CH 28-520 C, powers the chronograph function, which includes a central chronograph hand and a 60-minute counter at 6 o'clock. The dial is black embossed with a checkerboard pattern, complemented by applied gold numerals with luminescent coating.
The 5968A-001 is notable for its vibrant orange accents on the chronograph hands and minute track, which are often paired with an integrated orange composite strap, alongside a black strap option. This color scheme enhances its youthful and dynamic character, making it a distinctive choice for collectors looking for a Patek Philippe with a more pronounced sporty identity and a robust complication.
Specifications
- Caliber
- CH 28-520 C
- Case
- Stainless steel
- Diameter
- 42.2 mm
- Dial
- Black embossed
- Water Resist.
- 120 m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
