MichaelC
[AP Moderator]
21944
Thanks Dan. Full agreement here.
The old case style seems to get more charming to me by the day.
This was my first opportunity to try on a Perpetual Chrono Offshore, and as you can tell, I was very impressed. I love your idea of the titanium bracelet. Truth is, you would have some awesome strap options with that titanium model - Diver rubber w/ titanium pin buckle, Survivor hornback with red or grey stitching.... I better stop before I go too far!!
SIHH 2013 Audemars Piguet: The Grande Report
Well my Friends, it is time to begin PuristSPro in-depth coverage of Audemars Piguet's presentation at the 2013 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie. This thread will be ongoing for the coming weeks, as we add and develop the various components of t...
Part I - Review, Status, and 2013 Theme
In order to properly set the stage for the current direction at AP and best understand the new novelties, it is important to make a quick review of the past two years. In 2011, we saw a repositioning of the brand. While the new 44mm Offshores were launche...
That is the difference!
Marvelous coverage so far Michael! That is why Purists is my favorite and a must daily reading forum to me. It is not just about pictures of the novelties or whoever post it first but a perfect link between past, present and future on the development of a...
Thanks RTO.
I am definitely attempting to add some of the insight that was translated at the show, as it really pertains to not just this year but the coming years as well.
Seems like AP is learning from the Sterns
who decided that it was dangerous to let the Nautilus take over the brand. Good move.
If they were learning anything at all from the Sterns..
..then I don't believe they would be about to announce a price drop (which my AD confirmed on Wednesday). Having just bought a brand new rgrc, which I love despite the news, it is very annoying. The Sterns would be a lot less likely to have a price drop a...
It is a subject that we have discussed here in the past
And surely one AP has been well aware of. Maybe not such a bad problem to have - immense popularity and growth within a few of the lines. But AP has a long history of tradition, and they are embracing their strong roots. It certainly seems they are well u...
Clearly, a transition year for AP
And it is absolutely not a problem: FHB and the whole AP staff are working hard on the future of the company by making some important strategic moves: distribution, upcoming movements, prices etc... So the 2013 collection was quiet but a lot of promises a...
We heard the same message my Friend.
I'm very confident in the direction and what we will see in coming years. You have to really applaud AP for analyzing where they were, and where they are going. It would have been very easy to keep making some new models here and there and remain on top. ...
15202 for me!
.. or skeleton version of it. BUT, other new offerings are attractive as well. Nice line-up and report, Michael! Ken
Thanks Dave.
It is mesmerizing. Have you seen one in person (or do you maybe have one??)?
Part II - new watches
A quick summation of the new 2013 collection can be found in the following post: In this thread we will take a closer look at these watches.
A. Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph, ceramic case and bezel
Originally introduced in 2011, the 44mm Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph receives its first major revision this year with the option of a ceramic case middle. Of course, this version with the black dial originally launched with a forged carbon case middle, ...
B. Royal Oak Offshore Diver, ceramic case and bezel
2013 reveals another ceramic cased and bezeled watch, and this time it is a new version of the Royal Oak Offshore Diver. Water resistant to pressure sustained at a depth of 300m, the Offshore Diver is fully compliant with the NIHS 92-11 (ISO6425) norm. As...
The ROO Ceramic Diver
Thanks for the photos of the ROO ceramic diver. Are the strap plots also in ceramic or are they PVD'd? Would be cool to see some lume shots. Regards, ED-209
Hello Ed. The strap plots are titanium.
They are not blackened, and match the titanium pin buckle. In the press photo they do appear blackened, but they were not darkened on the samples we handled. I'll see about getting a lume shot to post.
Here is another wristshot.
Maybe my fav AP novelty this year... Thanks for your comments about this watch. Fx ...
Thanks Fx. Great shot
As I wrote, my feelings for this one came alive as soon as I tried it on.
Nice write-up MichaelC
The Diver is very appealing. Any hint from AP when these watches will start to hit the boutiques? Thanks, Dan
Thanks Dan. We should know more soon...
