Officine Panerai

Because of their large size and military heritage, Panerai watches aren't something that would naturally appeal to me.

But I've seen a lot of enthusiasm for them on this site, so I decided to go and see them in person.

After being given a very interesting presentation of the brand's history, I asked to try on the two models that attracted me the most, both with wire lugs.

• I think I would prefer a single-layer dial.

• And, even if I like the double pencil shape of the hands, I think I would prefer the hour hand to feature only one section, like the minute hand.

The case profile is wonderful: I love the curvature of both top and bottom surfaces tightening towards the soft corners and giving the case its “inflated” or “pillow‑like” volume.

The other model which caught my eye was the...




There's a lot to love about the dial:

• The iconic “Error-proof” (nicknamed “California”) design, which mixes Roman and Arabic numerals is very much to my taste.

• And so is the absence of any brand name (such a pleasure, really).

• And I prefer this single-layer dial with painted luminescent railroad track and hour markers.

The dégradé green color is nice too, even if it emphasises the military heritage of the watch, which isn't really my personal thing.

The “burnished”, PVD coated (Brunito), steel case looks nice, but I think I prefer the more natural look of the Tre Giorni.

And I really dislike the branded strap (“G. PANERAI & FIGLIO”): they removed the brand name from the dial only to put it on the strap, what a shame!



The case profile is identical to the Tre Giorni and it really is one of the things I like the most about these watches.



Just for comparison, I also tried a 40 mm model, a Radiomir ref. PAM01572, but it didn't appeal to me at all.

Even if the size was friendlier to my wrist, it looked strangely dressy and, with the small seconds and date, lacked the simplicity of the two other models.





If I had to choose between these two models, I would have a hard time making up my mind.



As I said to the sales person, ideally I would like to have the Tre Giorni case and strap with the “Error-proof” dial of the California.



But since such a model doesn't exist, I think I would probably ultimately opt for the Tre Giorni because I find the color scheme (and the price) more friendly and because...



...it features a solid case back and a 3-day movement (P6000).

I love that both watches feature a hand-wound movement with a wonderful screw-down crown to wind them, but I don't really see the purpose of an 8-day movement here (P5000), nor of a display caseback.

That said, both watches are really appealing and I could continue to hesitate for quite some time.

I have found this photo online and it appeals to me very much (except maybe for the 2-section hour hand)...

Marc 

and a Submersible in 42mm, the 973:

Both of those work much better, in my opinion, than any 40mm Panerai. The proportions just aren't right on the 40s.

I enjoyed the Submersible thoroughly for several years, but have now become convinced that the full 44mm size Panerai is, in fact, perfectly excellent even on slim wrists like ours.

Here's my most recent Panerai addition, a 44mm steel Submersible 024. I love it!

Haven‘t been wearing mine since a long time. 

A Panerai must be close to its roots and purpose. But that are just my 2 cents to it and I know I am not the only one thinking this BS way.

Best,

Martin 

I'm just discovering the brand, really, so it's very interesting for me to get the feedback of those, like you, who know better.

And I must say that I tend to agree with you on all counts.

Best, Emmanuel

It is interesting that the 2-section hour hand caught your attention, it seems to be used fairly consistently definitely with Cali dials and with most modern wire-lug radiomirs, only exceptions I can think of are the old pam183/210/232 and the 685/687. I can't say for sure and can only assume this was done to avoid confusing both hands under water, because the minute hand is generally much longer but not much thinner so structurally one may expect the minute hand if anything, to be in multiple sections. I have been hoping to add a radiomir for some time, ideally 47, wire lugs, plexi and 100WR which limits options to a handful of models. I keep coming back to the 685 for its thin case and plexi despite the 30m WR and OP writing on the bezel.

Looking forward to seeing more Panerai content from you, if anything it will make you appreciate your other watches even more because of the size and wearing experience.

Discovering this brand is very interesting, but I don't think I will acquire a Panerai because, given my tastes and my lifestyle I would wear it far too rarely. 

I will probably try on the 1382, though, as suggested by Simone, because it seems very close to what I like most about these watches. 

Thanks for your detailed comment. 

Best, Emmanuel

I just have a preference for wire lugs, which remind me my first horological love as a child: the watch which belonged to my mother and which she ended up giving me... 

Best, Emmanuel