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Officine Panerai

A first encounter with Panerai

 

Because of their large size and military heritage, Panerai watches aren't something that would naturally appeal to me.

But I've seen a lot of enthusiasm for them on this site, so I decided to go and see them in person.

After being given a very interesting presentation of the brand's history, I asked to try on the two models that attracted me the most, both with wire lugs.

RADIOMIR TRE GIORNI, ref. PAM01350

First observation: though big, the 45 x 14.15 mm cushion case is surprisingly wearable”, even on my 16 cm wrist.



The “dégradé beige” dial looks very nice (and it matched my sweater).



The cushion case with wire lugs and cone-shaped crown is really appealing, especially in this AISI 316L Patina steel, which gives it a gentle vintage vibe.



The only things I have mixed feelings about are the sandwich dial and the 2-section pencil hour hand

  • I think I would prefer a single-layer dial.
  • And, even if I like the double pencil shape of the hands, I think I would prefer the hour hand to feature only one section, like the minute hand.



The case profile is wonderful: I love the curvature of both top and bottom surfaces tightening towards the soft corners and giving the case its “inflated” or “pillow‑likevolume.



The other model which caught my eye was the...

RADIOMIR CALIFORNIA 8 GIORNI, ref. PAM01349

Size wise, the case is almost identical: because of the sapphire case back, it is 14.25 mm thick instead of 14.15 mm, but one can't feel the difference.



There's a lot to love about the dial:

  • The iconic “Error-proof” (nicknamed “California”) design, which mixes Roman and Arabic numerals is very much to my taste.
  • And so is the absence of any brand name (such a pleasure, really).
  • And I prefer this single-layer dial with painted luminescent railroad track and hour markers.
The dégradé green color is nice too, even if it emphasises the military heritage of the watch, which isn't really my personal thing.




The “burnished”, PVD coated (Brunito), steel case looks nice, but I think I prefer the more natural look of the Tre Giorni.

And I really dislike the branded strap (“G. PANERAI & FIGLIO”): they removed the brand name from the dial only to put it on the strap, what a shame!



The case profile is identical to the Tre Giorni and it really is one of the things I like the most about these watches.



Just for comparison, I also tried a 40 mm model, a Radiomir ref. PAM01572, but it didn't appeal to me at all.

Even if the size was friendlier to my wrist, it looked strangely dressy and, with the small seconds and date, lacked the simplicity of the two other models.





If I had to choose between these two models, I would have a hard time making up my mind.



As I said to the sales person, ideally I would like to have the Tre Giorni case and strap with the “Error-proofdial of the California.



But since such a model doesn't exist, I think I would probably ultimately opt for the Tre Giorni because I find the color scheme (and the price) more friendly and because...



...it features a solid case back and a 3-day movement (P6000).

I love that both watches feature a hand-wound movement with a wonderful screw-down crown to wind them, but I don't really see the purpose of an 8-day movement here (P5000), nor of a display caseback.



That said, both watches are really appealing and I could continue to hesitate for quite some time.



Thanks for reading.

Best, Emmanuel

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