vitalsigns
6671
Neither Breguets, Pateks nor Langes are really handmade...
Neither Breguets, Pateks nor Langes are really handmade in the historical sense of the word--IMO, it would be more correct to say that they are hand assembled and, to varying degrees, hand finished. Most of the top larger houses use CNC machines and other instruments of modern technology to churn out their annual production. Each of Breguet, Patek and Lange use in-house movements (as to Breguet, at least since its acquisition of Nouvelle Lemania, which has been renamed Manufacture Breguet), which is to say that they are properly called Manufactures in the Swiss sense of the word.
Each of Breguet, Patek and Lange make fine watches, but despite my personal perceptions and prejudices about the movements utilized by them, there is no maker that comes close to Breguet's near-perfect case and dial design aesthetic. Time and again, I find most Breguets to be almost flawless in their homage to A.L. Breguet's eye for design. Look through the Habsburg auction catalogue/book and its easy to see most of the modern Breguets sitting side-by-side with pieces centuries old without a second thought as to whether they belong (save the obvious pocket watch vs. wristwatch difference).
As to my own perceptions of brands and workmanship, I would rank Patek the highest, with Lange second and Breguet third. Patek certainly is the most recognizable name. Breguet is more recognizable that Lange, but IMO Lange makes finer movements. Those are generalizations, and as such they occasionally break down when specific pieces are discussed. For instance, I think the Richard Lange in rose gold is a terrific piece, and one that I'd want over any Patek at a similar price point. And I personally have to admit that I've hesitated and not bought a Breguet simply because my perception was that the movement was not as fine as Patek's...but on the other hand, I feel that pieces like the 5237 are a great value and the ref. 3330/3337 is my favorite Breguet of all time.
In any event, ultimately you need to find a piece that speaks to you. Both the 3680 and the 5207 are nice, though I don't prefer regulator dials on wristwatches--frankly, I don't see the point. But the 3680 is certainly distinctive and of all the regulators, I think the Breguets are the most nicely designed. The 5207 is larger, which may be a consideration depending on wrist size and preferences as to elegance versus wrist "presence"... Not sure how far you want to parse the movements of Breguet, Patek and Lange, but unless you really care, don't let the selection process get too bogged down in the details. Find something that raises your passion, certainly check and ensure that it doesn't disappoint intellectually, and then go for it! Good luck.
John
Forum thoughts Breguet v. Patek
