Miranda, a respected voice in the Patek Philippe community, delves into the enduring legacy of the Calatrava, specifically highlighting the aesthetic merits of references 570 and 5196. Her post offers a visual feast of rare examples, including pieces from the OAK Collection, and challenges a common misconception about the reference 96's design origins. This exploration provides valuable context for both seasoned collectors and those new to the world of Patek Philippe's iconic dress watches.
The Calatrava is perhaps the defining watch of the house of Patek Philippe. The fame of the reference 96 is legendary ( and not designed by David Penney, ad originally speculated)
For me, aesthetically the best of the coin bezel versions has to be first the reference 570 sc, then the 5196, both because of their size 36mm & 37mm respectively and also because the subsidiary seconds doesn’t cut into the 6 o’ clock position
Now I know that probably many will disagree vehemently but each to their own 👍🏻
Here we see three pieces from the famous OAK Collection
Platinum, rose and yellow gold
These were inspired by the original legendary reference 570
Image Courtesy of Hodinkee
The Reference 570 has produced many amazing dial variations which are today sought after
Away from these rarities, my favourite vintage has to be the centre seconds version of the 570 for it’s purity of looks
A white gold is still quite a sagacious acquisition
Another rarity of the 5196 again platinum and with green accents - I don’t know who to credit this to
Finally my salmon
Also to debunk a myth
David Penny is often accredited with designing the 96, he wasn’t even born in 1932, but he fid the technical drawings for the Huber & Banburry book, hence the confusion
And my favourite 96 is this possibly unique beauty
The dial is well balanced here
About the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 570
The Patek Philippe reference 570 is a classic Calatrava-style dress watch, representing a significant period in the brand's production of time-only pieces. It is distinguished by its clean lines and minimalist aesthetic, embodying the traditional design principles that Patek Philippe is known for in its non-complicated watches. The reference 570 was offered in various metals and dial configurations, making each example unique within the broader series of Patek Philippe's round cased watches from the mid-20th century.
This particular example features an 18k white gold case with a diameter of 38mm. It is fitted with a sapphire crystal, protecting a silver dial. The watch is powered by a manual wind movement, reflecting the common practice for high-end dress watches of its era. The water resistance is rated at 30 meters, typical for a watch of this type and period.
The reference 570 appeals to collectors seeking a pure expression of Patek Philippe's watchmaking heritage, particularly those interested in the brand's foundational dress watch designs. Its various iterations, including different case materials and dial finishes, offer a range of options for discerning collectors. The enduring appeal of the 570 lies in its understated elegance and its representation of a specific era of Patek Philippe's design philosophy.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 27 SC
- Case
- 18k white gold
- Diameter
- 38mm
- Dial
- Silver
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Montblanc Calatrava Ref. 5196
The Montblanc Calatrava reference 5196 is a notable example within the Calatrava collection, distinguished by its adherence to traditional design principles while offering a contemporary size. It represents a period where the brand refined its classic offerings, providing a balanced option for collectors seeking a dress watch that combines historical aesthetics with modern wearability. This reference is often considered a direct descendant of earlier, smaller Calatrava models, updated to suit evolving preferences for case dimensions. It maintains the collection's reputation for understated elegance and precision.
This particular reference features a case crafted from 18k yellow gold, measuring 37mm in diameter. It is typically fitted with a manual-winding mechanical movement, reflecting a preference for traditional watchmaking. The watch is protected by a sapphire crystal, ensuring clarity and scratch resistance. The design emphasizes clean lines and a refined profile, consistent with the Calatrava's established identity as a quintessential dress watch. Its construction focuses on durability and aesthetic longevity.
For collectors, the 5196 appeals to those who appreciate a classic, time-only watch without additional complications. Its 37mm case size positions it as a versatile option, larger than some vintage pieces but still within the traditional dress watch spectrum. The yellow gold case and absence of a date window align with a purist approach to watch design. This reference stands as a solid choice for individuals seeking a well-proportioned and elegantly simple timepiece from a respected manufacturer.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal. 215 PS
- Case
- 18k yellow gold
- Diameter
- 37mm
- Dial
- Silver
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