We'll have the US trunk shows at the boutiques coming up, and as those approach we should get some more definitive information. I'll certainly keep you posted my Friend ;-)
C. Royak Oak Offshore Chronograph Perpetual Calendar
The first new novelties I discovered when walking into the AP display were the following reinterpretations of the chronograph perpetual calendars powered by the Calibre 2326/2839. These limited edition watches are offered in three different case materials...
I like the titanium model too!
Thanks again Michael for your ongoing reports on this year's AP novelties. I like the details that you're bringing to light. Regarding the Offshore Perp Calendar models, I will admit to having had reservations about the suitability of a perpetual calendar...
Thanks Dan. Full agreement here.
The old case style seems to get more charming to me by the day. This was my first opportunity to try on a Perpetual Chrono Offshore, and as you can tell, I was very impressed. I love your idea of the titanium bracelet. Truth is, you would have some awesom...
I like the titanium ROO perpetual
Wish they would make one in stainless steel with blue dial just like titanium one. Very cool though. Regards, ED-209
I was very impressed with it.
The black dial /titanium case was very alluring in person.
D. Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 48mm, white gold diamond set case
Needless to say, the 2013 AP novelty that most caught me by surprise was the diamond encrusted 48mm Offshore Chronograph. Brand enthusiasts will immediately recognize this as the "T3" case platform - 48mm with the crown and hinged pusher guards. I must ad...
E. Selfwinding Royal Oak 37mm, white gold diamond set case
AP's first white gold Royal Oak Automatic in a 37mm case can really be considered a unixsex model, even if it more likely falls within the Women's Collection. The case middle, bezel, and folding clasp are set with a total of 152 brilliant-cut diamonds, to...
F. Extra-Thin Jules Audemars 41mm
For 2013, AP introduces a beautiful new dial to the Jules Audemars 15180 range. It is a really cool radiating guilloche. The 12:00 hour marker is also gem-set. This watch marks the first time the bezel has been gem-set on an extra thin Jules Audemars 41mm...
That's a lovely dress watch alternative
Even with gem set bezel. And the Cal. 2120 is a nice jewel to have inside as well. Thanks Michael Andrew
G. Jules Audemars 39mm selfwinding
Now we come to my favorite new watch of the women's collection, the 39mm Jules Audemars selfwinding with diamond bezel and hour markers. The dial on this one is really superb. Very new, very alluring, very feminine. As soon as I held this watch, I had a d...
H. Jules Audemars small seconds
Like the 39mm Jules Audemars selfwinding, the 33mm handwind version receives the gorgeous new dial treatment featuring the guilloche center. In total, there are 4 versions of this watch: 2 come on a brown leather crocodile strap and two come with case met...
I. Tradition Minute Repeater Tourbillon Chronograph
While it is completely acceptable that the new Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complications were the stars of the show, my favorite novelty from Audemars Piguet in 2013 is definitely the Tradition Minute Repeater Tourbillon Chronograph. I immediately added it ...
J. Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication
As our report on the Audemars Piguet 2013 novelties reaches a climax, we turn our attention to the true star of the show, the Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication. AP's pedigree and experience in making Grande Complication timepieces is unrivalled in th...
Great report
MC, I'm glad we were able to touch base in Geneva, I very much enjoyed your take on AP along with the great pictures you included in the report. Looking forward to more info on the latest creations.
Part III - Interviews
I was fortunate to interview Giulio Papi and Octavio Garcia, as well as share conversations with several other key folks at AP. I will share these exchanges in the following posts.
A. A conversation with Giulio Papi
A personal highlight for me in covering Audemars Piguet at SIHH was meeting and speaking with Giulio Papi. Without question, Giulio is one of the world's finest watchmakers, and from the beginning of his career, he has done things his way. Giulio started ...
B. A conversation with Octavio Garcia
Prior to traveling to SIHH, as I confirmed my appointments, I was asked if I would like a private interview with AP Artistic Director Octavio Garcia. It did not take even a moment to accept this incredible offer. As a custom residential designer myself, I...
Part IV - Conclusions and Observations
If you have made it this far with the reports, I hope you have attained a strong understanding of Audemars Piguet's position and offerings for 2013. Certainly, the new novelties presented this year uphold and execute the stated goals. The complicated mode...
